no more smooth acceleration..car jerks forward pretty harshly
#1
no more smooth acceleration..car jerks forward pretty harshly
this started happening about a month ago on my 04 auto tl with 102k miles. never had this problem before and ive had the car since 25k miles.
when accelerating from a complete stop, the car does not go through the first gear rpm band smoothly. this causes the car to jerk forward pretty rough. all the other gears are fine. if i try to baby the pedal, the car really doesn't even start moving until it gets a little more gas then it jerks forward and accelerates like normal. no more smooth take-offs from a light. im almost forced to hit the gas pretty hard just to avoid the stutter/jerking and accelerate quickly in order to have a smooth take-off. any ideas?
also, if im driving around 50mph in 5th gear (rpms about 1500) the rpms tend to jump up and down by about +/- 200 causing the car the jerk forward and back every 5 seconds or so. happens around 70mph in 5th gear as well. any ideas on this one?
i changed the spark plugs 95k miles.
ive seafoamed the gas, intake, and engine oil 3 times since 70k miles.
3x3 tranny flush done somewhere around 87k miles
oil always changed on time (by MID) with mobile 1 5w-20 synthetic
when accelerating from a complete stop, the car does not go through the first gear rpm band smoothly. this causes the car to jerk forward pretty rough. all the other gears are fine. if i try to baby the pedal, the car really doesn't even start moving until it gets a little more gas then it jerks forward and accelerates like normal. no more smooth take-offs from a light. im almost forced to hit the gas pretty hard just to avoid the stutter/jerking and accelerate quickly in order to have a smooth take-off. any ideas?
also, if im driving around 50mph in 5th gear (rpms about 1500) the rpms tend to jump up and down by about +/- 200 causing the car the jerk forward and back every 5 seconds or so. happens around 70mph in 5th gear as well. any ideas on this one?
i changed the spark plugs 95k miles.
ive seafoamed the gas, intake, and engine oil 3 times since 70k miles.
3x3 tranny flush done somewhere around 87k miles
oil always changed on time (by MID) with mobile 1 5w-20 synthetic
#2
Three Wheelin'
no codes? no cel? when it jerks does the cel flash?
i have similar symptoms, its pretty much almost not driveable...i got ECM code, p0685 ECM power control circuit malfunction.
either my ECM needs to be updated/re-programed, or changed completely.
i have similar symptoms, its pretty much almost not driveable...i got ECM code, p0685 ECM power control circuit malfunction.
either my ECM needs to be updated/re-programed, or changed completely.
#3
It's your accelerator pedal position sensor. Mine went out at around 80k. Exact same symptoms. Eventually it will throw a code as mine did. Dealer fixed under warranty.. I have seen more and more folks here having this issue, a search will reveal much.
#5
Safety Car
i've had that issue before. either your transmission is starting to go (most likely not) or you simply need to reset the ecu. have you done any performance mods before? if you drive the car hard, the transmission tends to lose it's "smooth" shifting abilities.
#7
Three Wheelin'
i went through every relay in the car, tested every single one of them, i checked everything...last thing, i pulled out the ECM, took out the circuit board, looked for signs of water...im trying to tackle the prob to the core so if i take it to the dealer, im not gonna have to wait a month for them to locate the prob..i can just tell them, this is the prob, fucking fix it, no need to look for it!
i hate having to go there, cause i feel helpless, and im never in that situation when it comes to my car lol makes me wanna own a freaking honda diagnosis system myself, so i never have to step foot inside a dealer ever lol
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#9
Three Wheelin'
it could just be ur TPS going bad....honestly, a lot of things can cause similar symptoms...you can get a more of an accurate idea when you get a CEL code...btw when ignition is on...is the cel on? (just making sure it isn't burnt out lol) do this...reset the ECM, then start the car, dont touch nothing, Idle for 30 secs, shut it off....start it again, idle for another 30 secs and shut it off, and then turn on the ignition and wait 20 seconds...if CEL doesnt flash and go off after about 20 secs, you may need ur ECM updated/reprogrammed. if it does, then there's shit on the verge and acting up and soon you will get a cel when it gets worse, like for instance, a TPS will set off CEL, VSA, ABS, the whole nine.
btw, how are you resetting the ECM? if you do it by disconnecting the Battery, that's really not a true reset..that will clear the CEL, but code is still stored in the system. ECM will store the codes for a few cycles even after CEL is no longer on. an OBDII scanner would be ideal to clear the codes
btw, how are you resetting the ECM? if you do it by disconnecting the Battery, that's really not a true reset..that will clear the CEL, but code is still stored in the system. ECM will store the codes for a few cycles even after CEL is no longer on. an OBDII scanner would be ideal to clear the codes
#10
it could just be ur TPS going bad....honestly, a lot of things can cause similar symptoms...you can get a more of an accurate idea when you get a CEL code...btw when ignition is on...is the cel on? (just making sure it isn't burnt out lol) do this...reset the ECM, then start the car, dont touch nothing, Idle for 30 secs, shut it off....start it again, idle for another 30 secs and shut it off, and then turn on the ignition and wait 20 seconds...if CEL doesnt flash and go off after about 20 secs, you may need ur ECM updated/reprogrammed. if it does, then there's shit on the verge and acting up and soon you will get a cel when it gets worse, like for instance, a TPS will set off CEL, VSA, ABS, the whole nine.
btw, how are you resetting the ECM? if you do it by disconnecting the Battery, that's really not a true reset..that will clear the CEL, but code is still stored in the system. ECM will store the codes for a few cycles even after CEL is no longer on. an OBDII scanner would be ideal to clear the codes
btw, how are you resetting the ECM? if you do it by disconnecting the Battery, that's really not a true reset..that will clear the CEL, but code is still stored in the system. ECM will store the codes for a few cycles even after CEL is no longer on. an OBDII scanner would be ideal to clear the codes
btw, whats a tps?
#13
opel, my cel is working. when the ignition is on, the cel is on. i tried what you mentioned and the cel starts flashing and turns off after about 20 seconds. but honestly, i can recall the cel doing this for a long long time. for example, i would always sit in my car with it off but the ignition on and listen to the radio when i am waiting for my laundry and i would always see the cel flash and turn off
#15
Green Machine
iTrader: (3)
The APP is located on the passenger side behind the strut tower brace on the firewall. Easy to change. I took me 10 mins only because I was cleaning around the area while the cover was off.
#16
Nope. I ordered mine from Delray Acura for $133 including shipping. The dealer wanted $156.
The APP is located on the passenger side behind the strut tower brace on the firewall. Easy to change. I took me 10 mins only because I was cleaning around the area while the cover was off.
The APP is located on the passenger side behind the strut tower brace on the firewall. Easy to change. I took me 10 mins only because I was cleaning around the area while the cover was off.
#20
Senior Moderator
to the OP, disconnect your battery for about an hour, and then plug it back in. Then turn the car on, leave the a/c, radio, heater, etc off and let the car idle for 15 minutes. This is the idle relearn procedure and without doing it, there can be many of the symptoms you have.
#21
to the OP, disconnect your battery for about an hour, and then plug it back in. Then turn the car on, leave the a/c, radio, heater, etc off and let the car idle for 15 minutes. This is the idle relearn procedure and without doing it, there can be many of the symptoms you have.
heres a DIY for the sensor in case anyone else is looking
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=app
and the procedures from the manual
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/acceleration-failure-while-driving-726039/
Last edited by libert69; 09-21-2009 at 03:31 AM.
#23
Did replacing the sensor work?
i did disconnect the battery the other night, left it off for 10 minutes or so, hooked it back up, idled for maybe 2 min and then went for a 20 min drive. is this any different from what u mentioned? also, i turned on the ignition, pressed the gas to the floor for about 30 seconds then turned the car on. i remembered reading somewhere on here that this will reset everything as well
heres a DIY for the sensor in case anyone else is looking
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=app
and the procedures from the manual
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726039
heres a DIY for the sensor in case anyone else is looking
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=app
and the procedures from the manual
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726039
#24
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Hey bro, I'm experiencing similar issues and my mechanic told me that I need to replace my tranny, even after mentioning the possibility of switching out the TPS sensor. The car only jerks from idle and it happens around 2k rpm. Is your problem resolved? If so I think I'll try that before decided to swap or my tranny...
You or someone will have to narrow down the problem...
if the mechanic narrowed it down to the tranny, then most likely it's the tranny...
you can and are allowed to get a 2nd opinion...go to another mechanic to help narrow down the problem even further
#25
this started happening about a month ago on my 04 auto tl with 102k miles. never had this problem before and ive had the car since 25k miles.
when accelerating from a complete stop, the car does not go through the first gear rpm band smoothly. this causes the car to jerk forward pretty rough. all the other gears are fine. if i try to baby the pedal, the car really doesn't even start moving until it gets a little more gas then it jerks forward and accelerates like normal. no more smooth take-offs from a light. im almost forced to hit the gas pretty hard just to avoid the stutter/jerking and accelerate quickly in order to have a smooth take-off. any ideas?
also, if im driving around 50mph in 5th gear (rpms about 1500) the rpms tend to jump up and down by about +/- 200 causing the car the jerk forward and back every 5 seconds or so. happens around 70mph in 5th gear as well. any ideas on this one?
i changed the spark plugs 95k miles.
ive seafoamed the gas, intake, and engine oil 3 times since 70k miles.
3x3 tranny flush done somewhere around 87k miles
oil always changed on time (by MID) with mobile 1 5w-20 synthetic
when accelerating from a complete stop, the car does not go through the first gear rpm band smoothly. this causes the car to jerk forward pretty rough. all the other gears are fine. if i try to baby the pedal, the car really doesn't even start moving until it gets a little more gas then it jerks forward and accelerates like normal. no more smooth take-offs from a light. im almost forced to hit the gas pretty hard just to avoid the stutter/jerking and accelerate quickly in order to have a smooth take-off. any ideas?
also, if im driving around 50mph in 5th gear (rpms about 1500) the rpms tend to jump up and down by about +/- 200 causing the car the jerk forward and back every 5 seconds or so. happens around 70mph in 5th gear as well. any ideas on this one?
i changed the spark plugs 95k miles.
ive seafoamed the gas, intake, and engine oil 3 times since 70k miles.
3x3 tranny flush done somewhere around 87k miles
oil always changed on time (by MID) with mobile 1 5w-20 synthetic
#26
Suzuka Master
Old thread, OP has not posted since 2012
#27
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
hey brother I have a question I have the same jerking transmission issue from 1st gear to 2nd gear shift and when pressing the gas gently the car jerk. My question is do you replaced the accelerator pedal sensor ? And does that fixed your transmission issue? Thank you.
#28
hey bro thank you for your help but I had changed the fluid 4x4 in the last 10k miles and I changed the second and third gear pressure switches and nothing has change. The last fluid changed was the last week.I only feel the jerk from first to second if I press gas gently in traffic from complete stop. Maybe I need to reflash the torque converter one more time the last time was back in 2012.
#29
hey brother I have a question I have the same jerking transmission issue from 1st gear to 2nd gear shift and when pressing the gas gently the car jerk. My question is do you replaced the accelerator pedal sensor ? And does that fixed your transmission issue? Thank you.
Last year when I needed to replace my Accelerator Pedal Sensor, I was experiencing ZERO jerks/bucking/stuttering. None. Car still drove very smoothly, the only symptoms were; 1) A CEL for the APS and 2) The engine felt like it had severely reduced power, like only 20-25% power.
So unless you're throwing a code for the APS, I highly doubt that's your problem.
The following 2 users liked this post by twokexlv6coupe:
Hansell M Disla (08-26-2021),
rockstar143 (08-26-2021)
#32
no check engine lights on wat so ever and I don’t know if it’s related to the tranny but I’ve heard a lot from other people about this issue maybe I just need the tcm reflash or transmission software update.
The following users liked this post:
Midnight Mystery (08-28-2021)
#35
#37
yes I appreciated it. But I think my issue is related to the sh-awd I just find out a code in the all wheel drive the code is a permanent DTC. Code is 77-1 and thats it no other code. I was googling but I can’t find much info about it. I will take the car to the dealer and I will update the result .
The following users liked this post:
Hansell M Disla (08-30-2021)
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