NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

The only time I have ever had to replace a clutch was because the pilot bearing went bad, and the clutch was still good. So I have no real experience knowing how to determine if my clutch is going bad. That said....Here is why I think it is starting to go.

This problem started last month. The situation is I downshift to pass a car(rpms drop normal) and I speed up to redline. Then I upshift to the next gear, usually 4th. Here is the problem. Once I shift the rpms hang a little and slowly lower to the correct rpm. I watched it. Redline>>shift>>rpms slowly drop and the car doesn't seem to accelerate much>>it gets within a couple hundred rpm of the target and then drops fast to the correct rpm>>then the car accelerates normally.

Is this a first sign that my clutch is starting to go? My car has 73k miles and I think this is still the original clutch. Also about a month ago I had a dyno done. The car peaked at 205hp which is kinda low for the TL. Could it be the clutch that caused the low hp. It would mean to suggest that my clutch is starting to lose clamping pressure at high rpms. What do you think?

Jerry944T

Your clutch is going as you thought. Usually you will notice it first in the higher gears.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I guess now I know what my first purchase in 2010 will be now. Anybody else want to chime in.

SouthernBoy

Your engine speed should not drop when you downshift once in the lower gear - it should increase significantly. Also, hopefully you're double clutching on your downshifts.

If your clutch is fully engaged (as in your foot is off of the pedal when upshifting and your engine is doing what you have described, then yes, your clutch is slipping. The cause of this could be a failing delay valve so have that checked first. Also check your hydraulic fluid level.

73,000 miles is pretty low mileage to have a clutch go out unless you have some mechanical problems going on. Or the most common reason - abuse or improper operation techniques. My '04 manual has 71,920 miles on it and I can still break traction in the first three gears.

Let us know how it goes for you.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I haven't heard of a delay valve before. Where is that located? Is that a part of the hydraulic system?

I will check my fluid when I get home tonight.

Kikirra

You may want to check this out. It is a DIY for the removal of the slave cylinder check valve.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/113-removal-slave-cylinder-check-valve-734300/

How long have you had the TL? Is this a new occurance?

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I have really just started to notice it this last month.
I've had it a year.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I see. So southernboy must have been referring to the check valve inside the slave cylinder. After reading the first couple posts of that thread it seems that this might be the culprit. I am experiencing just what they are talking about. It could be that the check valve might not be doing it's job or it is simply over-doing it's job. Now I wonder if I should do the mod on my used slave cylinder or buy a new one? Also I wonder if this will even fix my problem or is the damage already done to the clutch?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I noticed this symptom from the time my car was new and only when I really got on it. It would rev high then go down like I was riding the clutch, even though I immediately let the pedal out fully.

I removed the check or delay valve and it now shifts like a normal manual. The jury is out on the subject of this being a smart mod or not. But I know I like the clutch feel 1000X better than before.

If after your clutch is fully engaged and you step on it. If it slips it's going. If it doesn't, it's likely ok.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Well, it has only happened right after a redline upshift. Under regular driving it seems fine. Which leads me to believe it really is that check valve. I'll have to read that 20 page thread.

SouthernBoy

Yeah, I've heard them referred to by several names and my Service Manual doesn't seem to show this little component. Check valve, delay valve, actuation control valve?

Most refer to this component as a "clutch delay valve".

Liquidflex81

i have an 04 TL 6MT and just yesterday i noticed that only in high rpm WOT shifting, (2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th) it just kinda revs's high and the car doesn't accelerate until the rpms go low enough and then it catches. Normal driving, everything is fine, no slipping, grabs really good.

that being said,, do i even have the check valve in my slave cylinder because i'm pretty sure i share the same tranny as the 03 CL 6speed which did not have the check valve....

i don't wanna just take it out to find out that i don't even have this part, but does this seem llike the culprit? am i correct on having the same trans as the CL 6MT?

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

^^^You have the same slave cylinder as the CLs. It is also the same one for 2003-2004 accords also. How ever I believe that all have the check valve still.

I am willing to give this mod a try if it will cure this problem. If it still persists then I know it must be the clutch starting to go.

Liquidflex81

sounds good, i'm gonna take a stab at the mod as well to the slave cylinder, hopeing it's just a simple fix like that, because everything else feels great. please post your results!

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I bought the SS clutch line today. Now I am wondering if I should do the valve mod on my current slave cylinder or just buy a new one, do the mod, and just swap it.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Well. I bought a new slave cylinder and took the check valve out. I also installed a new clutch line. I had to give time to my car to relearn my mods before I made any decisions on whether this helped my problem or not. Now its been a couple days and I've done a few 3rd gear, red line, 4th gear shifts and I can honestly say that my problem has improved. However there is still a slight slip after the shift. So this means further testing is required.

Changing the SC and line on my car took forever. Since I have the CAI it just kept getting in the way and it prevented me from getting enough leverage on a really tight line screw. So I had to peel half the bumper back so I could loosen the bolt for the CAI and move it out of the way. Also the fluid that I flushed out looked like gross chocolate milk. I don't think I got all of it out. One day I am going to bleed the system again and get all that old fluid out.

I'll update once I test some more.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Well, holy crap! I fixed my problem today and it took less than a second to do!

As I was driving home today my mind was wandering about things to do with my ride. I started to think about this problem. I was experiencing what I believed to be a slipping clutch. I would accelerate, pedal to the metal, and at random high RPMs I would feel something akin to a power loss to the wheels.

As it turns out this is completly normal for our car. The way I fixed it was that I turned off the VSA. One push of the button and all was well.

As an explanation, has anyone pegged the throttle in their car on a 90 degree turn with the VSA on? If you have then you have experienced a severe drop in hp because apparently the VSA will cut the throttle to prevent the tires from breaking loose. Do this with another person in the car and it will be more evident.

So on the way home today I did a rolling start from 10mph in 2nd gear all the way to redline with the VSA off. Since I've become accustomed to when in the rpm range the power loss occurs I was waiting for it. At that point, instead of a power loss, I had some wheel spin and the front of my car wiggled a bit due to the loss of traction. Simply put my car makes too much power in second for the VSA. So from now on if it is not raining the VSA will remain off.

I was sooo happy that this was so simple and I wanted to share it with ya'll.

SouthernBoy

Yep, our VSA system will definitely step in and both control throttle and apply brakes as needed. Mine stays on virtually all the time unless I feel froggy and want to jump. Then I have to control wheel spin with the throttle.

eluzion

When you shift fairly quickly a few times, does the clutch pedal feel like it's stiffer? I don't know what it is but if I give it some go and shift fairly quickly, the clutch pedal feels stiffer than normal. It goes away after a while.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

hydraulic clutch....


as for my case, i could be drivin doin 60mph drop it to 4th rpm goes up to 4k, them ill step on my accel to speed up and rpm rises and no movement at all. also car feels like its gridin on the floor (with VSA off and On)...

any1 have a clue, i kno it has 2 b the clutch goin out, i only have 64k

SouthernBoy

This does indicate your clutch is going. Are you the original owner? I ask because 64000 miles is awfully soon to be losing a clutch.

SouthernBoy

No, this is not normal. Here is a link where there has been a discussion about this very topic.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/clutch-question-754554/