Davknights

Okay so I was replacing the power steering pump, tried to get serp belt off and it was still seated tightly, and then it broke loose and I realized I stripped the bolt hole in the engine block. So, the bolt is a left handed bolt (reverse threaded) and I cannot find a kit for reverse threaded helicoil for the size I need.....grrrrr. So is it safe to put a normal threaded bolt in here and re drill/tap a larger bolt size? Is it going to loosen and spin off while driving? My car has been stuck in the driveway for two weeks and I’m just lost for what I should do next. Or where to buy what I need. Any help is greatly appreciated. I miss my baby.

thoiboi

i typed, "left handed threaded helicoil" in google and this was the first site that popped up: https://www.mcmaster.com/left-hand-t...lical-inserts/

Davknights

“We do not sell the repair kit that you need in left-hand. We suggest contacting the manufacturer of your tensioner for the replacement part you need.”
emailed to me from company

thoiboi

Well


I would not recommend doing right hand threaded as it will likely just loosen itself while running, there’s a reason it’s left hand threaded

Davknights

That’s what I thought too but wasn’t sure if the bearing would counter that action. But it’s seemingly impossible to find this damn tool kit and if my car is junked from a stripped bolt hole I would be thoroughly annoyed. And it was unavoidable.

peter6

They do sell left-handed inserts, but I can't find one in metric.

I would probably put metric right-threaded insert and either blue or red thread locker just to be sure.

Davknights

I will try that but I’ve exhausted my searching abilities and I want to be sure I’m buying the right thing. I got a quote from a Canada company for the kit and it was $434 😳. That’s as close as I’ve gotten but I feel like there should be a cheaper alternative...

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

holy shit....$434! Nope!!!

Davknights

Open to suggestions ppl I’m lost.

YJLTG-TLS

The left hand thread is on the arm part of the serpentine tensioner, correct?

Probably alot cheaper to buy a replacement tensioner. I know it is not idea but better than a 400$ heli coil kit.

Davknights

Pretty sure it goes into the engine bay, but maybe I’m mistaken?

redbeard1

Hello,

I removed this assembly a few months ago. The two bolts that attach the assembly to the engine are both right-hand thread (see attached image).

Hope this helps.

YJLTG-TLS

Bless you for helping him, he may just need a nut then? in which case he is mistaking it for the mount on the engine in which case a right hand thread heli coil kit should fix the issue.

redbeard1

Thanks but I feel I just added pictures to your previous post. Hopefully the OP will be able to rescue his TL, assuming he has the clearance to helicoil in that spot.

On a related note, I’ve read in other threads and now in this thread that -- if a pulley spins counter-clockwise (CCW), left-hand threading should be used for the securing bolt, otherwise you risk the bolt loosening. I do not doubt the truth of this reasoning, but it occurred to me that the second pulley in this tensioner assembly also turns CCW, yet its bolt is right hand thread (no loctite). Also, the idler pulley for the timing belt turns CCW and that pulley is attached with a right hand thread bolt (with blue loctite).

Anyone have thoughts?

The timing belt adjuster pulley also rotates CCW, and its bolt is right hand thread. However, that bolt is installed with the nut facing the passenger wheel so the wheel turns in the tightening direction.

Anyone have thoughts?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
-6 Adjustment pulley (F) above may turn CCW; however, it (the pulley) is on an arm (#6 on the link below) that is then mounted to the block through the water pump by the TB adjuster bolt (19lb-ft) and auto adjuster collar on which it pivots. Just looked at the one in my Aisin kit. Not sure though if the factory installed 'nut' (front center) is right or left threaded on the through bolt from the rear.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2004...ft-timing-belt

-2 idle pulley (B) bolt I usually blue Loctite.

t-rd

The very large bolt that goes through the auto tensioner, were the idler pulley is, into the engine block is not a left hand threaded bolt. The tensioner pulley has a left hand thread bolt. The reason it has left hand thread is because you need to use a 14mm socket to push on the tensioner pulley bolt forward, or turning it counterclockwise when you look at the front of it, to free the belt. If that bolt has right hand thread, then it would just loosen up.

So you need standard helicoil for the large bolt into the engine block, and good luck with that. You'll have to remove the bolts for all 3 mounts and tilt the engine so high to get to it because it's right next to the frame.

BTW for the timing belt diagram, I use blue locktite for the timing belt idler pulley on the right side, as it comes that way from the factory. The tensioner pulley I believe does not have much stress on the pulley's surface so no locktite is used on that pulley. I have taken that pulley off the piece of metal and there is no locktite on the thread.

redbeard1

Hello,

I just disassembled the one I replaced a few months ago. It is a right hand thread nut.

YJLTG-TLS

I do hope also he can rescue his TL, again yes the thread in the engine block will be a b**ch but shouldn't be impossible to do short of loosening the engine mount and carefully raising the motor. Or a right angle helicoil kit and drill adapter would work.
But hopefully from the sounds of it, the part that is stripped is that pulley on the auto-tensioner which a left-hand nut can hopefully resolve.