2006 TL needs new starter... DIY or take it in?
#3
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
I replaced my starter at home (well, technically, at a friend's house where my starter died).
I did what Turbonut said to do.
I just wonder if you can replace the starter from under the car, though.
I did what Turbonut said to do.
I just wonder if you can replace the starter from under the car, though.
The following users liked this post:
YeuEmMaiMai (01-03-2017)
#5
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Just an example, info on the Beck/Arnley unit with a 3year/50000 mile warranty.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1999866
#7
What is wrong with your starter? Is it sticking after the start? This happened to my 04 MDX (very common with Acura) and I made the mistake of replacing the oem myself with a crappy rebuild from NAPA. The third time I started the car, it was making the same noise. Brought it in to a mechanic who said the rebuilt NAPA starter was crap.
Fortunately I had never returned my oem for a refund on the core charge. The mechanic had my oem rebuilt and I returned the NAPA one.
The POS from NAPA used to shake the whole car when starting.
Trending Topics
#8
Did anyone have problems loosening/breaking the actual starter bolts? I have removed the battery, tray and disconnected the wires, but can't get the bolts to turn. Any suggestions?
2006 Acura TL
2006 Acura TL
#9
Racer
They will be very tight!! At least very hard to break loose, like all bolts/nuts on Honda, Toyota products. Make sure you have the correct
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
The OEM core you trade in is not the rebuilt unit you will buy, usually
you are sold a cheaply made copy POS. Same with rebuilt alternators, have your oem rebuilt. MY experience.
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
The OEM core you trade in is not the rebuilt unit you will buy, usually
you are sold a cheaply made copy POS. Same with rebuilt alternators, have your oem rebuilt. MY experience.
Last edited by johnny3; 01-21-2011 at 06:14 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Mr Sammo (02-17-2016)
#10
They will be very tight!! At least very hard to break loose, like all bolts/nuts on Honda, Toyota products. Make sure you have the correct
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
Dang^^^^^^ I thought I was old Just kidding
#11
Replacing a starter is an easy task. Just have the manual in-hand while doing the work in case you aren't sure of yourself.
#14
quick add on a heads up, be careful when reconnecting the positive lead from the battery to the solenoid, the fitting is plastic and you can easily( I did) over torque in and break the plastic housing on the solenoid. Luckily I bought the rebuilt starter from a starter shop, he laughed said it happens more frequently than I know, and charged me $20 bucks and gave me a new one and said to go easy on the wrench this time...anyway be careful and don't over torque...
#15
Just put a new starter in my 2006 Acura TL. $93, with shipping (TYC produced starter). New, not reconditioned, lifetime warranty, from RockAuto. Factory one lasted 8 years, 147,000 miles, many thousands of starts. Took 1 hour 15 minutes, start to finish. Removing/installing battery box took an hour of that. Don't expect the battery box to fall out anytime soon. If the Fukushima engineers had put 1/10th of the engineering into the reactor placement and design that the Acura engineers put into this battery box, we wouldn't be eating radioactive fish now.
My Dad is a mechanic, and I grew up wrenching. Don't do everything myself (i.e., right knuckle assembly after kissing a curb I left to my local shop, as it was a big job, needed alignment, etc.). Seriously, the starter itself on this car was CAKE. The battery box was the real pain in the a$$. If needed go the the "need help on removing battery box ASAP thread--it is crucuial in getting this thing done.
Very pleased so far with the RockAuto starter (use them for >80% of my repair parts). It fires fast, firm. Thanks to everyone on here for the prior experience/pointers to do this job!! If someone on here computer literate can post some detailed photos/video of the removal, once you know how, the battery box removal only takes 5-10 minutes. YouTube is OK for some of these jobs, but not this one. Their video simply says "remove the battery box", not a bit of help. Thanks again!
My Dad is a mechanic, and I grew up wrenching. Don't do everything myself (i.e., right knuckle assembly after kissing a curb I left to my local shop, as it was a big job, needed alignment, etc.). Seriously, the starter itself on this car was CAKE. The battery box was the real pain in the a$$. If needed go the the "need help on removing battery box ASAP thread--it is crucuial in getting this thing done.
Very pleased so far with the RockAuto starter (use them for >80% of my repair parts). It fires fast, firm. Thanks to everyone on here for the prior experience/pointers to do this job!! If someone on here computer literate can post some detailed photos/video of the removal, once you know how, the battery box removal only takes 5-10 minutes. YouTube is OK for some of these jobs, but not this one. Their video simply says "remove the battery box", not a bit of help. Thanks again!
#16
Intermediate
Didn't want to start a new thread. So I did a search.
My 06 TL starter just failed.
For those interested, here's a youtube link on how to remove the battery tray:
and a link on how to test the starter, once you get it out.
The price of a remanufactured OEM is still very high plus the cost of the core charge/deposit.
I too like others above buy from Rockauto and I've looked at the brands they are selling.
But I'm interested in having my original that I just took out rebuilt. Does anyone know the cost associated with having it done? The other thing is finding a reputable shop.
Just to get an idea of what it would cost to buy the OEM, I called my local Acura dealership parts, the guy says that the remanufactured unit is $355.00 and if I bring in the old unit, they'll credit me back $50.00. I think he probably means $355 + 50 up front. He sounded like he had difficulty understanding what he's seeing on the computer screen.
I also called Delray (acuraoemparts.com) they have the remanufactured OEM unit for $228+$22 (s/h) ~250 plus there is a core charge of $50. So once I receive the unit from them, I have to pay to have the older unit ship back to them to collect back my $50.
New unit from them $317.00.
My 06 TL starter just failed.
For those interested, here's a youtube link on how to remove the battery tray:
and a link on how to test the starter, once you get it out.
The price of a remanufactured OEM is still very high plus the cost of the core charge/deposit.
I too like others above buy from Rockauto and I've looked at the brands they are selling.
But I'm interested in having my original that I just took out rebuilt. Does anyone know the cost associated with having it done? The other thing is finding a reputable shop.
Just to get an idea of what it would cost to buy the OEM, I called my local Acura dealership parts, the guy says that the remanufactured unit is $355.00 and if I bring in the old unit, they'll credit me back $50.00. I think he probably means $355 + 50 up front. He sounded like he had difficulty understanding what he's seeing on the computer screen.
I also called Delray (acuraoemparts.com) they have the remanufactured OEM unit for $228+$22 (s/h) ~250 plus there is a core charge of $50. So once I receive the unit from them, I have to pay to have the older unit ship back to them to collect back my $50.
New unit from them $317.00.
#17
Registered Bunny
You can also read this:
Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
#18
Race Director
You can also read this:
Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Rebuild your starter for less than $20 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
The following users liked this post:
quazman (03-12-2023)
#20
06 Anthracite TL
I can actually chime in here- I haven't replaced a starter on a car, ever, and was able to do it as per the video above in about 90 minutes (yesterday AM after being on in the ER the night before, so no sleep)- I didn't go the OEM route but used a NAPA Premium replacement starter with lifetime warranty for $120 + tax (they sell a standaard one and premium rebuilt type). I accessed the under battery tray bolt using a very long extension from above. It's a pretty easy job.
Ideally, you need a breaker bar with the 17 mm socket to break the starter bolts free- they're very tight.
Ideally, you need a breaker bar with the 17 mm socket to break the starter bolts free- they're very tight.
The following users liked this post:
Mr Sammo (02-17-2016)
#21
Intermediate
Thanks guys.
Polobunny I checked out that site. Interesting.
erdoc48, I agree it was a breeze except for the two screws located under the battery tray. I did exactly as you did by following the instructions in the video.
Tomorrow I'm going to check out an Auto place on Ralph ave here and see about having my unit rebuilt. The guy says they do it. They'll check the unit out first and determined what needs to be done, with a price for the work.
I hope they are rebuilding it and not swapping it out for some cheap copy. I like to know it's my shell and the defective parts inside has been swapped out.
Polobunny I checked out that site. Interesting.
erdoc48, I agree it was a breeze except for the two screws located under the battery tray. I did exactly as you did by following the instructions in the video.
Tomorrow I'm going to check out an Auto place on Ralph ave here and see about having my unit rebuilt. The guy says they do it. They'll check the unit out first and determined what needs to be done, with a price for the work.
I hope they are rebuilding it and not swapping it out for some cheap copy. I like to know it's my shell and the defective parts inside has been swapped out.
#22
Thanks guys.
Polobunny I checked out that site. Interesting.
erdoc48, I agree it was a breeze except for the two screws located under the battery tray. I did exactly as you did by following the instructions in the video.
Tomorrow I'm going to check out an Auto place on Ralph ave here and see about having my unit rebuilt. The guy says they do it. They'll check the unit out first and determined what needs to be done, with a price for the work.
I hope they are rebuilding it and not swapping it out for some cheap copy. I like to know it's my shell and the defective parts inside has been swapped out.
Polobunny I checked out that site. Interesting.
erdoc48, I agree it was a breeze except for the two screws located under the battery tray. I did exactly as you did by following the instructions in the video.
Tomorrow I'm going to check out an Auto place on Ralph ave here and see about having my unit rebuilt. The guy says they do it. They'll check the unit out first and determined what needs to be done, with a price for the work.
I hope they are rebuilding it and not swapping it out for some cheap copy. I like to know it's my shell and the defective parts inside has been swapped out.
#24
#25
Intermediate
Does anyone know where I can get just the replacement brushes for the starter.
Took the unit apart. Cleaned out the Armature housing, armature and contacts with mineral spirits. Quite a lot of carbon dust was in the unit. Since I didn't have replacement carbon brushes (4) on hand I just put it back together and tested it. Tested fine. Motor and clutch. I haven't installed it yet.
The brush length is just about the service limit.
That old link to the Integra forum is for the contacts only. Checked out ebay for brushes only, but it's like hit or miss as to what they are selling.
If you look at the online acura dealers selling parts, the brush holder is $88 dollars. It's just a piece of plastic holding the brushes. Unreal.
Many videos on youtube about so called "rebuilding" or "re-manufactured", is just cleaning out and replacing brushes. That is why your old unit is worth a lot.
Took the unit apart. Cleaned out the Armature housing, armature and contacts with mineral spirits. Quite a lot of carbon dust was in the unit. Since I didn't have replacement carbon brushes (4) on hand I just put it back together and tested it. Tested fine. Motor and clutch. I haven't installed it yet.
The brush length is just about the service limit.
That old link to the Integra forum is for the contacts only. Checked out ebay for brushes only, but it's like hit or miss as to what they are selling.
If you look at the online acura dealers selling parts, the brush holder is $88 dollars. It's just a piece of plastic holding the brushes. Unreal.
Many videos on youtube about so called "rebuilding" or "re-manufactured", is just cleaning out and replacing brushes. That is why your old unit is worth a lot.
#26
Google starter rebuild kit. you really should replace all of the parts that are in the rebuild kit
Starter Motor Brush Plate Repair Kits
Starter Motor Brush Plate Repair Kits
#27
Intermediate
Google starter rebuild kit. you really should replace all of the parts that are in the rebuild kit
Starter Motor Brush Plate Repair Kits
Starter Motor Brush Plate Repair Kits
If you download the pdf of the workshop manual for Gen 3 TL, it goes through step by step how to check each component found in the starter (4-7).
Take a look at this video on service/rebuilding starters:
For the 2006 TL the brushes could easily be replaced, IF they were made available. It's so freaking simple, it pisses you off because they make you buy that cap that holds the brushes. $89.00. A real joke.
Once you remove the two long bolts, the components can be removed. You can check the armature/communicator. Clean out the armature housing for carbon deposit. You will find quite a lot. Check the brush holder (plastic) which is held in place by two little screws to the end cap. Clean the leads and contacts of any carbon deposit. The only difficulty is finding the right size carbon brushes for replacement. The springs are in excellent condition. The carbon brushes looks to be square. Like any motor the brushes are usually the issue having worn down.
For you to get the brushes they force you to buy the brush holder. It's plastic and is probably worth $10. But they have it listed for $89.00. Go figure huh.
check out the pricing from this online dealer:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...ll&vinsrch=yes
Last edited by thx1138; 08-17-2015 at 12:47 AM.
#28
Starter Bottom Bolt
They will be very tight!! At least very hard to break loose, like all bolts/nuts on Honda, Toyota products. Make sure you have the correct
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
The OEM core you trade in is not the rebuilt unit you will buy, usually
you are sold a cheaply made copy POS. Same with rebuilt alternators, have your oem rebuilt. MY experience.
METRIC socket or wrench, put a cheater pipe or something on the wrench if you have room to use it or put the box end of your wrench
on the bolt & smack the end of the wrench repeatedly till it breaks loose
(if you have room to strike it).
The OEM core you trade in is not the rebuilt unit you will buy, usually
you are sold a cheaply made copy POS. Same with rebuilt alternators, have your oem rebuilt. MY experience.
#29
I can actually chime in here- I haven't replaced a starter on a car, ever, and was able to do it as per the video above in about 90 minutes (yesterday AM after being on in the ER the night before, so no sleep)- I didn't go the OEM route but used a NAPA Premium replacement starter with lifetime warranty for $120 + tax (they sell a standaard one and premium rebuilt type). I accessed the under battery tray bolt using a very long extension from above. It's a pretty easy job.
Ideally, you need a breaker bar with the 17 mm socket to break the starter bolts free- they're very tight.
Ideally, you need a breaker bar with the 17 mm socket to break the starter bolts free- they're very tight.
The battery tray takes the most amount of time simply because of the location of one certain bolt. I went underneath the wheel well to access the bolt. Once you take out that certain bolt and take out the battery tray, one bit of advice is to take that battery tray and cut those bottom holes into slots. So when you place back the battery tray, the bottom bolts only have to be tightened. Also makes the starter replacement easier for the next time.
#30
YES! At the very least a breaker bar, 1/4" drive extension, and 17mm socket.
The battery tray takes the most amount of time simply because of the location of one certain bolt. I went underneath the wheel well to access the bolt. Once you take out that certain bolt and take out the battery tray, one bit of advice is to take that battery tray and cut those bottom holes into slots. So when you place back the battery tray, the bottom bolts only have to be tightened. Also makes the starter replacement easier for the next time.
The battery tray takes the most amount of time simply because of the location of one certain bolt. I went underneath the wheel well to access the bolt. Once you take out that certain bolt and take out the battery tray, one bit of advice is to take that battery tray and cut those bottom holes into slots. So when you place back the battery tray, the bottom bolts only have to be tightened. Also makes the starter replacement easier for the next time.
#32
Tape the bolt to the socket with Scotch tape, it will hold the bolt, and will assist to get the bolt threaded in.
#34
I had used an AutoZone Duralast starter on my 2004 TSX many years ago. It now has 239,000 miles and still starts fine. So I bought the AutoZone Duralast starter for my 2006 TL as well.
#36
Senior Moderator
anyone know if these brushes would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Repair-Kit-Brushes-Brush-Holder-For-Mitsuba-Acura-Honda-/371639403745?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Repair-Kit-Brushes-Brush-Holder-For-Mitsuba-Acura-Honda-/371639403745?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
#37
Banned
Piggybacking on this thread rather than starting my own.
Car can clutch start just fine, battery seems fine (although I haven't done a voltage measurement on it). Ignition goes to start and you get a single click, Nav resets, but lights do not dim. I disconnected the ~16/18ga butt fitting wire on top of the starter/solenoid, and did not receive the click.
Starter, yeah? I think this might be the original unit.
EDIT - I will say there were absolutely no symptoms leading up to this. Started fine in the parking lot, I stalled on a speed hump waiting for someone to come across the road, and declined to start again conventionally.
Car can clutch start just fine, battery seems fine (although I haven't done a voltage measurement on it). Ignition goes to start and you get a single click, Nav resets, but lights do not dim. I disconnected the ~16/18ga butt fitting wire on top of the starter/solenoid, and did not receive the click.
Starter, yeah? I think this might be the original unit.
EDIT - I will say there were absolutely no symptoms leading up to this. Started fine in the parking lot, I stalled on a speed hump waiting for someone to come across the road, and declined to start again conventionally.
Last edited by CocheseUGA; 10-18-2016 at 05:35 PM.
#38
Mirror trick
Just did this job on my 2005 TL with 127,000. If you turn the ignition and the dash lights up, its not the ignition switch. Also you should be able to hear a quite click by your feet - if you do, you know its not the relay switch. So it is the starter that is the problem. To take the pain in a@@ back battery holder out, I placed a mini mag light resting on the starter facing the direction of the battery bolt, then I used my wife's compact mirror to see the bolt with one hand. I then used the slimmest ratchet extender with the 12 mm until it grabbed with the other hand. Prior to doing this I sprayed the large bolts holding the starter to the engine with- wd40. Used braker bar on the top bolt- no problem. The bottom bolt I could not use the braker bar since the one I have does not have a ratchet and there is limited space because of air filter. Instead I had to use the largest ratchet I with large pipe over the end. Took about 1 hour and 45 minutes and I am no gear head. I bought the auto zone new-on sale. I will let you know if it lasts.
#39
I got a rebuild starter from Advance Auto for $95 with a 50% discount coupon a few years ago for my then 75K miles '06, the car currently has 115K iwith that starter so a vote for a rebuild from AA.
#40
This thread was super helpful so I figured I'd make a post in case my story helps anyone else out.
2005 6MT with 128k. No symptoms up until the starter actually went out, just came back to it after driving it all day and all of a sudden no crank. I was about ready to just bump start it but I clutched in and out several times and got it started again so thought it might be the clutch inhibitor switch going bad. Drove it normally back home. Went out the next morning to go to work and no crank again. But again, I kept clutching in and out and got it started. Finally that evening, as soon as I got it back home and turned it off I couldn't get it going unless I bump started it. Bypassed the clutch inhibitor switch, but still no crank. Switched out the starter relay, no crank. Battery had been recently replaced, terminals were clean and neither the headlights or interior lights dimmed when I turned the key so I ruled that out. All of this finally pointed to the starter and I decided that I'd try to do it myself after researching on here. Ordered a new aftermarket starter from Rock Auto (only one new option for the manual trans), and used the video linked above as my guide.
As commented before the battery tray was the most annoying part. The video recommended getting to that last hidden bolt from underneath the car, but I just attached the socket to a 10 in extension and guided it to the bolt by touch. Once I got it on there I attached the ratchet and it came out easy. A breaker bar is a MUST for the starter bolts. Other than that, it was very straightforward. Only other note is to be very careful with all of the plastics. They were super brittle from their age and from years of Texas heat, so the cable holder on the left side of the battery box snapped off when I tried to reattach the cable and a plastic piece fell behind the radiator fan. The longest part of the whole job was fishing that out
Haven't heard anything negative about this aftermarket starter (POWER SELECT 17899N), but I'm going to have the OEM one rebuilt and keep it around just in case. The starter ran $100, and I bought a breaker bar and socket extensions from Harbor Freight so all in about $130 and an hour of time.
2005 6MT with 128k. No symptoms up until the starter actually went out, just came back to it after driving it all day and all of a sudden no crank. I was about ready to just bump start it but I clutched in and out several times and got it started again so thought it might be the clutch inhibitor switch going bad. Drove it normally back home. Went out the next morning to go to work and no crank again. But again, I kept clutching in and out and got it started. Finally that evening, as soon as I got it back home and turned it off I couldn't get it going unless I bump started it. Bypassed the clutch inhibitor switch, but still no crank. Switched out the starter relay, no crank. Battery had been recently replaced, terminals were clean and neither the headlights or interior lights dimmed when I turned the key so I ruled that out. All of this finally pointed to the starter and I decided that I'd try to do it myself after researching on here. Ordered a new aftermarket starter from Rock Auto (only one new option for the manual trans), and used the video linked above as my guide.
As commented before the battery tray was the most annoying part. The video recommended getting to that last hidden bolt from underneath the car, but I just attached the socket to a 10 in extension and guided it to the bolt by touch. Once I got it on there I attached the ratchet and it came out easy. A breaker bar is a MUST for the starter bolts. Other than that, it was very straightforward. Only other note is to be very careful with all of the plastics. They were super brittle from their age and from years of Texas heat, so the cable holder on the left side of the battery box snapped off when I tried to reattach the cable and a plastic piece fell behind the radiator fan. The longest part of the whole job was fishing that out
Haven't heard anything negative about this aftermarket starter (POWER SELECT 17899N), but I'm going to have the OEM one rebuilt and keep it around just in case. The starter ran $100, and I bought a breaker bar and socket extensions from Harbor Freight so all in about $130 and an hour of time.