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Need help ASAP to remove battery plate tray to replace starter
Hey guys I need some help and searched far and wide. I removed the 4 bolts on the corner but the plate won't come off something is still holding it down and I don't know where. I'm doing this to make space to replace my starter. Appreciate the help.
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I replaced my starter, there's a bolt holding the tray down below, you need a long extension (10"+) to reach it. It's kinda ackward and putting that bolt back is also tricky.
yea its tricky dude, its the bolts on the bottom. the bolts are horizontal going into the frame pointing to the right. most of them are within reach, but there is one that is WAYYY in the back that you will need the right extention and patience.
Thanks for sharing, this part of the process took me hours and I figured it out after I used my phone as a video camera to investigate the area, almost gave up. I was cursing so much at the tray! Will post some pics tomorrow after work.
yea its tricky dude, its the bolts on the bottom. the bolts are horizontal going into the frame pointing to the right. most of them are within reach, but there is one that is WAYYY in the back that you will need the right extention and patience.
Agreed on the tricky part. I was lucky enough to be able to reach beneath the tray without an extension and do it blindly - with the help of you locating it for me - you just have to feel around for it.
Having the same problem with my starter right now. Debating on where to get the replacement, but most likely I'm going to stick with OEM ($226-pretty cheap with the core trade in) for now since I haven't found any sparkling reviews about Autozone (duralast) or Checkers (Ultima) or Napa's (AC/Delco). Any thoughts on this? Hope I can get past this damn bolt later since you've all posted some pics lol
That is a good price for an oem! I ended up getting the duralast brand from autozone for $130 with tax and core exchange. Has a lifetime warranty and sounds a lil cooler at startup. Should last 4-5yrs according to the autozone rep, I'll probably get a new car by that time frame. After the 2nd time it only took me an hr and 10 mins to replace, pretty fun swap. Keep in mind removing the battery tray is the most time consuming part of the job. I'll post a pic after work tonight.
Shame on me for cheaping out but I found a starter at the wreckers for $25 bucks while I get the other one rebuilt. It isn't pretty but the car is running! Something to think about! I'm all about saving the dolla dolla bill yo.
ok been having a starting problem for a few weeks now ever since i put in a red top optima battery.occasionally i would go to start the car and it would just click like a bad battery so immediately i went to the positive and negative terminals and check the tightness of each and found the negative a tad bit loose. the negative cable was as tight as it was going to get so i put cooper wire in it to take up some space so it will get tight again(also did it to the positive cable as well)and it fired right up.problem solved right,not. occasionally i would still get the click but would start on the second turn of the key. took it to a buddy of mine that is a tech for vw and he found the positive cable to the starter a tad bit loose so he tightened it problem solve right,not that lasted for about a week and then i would go to start the car and it would click then start right up.the wife says the car doesnt like me only her because it always works for her,right,not. well yesterday afternoon the car finally wouold not start anymore no matter how many times you would play with the key and she was stuck in my vw buddies drive way. when he got home he jump the starter straight from the battery and he heard the solenoid but the bendix part was not engaging so he told me that my starter was bad.need less to say i was on this thread a few days before reading to pass the time at work and everybody was like the battery box and lower bolt is a pain in the a$$ so i was a little bit worried come time to do the replacement. never fear the battery box was not that hard at all but that lower bolt was a bi*ch my vw buddy came over and had a hard time using a cheater bar (breaker bar on top of ratchet)to break the lower bolt loose he said that was the tightest starter bolt he has ever had to undo that wasnt rusted(27 years as a vw tech). but all in all it wasnt that bad to do did it in my garage no air tools no lift about 90 mins including letting the car cool down.thanks for all the info couldnt have dont it so easely with out ACURAZINE,and the people who make up the forum
Hate to bring this back up, but i'm still having a lot of trouble with the 2 bolts on the bottom. I have removed the top of the black hose that sits over the one closest to the edge of the car. I can see it but even with a socket extension can't get a clear path to it. I can't even see the other one.
Those drawings from Bearcat94's post are really helpful.
I changed the starter on a friends 2004 TL over the weekend and it went pretty well. I only wish I did a little more searching here to find those drawings ahead of time.
The lower bolt on the left on the battery platform is actually a bit easier because although you can't see it, you can touch it. This makes it a lot easier to get back in. The lower bolt on the right needs a wobble extension because a tube is slightly in the way for a straight shot. Someone holding a light is helpful.
The two bolts on the starter are on tight so you'll need a good size breaker bar. I didn't, but it would probably be a good idea to ASAP hit the bolts with penetrant and let it soak a bit before breaking. When a bolt is this tight, every little bit helps. And when you are bolting it back on to the bell housing, a torque wrench is essential. The paperwork that came with the PepBoys starter said 66-67 ft-lbs.
Hey gang. Sorry to hear about all your trouble. best way to remove the stubborn starter is to actually reach through the wheel well with long extension and possibly a wobble 17mm socket and use a strong breaker bar for thE bottom bolt. YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY. use 1/2 inch sockets and extentions cuz theyre the strongest. Be careful reaching through front of transmission cuz there are some sensors and connectors you don't want to damage.
To make job easier use jack and lift car on driver front and turn wheel all the way to the left. This should give you plenty of room to work. and just bent fender liner down or remove clips with flat head or clip popper.
07 and 08 starters bolts are from the top so they are rediculous easy. However 04 to 06 require some force..
Last edited by invalidalias; 07-23-2012 at 07:35 PM.
I had to take my battery tray out to put in clutch hard lines. While it was out I took a pair of side cutters and cut out the lower portion of the mounting holes. Then when you put it back together you can get the bolts started in the holes and slide the tray over them. In the future you will only have to loosen the bolts and not take them all the way out.
Went to start the car this morning, all lights on and I just hear one click.
Battery tested good. So I took my breaker bar and hit the big circular part of the starter ( not the solenoid) and viola, vehicle started.
PRoblem was starter. Took about 10 minutes to unbolt and remove starter. Yet took like 30 minutes to remove the battery tray cause of that stupid bolt.
car is an 06 w/ 150k miles w/ original starter.
Picked up an oem one from Honda for 285 including core charge.
Hey gang. Sorry to hear about all your trouble. best way to remove the stubborn starter is to actually reach through the wheel well with long extension and possibly a wobble 17mm socket and use a strong breaker bar for thE bottom bolt. YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY. use 1/2 inch sockets and extentions cuz theyre the strongest. Be careful reaching through front of transmission cuz there are some sensors and connectors you don't want to damage.
To make job easier use jack and lift car on driver front and turn wheel all the way to the left. This should give you plenty of room to work. and just bent fender liner down or remove clips with flat head or clip popper.
07 and 08 starters bolts are from the top so they are rediculous easy. However 04 to 06 require some force..
Have you done it this way? Or are you saying that it is possible? Have any of you guys done it this way? Thanks..
Have you done it this way? Or are you saying that it is possible? Have any of you guys done it this way? Thanks..
In case anyone was curious..
The torque required to remove the starter screws from the wheel well is just too much. Besides, the risk of breaking a transmission sensor is just too high. I ended up doing it the way everyone else recommends, through the top by removing the battery. I also removed the top radiator hoses to make more room.
Even though I sprayed the starter screws with lubricant and let them sit overnight, they were on so damn tight that it was ridiculous.
I also lol'd when I saw the screw that is hardest to get to under the battery tray. I mean, WHY???
The torque required to remove the starter screws from the wheel well is just too much. Besides, the risk of breaking a transmission sensor is just too high. I ended up doing it the way everyone else recommends, through the top by removing the battery. I also removed the top radiator hoses to make more room.
Even though I sprayed the starter screws with lubricant and let them sit overnight, they were on so damn tight that it was ridiculous.
I also lol'd when I saw the screw that is hardest to get to under the battery tray. I mean, WHY???
Just curious: When you tried the wheel well method, did you use an impact wrench?
Just curious: When you tried the wheel well method, did you use an impact wrench?
I did, but the bolts were on so tight that it wasn't loosening at all and the impact wrench started letting off smoke.
I guess maybe with a more powerful impact wrench it might have worked.
Still, one slip up and you break the transmission sensors.
I ended up using a breaker bar from up top.
And a previous poster said to try and feel for the bolt. That worked perfectly.
Also, take out the 3 inch pipe/tube in front of the battery. Remove the deflector plate by pulling out the clips. The pull the tube out by pulling it straight up.
The other suggestion of cutting out the holes was great. Quickly used saws-all and a metal blade in the vice. Great suggestion. Simple to put back in.
"While it was out I took a pair of side cutters and cut out the lower portion of the mounting holes. Then when you put it back together you can get the bolts started in the holes and slide the tray over them. In the future you will only have to loosen the bolts and not take them all the way out."
See red lines in the picture above or here it is attached.
[QUOTE=VelfarreClubber;13083333]Hey guys I need some help and searched far and wide. I removed the 4 bolts on the corner but the plate won't come off something is still holding it down and I don't know where. I'm doing this to make space to replace my starter. Appreciate the help.
For those who are still driving these older gems, my son loves his '04 but a car that age occasionally needs some work. Went to a friends house last night and when he went to leave the starter had given up. I found a YouTube video from "carsntoys.net" that was almost perfect. If u find yourself needing to change that starter, the only thing he left out was that you need to remove the black tube in front of battery tray to access the front bottom bolt. And notice that he uses a ratchet wrench. Makes it look much easier than the socket and extension, although that works well whe u locate the bolt.
07-11-2011, 10:32 PM
Need help ASAP to remove battery plate tray to replace starter
- you just have to feel around for it.
Starter disconnect
