josiel

So all three lights came on the triangle the comes out when you hit the vsa button the engine light and a vsa light and my car won't pass 3k rpm it started after I removed the plate that has the 3.2 vtec on it also it idles real rough

josiel

I also did the throttle body coolant bypass might this have been the problem?

test

I'm also having the VSA light and engine light come on and the dealer can't find anything wrong. I've taken it in twice now. They just reset the electrical codes and tell me to bring it back if it happens again. Sigh.

When it happens the car loses power, not completely, but I can't go more than a few miles/hour and have to pull over and turn off the engine. When I turn it back on again the VSA light turns off, but the engine light is still on and it seems to drive ok again.

My mileage today when it happened said I was getting 11mpg, which I don't think is correct.

It seems like this happens when I drive in heavy slow moving traffic for an extended period of time, like on days like today when my commute to work took over an hour in very slow traffic.

Any ideas?

nfnsquared

Sure you reconnected everything? MAP sensor??

josiel

yes everything is connected properly, i turned the car off for a while and when i turned it back on only the check engine light was on so i reseted the ecu and everything is working fine

nfnsquared

What were the codes they reset?

Could be your APP sensor is going...

josiel

thats the weirdest thing ever the car is normal now and it was cutting off at 3 rpm and at idle the rpm were going between 500 and about 1300

josiel

Now its making a weird sound in the front right wheel like if something was loose

gotkilled

iTrader: (1)

This happened to me a month or so ago. Ended up that my brake caliper hose was leaking fluid so there was probably improper brake pressure. I bled the brakes and tightened the bolt and 30 seconds later after turning on the engine, the vsa and brake light went off.

I see that you don't have the brake light on though so it might be an entirely different issue.

luder917

iTrader: (1)

did this started happening right after the throttle body coolant bypass? did you unplug anything while youre doing the bypass?

i had this problem on my TSX and it had a code which i dont remember at the moment. you said your check engine light is on, what code did it give you?

Majofo

sounds like there might be two separate issues with the OP and 2nd poster (test).. the latter, definitely App Sensor, pull the code.. it'll come up TPS issue. 5-10 minute DIY.

btw test, wtf.. 5 posts yet registered in '02.

josiel

Majofo what do you think about my issue all the lights will come one and theyll just turn off sometimes when I turn the car off and then on. But now it doesn't idle rough or anything the lights just pop on and today I got a new one (ABS)

Majofo

Well with the rough idle and removal of the upper intake manifold cover, I thought vac leak. Put soapy water around the upper manifold cover to check for leaks while the car is running, if you detect a leak, replace the upper manifold gasket. Now with the ABS code, I'm thinking vac line to the brake booster or just related to your upper intake manifold cover leak. Check both, you should get any DTC's pulled from your local autozone and report back to us as well.

Majofo

Can you post up some nice shots of the manifold and vac lines?

josiel

ok so i went to autozone and got code p1129

nfnsquared

Vac leak or bad MAP sensor.

With the VSA light happening also, I think Majofo nailed it: You have a leak in the brake booster hose or a loose connection on the end of the hose. Carefully check where the hose attaches to the intake manifold and make sure the clamp is securely clamping the hose.

josiel

is it the line going from the brake booster to the IM

josiel

this is happens for one day then it will go off for a while and come back on so it should be a leak cause if it were the sensor it will be constant right?

nfnsquared

Yes

Majofo

Definitely vacuum leak, make sure it's not the manifold gasket, then check your vac lines.. even a cracked line could cause issues.

josiel

Last night I checked the hose going to the brake booster and it looked fine ill check the other ones later today

gogators22

I had the same issue happen today (the same day I got my title, 20 days after purchasing the car, before I even have a tag on it ...... anyway..... was driving just fine when all of a sudden the car wouldn't accelerate properly, lost a ton of power, and the check engine light and triangle and VSA light came on. Immediate reaction was to pull over, turn flashers on, turn car off, restart, VSA light and triangle went off, but check engine light is still on, drove home normally just a mile or so. I will be driving my trusty 95 Accord to work tomorrow with no freaking A/C. grrrrrrrrr.

If I am a noob at mechanical stuff, what is the best way to fix this problem without having to spend the entire paycheck I just got? I am due an oil change, service B light has been on for a week, although I doubt that has anything to do with the check engine light today.

Please help, I am really upset because I JUST bought this car last month

Majofo

App sensor.. quick & easy.. fairly cheap as well.

gogators22

please God post the link for more info on app sensor or a possible DIY thread. what does app stand for? What do I ask for when I buy from auto parts store?

Majofo

Google + App sensor diy acurazine


first get the DTC checked.. if P2138 comes up, replace the app sensor.

Will Y.

A search for "app" or "accelerator pedal positioner" will dig up threads like this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/app-sensor-guaranteed-cr%40p-out-803593/



Hey, Majofo-- gogators asked God, not a [pink] dog, to post a link!

gogators22

so................ is the tps and aps the same thing?! because the previous owner changed the tps not too long ago.

Majofo

God has only but the hands and feet of us to do his good work.. be Christ to the world..

Majofo

same thing.. it's on the top left side of the engine compartment above the firewall connected directly to the throttle cable. With the correct basic tools you can replace it in < 10 mins.

gogators22

unfortunately, the previous owner said he had just replaced it not too long ago, and the car "ran like a top" afterward. Is it possible for it to go out again in less than a year, or is it more likely he bought a shitty knock off version on ebay for $30? and is this the right part I need?

Eric Canoy

https://www.troublecodes.net/p2codes/p2646/?from=torque

Skip to contentBY BAT AUTO
"Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth." - Sherlock Holmes
MenuPOSTED ONJUNE 7, 2016 BY BENJAMIN JEREW

P2646 – “A” Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance or Stuck Off (Bank 1)

By Benjamin Jerew (Contact Me)
Last Updated 2017-03-28
ASE Master Tech
Trouble CodeFault LocationProbable Cause

P2646Rocker arm actuator A, bank 1 - performance problem or actuator stuck offWiring, rocker arm actuator

We recommend Torque Pro

What Does Code P2646 Mean?

To let air in and out of the cylinder, a set of valves opens and closes, their timing in relation to piston position. Using the timing belt or timing chain, the crankshaft drives the camshafts. The camshafts, in turn, depress rocker arms, and the rocker arms press the valves, opening them to allow intake or exhaust in the cylinder.

Depending on engine speed and load, optimal valve timing (in relation to cylinder position) and lift varies. At high engine speed, more lift (bigger opening) and more duration (longer opening) allow for better “breathing” of the cylinder, improving performance. Whereas the technology to change valve timing or lift didn’t exist yet, most engines were manufactured with average cycle characteristics or favoring high or low end operation.

Cylinder Head with VTEC and VTC

With the introduction of engines thatcould adjust valve timing or lift, or both, the engine control unit could adjust cycle characteristics depending on engine operating conditions and driver demand. Each automaker has it’s own definitions of the system – Toyota uses VVT (Variable Valve Timing), while Honda uses VTEC, which controls lift, and VTC (Valve Timing Control). The result was more power when needed, such as during acceleration, and better fuel economy, while cruising.

VTC Cam Adjuster

In most engines, the ECM uses oil pressure to control the valve system, though some newer versions use electric motors to achieve the same. If the ECM detects that the system isn’t working properly, it will set a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) and illuminate the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp). DTC P2646 is defined as “Rocker Arm Actuator A, Bank 1, Performance or Stuck Off.” Honda, Acura, and a couple other automakers use this definition.

What are the common causes of code P2646?

Depending on year, make, and model, DTC P2646 may have number of causes. Here are some of the most common.

• Oil Problems – Low oil level, incorrect oil viscosity, or thinned oil can all cause problems with the VTEC system.
• Oil Sludge – This can cause low oil pressure conditions in certain areas of the engine, preventing VTEC from functioning properly.

What are the symptoms of code P2646?

If the VVT system isn’t working properly, you’ll probably notice reduced engine performance and increased fuel consumption.

How do you troubleshoot code P2646?

• Oil Check – Oil pressure is critical to the function of the VTEC
  • Check oil level. If there is insufficient oil in the system, there won’t be enough oil pressure to drive the VTEC system. Correct as necessary.

Ensure you’re using the right oil for your engine.

•  
  • Check oil viscosity. Oil that is too thin won’t build enough pressure to operate the VTEC system. If the last oil change was performed incorrectly or there is oil thinning due to fuel in the crankcase (misfiring or leaking injectors, possibly cold idling), this may lead to this problem. Correct as necessary.
  • Check oil sludge. Infrequent oil changes lead to engine oil sludge. If oil passages are blocked, VTEC won’t function. An engine oil flush mayimprove oil flow, and switching to a synthetic blend or full-synthetic oil may help to clean out deposits and restore function.

Oil sludge can prevent oil flow into critical areas.

• Electrical Check –
  • Check electrical connectors for corrosion, broken or bent pins, and ensure they are fully seated. Check wire harnesses for obvious damage. Repair as needed.
• Further checks may be impossible without special tools. One check would be to use the scan tool to activate VTEC and check oil pressure at the oil pressure switch.

Codes Related to P2646

• P2645 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)
• P2647 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On (Bank 1)
• P2648 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
• P2649 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High (Bank 1)
• P2650 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)
• P2651 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance or Stuck Off (Bank 1)
• P2652 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On (Bank 1)
• P2653 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
• P2654 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High (Bank 1)
• P2655 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit/Open (Bank 2)
• P2656 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance or Stuck Off (Bank 2)
• P2657 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On (Bank 2)
• P2658 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)
• P2659 “A” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High (Bank 2)
• P2660 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit/Open (Bank 2)
• P2661 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance or Stuck Off (Bank 2)
• P2662 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On (Bank 2)
• P2663 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)
• P2664 “B” Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High (Bank 2)

IronHeadEddie

2006 Acura TL A/T. Couple days back I got CEL VSA and /!\, car went into limp mode, pulled over shut it down, restarted and CEL remained. Drove home with bow issues but the CEL was still on. Code was 2138, so I replaced the APP. I unplugged battery and jumped the cables together to reset the computer overnight. Hooked everything back up, headed into town and had Oreillys clear the code. On the way home same trash happens, limped back into town 2122 code popped. Ordered a throttle body, installed, rinse and repeat computer reset blah blah. Fired it up this morning and all three lights persisted. Did manual TPS relearn and idle relearn. Only the CEL remained, drove into town, and about 6 miles into the drive all three lights came back on, they scanned the code and it was 2122 again, had them clear it. Driving home everything was normal and again popped all 3 lights and went into limp mode again. I fear it may be my PCM, but I’m hoping I just need to have a mechanic with their fancy code reader/tuner flash and relearn the computer crap. Hopefully somebody can help because I’m $500 deep in parts and I’m tired of commuting in my full size duramax dually.

El_Cheapo

You should have had a mechanic diagnose the problem before dropping $500.

It would be helpful to have a fancy scanner and a scope or graphing meter.

Here is the pages from the service manual. Hope it helps.

IronHeadEddie

After reading through this thread and dozens more about mechanics misdiagnosis of this problem, I decided to do my own diagnosis and skip a mechanic offering to replace my transmission for $3,000 when it ended up being a $135 part. Although I do appreciate the pages for the manual, very helpful, next time try it without the snide bullshit opener. Not a very welcoming reply to my first post on these forums if you ask me. /facepalm /middlefinger

IronHeadEddie

Update: had a mechanic run a scan, looks like either the APPS I bought was faulty, or it’s my PCM. The APPS I bought was an aftermarket part, I am ordering the OEM replacement today and will update soon.

IronHeadEddie

After extensive troubleshooting I concluded that the aftermarket APPS I bought was defective. I replaced the sensor assembly with a genuine Acura OEM sensor and replaced my battery (which also tested bad). I cleared my codes, did idle relearn and throttle position relearn, viola, problem solved. Hopefully this is helpful. The biggest lesson I learned here is don’t buy knock off crap from amazon. Luckily they refunded my money for the defective part, had I just not been a cheap ass and bought the OEM sensor initially in pretty sure I would have spent an entire week trying to troubleshoot the problem.

TRebelo

I’m currently having this issue also but I get code P0306 (Cyl 6 Misfire) along with the VSA and Triangle but with no ill effects my car runs as if it had no lights on or cel. I’m going to try battery first and then possibly just do plug and coil pack on Cyl 6. Just odd the VSA and Triangle come on with it but the car runs perfectly normal

TRebelo

Oops I actually have a 4G 3.5L but if anyone has any insight I’ll listen lol

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^dont just replace things for the fuck of it...
actually troubleshoot.... check the voltage on the battery, swap coil packs back and forth, pull plugs to check condition...

once you have that info, then you can go further.

El_Cheapo

You should pull the codes from the ABS. They will give an idea of where to troubleshoot. The codes might just be coincidental.

As for your misfire, swap the coil pack with another one and see if the code follows the coil. Do that before you buy a new coil pack. That would be simplest.

Sadly, I think a lot of people just through parts at their cars because they read a thread with a similar symptom. I honestly think people should seek out a good mechanic that can do a guaranteed diagnostic and then try to replace the part themselves.