Vibration while accelerating
11-20-2012, 08:51 AM
#1
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Vibration while accelerating
Hey guys my 04 acura tl 6mt with 126000k miles is vibrating under acceleration. Had one of my engine mounts changed (side mount). The only thing I can possibly think of is a bad axle. I had a hit something on the highway and it cracked one of my aftermarket rims (Passenger Side). My winter setup is now back on. I got an alignment, new tires and rims. I went to a mechanic and Sears (friend works there) and they both told me everything looks fine (All my suspension components). I would like to get this fixed ASAP. I have been searching on here for 2 days looking for an answer and couldnt find anything. Anyone can shed some light on this issue?
11-22-2012, 07:58 AM
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where do you feel the vibration? in the steering wheel?? the floor and your butt?? at what speeds/rpms?? going straight?? coming out of turns and then going straight??
at your mileage it wouldn't be surprising if it was a bad axle (inner CV). mine went bad around 45k mi.
at your mileage it wouldn't be surprising if it was a bad axle (inner CV). mine went bad around 45k mi.
11-22-2012, 09:21 PM
#5
04-TL/MDX/77-CELICA GT
Mounts or CV axles?
TLtrigirl asks good diagnostic questions..... Let us know the symptoms...
On my 04 TL 6MT I had a near violent shudder (worse than a vibration) under acceleration roughly between 45-70 mph (whether going straight or around a curve). The quicker the acceleration the worse the shudder. Also overtime it became more pronounced. Once at speed or upon deceleration (clutch in or out) it went away. Most posts mention the likely culprits as inner cv axles or bad motor mounts.
I knew from a previous wrenching job (1 yr ago) the side motor mount was failing (a 1/2" crack). Over time I had worsening vibration at idle especially before warmed up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on. Because of all of this I opted to replace the mounts (b/f cv axles) and go with the XLR8 62a mounts. I put it off for a long while because I thought of replacing engine mounts as being akin to getting socks for Christmas. Upon tear-down the side and front were both completely broken. I could not have easily seen the front failure until it was out. I test drove after replacing the side and front and the shudder was gone! You mentioned a side replacement. A broken front will have more of a negative impact as it does the most work in preventing fore/aft engine movement. Is the front confirmed good? If bad, a big engine shift misaligns the drive-line and causes an acceleration vibration.
If mount replacement is in your future - I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts (also replaced the rear after a few days) have improved the car! I previously hated the clutch (had done the check valve delete). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching against a wet noodle. Clutch isn't perfect but way easier to "feel". There is another recent thread on the XLR8 62a install and I agree with the pros. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. On the cons side - there is a bit of vibration with them at idle (smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons.
Best Wishes......
On my 04 TL 6MT I had a near violent shudder (worse than a vibration) under acceleration roughly between 45-70 mph (whether going straight or around a curve). The quicker the acceleration the worse the shudder. Also overtime it became more pronounced. Once at speed or upon deceleration (clutch in or out) it went away. Most posts mention the likely culprits as inner cv axles or bad motor mounts.
I knew from a previous wrenching job (1 yr ago) the side motor mount was failing (a 1/2" crack). Over time I had worsening vibration at idle especially before warmed up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on. Because of all of this I opted to replace the mounts (b/f cv axles) and go with the XLR8 62a mounts. I put it off for a long while because I thought of replacing engine mounts as being akin to getting socks for Christmas. Upon tear-down the side and front were both completely broken. I could not have easily seen the front failure until it was out. I test drove after replacing the side and front and the shudder was gone! You mentioned a side replacement. A broken front will have more of a negative impact as it does the most work in preventing fore/aft engine movement. Is the front confirmed good? If bad, a big engine shift misaligns the drive-line and causes an acceleration vibration.
If mount replacement is in your future - I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts (also replaced the rear after a few days) have improved the car! I previously hated the clutch (had done the check valve delete). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching against a wet noodle. Clutch isn't perfect but way easier to "feel". There is another recent thread on the XLR8 62a install and I agree with the pros. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. On the cons side - there is a bit of vibration with them at idle (smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons.
Best Wishes......
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Undying Dreams (11-26-2012)
11-26-2012, 07:30 AM
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where do you feel the vibration? in the steering wheel?? the floor and your butt?? at what speeds/rpms?? going straight?? coming out of turns and then going straight??
at your mileage it wouldn't be surprising if it was a bad axle (inner CV). mine went bad around 45k mi.
at your mileage it wouldn't be surprising if it was a bad axle (inner CV). mine went bad around 45k mi.
I don't think I ever heard of this but would be interested
TLtrigirl asks good diagnostic questions..... Let us know the symptoms...
On my 04 TL 6MT I had a near violent shudder (worse than a vibration) under acceleration roughly between 45-70 mph (whether going straight or around a curve). The quicker the acceleration the worse the shudder. Also overtime it became more pronounced. Once at speed or upon deceleration (clutch in or out) it went away. Most posts mention the likely culprits as inner cv axles or bad motor mounts.
I knew from a previous wrenching job (1 yr ago) the side motor mount was failing (a 1/2" crack). Over time I had worsening vibration at idle especially before warmed up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on. Because of all of this I opted to replace the mounts (b/f cv axles) and go with the XLR8 62a mounts. I put it off for a long while because I thought of replacing engine mounts as being akin to getting socks for Christmas. Upon tear-down the side and front were both completely broken. I could not have easily seen the front failure until it was out. I test drove after replacing the side and front and the shudder was gone! You mentioned a side replacement. A broken front will have more of a negative impact as it does the most work in preventing fore/aft engine movement. Is the front confirmed good? If bad, a big engine shift misaligns the drive-line and causes an acceleration vibration.
If mount replacement is in your future - I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts (also replaced the rear after a few days) have improved the car! I previously hated the clutch (had done the check valve delete). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching against a wet noodle. Clutch isn't perfect but way easier to "feel". There is another recent thread on the XLR8 62a install and I agree with the pros. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. On the cons side - there is a bit of vibration with them at idle (smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons.
Best Wishes......
On my 04 TL 6MT I had a near violent shudder (worse than a vibration) under acceleration roughly between 45-70 mph (whether going straight or around a curve). The quicker the acceleration the worse the shudder. Also overtime it became more pronounced. Once at speed or upon deceleration (clutch in or out) it went away. Most posts mention the likely culprits as inner cv axles or bad motor mounts.
I knew from a previous wrenching job (1 yr ago) the side motor mount was failing (a 1/2" crack). Over time I had worsening vibration at idle especially before warmed up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on. Because of all of this I opted to replace the mounts (b/f cv axles) and go with the XLR8 62a mounts. I put it off for a long while because I thought of replacing engine mounts as being akin to getting socks for Christmas. Upon tear-down the side and front were both completely broken. I could not have easily seen the front failure until it was out. I test drove after replacing the side and front and the shudder was gone! You mentioned a side replacement. A broken front will have more of a negative impact as it does the most work in preventing fore/aft engine movement. Is the front confirmed good? If bad, a big engine shift misaligns the drive-line and causes an acceleration vibration.
If mount replacement is in your future - I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts (also replaced the rear after a few days) have improved the car! I previously hated the clutch (had done the check valve delete). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching against a wet noodle. Clutch isn't perfect but way easier to "feel". There is another recent thread on the XLR8 62a install and I agree with the pros. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. On the cons side - there is a bit of vibration with them at idle (smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons.
Best Wishes......
11-26-2012, 07:40 AM
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leaning towards motor mount or bad axle.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
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11-26-2012, 07:49 AM
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leaning towards motor mount or bad axle.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...sep401_b47.png
11-26-2012, 08:07 AM
#9
11-26-2012, 09:20 AM
#10
Race Director
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-par.../50830-sep-a13
Haven't done engine mounts yet, but the front is fairly easy. It's just a little tight for space. The side is plum easy, the rear is a bitch. Torque spec for the 4 bolts is 40 ft-lbs.
I just searched the Service Department and unless I just missed it, there is no Engine Mount DIY listed?
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-26-2012 at 09:23 AM.
11-26-2012, 09:38 AM
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11-26-2012, 12:36 PM
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11-26-2012, 01:03 PM
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I get a vibration/shudder accelerating at ~20mph, then it goes away. Why would it only be at 20?
11-26-2012, 01:54 PM
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vibrations can range from many things....as simple as not well balanced tires/cup or bubble in the tires/bent rim to axles/mounts etc
try to tackle them one at a time....get the tires rebalanced and check for any rims being bent....if the vibrations go away then fine else check the motor mounts and so on....
EDIT: the only time vibrations come in from the brakes is while you are braking and that is usually caused by warped rotors....
try to tackle them one at a time....get the tires rebalanced and check for any rims being bent....if the vibrations go away then fine else check the motor mounts and so on....
EDIT: the only time vibrations come in from the brakes is while you are braking and that is usually caused by warped rotors....
Last edited by swoosh; 11-26-2012 at 01:56 PM.
11-26-2012, 02:19 PM
#15
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vibrations can range from many things....as simple as not well balanced tires/cup or bubble in the tires/bent rim to axles/mounts etc
try to tackle them one at a time....get the tires rebalanced and check for any rims being bent....if the vibrations go away then fine else check the motor mounts and so on....
EDIT: the only time vibrations come in from the brakes is while you are braking and that is usually caused by warped rotors....
try to tackle them one at a time....get the tires rebalanced and check for any rims being bent....if the vibrations go away then fine else check the motor mounts and so on....
EDIT: the only time vibrations come in from the brakes is while you are braking and that is usually caused by warped rotors....
11-26-2012, 02:35 PM
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tires/wheels ok? then move onto axles or motor mounts or suspension components.
yours sounds like an axle issue (inner CV wearing). i had similar symptoms with my driver's side axle. replaced. all gone.
11-26-2012, 03:03 PM
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11-28-2012, 09:10 PM
#18
04-TL/MDX/77-CELICA GT
TLtrigirl at hwy speeds?
leaning towards motor mount or bad axle.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
i know with my bad axle the vibration would only be from 20-40mph. it would go away at hwy speeds as far as i can tell.
i still have a subtle vibration at hwy speeds (even after new tires, and complete road force balance). after reading about motor mount issues...i have a feeling that is what it might be.
Apologies it has been a few days since I have been on. (I was wrenching on the wife's 1G MDX - finally lowered 1 inch (slightly firmer) and added some positive caster - much more planted at highway speeds.... oops, sorry off topic - I am excited
) Many good thoughts along with Swoosh on vibration causes. It could be a mount in your case. Is the subtle vibration at hwy speeds present when you are at a constant speed or only when accelerating? If acceleration I would have the mount(s) looked at.
If it is not the mounts, others have reported problems with the front Lower Control Arm Bushings (aka compliance bushings) causing hwy speed vibrations. https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/04-08-front-lower-control-arm-bushing-failure-please-read-look-707888/ has some mention of this in the thread. It is a long and very long time duration thread - so you have to spend some time in it but very informative. I replaced them with the new PCI LCA bushings (in a few threads) a few weeks back as one was torn. (Mini PCI review - amazing road feel (think feedback via the steering wheel) and some reduction in torque steer but I can't be sure how much as the new engine mounts improved that too. Cons - some may say the road feel is a bit too much. If a poor road surface I can feel it in the steering wheel. Michigan has a lot of rough surfaced roads in addition to potholes.)
Another option would be to go with the OEM LCA bushings and it makes A LOT of sense to fill the bushing voids (referenced in the thread I mentioned) with the hardest (i.e. durometer) Liquid Urethane often used in motor mounts (but wont work in our liquid filled mounts - not the same stuff) or the window weld stuff) - see http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=DIYMMI. In theory this would firm them up (but not as much as the PCIs) and prevent premature failure. If you are not a full DIYer you could purchase the urethane and bushings and fill the voids at home and them take them to your mechanic just make sure to not cover the orientation marks on the OEM bushings as they have to go in at a certain angle.
Sorry so long but this stuff can be a bit technical - Best Wishes!
11-28-2012, 09:26 PM
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^^hmm. constant speed is a bit tough in my area (traffic). the vibration is subtle and it seems like i feel it more on the Rt. side of the steering wheel. it tends to come and go.
i have briefly browsed the LCA thread you referenced, but didn't reallly get too in depth with it (it was a while ago i lurked in it-before my vibration issue).
with this type of stuff i'm not too DIY, and i'm not sure how DIY my brother would be. i'll have my dealer (they take good care of me and the cars, so i dont' mind paying them) take a peek at the motor mounts the next time the TL goes in for an oil change (yes, i could do this, but facilities and dispensing of the old oil....i just don't wanna bother).
thanks for the in depth help! i'll explore more of the LCA thread and see if that's what might be causing it.
side note: i've been curious as to swapping the RSB out in my MDX with the RSB from the sport model to see how my 2G MDX handles on the base suspension. it's been done...then again i can chirp the tires in hard cornering without mods
i have briefly browsed the LCA thread you referenced, but didn't reallly get too in depth with it (it was a while ago i lurked in it-before my vibration issue).
with this type of stuff i'm not too DIY, and i'm not sure how DIY my brother would be. i'll have my dealer (they take good care of me and the cars, so i dont' mind paying them) take a peek at the motor mounts the next time the TL goes in for an oil change (yes, i could do this, but facilities and dispensing of the old oil....i just don't wanna bother).
thanks for the in depth help! i'll explore more of the LCA thread and see if that's what might be causing it.
side note: i've been curious as to swapping the RSB out in my MDX with the RSB from the sport model to see how my 2G MDX handles on the base suspension. it's been done...then again i can chirp the tires in hard cornering without mods
11-29-2012, 08:57 PM
#20
04-TL/MDX/77-CELICA GT
Hey guys my 04 acura tl 6mt with 126000k miles is vibrating under acceleration. Had one of my engine mounts changed (side mount). The only thing I can possibly think of is a bad axle. I had a hit something on the highway and it cracked one of my aftermarket rims (Passenger Side). My winter setup is now back on. I got an alignment, new tires and rims. I went to a mechanic and Sears (friend works there) and they both told me everything looks fine (All my suspension components). I would like to get this fixed ASAP. I have been searching on here for 2 days looking for an answer and couldnt find anything. Anyone can shed some light on this issue?
Any luck?
Would you describe the vibration under acceleration as a near violent shudder? Is it worse the harder you accelerate? I lived with mine for about 3 moths and it continually worsened.
This weekend, I will be able to take a pic of my removed front mount and the barely noticeable crack that I could not see until I pulled it out of the car. This is what caused my near violent shudder that was worse the harder you accelerated.
That being said - I noticed you got a thumbs up on the suspension. I posted above about the front lower control arm bushing and the thread at https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888 . Some have reported no problems found but these bushings are really hard to see the cracks in. You can actually take a picture with the flash on as mentioned in the thread above to better see the cracks. There are stories of even Acura dealerships not finding the cracks at first look (at least in the early years the 3G was introduced). This defect causes a vib not necessarily related to just acceleration. I found that I actually had bad lower control arm bushings AND bad mounts...
Best Wishes...
Last edited by UNIVERSE_04; 11-29-2012 at 08:59 PM. Reason: typo
11-29-2012, 10:00 PM
#21
I am having the same problem. I just replaced my LCA bushings and after the install I am getting a vibration when accelerating. It is noticeable after 40mph when the engine is under load and its not apparent at lower speeds. I'm not sure if it is the axles or the engine mounts that are causing the issue. Is there any way to tell? The engine mounts are not leaking and my side mount is new. Please help.
11-30-2012, 07:24 AM
#22
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TLFTW,
Any luck?
Would you describe the vibration under acceleration as a near violent shudder? Is it worse the harder you accelerate? I lived with mine for about 3 moths and it continually worsened.
This weekend, I will be able to take a pic of my removed front mount and the barely noticeable crack that I could not see until I pulled it out of the car. This is what caused my near violent shudder that was worse the harder you accelerated.
That being said - I noticed you got a thumbs up on the suspension. I posted above about the front lower control arm bushing and the thread at https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888 . Some have reported no problems found but these bushings are really hard to see the cracks in. You can actually take a picture with the flash on as mentioned in the thread above to better see the cracks. There are stories of even Acura dealerships not finding the cracks at first look (at least in the early years the 3G was introduced). This defect causes a vib not necessarily related to just acceleration. I found that I actually had bad lower control arm bushings AND bad mounts...
Best Wishes...
Any luck?
Would you describe the vibration under acceleration as a near violent shudder? Is it worse the harder you accelerate? I lived with mine for about 3 moths and it continually worsened.
This weekend, I will be able to take a pic of my removed front mount and the barely noticeable crack that I could not see until I pulled it out of the car. This is what caused my near violent shudder that was worse the harder you accelerated.
That being said - I noticed you got a thumbs up on the suspension. I posted above about the front lower control arm bushing and the thread at https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707888 . Some have reported no problems found but these bushings are really hard to see the cracks in. You can actually take a picture with the flash on as mentioned in the thread above to better see the cracks. There are stories of even Acura dealerships not finding the cracks at first look (at least in the early years the 3G was introduced). This defect causes a vib not necessarily related to just acceleration. I found that I actually had bad lower control arm bushings AND bad mounts...
Best Wishes...
Yes it is very violent. It happens through all gears. The vibration is bad at lower speeds but slightly decreases at highway speeds. I would say 60mph and up is when it the vibration isn't as much. It does get worst the harder I accelerate.
I did see the link and will look into that if the problem doesn't go away when I install the front mount. The rear mounts never go bad on these cars?
12-10-2012, 12:42 PM
#23
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Ok everyone I finally got around to working on the car this weekend due to finals. Anyways the front mount got installed and it reduced a lot of vibration but I'm still getting vibration under acceleration
12-10-2012, 01:15 PM
#24
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did you do the axle (s)? or only the front mount? sorry my memory is a bit short since you've been at trying to get your vibration resolved.
vibrations are annoying since all it seems like is chasing symptoms.
vibrations are annoying since all it seems like is chasing symptoms.
12-10-2012, 01:18 PM
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Exactly how I feel. I got front mount changed recently and side mount changed a month ago. I had the whole suspension checked including axles and everything was fine. Can shops normally determine if axles are bent?
12-10-2012, 02:30 PM
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^^^ have you checked your wheel for bends? or tires for bubble/cup? balanced your wheels? do you have another set of wheels you can swap and check?
12-10-2012, 03:42 PM
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when my axles started acting up, one of my axles clicked ONLY when the temps were below 50 and only at initial start up (the grease warmed up, hence the click went away as the day went on). funny thing...i never told my dealer about it (since it wasn't doing anything). the car stayed the night, they tested drove it...then mentioned to me that my outer CV on the passenger side was clicking-gee thanks guys i already knew that! the other axle had the vibration (inner CV).
i have a feeling my subtle vibration (different than the CV vibration), at hwy speeds is from the LCA compliance bushing on the passenger side. i haven't checked, since it hasn't gotten to a point of utter annoyance yet.
if you've ruled out wheels/tires and now motor mounts...the next items would be the LCA bushings and the axles. though i'd say its the axles since you get the vibration upon early acceleration that is consistent. from what i read about the LCA bushing vibration is that it can come and go (which is what mine does) at hwy speeds.
i feel your frustration. sounds like you are DIYing many of these jobs. saves a good chunk of change, eats up a lot of time, but if you don't mind doing it...
keep us updated on the next plan of action.
12-10-2012, 03:45 PM
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12-12-2012, 07:40 AM
#32
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vibration issues caused by a worn inner CV can't be seen. it's all in the feel (unfortunately).
when my axles started acting up, one of my axles clicked ONLY when the temps were below 50 and only at initial start up (the grease warmed up, hence the click went away as the day went on). funny thing...i never told my dealer about it (since it wasn't doing anything). the car stayed the night, they tested drove it...then mentioned to me that my outer CV on the passenger side was clicking-gee thanks guys i already knew that! the other axle had the vibration (inner CV).
i have a feeling my subtle vibration (different than the CV vibration), at hwy speeds is from the LCA compliance bushing on the passenger side. i haven't checked, since it hasn't gotten to a point of utter annoyance yet.
if you've ruled out wheels/tires and now motor mounts...the next items would be the LCA bushings and the axles. though i'd say its the axles since you get the vibration upon early acceleration that is consistent. from what i read about the LCA bushing vibration is that it can come and go (which is what mine does) at hwy speeds.
i feel your frustration. sounds like you are DIYing many of these jobs. saves a good chunk of change, eats up a lot of time, but if you don't mind doing it...
keep us updated on the next plan of action.
when my axles started acting up, one of my axles clicked ONLY when the temps were below 50 and only at initial start up (the grease warmed up, hence the click went away as the day went on). funny thing...i never told my dealer about it (since it wasn't doing anything). the car stayed the night, they tested drove it...then mentioned to me that my outer CV on the passenger side was clicking-gee thanks guys i already knew that! the other axle had the vibration (inner CV).
i have a feeling my subtle vibration (different than the CV vibration), at hwy speeds is from the LCA compliance bushing on the passenger side. i haven't checked, since it hasn't gotten to a point of utter annoyance yet.
if you've ruled out wheels/tires and now motor mounts...the next items would be the LCA bushings and the axles. though i'd say its the axles since you get the vibration upon early acceleration that is consistent. from what i read about the LCA bushing vibration is that it can come and go (which is what mine does) at hwy speeds.
i feel your frustration. sounds like you are DIYing many of these jobs. saves a good chunk of change, eats up a lot of time, but if you don't mind doing it...
keep us updated on the next plan of action.
12-25-2012, 01:27 PM
#33
I've been having a similar issue. Violent shake between 58 to 70 mph,. Shake is worse during acceleration, and independent of engine speed. Below 58 and above 70 all is smooth regardless of acceleration or not. I have already had all 4 wheels and tires rotated and balanced but didn't really do much to help through issue. Feels more like a vibration through the body of the car rather than the steering wheel. Any suggestions?
12-25-2012, 09:03 PM
#35
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12-26-2012, 08:51 AM
#36
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Will look at them as soon as I can. Btw just wanted to add, if I sometimes get a heavy foot, pass 5k, shift into 4th gear and left off the gas, it makes a humming sound
12-26-2012, 08:55 AM
#37
takin care of Business in
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I've been having a similar issue. Violent shake between 58 to 70 mph,. Shake is worse during acceleration, and independent of engine speed. Below 58 and above 70 all is smooth regardless of acceleration or not. I have already had all 4 wheels and tires rotated and balanced but didn't really do much to help through issue. Feels more like a vibration through the body of the car rather than the steering wheel. Any suggestions?
the reason was a bubble in the tire....so i got new tires (was about damn time) and got her balanced and aligned....no more vibrations
a bent rim/messed up tire/unbalanced setup will cause vibrations between speeds....lca bushing vibrations usually stay "on" throughout
12-28-2012, 05:46 PM
#38
I hit a pretty sizable pot hole the other night I thought I was going to get a flat for sure. Before that I had a slight vibration now it's a lot worse. I got wheels rebalanced today and put on hubcentric rings some of the vibration went away. I'm suspecting its one of the axles, car as 121K motor mounts were changed at 105K. If axles don't solve the issue I will check bushings.