Replace side mirror actuator motor
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replace side mirror actuator motor
My drivers side mirror is acting up with glitches and once both went down for parallel park while driving, just once. Passenger seems fine. Anybody have service manual write up until i get mine. I want to try cleaning and lubing mine before thinking about replacing. Sure it will require removing door panel and maybe the mirror itself from actuator. Thanks in advance. Oh mirror assembly from myacura.com estore is ~200.00 painted and the actuator is ~40.00. 2004 TL AM non navi AT fully stock(right now).
#2
04Tl
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Try cleaning them, if that doesn't work then you can just buy my mirrors that I have for sale lol.. and by the way taking the door panel off and replacing them is very easy (plug and play)
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#9
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You have two options, basically.
1) Lube the actuator up. At work, we use silicone lube. Usually lasts 6-12 months before needing repeated. You can do this by moving the mirror to its max positions and spraying the lube through the small tube that came with the can on the four actuator pivot points. You can do this without removing the mirror glass, or remove the mirror glass, which will make it easier.
2) Replace the mirror actuator. They are pretty cheap (though I can't remember exactly how cheap, under $30?), and are pretty easy to install. You'll need a thin, 6"-10" flathead to seperate the mirror from the actuator, and either a T10 or T15 Torx to remove the three screws that hold it in. Unplug the connectors, and install the new one.
These are the two options we give to customers at work. Good luck to all you with the probs!
Oh and my , do option one. It's what I've done a few times on my 07.
1) Lube the actuator up. At work, we use silicone lube. Usually lasts 6-12 months before needing repeated. You can do this by moving the mirror to its max positions and spraying the lube through the small tube that came with the can on the four actuator pivot points. You can do this without removing the mirror glass, or remove the mirror glass, which will make it easier.
2) Replace the mirror actuator. They are pretty cheap (though I can't remember exactly how cheap, under $30?), and are pretty easy to install. You'll need a thin, 6"-10" flathead to seperate the mirror from the actuator, and either a T10 or T15 Torx to remove the three screws that hold it in. Unplug the connectors, and install the new one.
These are the two options we give to customers at work. Good luck to all you with the probs!
Oh and my , do option one. It's what I've done a few times on my 07.
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#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. How is the mirror held on, clips that pop or glued or taped? I rather replace so I can lube the new one and have the old as back up. Clean it, lube it and put away in a bag for later. Thanks again, oh can you see what the manual says about removing mirror, my manuals will be here next week.
#11
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The mirror glass is attached to the actuator in a "clip type" setup. You have to see the actuator for this to make sense. You seperate them by inserting the flathead between the glass backing (it's plastic) and the actuator, and simply twist it. Pops the two apart and just unplug the two mirror defrost wires.
As for removing the mirror, you mean the entire assembly? Take the door panel off, pull back the plastic door trim by the mirror, and remove the three nuts holding the mirror on to the door, then unplug the mirror harness. It's really easy, don't worry
As for removing the mirror, you mean the entire assembly? Take the door panel off, pull back the plastic door trim by the mirror, and remove the three nuts holding the mirror on to the door, then unplug the mirror harness. It's really easy, don't worry
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah just the glass. I will try that. I guess it would be smart to protect the paint with sponge or rag while prying. Found this at estore.honda.com 34.00 ++
Last edited by hofiveo; 12-06-2009 at 09:25 PM. Reason: added info
#13
You have two options, basically.
1) Lube the actuator up. At work, we use silicone lube. Usually lasts 6-12 months before needing repeated. You can do this by moving the mirror to its max positions and spraying the lube through the small tube that came with the can on the four actuator pivot points. You can do this without removing the mirror glass, or remove the mirror glass, which will make it easier.
2) Replace the mirror actuator. They are pretty cheap (though I can't remember exactly how cheap, under $30?), and are pretty easy to install. You'll need a thin, 6"-10" flathead to seperate the mirror from the actuator, and either a T10 or T15 Torx to remove the three screws that hold it in. Unplug the connectors, and install the new one.
These are the two options we give to customers at work. Good luck to all you with the probs!
Oh and my , do option one. It's what I've done a few times on my 07.
1) Lube the actuator up. At work, we use silicone lube. Usually lasts 6-12 months before needing repeated. You can do this by moving the mirror to its max positions and spraying the lube through the small tube that came with the can on the four actuator pivot points. You can do this without removing the mirror glass, or remove the mirror glass, which will make it easier.
2) Replace the mirror actuator. They are pretty cheap (though I can't remember exactly how cheap, under $30?), and are pretty easy to install. You'll need a thin, 6"-10" flathead to seperate the mirror from the actuator, and either a T10 or T15 Torx to remove the three screws that hold it in. Unplug the connectors, and install the new one.
These are the two options we give to customers at work. Good luck to all you with the probs!
Oh and my , do option one. It's what I've done a few times on my 07.
I will most likely take route 1. Im sure it was time to lube that sucker up, that's why it isn't moving down smoothly.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
After breaking the actuator like I did, you know where to pry. I will try to explain. If you look on the outside edge of the round part of actuator you will notice 3(three) "tabs" (?) that are located at about 2 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock(look at diagram above). Those "tabs" lock (clip) in to the backside of the mirror itself. So the tip of your screwdriver needs to be against the back of the mirror under the tab your are trying to pry loose. I started with the one at 4 o'clock, 2 o'clock then 8 o'clock. You can push the mirror around if you like, I opted to do it by the switch. Make sure and take your time with the positioning of your light, my wife help hold light while I was looking for the point to put the tip of the screwdriver. Once you get it off unplug the two wires and then it will make sense. Just line the mirror up with the "tabs" and push it back on in center first then work your way out making sure the clip back in. I used white lithium grease to spray the ball part of the actuator behind the round part. All is well. I ordered a new actuator from the estore.honda.com for ~$33 and picked up at dealer. Not an expensive lesson learned. Good Luck
Last edited by hofiveo; 01-09-2010 at 07:52 PM. Reason: clocking corrections?
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Buggernuts (03-14-2018)
#16
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Acura of Manhattan recently replaced the actuator in my passenger side mirror under my extended warranty. I couldn't stand the mirror click tilting back and forth every time I hit a seat memory button.
Acura of Ramsey tried to sell me a whole new mirror assembly while telling me the mirror is not a warranted item. One more item on my extensive list of why this dealer should be avoided. Service department incompetency at its best.
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Acura of Ramsey tried to sell me a whole new mirror assembly while telling me the mirror is not a warranted item. One more item on my extensive list of why this dealer should be avoided. Service department incompetency at its best.
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.
#21
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Thanks for the detailed information on how not to break something I certainly would have broken. Before reading your reply I grabbed a can of WD40 and sprayed both mirrors until the stuff ran out the mirror housing. It took quite a while for the WD40 to finally drip out but the sqeeks are gone. My guess is that I'll end up doing what you did to fix the problem the right way.
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anarang (11-08-2014)
#22
Advanced
what brand/type lube did you use on your mirrors?
i have had both replaced under warranty, now i am out of warranty and they are doing it again..... sucky.
i want to try the lube method first, then if i really need to i will buy the motors again.
p.s. dannyboy10 i can not open the link, it says i am not authorized, can you tell me what the article said please. thank you
there have been issues with that honda site and links not working i noticed with other links
i have had both replaced under warranty, now i am out of warranty and they are doing it again..... sucky.
i want to try the lube method first, then if i really need to i will buy the motors again.
p.s. dannyboy10 i can not open the link, it says i am not authorized, can you tell me what the article said please. thank you
there have been issues with that honda site and links not working i noticed with other links
#24
Advanced
i was thinking about it, and i think the reason my motors get messed up so frequesntly might be because i spray water behind the mirrors when i clean my car.
when i wash my car i ofcourse wash the side mirrors, then i hose them off and make sure there isnt any soap still dripping from behind the mirror.
i guess i need to make sure i dont spray too crazy behind them anymore.
when i wash my car i ofcourse wash the side mirrors, then i hose them off and make sure there isnt any soap still dripping from behind the mirror.
i guess i need to make sure i dont spray too crazy behind them anymore.
#25
Advanced
i got the mirror off pretty easily. and i see the actuator, but where EXACTLY am i suppose to apply the white lithium?
it seems like the arms that rotate the mirror up/down and left/right are already in a rubber casing. should i take the actuator out to lube it up?
the lithium i purchased is in a tube, not a spray, so i dont want to just lube up everything.
thank you for your help,
carlos
it seems like the arms that rotate the mirror up/down and left/right are already in a rubber casing. should i take the actuator out to lube it up?
the lithium i purchased is in a tube, not a spray, so i dont want to just lube up everything.
thank you for your help,
carlos
#26
After breaking the actuator like I did, you know where to pry. I will try to explain. If you look on the outside edge of the round part of actuator you will notice 3(three) "tabs" (?) that are located at about 2 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock(look at diagram above). Those "tabs" lock (clip) in to the backside of the mirror itself. So the tip of your screwdriver needs to be against the back of the mirror under the tab your are trying to pry loose. I started with the one at 4 o'clock, 2 o'clock then 8 o'clock. You can push the mirror around if you like, I opted to do it by the switch. Make sure and take your time with the positioning of your light, my wife help hold light while I was looking for the point to put the tip of the screwdriver. Once you get it off unplug the two wires and then it will make sense. Just line the mirror up with the "tabs" and push it back on in center first then work your way out making sure the clip back in. I used white lithium grease to spray the ball part of the actuator behind the round part. All is well. I ordered a new actuator from the estore.honda.com for ~$33 and picked up at dealer. Not an expensive lesson learned. Good Luck
#28
10th Gear
Thanks for the detailed information on how not to break something I certainly would have broken. Before reading your reply I grabbed a can of WD40 and sprayed both mirrors until the stuff ran out the mirror housing. It took quite a while for the WD40 to finally drip out but the sqeeks are gone. My guess is that I'll end up doing what you did to fix the problem the right way.
WD-40 worked like a charm.
#29
Does the actuator have wing-like tabs on it?
I need to replace my mirror actuator but have noticed that one of two black wing-like tabs in the center of it (B) is broken off. Is that part of the actuator, or do I also need a different part? Thanks for helping me to figure this out.
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