My Check Engine light p0325 knock sensor question
 

i keep get'n the P0325 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank 1...when i clear the code with my reader when the car idle it will not thorw any code when i check to see if any of code is stored in the car with the cell off it shows it has 0 codes,but when i start driving and i hit 2nd hear hitting at 3rpm's ready to switch gears it throws the code again?

i would apreciate anyones help in this...im wondering if i really have to replace the knock sensor or maybe it was the bp gas i used recently?..today i filled up with shell v power at put two bottles of chevron fuel injection cleaner and a botle of octain booster

i have 2004 m/t 68,000 miles and it still drives fine with the cell on

Causes

A code P0325 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

* The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
* There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit

Possible Solutions

* Check the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs)
* Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor
* Replace the knock sensor

i figure i would probably have to replace the knock sensor thanks...but the sensor seems to be working fine up until i hit my rpm over 3 then it kicks in..is there a reason behind this?

I have no idea, the only thing I could think of is an ECU glitch since the TL has limp mode for the first 2 gears, and that would give enough time for the car to get a CEL. Try unplugging the battery for 40 minutes and see if the car shows the CEL again.

40 minuits?..i have not try that im gonna give it a go now...at idle it throws no cell and its not stored in my TL when i run my obd-2 scanner..hopefully 40 minuits do the trick then im gonna drive around and see if it pops up..the car drives great tho, just when i start rpm's hard it throws the cell..thanks again,ill post and update here

the most common thing over here is the knock sensor wire gets chewed up by rodent.. its warm in there.. the sub-wire/harness is only few bucks and sits underneath the intake manifold by the p/s pump.. if you got small hands then just removing the p/s pump you can get to it and if not then intake manifold require removal.. if the wire is fully intact then the knock sensor has seperated which i seen also

just test drove it..the light came back on again once i hit second gear at 3rpms..1st gear at 3rpms it doesnt go on..i also notice that if i keep shifting my gears below 3rpms the cell will not come on...i have huge hands and i sseen the scans on how to do it on this site,im going to have to wait till the weather warms up in nyc..thanks again guys

this needs to be fixed right away- it throws a Check Engine Light CEL for a reason when you get on the throttle-
Thats when load and conditions would be condusive to knock/pre-ignition, when its behind the power curve and you are demanding power now
After this tank of cleaner clears thru- run it down to the low fuel light then refuel (dont use octane boosters-total waste) its time to do a Seafoam treatment thru the intake manifold main vac port - clean the TB plate in the TB and see if that helps
DIY in gen3
Carbon and combustion residue- now worse with the 10% ethanol they add to gas, can build up on the piston top and cause poor combustion. Needs to be cleared off

Crud on the intake valves messes up the swirl pattern the TL makes on its own inside the intake- those tv commercials are not BS, crud does build up quickly

BP gas is not the fault here, check the TIER 1 type gas list online for types approved- chevron texaco mobil shell are all part of the program standards but the TL will run on others too, just not as well

Techroline is a very good cleaner. At the gas pump its only a maitenance dose,, the 2 bottles in the tank method will do a quick scrub of the injectors for you.

68k miles- its ready for new NGK Iridium spark plugs (thats the stock ones and best found so far) anything over 60k will run better with new plugs
Easy DIY- about 50 dollars for the 6 plugs and 1 hour or so of your labor

thanks..i just went outside pulled the thorrlte body sensor and it threw the code for it becuase it doesnt detect it connected..i did it bascilly just to do it,i connected the sensor back clear the 2 codes and drove around for about 5 minuits no cell on switching gears at 3 rpm's then the p0325 came right back up...im thinking the sensors fine becuase if it was disconected or malfunctioning the cell should stay on no matter what just like when i disconected my map sensor on the throttle body,maybe if i do the things you suggested above hopefully it will clear the problem...i also notice my coolent is abit below min so i will get it flushed this weekend...thanks again guys

also is thier an direct link to the diy of the spark plug change? thanks agin

change my spark plugs it was easy but i could not get the strut bar off..i had to scrape my hands to get the rear 3 out...car does idle smoother i reved my engine it did not pick up cell...im gonna go for a long drive later and see if it fix the problem..the plugs where baked...hope it fixed..thanks again

cell came back on..i guess im gonna have to get in there :annoyed: ...i was try'n to avoid this becuase i think the knock sensor is fine if it throws the code after driving for 2-5 miniuts...if it was damged it would pull up the cell right away...one thing tho it did throw a cell quicker before now it takes a little longer :whyme:....

El Chapo, how did things work out? Did you change the sensor?

2003 Acura RSX with CEL on, throwing codes P0325 P0134 P1259. Reset the codes, the T0325 (knock sensor) came back on shortly after starting, but the other two (primary O2 sensor and VTEC solenoid/switch) did not. No other codes or symptoms, car ran fine.

Went ahead and replaced the knock sensor. Best access was from underneath, sensor in the front and a tight squeeze to get to but do-able. A lift really helps.

Reset the codes after the replacement and the CEL stayed off. Passed emissions test, other codes have not returned. FYI, hope this may help someone, ymmv.

I'm having a similar issue with my 04 TSX (160k miles). Two of the bolts on the heat shield around the cat. rusted off, causing the heat shield to partially drop. The instant that happened, the car started idling rough, and the CEL came on with the P0325. I secured the heat shield and reset the CEL, but the sporadic rough idle will not go away. I took it to two different dealerships, neither could replicate the rough idle, or get the CEL to light. They ran diagnostics on the knock sensor, as well as the wiring harness, nothing found. Any suggestions? Stuck valve or something? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I thought it was related to the heat shield issue, but maybe just a coincidence? I picked this up with 7 mileson it... I'm not ready to unload it yet!

heat shield may have hung enough to fray some wires over the sensors

My TL have same exactly symptoms, did you found the problem?

Someone will have to tear into the engine to see if the knock sensor is not broken or damaged...
Heat from the engine makes the wires and plastic connector very brittle. it's very common for this sensor to be accidentally pulled on + the very brittle nature of it...which makes it very easy to break/damage.


or

a rodent nested in your engine bay during the winter and chewed on that sensor.


there's just no other way than tearing down the engine to reveal the knock sensor to see what is damaged, if damaged at all.

Thanks for the quick response. I just replaced it with an oem but CEL keep coming back on once speed goes over 65 mph. so every time I clear the code and drive under 60 mph CEL doesn’t come on, only happen over 65 mph

Hola, mi acura TL 2004 tiene el mismo problema, cambié el sensor de detonación y tengo el mismo error P0325, Alguien tiene una solución por favor.