snuggles_p_rocks

Recently purcahsed a 2006 TL w/6spd. Everything is in amazing shape and looks to have all of the maintenance kept up with through the dealer from day 1, possibly 1 owner. The only problem I have come across is the clutch seems to want to stick, stay compressed and come back up really slowly, when I do a high RPM run. If anyone has had this happen to them before or might have an idea of what the problem might be, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

ez12a

clutch master or slave cylinder might need to be replaced. Other people have had that issue as well.

That or the clutch might need replacement. How many miles on it?

My master cylinder reservoir seems to be losing a tiny bit of fluid, I have a click in the pedal travel, and shifts are kind of notchy. Might be due for a change. I'll probably change both cylinders while i'm down there.

snuggles_p_rocks

Im thinking it is the slave cylinder, because I had the same issue wit my EKcoupe. I just wasnt sure if there was anything else it might be, so I thought I would ask everyone on here and see what responses came back. Thanks bro

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

My stock clutch acted the exact same way that you describe. I also had the valve removed from the slave.

When I removed the clutch, it was in really good shape so I chalked it up to it being a weird ass clutch design meant more to protect the drive line than being performance based.

DetroitTigers

I am the original owner of a 2006 TL 6-spd with 115K miles and started noticing a somewhat sticky clutch about 2 years ago (~75-80K miles)

Eventually I brought it to the dealer and thought they would have an answer right away thinking that this was a common issue. I described that the problem ONLY occurs during hard acceleration out of 1st and/or 2nd gear in which the clutch pedal feels like it is sticking to the floor and requires pumping of the clutch to let it go sometimes.

The dealer had their head technician test drive it and he couldn't even notice the problem. They did a visual inspection that cost $75 and could not find anything. I was told that they would need to open up the clutch assembly to take a look and at that point it is all bets off and could end up costing a lot due to its intrusiveness. They were saying that replacing the clutch could be in the range of $1000 - $2700 depending upon what is actually wrong.

I did nothing because I didn't want to take on this expense. This was about a year ago and I have been driving my car without accelerating too hard in most cases which is extremely frustrating with a car like this... not to mention I am concerned that it will eventually break and leave me stranded at some point...

I have seen various posts regarding sticky clutches occurring as a result of a leaking clutch master and/or slave cylinder.

What is the going rate to get this fixed? Is it recommended to have this done at a dealer or take it to a reputable transmission place? I don't know enough about fixing manual transmissions/clutches to even attempt something like this on my own...

ez12a

labor appears to be "1.1" hours for a MC replacement, combined with the cost of the part at around $100-130, it will cost around $200-250 for you to get it done at a dealer.

I would not take it to a "universal" car shop/transmission shop. I would take it to a Japanese specialist shop.

snuggles_p_rocks

I changed the slave cylinder on my 96 civic, and it wasn't to difficult. Getting to it and removing it was easy, it was a little tricky getting the new one installed. But with a car like this, I don't want to pin myself into a corner and end up having to pay more money than I would have in the first place. I guess I will just take it easy on the acceleration......which will prove to be one of the hardest things I have ever had to do......and hold off until tax return. I will look into an aftermarket Stage 1 clutch assembly along with installing an exhaust system as well, mine as well knock em out at the same time. Thanks again for the helpful input.

DetroitTigers

So I finally broke down and ponied up the cash to have the Stealer replace both my Master and Slave Cylinders due to a sticky clutch issue I have had for the last 2.5 years.

Did it fix the problem? Well, mostly "yes" and on slight occasions "no".

After talking with the Service Consultant, he said that they did not have the parts and I could schedule a service appointment for a couple days later and they could then evaluate and recommend when I bring it in.

So I requested their head technician who has won awards from Acura as one of the top Acura technicians in the country to look at it. He took a look and did not see any indications of issues with the Master and Slave cylinders such as leaking, etc.

Due to the fact that my manual transmission fluid had never been changed (118K Miles) and bleeding / refilling the system is required when replace the Master / Slave cylinders, I decided to just get fresh parts put in with the clean transmission fluid. The flush refill alone was something like $200 I think...

Mind you, this was not cheap, but I was able to apply a 15% off local dealer coupon to it, so I thought what the heck. I guess between replacing the timing belt at about 100K and now replacing the master / slave cylinders, I am in for the long run on this car.

FYI: I despise the new TLs anyways. I have had the following loners between the Acura and next door Honda dealers: Acura TL, Acura TSX, and Honda Accord. I liked them in this order: TSX, Accord, and then TL. The new TL looks and feels like some sort of Malibu / Taraus / TL / Grand Marquis hybrid but with the nice Acura interior and recent Acura technology. I can't stand driving the new TL in which I can actually SEE the wide HOOD in my vantage point. The 2006 TL is so much more attractive in my opinion and even though a big car, it does not feel like it when driving it since I never can see the hood from my vantage point...

I digress...

Anyways, the sticking problem has virtually gone away even if I rip off hard acceleration runs. It has mostly gone away but there have been a few cases in which I felt either a sticking feeling or maybe a slight clutch slip issue.

Clutch Slip: The head technician never experienced the clutch pedal sticking (I had felt it a lot, but maybe it is because it is my baby and I know how it is supposed to act). He did notice clutch slippage, which I had never really noticed until the master / slave cylinder were replaced (probably because I stopped accelerating hard and never was invoking clutch slippage).

So our course I got a dealer quote for replacing the clutch assembly which was sticker shock of in the neighborhood of $1800. BTW, I called a nationwide transmission shop and they said they would do the same using Honda Genuine Parts for around $1080 or something like that. He guessed that I had about 95K on my car and when I told him that I had 118K, he said that I have done pretty well on the original clutch based upon his 35 years of transmission experience.

Anyways does anyone have comments or advice? I was contemplating putting a racing clutch in instead of an OEM replacement since it needs to be replaced anyways. Not sure about the pros and cons regarding this and need to look for existing posts regarding racing clutch vs. OEM.

Estimated Quote from Acura Dealer for Replacing Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder (before any discounts)

Estimate Date: 2/18/13
Operation: 211100
Desc: Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder, r&r Sport 05/06

• LABOR: 330.13
• PARTS: 267.62
• GOG: 0.00
• MISC.: 31.00
• TAX (6%): 17.86

ESTIMATE TOTAL: $646.61

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

^^price sounds about right for what was done. i had my MC cylinder replaced due to a squeak (via TSB). the squeak was annoying the hell out of me. the going rate was about $300 for the MC cylinder replacement. acura goodwilled 50% of it.

can't help you out on the OEM clutch vs aftermarket. the price is about right there as well from the dealer. good luck.

side note: did you happen to get a 4G TL SHAWD loaner or the FWD version? the SHAWD model...is really impressive compared to the FWD model. i liked it a lot. it's too bad you can't transplant the 3G skin on top of the AWD drivetrain.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

didnt read the thread but the only solution i found that helped my sticky clutch was to change out the clutch.

replaced clutch and sticky pedal is gone.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

i had a sticky clutch in another car i owned...replaced the clutch and all was well until i sold it.