_Camus_

Hi, again,

Well it seems that finally got to the level of throwing smoke, I'm guessing it's oil, but not really sure, have two videos, the first in the dyno, at the very end when the revs starts bumping because of the ECU limiter a little puff of smoke came out:


In the next video, when I start revving to do the burnout, again white smoke came out:


I didn't notice it before, just now after seeing the videos again, it doesn't throw at idle, the car feel strong, only 83 000 miles, I have no cats , no resonator, only two magnas at the end. Should I start saving for oil rings?

Thanks!

TacoBello

no cats, no resonators, two free flowing mufflers... of course you're going to see white smoke, especially when the temps start to get cooler.

You might be consuming oil from bagging on the car. However, just because you are potentially consuming oil, does not mean the engine needs replacing. Yes, you will lose a bit of power, but the engine can still last for a VERY long time.

If you see value in fixing up a 250hp car that weighs 3600 pounds, so be it. I'd say you're wasting your money in trying to make something fast that really isn't.

alexb92

White smoke is typically just water vapor/condensation, which is normal considering you are catless. Blueish gray smoke is oil.

_Camus_

Forgot to add, I was using 5w-30 and I did changed it to 0w-20, both synthetic, maybe is oil too thin?

Thanks for the answers, I am a little more relaxed now, I'll check the oil level to see if I am burning oil.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Need to wait for the green light.
Can see with the beating the car is receiving, we'll see a lot more posts.

csmeance

Check and replace your PCV (positive crankcase vent valve) and it might help with the oil consumption. Switch back to the 5W-30 and your car will be running better. 0W-20 is too thin for our cars, esp with higher miles.

_Camus_

Well I checked the oil level and was low but turns out that I have a leak in the front gasket of the crankshaft. Checked the plugs, all dry, no oil.

Did a compression test on the three front cylinders, all three got 150 psi... Seems low, I have seen people here with 240, the engine doesn't feel weak, the engine put 240hp to the wheels, so I don't know, the good thing is that all three gave very close results and the plugs are ok. So maybe was black smoke after all.

TacoBello

you should be more concerned about having even compression results across all cylinders, as opposed to having high numbers. Everyone uses different equipment to measure... you're not exactly comparing apples to apples. However, if one or two of your numbers are different from the rest, that's how you identify if you have issues. All 6 cylinders wouldn't drop uniformly in pressure.

0w-20 is not too thin for our cars. The stock oil is 5w-20 and it seems to be fine for tens of thousands of TLs out there. a 0w-20 ends up having the same viscosity and attributes as a 5w-20, at operating temperatures. The difference is the 0w-20 is thinner upon start up, and that's not a bad thing. 0w oils are always more expensive as compared to 5w oils and I think that's part of the reason Honda/Acura went with the 5w... lower maintenance costs. They're also more readily available.

I'll also add the disclaimer that it matters what region of the country you live in- a 0w in a hot climate is not the best. It might be too thin then. Up here in Canadark, it is no big issue though.

_Camus_

I just checked the frontal cylinders (the shop was about to close), and the numbers were in the 150/151/149 so I guess they are right, next time will check the cylinders of the other side.

As for the Oil, here the lowest temperature on winter si like 5°C, the average temperature is 20°C. I changed the oil to 5w - 30 Castrol Synthetic, since the car has 83 k miles and a lot of beating seemed a good choice, the mechanic was advising me to use 15w-45 but I refused.