kct01

2005 Acura TL

So this past weekend I finished replacing my timing belt, water pump, cam gear seal, crankshaft seal, and serp belt. After the installation, my car was knocking really loud. I shut it off. I guess I tightened the adjuster wheel too tight and the Hydraulic tension could not put tension on belt. I torn everything apart and saw that my crankshaft was off by 15 degrees to the left. I realigned all the markings and slapped the belt back on. no more knocking.

I left for the day and forgot to bleed my coolant system so I ran the car kinda hot. I got to bleed the car and was able to get the temp consistently controlled at under half. That was fixed.

The next day, I go to start the car and it started fine, however, as I was driving away, I get a VSA light, Triangle, and CEL light. The car bogged and bogged. I shut it off, restarted the car and only the CEL stayed on. Now the car runs fine with just the CEL on. So weird!!

It takes at least 5-6 cranks before it starts.. before it would just take 2-4 cranks.

I just ran the codes and I got a P0334 and P2277.

anyone know what kind of issues I'm dealing with?

kct01

P0334=Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent?
P2277= EGR valve?

worst case I'm off on my timing...

kct01

wth?!?! The wife had an apppointment so she took the car, which by the way is still able drive. She came back home and I scanned the car again, the P2277 really is a p2279 is not coming up anymore, but now the p0334 turned into a p0344. I erased the code and took a test drive and also a few quick to long WOT, everything checks out... I'm so lost. The last time all I did was unplug the positive to the batt. because I couldn't find my scanner. Will update tomorrow when I get back from the daily commute to work.

kct01

Well I guess the problem is back. I've yet to scan the codes, but funny it only happens on a cold start.

nfnsquared

Did you mean "idler pulley"? Did you not follow SM torque specs?

At any rate, I wouldn't be surprised if you have some bent valves now.

kct01

I torqued the tensioner pulley to the respect of 19ft, however the hydraulic tensioner could not put tension on the belt. When I took the water pump off the car, coolant rushed down the side of the block. Could this have caused the crankshaft sensor to go bad? Has anyone had their crank sensor damaged by removing the water pump? The radiator coolant was drain.

nfnsquared

"Tensioner pulley"?? There is no "tensioner pulley" for the timing belt.

Do you mean "adjusting pulley"? If so, why was that even removed?

The CPS could have been damaged by the coolant, but I doubt it. I think more likely you have damaged/bent valves from running the engine with the timing off.

Dc2Migz

@kct01 did you every figure out what was wrong? I am having the same exact issue exactly how you explained it with 05 Acura TL , I did the same thing as well so it's funny because I drained the coolant out the water pump too and let it run down the crank sensor.... That was my first assumption that it must of ruined it ... Very hard to start some cold mornings and check engine will come on and goes into limp mode.

Dc2Migz

Sorry to wake this thread from the dead but this problem is annoying ... Because I know timing is on point and there is no slack in belt , sounds amazingly perfect and pulls strong when after the code is cleared ... But it keeps coming back every cold morning and is hard to start!

El_Cheapo

What codes are you getting?

kct01

The timing was off on the exhaust cam side by a tooth. These were the symptoms, almost drives as normal, slight loss of power and knocking codes, misfire codes. These were all related back to the timing being off and I had to double, tripled do the job just to figure out it was that. Make sure your timing is on. If you are unsure, make sure you know someone, who's experienced come help or you will be 8 hours in on your repair and your wrench buddy will convince you the job is good to go when it's not. GL!