When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It was time to replace my lower control arm bushing and I found the axle nut to be very difficult to remove.
The axle nut on my 2004 TL took a 36mm socket. Yes, I did bend the retaining tab out on the axle nut before I started trying to drive it out.
I had to thoroughly heat the nut (to over 400 degrees according to my IR thermometer) using MAP gas, then bounce on the end of my 24 inch breaker bar several times to break it loose; I weigh 175 lbs.
24 Inch breaker bar and 36mm impact socket.
Propane didn't get hot enough.
Screwdriver in the rotor vanes keep the hub from spinning while I work on the axle nut.
Jack stand to help keep the socket straight, so all the energy goes counter-clockwise.
I had a mechanic neighbor to tackle the job of replacing the LCA compliance bushing . . . he released the axle nut without any jack stand (for resting the ratchet) or heat, liquid wrench . . . juts 25" breaker bar, by turning up not standing on the breaker bar. He's only 155-160 lbs at most, rather skinny built, he's got long skinny fingers as well.
But he marred edge of wheel well, destryed left side ball joint boot, still unable to remove the ball joint.
In the future, if you are having difficulties getting the axle nut off, it may be best to remove the center cap from the wheel and try and break the nut while the car is resting on the ground. I knew this could be an issue for me when replacing the axles, so I bought a Kobalt battery powered impact that is rated for 700 ft/lbs. It took the nut off in 2 seconds.
Good work doing the bushings yourself! I paid a shop to do them and I regret paying the money when I could have done it myself.
Doing the driver's side was less painful because I didn't need to replace the ball joint on this side. I pressed mine out through the top of the control arm.
I didn't see any markings on the LCA indicating proper rotational orientation of the new bushing so I looked around YouTube till I found footage of someone who also did this project. I think I may have installed this new bushing upside down. After looking over my pictures, I noticed the 'flappy' portion of bushing material was on top of the old bushing, and I inadvertantly installed the new one in the opposite orientation. Hopefully it won't matter. I really don't feel like taking this stuff apart again.
Now that this is all fixed, I'm getting my alignment checked since I'm sure the camber has changed significanty.
Torque specs for re-assembly:
Tool for pressing the bushing.
I store the bolts here so they're within reach, but unlikely to roll away.
I know it says "No Impact" but I got it loose enough doing it manually that I think it'll be alright now.
Honda part#: 51394-SEP-A01
Upside down?
Looks like one of my subframe bolts is missing. That's the fault of the garage that installed my transmission.
The brakes are noticeably more responsive now with fresh bushings.
Unfortunately I did indeed install the bushings upside down. That's what I get for not looking carefully at how the old ones were installed before I pressed them out. Though I didn't notice any trouble with the way the car drives, I decided to play it safe and redo the install, this time with the bushings installed in the proper orientation.
I believe this is how they should look on the driver's side:
Someone's going to have to explain to me how new bushings could possibly be responsible for "more responsive brakes"....
Perhaps I should have said 'The car stops better.'
To address your misunderstanding, my best guess is:
The old bushings had more 'give' in them and compressed a bit as the brakes fought the momentum of the car.
Just got done with this job, amongst others. Bushings are in. That tool is a lifesaver. I pulled the axle nut on the drivers side and noticed it didnt move a bit during the job. Didnt pull it on the passenger side. Took a total of an hour to do. Cant wait to get back on the road. Thanks for the writeup.
Hi, I'm doing this job now on my 2004 Acura TL and I can't seem to pull the Lower control Arm out enough to get a proper top and bottom access to reinstall the new Compliance Bushings. All three of those bolts are removed as you have shown but I can't get the Compliance bushing side of the arm to pull out and rest against the frame mounting flange. I feel like I have to take the whole arm off now. And on top of that, these new Honda bushings were milled by a monkey. Anyone else have issues with their new bushings from Honda? They are not flat (evenly ground) and the starter edge is ground by hand after a 6-pack and is all over the place. When trying to start pushing the bearing in it is cocking to one side. I'm using a 2-1/8" and 3-1/2" sockets with a 9" grade 5 bolt and nut like some other posters have used. Maybe this setup is OK for removing the bushings but getting them squared up is a different story.
09-06-2017, 08:45 AM
