AfgVetTL

Hey there just swapped front pads and rotors. Rotors are cross drilled and slotted replacements from Powerstop, Amazon sent pads for 5AT instead of the 6MT kit I ordered. Bitching complete... I went to Advanced and grabbed the wearever platinums. Lo and behold they fit, sorta. The new pads are right up againdt the rotors, I figured that could be expected with a higher performance rotor and longer life pads (they seem a bit thicker than new OE pads) Now after a couple days of drivimg and a proper seat and bed they are still touching the rotor AND grabbing enough to bog the car. Swapping back to stock is not an option at this point as the OE pads/rotors are horrendously worn out (rotor is grooved inside pass side pad worn to the pad screws). I also get a decent amount of wobbling/vibration when braking +60 mph. I should hope the damn rotor isnt warpped with less than 1000 mi in the middle of summer. I love this car, and cringe when its suck pleeeeeease help help help.
AfgVetTL
Kenny

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Were the rotors for the Brembo brakes?
The base is 1.1" thick compared to .98" Brembo, but the Brembo's are larger in diameter 12.2"/11.8"

YeuEmMaiMai

if all your parts match, re-lubricate your caliper pins and bleed out your calipers.

AfgVetTL

The rotors are for Brembo brakes, Ill chalk the pad/rotor fitment up to loose QC from Powerstop.

I did not lube the caliper pins. (Ill assume the pins youre refering to are the ones secureing the pad.) Dry lube? Petrolube? Ill get it done just not sure what to use.
Also the wobbling as stopped for the time being, could possibly be that Ive never had to do brakes as Im constantly trading out cash cars. Got a good deal on this TL from a used car dealer. Has needed a little work but nothing major. My local Honda/Acura dealer sold the car org. And has done all the maintenance. Strangely when the prev owner had the 105k service and later the Timing belt replacr he opted out of his brakes being serviced. Seems strange but oh well.
Thanks for the replies and any other suggestions are welcome.
AfgVetTL
Kenny

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

All 4 pistons move inward easily and all the way in?
New pad thickness should be .35-.39".

AfgVetTL

Yes and yes. I think, (not a shop tech or machining guy, so I think) its just breaking in. The rotors from Powerstop were a bit thicker than what I put on(again blaming poorish quality control on their part), pads match your specs to the T. Wobble is slowly going away each day. Though my passenger side caliper is more than likely on its last few thousand miles. Uneven pad wear, not drastic, but noticable. Waiting on funds, advisable to replace both or just the bad one?

nfnsquared

Should be simple enough to put a micrometer or tape measure across one of the new rotors and measure it....

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

What makes you believe the caliper is on its way out?
Normally with 4 piston calipers the lower pistons have a tendency to bind first as condensation resides in the lower part of the caliper and attaches the bores. If one is bad, the other should be examined carefully. All 4 pistons should be able to be pushed in easily. Actually to rebuild the front 4 piston calipers is quite easy, although time consuming, but quite inexpensive, $15-$30 total.

AfgVetTL

Okay, they went in real easy. This is my DD and working 72 hrs a week at night doesnt leave much caliper rebuilding time. Kids and such... Replacing the calipers is a bite in the wallet but a feasible one, and a relatively simple swap.

As of this morning all the 'wobbling' is gone. Braking from 60++ is much better than what I had originally, there is some noise, but normal and not terrible. In all not too shabby for 4 rotors and pads for less than $300.

Turbonut, thanks for clearing the caliper stuff up and the rest of your input. This is a good community.
AfgVetTL
Kenny

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If the caliper pistons went in easily, no leaks, sounds like you're good to go so save your money. If you google Power Stop you'll find quite a few that with the piston(s) all the way in couldn't get the pads over the rotors.
Happened to me many years ago with the rear brakes on a Vette I was working on, pads too thick. Took care of it quickly by hitting the pads with a very rough disc grinder.

AfgVetTL

Did the same yesterday, hell, sub par dimensions or not, these pads n rotors saved my son and I's life today. Jackass tried to take us out due to not paying attention. Noise be damned drilled and slotted rotors+ new pads did the job well.
Have the rears waiting in the garage, tomorrows the off day work day, haha.
Thanks for all the input and advice, being a noob with mechanical work trust issues just doesnt make one comfy when the car make goofy noises hahaha.
AfgVetTL
Kenny