horsepowercrzy18

Does anyone have the H&R front sway bar on there 04-08 TL? I was just wondering if anyone noticed a difference over stock and what the differences are in size?

Shoofin

I think you'll get some more responses if you posted this in the 3G TL section...So off you go!

I hate cars

I don't know why the normal reply boxes aren't here, never used the quick reply so I hope this works.I'm running the 28mm H&R front bar. It made one of the single biggest differences to the handling. However, do this to a stock TL and it's going to corner worse due to massive understeer.ONLY run the H&R bar if you already have the Progress 24mm or H&R rear bar. Otherwise the car will handle worse (albeit with less bodyroll) than stock.The front bar really increased high speed stability. Even with a-spec, Koni Yellows, and the Progress rsb, it still didn't handle like I wanted it to at 80+mph. The FSB made all the difference.Another option is to run the 27mm Type S swaybar for 1/5 the cost. I highly recommend it from a cost vs performance point.

I hate cars

Wow, it compressed my whole post. No spaces between sentences and no paragraphs. Weird.

mglax13

iTrader: (3)

There must be some website issues because I don't have a reply button either...IHC, how bad was the front FSB install? I heard people mention that it's a collosal PITA...let me know, that Type-S bar sounds appearing for $66...

horsepowercrzy18

I have an 04 6 speed so apparently i have the 27mm bar already. Ive been reading and i think the difference is that the 6 speed 27mm sway bar is hollow and the h&r 28mm sway bar is solid.

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

^ I'd like to know too...

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

wth? where are the reply buttons?N-E way...OP, the speed does have the a hollow front sway bar BUT if you get the tl-s bar, its the same size and its SOLID. i have upgraded to it and it made a significant difference in handling. plus its not expensive at all. works well with the progress rear bar...my $.02

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

^^ sorry, cant edit but i meant 6-speed does have a hollow bar

sac2006TL

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have thoughts on the install?I have an 06 6-speed with the Progress rear. Would consider upgrading to the Type S if it is really that cheap. But if the install is a huge PIA, then I might just leave it alone.Also, to DJBONSU... On a scale of 1 to 10 (with 10 being the greatest), how much of a difference does the TL-S bar make over the 6-Speed bar?Thanks!

Etohprn247

iTrader: (6)

I just looked under the carriage, PITA is an understatement, uuugh.
I'm not auto X'ing no need.

I hate cars

You would not want it for auto-x. You would want it if you desired much better high speed stability and handling.

I did it on the side of the street on my back. I didnt' know you had to drop the subframe when I started. It took me 6 hours, I ended at midnight obviously in the dark. I had work the next morning at 6AM so I had no choice but to finish.

Knowing what I know now I could do it in an hour or so on a lift. I highly suggest not doing it on your back.

An alignment is required too since you loosen the subframe.

The only thing wrong I noticed is the instructions were wrong. I sat there thinking which way it was supposed to go before I fished the new bar in. It made no sense, the instructions were saying sticker facing down but I went with what I thought and thankfully I was right or it would've adden another hour or two.

This bar is super high quality. The bushings are the best I've ever used. It's stiffer than it's 28mm would indicate. I estimate it's 50% stiffer than the Type-S bar.

turbo1

I want to upgrade my front and rear swaybars. Previously I owned a bmw 135i and i miss the stiffness and control at high speeds and cornering and want something similar on my TL . My TL is a 6MT, what would you suggest I get (brand? Stiffness setting? Size?)

Also, I plan sometime in the near future to upgrade my suspension (springs and shocks), I'll be going with a 1.5" inch drop at the most.

Given the fact that you've done so much testing, I definitely trust your opinion in terms of what swaybars and suspension I should go with. I want all components to work well together and give the car a good balance.

Shoofin

FWIW, I had a 2G TL, installed comptech springs and front and rear sway bars for my ride. The front sway is definitely a PITA in the install, as it would be in just about any application for the front. It definitely makes it much easier to do if you are doing a suspension swap at the same time. The rear is a breeze in comparison.

Funny thing is, I have a Mini Cooper Clubman S now, and all I'm changing (other than springs which i've already done) is the RSB (leaving the front alone, it's plenty stiff as it is and will screw up the neutral handling in this case), and the entire rear subframe has to unbolt to get to the RSB, which to me is a BIG pain, and the reason why the RSB has been sitting in a box for the last 8 months waiting to be installed..

But back to the TL...The sway bar swap DEFINITELY makes the world of a difference on a TL, I would HIGHLY recommend it, PITA to install or not. You won't regret it!

horsepowercrzy18

Just picked up a tls sway bar at acura saturday for like 80 bucks! installed today. it was a pain in the ass to install, but i must say it is a hugeee difference! Changing hollow to solid is actually noticable!

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

^^DOPE! told ya you would love it

mglax13

iTrader: (3)

Care to make a DIY? Or anyone have the Acura service manual pages on this?

KzooTL

horsepowercrzy18

Lets just say you need power tools, jack stands, and jack to hold the motor up while you drop the subframe which is a pita!

I hate cars

It's really not that bad, guys. Just plan on putting aside half a day one weekend and get it done. 4 hours of your time to enjoy the swaybar for years is worth it.

4drviper

i found instruction on neuspeed website for similar gen accords. it mentioned
1. undoing the 33lb-ft bolt
2. undoing 76lb-ft + 69lb-ft bolts on the right of the diagram above
3. support the subframe with garage jack,

as far as i understand those 3 is the hardest steps, and the rest is similar if not same to the rear sway bar???

( i know thread revival)

I hate cars

Pretty much. I think I removed 4 bolts from the subframe and loosened the front two. Since I was on my back at night and couldn't see well I didn't want the subframe getting away from me. I had a jack under it but I never had a problem with it trying to come down too far. At one point removed the jack from the subframe. How much you can drop the subframe will determine how long it takes. If you can get a foot of space, the old one will come out and the new one will go in easily.

On mine, the instructions were wrong. They referenced a sticker that should face down (I think). After staring at it for 45 minutes I couldn't see how it was possible to work that way. I think I tried it the recommended way anyway and it wouldn't work. Flipped it around and it was good. Maybe someone put the sticker on the wrong side on mine.

I drove around these past 3 months with this FSB and no RSB. Just recently hooked up the Progress RSB again and it's a night and day difference. The interesting thing though is the car with just the large FSB and no RSB still had considerably better grip than stock. That's probably due to my tires and other items but it wasn't as bad as I would have thought. Fun to drive, no, but it would still get around corners decently.

Are you thinking about doing this? If the ratings between manufacturers are the same, this thing is effectively a 29mm bar on the stiff setting. A rule of thumb but not completely accurate is a solid bar behaves like a 2mm thicker hollow bar of the same diameter. Obviously wall thickness, overall diameter and other things come into play but it gives you a rough estimate. The other good thing about running a solid bar is the spring rate doesn't change as much over time, it remains more consistent.

I might start experimenting with adjustable length end links in the future to try and get the bar right in the middle of it's range of motion. If it's not centered, hitting bumps transfers more energy into the frame. If you have it centered good, most of that energy goes into the opposite spring, trying to compress the inside around a corner. It's a free lunch, better ride quality and better handling. I might even try to set it facing down by a couple mm but we'll see what actually works. My setup is pretty close to centered so I don't know if I'm going to get any gains.

4drviper

^
first but least important, am i gonna do it this weekend? no
BUT once i see this "how to replace" thread, i can't sleep until i can successfully change it in my mind about a hundred times (pre-OCD) and once i'm at it, it has to be perfect or i keep taking it apart, until it's perfect fit down to 32nd inch lol (OCD) so yeah.
my excuse : information to Aziners.



okay now back on topic.


:o a FOOT?!
that instruction (i'm keep referring to it cuz that's the only thing i know) relied on front bushing stretching and didn't even bother with 2 front bolts.
http://import.neuspeed.com/media/att...15.20.27.2.pdf
(found the link)


seeing your comment how the car drove "fine" with no RSB, and stiff FSB, i'm being skeptical if the sway bars are really any cost-effective upgrade to actual performance (not fun), with conti DWS tires... i would use DW but i might be staying in canada for a couple years for school. poor car's gonna be salty and rusted or i'll just not drive at all in winter.
(i'm guessing your driving didn't involve any forward weight shift, just steering)

adjustable endlinks sounds awesome. but if i found a wallet with $500 cash in it, i'm gonna thank god kiss the soil and buy 6MT type S suspension brand new than front & rear sway bar.... well, for now.
the rake is gonna be cute (and even further fuck up f/r weight balance lol) but leveled out when car is loaded (possibly 200lbs trailer tongue too)

I hate cars

The front and rear swaybars will give a larger performance increase than the Type S suspension.

Mine did ok without the rsb probably because of the sticky tires. It still had the H&R FSB. At the limit it understeered worse than stock but the limit is pretty high because of the tires. Every suspension mod on a TL will not get the same gains as a good set of tires will get you. The TL has great suspension geometry and an awesome suspension setup regardless of springs, shocks, and swaybars. It will tolerate some body roll without the negative effects such as positive camber that many cars experience. That's why my car is well balanced and the turn-in is extremely sharp but I'm not going overboard to make the car too stiff becuause in this particular car body roll doesn't hurt you much. On the track, the trade-off might be worth it but on the street the gains just aren't there to justify going real stiff.

The car drove fine just as it will even with no swaybars. The steering was heavy and not precise and it felt sluggish but the tires saved it from being too terrible.

4drviper

those aftermarket sway bar, being aftermarket, still worries me "what if one wheel hops and the other too and i lose grip sideways?!"
IIRC, 07-08 base have softer shock+spring but (relatively) stiffer sway bars than 04-06 base?

and since i need the car to not sag too much when loaded soooo i'll start with spring+strut but will keep in mind FSB RSB gains are greater thanks!

4drviper

When lowering the subframe, should I be worried about engine tilting backward too much or putting too much stress to cause tears in engine/tranny mounts ?

maritmeracer

Anyone know where a fella can find an adjustable front and rear sway bar for the 3G TL?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

bruh, you found this thread.
this thread mentions the H&R front sway bar. you can google on where to purchase.
the Progress RSB is adjustable. you can google to find where to purchase.

4drviper

H&R are adjustable too, both front and back.