I have an 05, tl, 6sp, 110,000 miles and it's burning oil like crazy, I been putting oil and driving it for like 4 months. My last option is to sell the car, so where should I start ? Should I look for a new engine or just rebuild it completely. I'm leaning more toward rebuilding it. Whats the first thing I should change. I know the 09 tsx manual trannys had oil burning problem but I searched and I could not find any tls that had thus problem.
I found this online of probable causes

Reasons a Car Burns Oil
By Kathryn Roberts, eHow Contributor
An engine that burns oil not only wastes oil but can damage spark plugs, cause the ignition to misfire and eventually affect the catalytic converter. The burning oil can also cause higher emissions, resulting in failed emissions tests due to excess hydrocarbon production. According to New Car Buying Guide, the amount of oil used varies from car to car, and cars with higher usage should consider synthetic oil.



Worn Valve Guides

Over time, the valves wear down the cylindrical chambers, or valve guides, that keep them on track and create a gap in the chambers. According to New Car Buying Guide, this gap allows oil to flow into the combustion chamber, where it then burns. Once the gap becomes too big, the valve seal cannot prevent the oil from making it into the combustion chamber.

Bad Valve Seals

The valve seals prevent the flow of oil into the engine. If the valve seals fail or are broken, cracked, worn down or improperly installed, the oil will be sucked into the engine and cylinders. According to aa1car.com, the compression may not be affected by the leaking oil, but the engine will use a lot more oil than necessary.

Pressurized Oil Pan

If carbon, a byproduct of the engine, builds up in the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, it can clog the system. Generally, the PCV system acts as an exhaust or breathing passage for the engine, but build-up pressurizes the oil pan. This pressure pushes oil into the engine through the fuel delivery system, and the oil burns.

Worn Piston Rings

If the piston rings that seal the engine's combustion chamber wear out, the pressure is sent back down to the oil pan, creating the same end result as when carbon builds up in the PCV system. According to aa1car.com, if the rings are installed upside down, twisted onto the pistons or not staggered correctly, the result will be the same as if they

 

Try a new PCV valve first, if itis plugged you get lots of blow by and oil consumption.

From Delray Acura: 17130-RCA-A02 VALVE ASSY., PCV 2005 TL 23.32

 

Part number 9

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Ok thanks

 

Make sure it's not leaking, too.

 

Yea, I checked a billion times. What I'm able to see it's burnt oil in the exhaust tips and on the orange handle of the dipstick.

 

Pull the plugs a d confirm its burning oil. If it is, troubleshoot based on whether its all cylinders or just one. What's the history, has it ever been run dry?

If it smokes, is it at startup, idle, under load, or Decel which may not be valid due to fuel cut. Remember it can be smoking pretty bad and it will still be hard o see from the drivers seat while moving.

I would properly diagnose before getting a new engine. It doesn't have a CAI, does it?

 

That's why I suggested replacing PCV before an extreme measure like new motor.

 

If you're sure it's burning a substantial amount of oil, my first move would be pull the plugs and take a peek at what they tell you. If only one or two look brutal and the rest look fine, it might be done.

Did you buy it like this and have little to no history? It's not a new issue that suddenly showed up?

I would probably do a compression and or leakdown test while the plugs are out, but that's probably not that critical.

 

I have not changed the sparkplugs but I only checked one when I was doing my axles and it looked fine. When I first found out the car was burning oil I checked the Dipstick and it was completely empty, I drove pretty much with no oil but the car was fine. I don't have CAI all I have it's mid muffler delete.
I have never seen blue smoke or smelled anything weird.

Also I found a new mechanic and he told me that I should put 6 quarts of oil, since it's a 6 cylinder. I have put in the recommended amount 4.75 and it burns it, I have put 5 quarts and it still burns it, I have put 6 quarts and it still burns it.

 

I will be checking the spark plugs soon, my mistake was only checking one and it looked fine so left it like that. When I bought the car i did the first oil change myself and only 2 and Half quarts came out, i bought the car with the problem already. The dude I got the car from seemed like he really took care of the car and had receipts of everything he had done, he was a family man with kids and his wife drove the car most of the time, but I guess he knew the car was burning oil.

 

go find another mechanic

 

I agree but the crankcase is not going to pressure up even if the PCV is blocked. You won't have crossflow but you still have the fresh air side to atmosphere for pressure to escape if the PCV is plugged.

If there was enough pressure to cause this kind of oil burning it would be leaking as well, especially from one of the dynamic seals.

OP, how many quarts do you have to add in a given mileage?

It seems like if it were burning this much oil it would have taken out one or both of the cats of 02s.

 

It burns about a little more of one quart and a half every 1,500 miles. I don't know why no engine light has come up or no sensors have been damaged,?specially when I drove the car with pretty much no oil. I don't think I got any leaks anywhere cuz when I got the timing belt done at Hamilton the could have seen it.

 

great research!

 

Dammit you're correct about leaks, the op mentioned that, my bad. If stuck open though you'd get blow by when you put your foot into it. Long shot I guess.
More than likely gummed oil rings.

 

You won't get the light until the oil pressure drops below 4-5 PSI. If you never got the light, it's unlikely anything was damaged due to oil level.

 

The TL only senses oil pressure, not level. If the level has gotten so low that the pump sucks air and pressure drops while the engine is under load, damage is done very quickly. If the light ever comes on damage is being done at a very fast rate.

 

So, any suggestions on what should I do?

 

Plugs first. If you find any oil burners I would do a compression check on all 6. Leakdown would be even better. If there is no evidence of oil burning its time to look really hard for leaks. Also, open the oil fill cap with the engine running, there should be very little vapor or noise in there. I've had bad rings that have a ton of blow by but didn't burn much oil. The oil would hit 300 degrees without going under boost, just regular driving. It did cause a lot of evaporation through the "PCV" system.

What kind of oil are you using. Normally I would try an oil with a very high HTHS and very low NOACK value like Redline but with this much consumption it would probably be a waste of money.

 

Doesn't the fact that it was dry of oil at one point indicate a serious issue like a warped head or totaled rings?

 

I use mobil 1, I thought about changing the oil but I don't know which one to go for. I will talk to my mechanic and see what he thinks, make sure there are no leaks anywhere and go from there.
thanks alot for the help, I will come back and give an update on what Ill end up doing.

 

I think so too, I don't know how nothing happened to the car while I was driving like that. I wonder what caused the car to burn oil, a lady drove the car and she always had kids in the car all the time. I think the car wasn't abused but then againg I don't know.

 

If this is the same mechanic that said it needs 6 quarts of oil because it's a 6 cylinder I would not go back. I'm not trying to be sarcastic or funny but seriously, get another mechanic.

If it uses that much oil, the oil is not the problem nor will it fix the problem. If it's burning, Redline will slow it down but you'll be wasting $10 a quart oil and the additional ZDDP will help end the cats lives slightly quicker. You can try Mobil High Mileage. Not as good as Redline but a little cheaper and it has some good qualities for oil burning cars. I assure you, your mechanic will be of no assistance in deciding on which oil to use. He will probably wan to use a Lucas product.

 

A dry dipstick doesn't necessarily mean zero oil. Being down 1.5 - 2 qts will be enough for the dipstick not to register. That still leaves 2.5-3 qts in the pan. That is not ideal, but it doesn't mean certain damage...

I'll be very interested to follow this thread. Really surprised that you are loosing oil at that rate and have no external leaks nor smoking nor fouled O2 sensors...

 

I am having the same problem with my wifes 05 with 110k on it.

Never codes or lights... i have been adding an additive at every oil change to slow down the consumption for now.

 

One of my previous cars "lost" oil at about this rate with no visible signs. Not a single oil leak, no visible smoke out exhaust, and no issues with the O2 sensors. I just had to be sure to check my oil and add around a quart every 1500-2000 miles. I drove that car like that for an additional 50k+ miles.

It is a real PITA to have to remember to always add oil, but if that is what it takes, then so be it.

 

That is true...it doesn't mean there is zero oil, key here is how much did you add after you discovered the dry dipstick to get it to full? If you had to add 4 or 5 qts then you've got a serious issue.

And IHC is correct the mechanic that told you to have 6 qts is a quack, find someone new with Honda/Acura expertise.

 

yea, I had to add like 3 qts. I'll try having other mechanics give me an opion about it.

 

So, I guess you never found what the problem was. What happened after 50k miles? did you sell the car or the engine died?

 

Let me know if you figure out what the problem is.have you taking it to any mechanics? What have they said about it ? As soon as I find more info I'll let you know, thanks.

 

There was no problem other than using a K&N filter on the car for 50k miles.....never again. It had to have been burning the oil. It started using oil around the 85k mile mark and burned about a quart every 2000 miles until I sold it with ~140k miles on it. That guy continued driving it for at least a couple more years. I lost track of it after that.

That engine (GM LD9) was known for burning oil is the main difference here. Our engine in our TL is not known for that feature.

 

Have you checked the plugs yet? This will point you in one of two directions, it's burning oil or it's leaking oil.

 

I'll do it this weekend, been doing a lot of overtime at work and have not had any time.

 

Oil filters themselves won't burn oil.

 

I think he meant air filter...but not sure.

 

I meant to say air filters, too. Oil filters won't - air filters definitely won't.

 

Crappy air filters that let in more dirt than normal can't help. The LD9 was known for burning oil as the miles went up, but I found it quite odd that my oil consumption started going up about 10k miles after I had put on the K&N. I do know for sure my oil didn't get nearly as dark and nasty when I pulled the K&N off and went back to the factory airbox and filter the last year I had the car.

 

The crazy thing with mine is ive checked a few plugs and they look to be burning clean.

 

This is very high consumption and not normal--something is very wrong. (I have an V-6 Odyssey with 180K using zero oil)

I suggest you'd be better off not trying to guess (no offense but you don't sound like an engine expert), and let a good mechanic look at it. Ask for a simple compression leak-down test--that should tell you what the issue is. Good luck bro.