Hi. I just got some axles installed yesterday. Seems solid except for WOT (wide open throttle). Under full acceleration, I get a shutter. Increases with RPM and speed (I guess that's almost a given...).

Issue is, it didn't do this with the bad axles. To break the stubborn spindle nut off, they had the wheel off and hoping on the breaker bar. Could this have messed up a bushing, ball joint, or even my motor mount?

Also, at around 80 MPH it shutters under slight load (I am assuming 2000 RPM). Any insight is appreciated. Any possibilities, I would like to get to the bottom of it.

Thanks

 

shuddering under light load might mean that your torque converter might be slipping/not locking properly.

Did you buy new axles from honda/acura or did you go aftermarket? Many people have reported vibrations with aftermarket parts.

The spindle nut is hit with a chisel and hammer at the factory to dent in a corner to keep it from moving. You need to "un-dent" it and then the nut will be removed.

The only way to check for damage is to lift the car up and look for play. How are your front compliance bushings on the lower control arm?

 

It heavy load with the throttle wide open. Brand new aftermarket axles. I have talked to a mechanic that installs nothing but those, and don't have an issue with them. They are the ones from Advance Auto Parts.

We finally got the nut off, and yes, we removed the dent.

What damage should I be looking for? They were fine before the install, and they seem to look the same. What should I be looking for with the compliance bushings? Thanks in advance!

 

check the compliance bushing thread and you'll find a load of pics of how the torn/cracked bushings look.

Aftermarket axles are know to cause issues on our cars. how bad is the shake? do you feel it in the steering wheel or in the butt of your seat?

If the steering, it's more than likely the axles.

 

First thing I thought of was bad inner joints, especially if you are getting steering wheel shake (as csmeance added). Shudder under load, worse with speed is the classic symptom. Sure it could be compliance bushings or mounts but aftermarket axles...well...


What was the symptom that made you change axles?

 

Not even in the steering. More so the actual seat. I'll check that thread and see what I can find.

 

Question about the compliance bushing: would the shake immediately go away after letting off th throttle? Because that's what happens with my car.

This was the reason I changed.

 

I had a terrible knocking going up hills in the axle or around 2000 rpm under load.

 

Advance auto axles are garbage. I had lots of vibrations under load with mine. Swapped them for OEM axles, car drove perfect.

 

Interesting....well, the ones installed before were told to be non-OEM. I was just trying to remove any other possibilities than it being the axle since they are already installed/paid for.

 

How low are you? I am 2" low about...

 

I pulled mine out and took them back to advance and asked for a refund. Told them that their axles caused vibration and it was a well known issue and that I already fixed the problem with OEM axles. They refunded my money, although their policy is usually only to offer a replacement part.

 

Wondering if I should just contact online support about it, or go straight to the store.

 

Raxles FTW. Expensive but well worth it. Depends on how long you want to hold onto the car.

 

Yeah...I am not paying $400 for 2 new axles...I will go OEM before that..

 

Makes sense. I went with the raxles since the OEM put up a good fight but I do a lot of racing and hard driving. Raxles will give me better life overall. I do plan on keeping this for a long long time so it made sense for me at the time.

The cost of OEM parts are 400 anyway. I paid 460 for what is going to last longer than OEM.

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

 

Not an axle problem!

The issue is rear wheel balance. The vibration in seat indicates this. If there was an issue with the front end of the car, the steering wheel vibration would be the issue.

Get the rears road force balanced by a good shop. Most discount tire's are excellent and have them.

 

Not a rear wheel balance. The issue didn't happen until after the axle installation. The rears were untouched, and it goes away after letting off of acceleration.

 

What are the chances ball joints could be the issue? From this morning, the vibration was virtually gone, and then started back up again. I am thinking, maybe on acceleration, the balljoint is reseating itself or something like that.

I read everywhere that it is the inner axles. Where could it be failing? I have no ripped boots, and the axle is locked in the trans box. I tried removing them (not prying with force, but with hand), but they are in there good.

 

**UPDATE** Issue has since been resolved.

I changed the axles with some used OEM ones and they are fine. I had to unfortunately change the intermediate shaft because the installer jammed the right axle on the shaft, and it had to have fused together. Used heat, and impact hammer, and ended up breaking the intermediate shaft bracket.

Before the bracket broke, I noticed the bearing had grit, and a lot of play...

Therefore I have a whole replaced axle left to right...Also, Advance Auto Parts axles are absolute ass...The inner CV joint separated within 3 weeks. Didn't get a chance to fix ball joints and tie rods, but this has fixed the issue. Just a heads up to anyone considering GSP (advance axles).

Oh yeah, and the inner joint is still stuck to the old intermediate shaft. I am going to contact Advance for a full refund. They caused me more trouble than good with these axles.

 

So you have no more vibrations/shake after changed out to OEM axles?

 

At first I didn't even get the 20mph shake with lowered TL's but after a week I do as before I changed to the crap GSP axles. This seems normal. Sometime there is a very slight shake (only when looking for it). This seems to be normal with lowered TL's.

Someone mentioned my compliance bushings, but the shake is not there enough to take further action. I am satisfied.

BTW, even raxles users seem to get the shake after a while. I am sure it is just the design of the joints.

 

So you have OEM axles installed now?

 

I have a 2.5 inch drop on my car. No vibrations at all with Raxles. Been running it for 2 years now. Just one example but those are bullet proof imho.

 

Yes

A week later, I get a slight shake. Not sure what it could be. Although its no where as bad as it was. I may just deal with it...

 

Good information everyone. I am in the same boat with this vibration/shimmy. Of course I have new Advance Auto axles and I think they are the problem. From a dead stand still WOT the front end vibrates as well as steering wheel shake. If I let off of the throttle the vibration stops. If I start to pull a grade and the car is under load it will shimmy in the front end. I sure hate to drop $400 on new oem axles but this is getting to the point where I don't want to drive the car. I forgot to mention I have a 97 3.0 cl. If the sure fire recommendation is oem please let me know.

 

Hey Don - OEM is essentially the solution. There may be other options out there, but save youself the headache and go OEM or rAxles. Your issue is essentially the same as mine.

Are you lowered? Also, I couldn't bring myself to pay $500 on each axle either. MY alternative was going to the salvage yard, and getting some OEM used ones for $55 each with 1 year warranty on it. It did the trick. I still have a little shake (if that). I heard some Honda's just have a slight shake under load going up a hill or something like that.

End solution - go to the salvage yard, and save yourself the headache I went through.