Power Steering Fluid Change
#1
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Power Steering Fluid Change
Hi All,
I did a search but could not find anything, although I am almost certain I have seen it. Does anyone have a DIY on changing the power steering fluid on a 3GL TL?
Thanks
I did a search but could not find anything, although I am almost certain I have seen it. Does anyone have a DIY on changing the power steering fluid on a 3GL TL?
Thanks
#3
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
sorry to revive this thread, but is it saying to essentially let the pump drain the entire system (all 1.1 liters) and then you refill it once dry? this won't damage the pump, correct?
#4
reviving on a subject of interest, with actual valid questions, are encouraged!!
If you buy 3 qts you can do the procedure a few times to get it really clean.
Note the small hose you will need to go from the return line into the contaner for disposal,
similar to doing seafoam in that sense
Correct- use the engine driving the pump to empty -not only the res-,
but the entire contents of the steering rack-
thats where the crud all goes, so you want it pushed out and into the dump can
Helpful hint- place pieces of cardboard under the front tires before working.
That reduces surface friction so the tires turn easily, reducing overall strain on rack.
It will NOT hurt the system to run it this way- its not on the road, and its only a minute to empty it all out, then you shut off the engine- so its not pumping dry
Seems freaky but its the factory method- cant argue with them
DO keep checking the fluid level as it will trade fluid for air in the lower parts,
refill but do not overfill
When done, inspect for leaks and all things secured--
or there will be a huge hole in the res in a few minutes-
happened to a ziner recently (a shop actually did it!)
drive around block a few times making full turns and slow u turns to ensure no air bubbles remain...that burps them out for you
Then check level and if between lines- ready to go.
If too high use turkey baster to suck out excess
If too low- you can probably figure that one out!!!
If you buy 3 qts you can do the procedure a few times to get it really clean.
Note the small hose you will need to go from the return line into the contaner for disposal,
similar to doing seafoam in that sense
Correct- use the engine driving the pump to empty -not only the res-,
but the entire contents of the steering rack-
thats where the crud all goes, so you want it pushed out and into the dump can
Helpful hint- place pieces of cardboard under the front tires before working.
That reduces surface friction so the tires turn easily, reducing overall strain on rack.
It will NOT hurt the system to run it this way- its not on the road, and its only a minute to empty it all out, then you shut off the engine- so its not pumping dry
Seems freaky but its the factory method- cant argue with them
DO keep checking the fluid level as it will trade fluid for air in the lower parts,
refill but do not overfill
When done, inspect for leaks and all things secured--
or there will be a huge hole in the res in a few minutes-
happened to a ziner recently (a shop actually did it!)
drive around block a few times making full turns and slow u turns to ensure no air bubbles remain...that burps them out for you
Then check level and if between lines- ready to go.
If too high use turkey baster to suck out excess
If too low- you can probably figure that one out!!!
#5
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
I might do a DIY, so I essentially unplug the bottom tube from the reservoir, drain the reservoir, couple a tube to the bottom tube in the reservoir, start the engine, let the fluid in the system circulate & out, put front wheels on cardboard, turn lock to lock a few times with engine running, let it all drain, plug everything back in, refill reservoir with engine running, lock to lock again, go have beer?
#6
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
ugh, I'm the wrong guy to do a DIY on this one.
Make sure you have hose clamps, a properly sized extension hose, an empty milk jug, an old towel, someone to watch the system, a few bottles extra of new fluid, a turkey baster, etc.
Make sure you have hose clamps, a properly sized extension hose, an empty milk jug, an old towel, someone to watch the system, a few bottles extra of new fluid, a turkey baster, etc.
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#9
so that noise went away for you? just had some air trapped?
I wouldnt bother removing the fluid from the res, just let it all get pumped out
with the engine running, you could even add some fresh fluid as the res empties, so a cleaner chaser dose comes thru the system to flush the crud.
I wouldnt bother removing the fluid from the res, just let it all get pumped out
with the engine running, you could even add some fresh fluid as the res empties, so a cleaner chaser dose comes thru the system to flush the crud.
#10
srt- got the hose diameter size you used to the catch can, and the length?
#11
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
I used a 10' cheap garden ($3.88) hose I got at wal mart, approx 1" in diameter, and some thumb screwable clamps, worked perfectly. I cut probably a 4' section out of the hose and put one end in the milk jug and the other end on the tube. drained it asap.
#12
oh- the diagram appears to have a smaller diameter hose placed inside the return line
As long as it worked- thats all that matters.
As long as it worked- thats all that matters.
#13
Quiet, Rika Neenja!
yeah I tried that and didn't clamp it well enough or something and it blew out and exploded PS fluid all over everything. really sucked. I figured a much bigger hose would be way less likely to do that!
#14
ahhh, real life experience trumps engineering diagram
Doh!
Doh!
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