Changing coolant
02-05-2009, 08:08 AM
#3
Man of God.....
What does "The Book" say? The manual...
I wouldn't have waited so long! Also, I would use a top grade anti-freeze. I used "The Best" AMSOIL!! It's a new product for them, so it must be "The Best! Right?
I would compare the different ones out there. It is important.
I also used Redline's Water Wetter. It give more heat transfer by making better contact with the surface of the metal. Do some research!
Remember search is your friend!
I wouldn't have waited so long! Also, I would use a top grade anti-freeze. I used "The Best" AMSOIL!! It's a new product for them, so it must be "The Best! Right?
I would compare the different ones out there. It is important.
I also used Redline's Water Wetter. It give more heat transfer by making better contact with the surface of the metal. Do some research!
Remember search is your friend!
02-05-2009, 09:49 AM
#4
its like 10 year/100k mile coolant....check the service schedual in the back of your owners manual....have it tested or buy one and check to see that it is still in range, but i wouldnt mess with it....
now on the other hand, you may consider changing your transmission and brake fluid.....
now on the other hand, you may consider changing your transmission and brake fluid.....
02-06-2009, 11:00 AM
#6
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Thanks. My tl is a 6 speed. Should i consider changing the gear oil. The shifting is flawless. I did replace brake fluid after 3 years. On another subject, i noticed that you have a type s. Have you test driven the new tl & i was wondering how they compare. Thanks again.
02-06-2009, 11:26 AM
#7
change the brake fluid every year starting at year 3 per the book (thats the start of year 3)- its critical! then every year afterwards forever- your calipers, master cylinder and abs controller will thank you
Wont hurt to change M/T fluid every year or 2 depending on miles, and if driven thru large water puddles in rainstorms- water gets in the overflow vent and kills the fluid- change it now!
Coolant is not `color based` on abilty to function
If its BROWN you have a blown head gasket!!!!
5 years is what coolant is designed to last, look in the owner book and the product label.
The special additives break down and the coolant goes acidic PH in an aluminum environment~ bad news
A 2-3$ tester from parts store will tell you the exact condition of the coolant- its cooling capacity and antifreeze protection
You dont NEED Redline water wetter in a TL- the thing already runs perfect just below halfway.
If you were not runnig any coolant-using water only (as in race car) then water wetter is the stuff~ but our car likes to run the temp it does, dont lower it
See owner book for coolant change DIY, its easy to change the coolant, make sure you do the engine block drain too, get it all out of the engine and radiator so you start fresh.
Use honda 50/50 premix fluid or a name brand that states `approved for acura` on its label.
that 50-50 coolant/distilled water mix is important and will provide freeze protection for all but far north canuks,,, who run it stronger in winter
Wont hurt to change M/T fluid every year or 2 depending on miles, and if driven thru large water puddles in rainstorms- water gets in the overflow vent and kills the fluid- change it now!
Coolant is not `color based` on abilty to function
If its BROWN you have a blown head gasket!!!!
5 years is what coolant is designed to last, look in the owner book and the product label.
The special additives break down and the coolant goes acidic PH in an aluminum environment~ bad news
A 2-3$ tester from parts store will tell you the exact condition of the coolant- its cooling capacity and antifreeze protection
You dont NEED Redline water wetter in a TL- the thing already runs perfect just below halfway.
If you were not runnig any coolant-using water only (as in race car) then water wetter is the stuff~ but our car likes to run the temp it does, dont lower it
See owner book for coolant change DIY, its easy to change the coolant, make sure you do the engine block drain too, get it all out of the engine and radiator so you start fresh.
Use honda 50/50 premix fluid or a name brand that states `approved for acura` on its label.
that 50-50 coolant/distilled water mix is important and will provide freeze protection for all but far north canuks,,, who run it stronger in winter
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02-06-2009, 03:13 PM
#8
Man of God.....
02-06-2009, 05:20 PM
#9
lower coefficient of drag of water thru the aluminum??
I just know at the track all the bikes run it because they are not allowed coolant and it does have some properties-- that when used alone with water- its better with high temp control than 50/50 or 50/50 with wetter..there is a chart about it.
I am not suggesting anyone run water and wetter only- not on the street
I just know at the track all the bikes run it because they are not allowed coolant and it does have some properties-- that when used alone with water- its better with high temp control than 50/50 or 50/50 with wetter..there is a chart about it.
I am not suggesting anyone run water and wetter only- not on the street
04-22-2009, 04:31 PM
#10
Senior Moderator
See owner book for coolant change DIY, its easy to change the coolant, make sure you do the engine block drain too, get it all out of the engine and radiator so you start fresh.
Use honda 50/50 premix fluid or a name brand that states `approved for acura` on its label.
that 50-50 coolant/distilled water mix is important and will provide freeze protection for all but far north canuks,,, who run it stronger in winter
Use honda 50/50 premix fluid or a name brand that states `approved for acura` on its label.
that 50-50 coolant/distilled water mix is important and will provide freeze protection for all but far north canuks,,, who run it stronger in winter
I declined.
They said all they do is change the radiator... one gallon. They then run the car up to operating temperature, drain again and add another gallon. They seem to think that's good enough.
However, I have already put Prestone in using this technique and would like to get it all out before adding the Honda coolant.
If, after I drain the radiator, I briefly run the car, do you think the water from the block will go to the radiator??
Or, I can keep flushing with water until the Prestone is nil. But, I will still be leaving the water in the block if I can't drain it.
08-23-2009, 06:24 PM
#12
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Easy to say! Have you tried getting to the block drain bolt? I gave up and took it to the dealer. THEY didn't even know where to look for it. When I showed them where it was, they said they couldn't get at from under and would have go in from the top, removing all my engine covers and the strut brace.
I declined.
They said all they do is change the radiator... one gallon. They then run the car up to operating temperature, drain again and add another gallon. They seem to think that's good enough.
However, I have already put Prestone in using this technique and would like to get it all out before adding the Honda coolant.
If, after I drain the radiator, I briefly run the car, do you think the water from the block will go to the radiator??
Or, I can keep flushing with water until the Prestone is nil. But, I will still be leaving the water in the block if I can't drain it.
I declined.
They said all they do is change the radiator... one gallon. They then run the car up to operating temperature, drain again and add another gallon. They seem to think that's good enough.
However, I have already put Prestone in using this technique and would like to get it all out before adding the Honda coolant.
If, after I drain the radiator, I briefly run the car, do you think the water from the block will go to the radiator??
Or, I can keep flushing with water until the Prestone is nil. But, I will still be leaving the water in the block if I can't drain it.
.. 3x3 for Coolant?.. 
..to Sea Dog.. .search the garage.. I think Xpditor has his own thread on the topic as well.
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