Bearcat94

Right in the middle of changing front rotors.

Passenger side came off OK with some Liquid Wrench and an Impact Driver.

Driver side did NOT. Both of the GD retaining screw heads are now stripped.

What are my options? Drill 'em out? If so, any tips or watch outs?

TIA.


(Right in the midlle of the job and not search. I need a beer first. FEK!!)

don5504

Easy outs of some sort. Or you could always do it the old fashion way and drill them out. They should sell them at your local hardware store.

D

Legend2TL

I would drill out. I've stripped them also and they are always easy to get out of the wheel hub once the head is drilled off.

A impact screw-driver (the type that turn with the impact of a hammer) are also effective but they guarentee the non-reuse of the screw.

Count to 10, drill out the philips heads, then have that beer. Good luck.

AcuraVic

I drilled them out. I stripped my screws changing my rotors. Sears has a toolkit for removing stripped screws. Good Luck.

01tl4tl

I use an impact screwdriver all the time, and never had issue with damage or destruction of the screw head in any way. Use of the correct size bit is important of course, the TL rotor screws use the biggest one in the kit that comes with the tool

Dont even need to remove whats left in the threads- front rotors only
rear rotors: you must not destroy the screws or threads- they need to get installed again

TrevorT

iTrader: (2)

Same here 01tl4tl, never had any problems with them.


Bearcat, just drill them out. It's a pretty easy task.

Where are you? Don't you live right down the street from me?

01tl4tl

trevor- plug his numbers into yahoo and see if he is nearby-

or just drive down the street listening for the sounds of:
hammer, drill, and plenty of cursing

Legend2TL

The big disadvantage of a impact screwdriver is they can put a tremendous amount of force on the threads. Multiple times than of the fastener's clamping forces. I've seen plenty of motocross riders pull the aluminum threads out of their engine cases getting the side covers off. So use a impact screwdriver only when needed, regular use is not adviced for removing fasteners since it strains the threads in the female side.

01tl4tl

I meant that I use it to remove the rotor screws, between my TL and some local ziners, its been of great help a number of times. Its part of the small toolbox that holds every tool and grease needed for a TL brake job.

For normal screws- unless it were stuck, I just use a normal human powered screwdriver

Bearcat94

Got 'em by drilling them out.

I used the #3 PH bit from the impact set; largest is #4 PH. Like I said, first side came out no problem. Second side stripped.

Trevor - yeah, I'm within 5 miles of you, probably less.

So you guys are saying I have to use retaining screws on the rear????

Legend2TL

One last note, do not use metric philips screws (5mm or 6mm) from the local H/W store. They do not have the corrosion plating or the screw head side flange depth. I used them once and they were REALLY hard to remove the following brake job.

The Honda/Acura screws are fairly cheap ($0.50 each) from the dealer. Also put a very small amount of anti-seeze on the screw head flange sides where it contacts the rotor, it'll help prevent it from freezing to the rotor so removel the next time will be easier.

BADSHARK

Drill them out and replace them, just did it to mine Wed. parts are like 2 dollars at dealer, here is the part number 93600-06014-0H you can get them at Acura or Honda whoever is closer.

Bearcat94

Thanks guys.

I already bought the OEM replacement screw from the dealer. Had 'em for a week, along with Molycote 77, OE Brake Fluid and new brake line clips.

I'm not worried about replacing the 2 on the front that are FUBAR.

Bearcat94

Rears came off, easy-peasy.

I did give them a whack or two in the "tighten" direction first. Then in the "loosen" direction and they screwed right out.

01tl4tl

OE brake fluid???????- with those new SS lines I would suggest you use Synthetic brake fluid as it resist temps way better - 100 degree higher boiling point.
With the new braking power you may find yourself getting things hotter than before

I use the 6 dollar valvoline, fsttyms uses the 15 dollar super blue raceomatic stuff!

Confirming- you DO NOT need the front rotor screws
you DO need them on the rears to hold it flat and tight for the park brake shoes- so they dont get knocked out of position or anything wierd