this started happening about a month ago on my 04 auto tl with 102k miles. never had this problem before and ive had the car since 25k miles.

when accelerating from a complete stop, the car does not go through the first gear rpm band smoothly. this causes the car to jerk forward pretty rough. all the other gears are fine. if i try to baby the pedal, the car really doesn't even start moving until it gets a little more gas then it jerks forward and accelerates like normal. no more smooth take-offs from a light. im almost forced to hit the gas pretty hard just to avoid the stutter/jerking and accelerate quickly in order to have a smooth take-off. any ideas?

also, if im driving around 50mph in 5th gear (rpms about 1500) the rpms tend to jump up and down by about +/- 200 causing the car the jerk forward and back every 5 seconds or so. happens around 70mph in 5th gear as well. any ideas on this one?

i changed the spark plugs 95k miles.
ive seafoamed the gas, intake, and engine oil 3 times since 70k miles.
3x3 tranny flush done somewhere around 87k miles
oil always changed on time (by MID) with mobile 1 5w-20 synthetic

 

no codes? no cel? when it jerks does the cel flash?

i have similar symptoms, its pretty much almost not driveable...i got ECM code, p0685 ECM power control circuit malfunction.

either my ECM needs to be updated/re-programed, or changed completely.

 

It's your accelerator pedal position sensor. Mine went out at around 80k. Exact same symptoms. Eventually it will throw a code as mine did. Dealer fixed under warranty.. I have seen more and more folks here having this issue, a search will reveal much.

 

Mine aint the TPS

 

i've had that issue before. either your transmission is starting to go (most likely not) or you simply need to reset the ecu. have you done any performance mods before? if you drive the car hard, the transmission tends to lose it's "smooth" shifting abilities.

 

I've heard this statement before. Is this a must at a certain mileage? It's sounding like the rest of the sensors that need replacing without CEL's.

 

no it shouldn't be.
i went through every relay in the car, tested every single one of them, i checked everything...last thing, i pulled out the ECM, took out the circuit board, looked for signs of water...im trying to tackle the prob to the core so if i take it to the dealer, im not gonna have to wait a month for them to locate the prob..i can just tell them, this is the prob, fucking fix it, no need to look for it!

i hate having to go there, cause i feel helpless, and im never in that situation when it comes to my car lol makes me wanna own a freaking honda diagnosis system myself, so i never have to step foot inside a dealer ever lol

 

no codes. no mods at all. i have reset the ecu and i didnt notice a difference

 

it could just be ur TPS going bad....honestly, a lot of things can cause similar symptoms...you can get a more of an accurate idea when you get a CEL code...btw when ignition is on...is the cel on? (just making sure it isn't burnt out lol) do this...reset the ECM, then start the car, dont touch nothing, Idle for 30 secs, shut it off....start it again, idle for another 30 secs and shut it off, and then turn on the ignition and wait 20 seconds...if CEL doesnt flash and go off after about 20 secs, you may need ur ECM updated/reprogrammed. if it does, then there's shit on the verge and acting up and soon you will get a cel when it gets worse, like for instance, a TPS will set off CEL, VSA, ABS, the whole nine.

btw, how are you resetting the ECM? if you do it by disconnecting the Battery, that's really not a true reset..that will clear the CEL, but code is still stored in the system. ECM will store the codes for a few cycles even after CEL is no longer on. an OBDII scanner would be ideal to clear the codes

 

im resetting the ecm by unplugging the battery cable. about 2 years ago, i was driving on the highway going wot in 3rd gear a few times and the cel was flashing then went off. i went to the dealer and they said i needed the computer to be updated but i needed a new battery. i bought my own battery a few weeks later but never had the software updated bc i forgot about it. i just remembered when u mentioned it. but since then, ive never had a flashing cel ever

btw, whats a tps?

 

well i see the tps is the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. anyone have a part number on this. after reading some other posts, some people had success with my similar problem by replacing this

 

37971-RBB-003 SENSOR ASSY., ACCELERATOR PEDAL 04 - 08 TL 122.59 from acuraoemparts.com

can anyone find a better price? i found this pic, but where is this? im confused lol

 

opel, my cel is working. when the ignition is on, the cel is on. i tried what you mentioned and the cel starts flashing and turns off after about 20 seconds. but honestly, i can recall the cel doing this for a long long time. for example, i would always sit in my car with it off but the ignition on and listen to the radio when i am waiting for my laundry and i would always see the cel flash and turn off

 

^^^thats normal

 

Nope. I ordered mine from Delray Acura for $133 including shipping. The dealer wanted $156.

The APP is located on the passenger side behind the strut tower brace on the firewall. Easy to change. I took me 10 mins only because I was cleaning around the area while the cover was off.

 

were u experiencing the same problems that i am? and did changing this sensor fix your problem?

 

The only symtoms I had was surging after shifting from 1st to 2nd and slow acceleration. Yes changing my IAT and APP sensors fixed my problem.

 

thanks. ill give it a try

 

is there a DIY for this switch replacement? i cant find anything

 

to the OP, disconnect your battery for about an hour, and then plug it back in. Then turn the car on, leave the a/c, radio, heater, etc off and let the car idle for 15 minutes. This is the idle relearn procedure and without doing it, there can be many of the symptoms you have.

 

i did disconnect the battery the other night, left it off for 10 minutes or so, hooked it back up, idled for maybe 2 min and then went for a 20 min drive. is this any different from what u mentioned? also, i turned on the ignition, pressed the gas to the floor for about 30 seconds then turned the car on. i remembered reading somewhere on here that this will reset everything as well

heres a DIY for the sensor in case anyone else is looking
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=app

and the procedures from the manual
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/acceleration-failure-while-driving-726039/

 

The p0685 code on my car is causing it to stall while I'm driving. Does anyone have this issue from this code?

 

Hey bro, I'm experiencing similar issues and my mechanic told me that I need to replace my tranny, even after mentioning the possibility of switching out the TPS sensor. The car only jerks from idle and it happens around 2k rpm. Is your problem resolved? If so I think I'll try that before decided to swap or my tranny...

 

EVERY problem is different.
You or someone will have to narrow down the problem...
if the mechanic narrowed it down to the tranny, then most likely it's the tranny...

you can and are allowed to get a 2nd opinion...go to another mechanic to help narrow down the problem even further

 

hey brother I have a question I have the same jerking transmission issue from 1st gear to 2nd gear shift and when pressing the gas gently the car jerk. My question is do you replaced the accelerator pedal sensor ? And does that fixed your transmission issue? Thank you.

 

Old thread, OP has not posted since 2012

 

you might want to change the pressure switches in the tranny, and then get fresh fluid in there

 

hey bro thank you for your help but I had changed the fluid 4x4 in the last 10k miles and I changed the second and third gear pressure switches and nothing has change. The last fluid changed was the last week.I only feel the jerk from first to second if I press gas gently in traffic from complete stop. Maybe I need to reflash the torque converter one more time the last time was back in 2012.

 

Last year when I needed to replace my Accelerator Pedal Sensor, I was experiencing ZERO jerks/bucking/stuttering. None. Car still drove very smoothly, the only symptoms were; 1) A CEL for the APS and 2) The engine felt like it had severely reduced power, like only 20-25% power.
So unless you're throwing a code for the APS, I highly doubt that's your problem.

 

I've only ever heard of people changing the pressure switches for 3rd and 4th...
don't think that would do anything for your 1 to 2 shift though.

No check engine lights? Is this trans related?

 

fuck it, try changing out the APP sensor

 

no check engine lights on wat so ever and I don’t know if it’s related to the tranny but I’ve heard a lot from other people about this issue maybe I just need the tcm reflash or transmission software update.

 

so for 9 years ship shape and then randomly the trans forgets it's tune?
sign of a dying battery perhaps?

 

Hmmm. Every time I get a dead cell in a battery wired things happen.

 

I got a new battery fews months ago. When this happened to you what do you do to fix it ? I means when your transmission jerks it’s because of a battery dying ?

 

We're trying to help you eliminate things as possibilities.

 

yes I appreciated it. But I think my issue is related to the sh-awd I just find out a code in the all wheel drive the code is a permanent DTC. Code is 77-1 and thats it no other code. I was googling but I can’t find much info about it. I will take the car to the dealer and I will update the result .

 

Hmm...I've heard things about that system. Best of luck and please do let us know.