Stainless Steel brake lines.

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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 01:40 PM
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Stainless Steel brake lines.

Over this past weekend, I installed the ss brake lines. However, I could not get my rear lines unscrewed with the flare wrench. The fronts were not an issue. I stopped messing with the rears so I wouldnt round out the head of the bolts. Has anyone hand these issues???
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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Am I the only one???
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 08:58 AM
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Hey bud,

I have the 2008 base model i did this mod about 2 months ago and no issues for the front or rear the lines came off nice and easy. I untightened the bolts with a little bit of pressure. Try to use seafoam lubricant to loosen the bolts or try a different lubricating liquid and then attempt again thats the only advice i can give you
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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use some pb blaster the day before and get a good set of vise grips
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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my fronts were a bitch.
I used vice grips.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:38 AM
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damn i guess i was lucky lol, yea PB blaster is also a very good product as prject TL said apply it and let is sit so it can work its way through the rust if any. Then a good pair of vice grips would be a very good way to get this done. Project TL i like what you've got goin on with your car so far man. I cant wait for the warm weather already lol
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Did any of you that used the vise grips, round out the head of the bolt? It seems to be a soft metal.

Also, I have been hearing a noise when i turn right. I checked it out and its my front left brake line rubbing against the wheel. WTH???
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 01:58 PM
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^yes, originally...i made a noob mistake and did NOT use flare nut wrenches.
I rounded the motherfuckers.
I had to pinch the rounded head with the vice to get them off.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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I bought a 10mm flare wrench...fronts came off easy. I kept rounding the head of the bolts for the rears and I just stopped. Didn't want to screw it up and be in a bad situation. Also, come to find out, I need to re-bleed the brakes. Pedal is too soft. There goes the Motul brake fluid...smh
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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Hit it with some heat and it'll break loose easily.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sir Drake
I bought a 10mm flare wrench...fronts came off easy. I kept rounding the head of the bolts for the rears and I just stopped. Didn't want to screw it up and be in a bad situation. Also, come to find out, I need to re-bleed the brakes. Pedal is too soft. There goes the Motul brake fluid...smh
rebleeding doesnt mean you'll lose all your fluid....
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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I sure hope not. Preciate the responses.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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whats your update ? Did you rebleed the brake lines ? The procedure that ive done was with a buddy of mine. We bled the rears first then we did the front lines. RR RL FL FR, This was done with the car on supposedly it has a different pressure while the car is running. This solved my issue when the pedal was too soft and luckily I bought 3 bottles of the Motul 5.1 fluid btw its the best fluid ive ever used so far. The combination of the SS lines and fluid, along with my EBC 3GD rotors front and rear and Hawk HPS pads front and rear has been doing me some amazing braking and i have been going over 100 easy and braking is very gooooooooood
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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I'm going to my brothers today to re-bleed. Isnt the sequence FL FR RR RL?
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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I could not get the brackets to move on the rear lines to bolt down. Is this OK?
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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yes that is the correct way to do it but as i did it the way i stated above in my last post it worked perfectly fine and my braking performance is amazing. The reason why you have a soft pedal is because you have air in one of the lines. When you do the pump procedure 3 to 4 pumps on the pedal for each side while the line is open on that 4th pump hold the pedal down then your buddy will close the line and release the pedal and on to the next line.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 03:54 PM
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you start with the wheel farthest away from the mater cylinder and work your way forward.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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Well success...I was able to pop the bolts loose and install the new ss lines for the rear. I bled all the lines in the correct sequence and it brakes better than ever. Preciate the input.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 07:10 AM
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thanks for updating both threads....
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Esanchez8701
yes that is the correct way to do it but as i did it the way i stated above in my last post it worked perfectly fine and my braking performance is amazing. The reason why you have a soft pedal is because you have air in one of the lines. When you do the pump procedure 3 to 4 pumps on the pedal for each side while the line is open on that 4th pump hold the pedal down then your buddy will close the line and release the pedal and on to the next line.
You never pump the pedal with the bleeder open.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 01:02 PM
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ah my mistake i pumped the pedal with the bleeder closed lol sorry i didnt correct my post before i was un able to edit it. Correct I hate cars.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 01:19 PM
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The reason I brought it up is there was a poster recently who couldn't get the air out of his lines and that's what he was doing, pumping the pedal with the bleeder open lol.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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lmao yea that would def lead to having air pockets in the lines and poor stopping power along with that wonderful spongy pedal feel lmao gotta hit that brake pedal to the floor just to engage the brakes. Overall though im very satisfied with my brake set up. When i get more power to the wheels im gonna end up with brembo calipers, then i have to get two new brake lines for the front ughhhh. sucks since i just got the SS lines for my stock calipers, but at least i dont have to change the rear ones.
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