Just Replaced Clutch Master and Slave
10-20-2013, 07:59 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Just Replaced Clutch Master and Slave
Hey Everyone,
I finally got around to replacing both the Clutch Master and Slave cylinders. The check valve from the slave was removed.
First off, this job seems like it should be simple, but it wasn't. For those of you considering this, you should be aware of the following:
The working area around the CM is tight.
On the '04 TL the rigid line going out from the CM is attached to the frame with fasteners that you have to cut. On later models an easier to remove fastener may have been used. In addition, the rigid line was bonded to the flex line (didn't want to extend the job any longer) so I didn't separate them.
It is not necessary to remove the battery mounting shelf from the car, as you have enough access to the CS as is.
Now for the good:
After about 20 miles of driving I noticed that the gear shifting is just smooth and slick - all of the notchy feeling is gone. The clutch feels like a real clutch - it engages with more feel and it does so consistently and always at the same height.
Hope this helps.
TL Rocket
'04 6MT
I finally got around to replacing both the Clutch Master and Slave cylinders. The check valve from the slave was removed.
First off, this job seems like it should be simple, but it wasn't. For those of you considering this, you should be aware of the following:
The working area around the CM is tight.
On the '04 TL the rigid line going out from the CM is attached to the frame with fasteners that you have to cut. On later models an easier to remove fastener may have been used. In addition, the rigid line was bonded to the flex line (didn't want to extend the job any longer) so I didn't separate them.
It is not necessary to remove the battery mounting shelf from the car, as you have enough access to the CS as is.
Now for the good:
After about 20 miles of driving I noticed that the gear shifting is just smooth and slick - all of the notchy feeling is gone. The clutch feels like a real clutch - it engages with more feel and it does so consistently and always at the same height.
Hope this helps.
TL Rocket
'04 6MT
10-25-2013, 12:46 PM
#3
the overexplainer
what brand MC/SC did you end up going with? Might be interested in replacing mine since i feel like the clutch engagement isnt consistent. Some days it's smooth and other days its jerky.
10-28-2013, 08:56 AM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Bleeding the system was a simple one-person job, just get a long enough hose to fit over the CS nipple.
If I were to do it again I would order a new rigid line (or fabricate one) and cut the flex line and remove the other rigid line to the CS and work from there.
Even after all of this it was worth it. The shifting is now smooth and CONSISTENT - no more shifting smoothly one minute and rough the next - it is always smooooooth.
Feel free to ask any more questions.
Thanks guys,
TL-Rocket
10-28-2013, 11:28 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I didn't use anything, I just ran a tube from the bleed nipple to a cup that rested above the reservior, then did the following:
Filled the reservior to the top;
Pressed down on the clutch pedal;
Manually lifted the clutch pedal back up;
Topped off the reservior;
Manually pressed the clutch fork back into the clutch master and pulled it back;
Topped off the reservior;
When you've repeated the above steps a number of times you'll start to feel good resistance when you press down on the clutch pedal, then it's time to tighten the bleeder screw and you're done.
When I first drove it after this, the clutch pedal seemed to engage high, but after a few shifts it released closer to the bottom (where it should) and remained that way.
Thanks,
TL-Rocket
Filled the reservior to the top;
Pressed down on the clutch pedal;
Manually lifted the clutch pedal back up;
Topped off the reservior;
Manually pressed the clutch fork back into the clutch master and pulled it back;
Topped off the reservior;
When you've repeated the above steps a number of times you'll start to feel good resistance when you press down on the clutch pedal, then it's time to tighten the bleeder screw and you're done.
When I first drove it after this, the clutch pedal seemed to engage high, but after a few shifts it released closer to the bottom (where it should) and remained that way.
Thanks,
TL-Rocket
10-28-2013, 11:44 AM
#7
I didn't use anything, I just ran a tube from the bleed nipple to a cup that rested above the reservior, then did the following:
Filled the reservior to the top;
Pressed down on the clutch pedal;
Manually lifted the clutch pedal back up;
Topped off the reservior;
Manually pressed the clutch fork back into the clutch master and pulled it back;
Topped off the reservior;
When you've repeated the above steps a number of times you'll start to feel good resistance when you press down on the clutch pedal, then it's time to tighten the bleeder screw and you're done.
When I first drove it after this, the clutch pedal seemed to engage high, but after a few shifts it released closer to the bottom (where it should) and remained that way.
Thanks,
TL-Rocket
Filled the reservior to the top;
Pressed down on the clutch pedal;
Manually lifted the clutch pedal back up;
Topped off the reservior;
Manually pressed the clutch fork back into the clutch master and pulled it back;
Topped off the reservior;
When you've repeated the above steps a number of times you'll start to feel good resistance when you press down on the clutch pedal, then it's time to tighten the bleeder screw and you're done.
When I first drove it after this, the clutch pedal seemed to engage high, but after a few shifts it released closer to the bottom (where it should) and remained that way.
Thanks,
TL-Rocket
When I replaced my clutch master cylinder and did the slave cylinder check valve removal, I did the following to bleed my clutch.
To limit fork travel on the slave cylinder, I cut a piece of broomstick to length (per rockstar's suggestion) and wedged it between my tire and the slave cylinder fork. You have to do this to bleed the clutch properly! Here's the bleeding process in short.
1) Fill up clutch reservoir with new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. I used the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid from Advance Auto Parts.
2) Have your helper pump the clutch 10-15 times and then on the last time hold it completely to the floor. Quickly open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with an 8mm wrench and then close it once the air/fluid has came out. Before having your helper release his foot from the clutch, remove the cap from the clutch fluid reservoir and top up with fluid. Reinstall cap and have him raise his foot from the clutch pedal and also lift the clutch back up with his foot since it will not have any pressure.
3) Repeat this process until no air comes out of the bleeder screw and it's just straight fluid. The two times that I have bled my clutch it has taken me at least 6 rounds of this to get all of the air out. It's a very simple and straight forward process.
If I missed anything, feel free to let me know. Hopefully this helps as a supplement to the service manual scans. I didn't like this install at all. Cut up my arms and hands all over.
One last thing to note, don't get brake fluid on the paint and if you do immediately wash it off with soap and water!
1) Fill up clutch reservoir with new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. I used the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid from Advance Auto Parts.
2) Have your helper pump the clutch 10-15 times and then on the last time hold it completely to the floor. Quickly open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with an 8mm wrench and then close it once the air/fluid has came out. Before having your helper release his foot from the clutch, remove the cap from the clutch fluid reservoir and top up with fluid. Reinstall cap and have him raise his foot from the clutch pedal and also lift the clutch back up with his foot since it will not have any pressure.
3) Repeat this process until no air comes out of the bleeder screw and it's just straight fluid. The two times that I have bled my clutch it has taken me at least 6 rounds of this to get all of the air out. It's a very simple and straight forward process.
If I missed anything, feel free to let me know. Hopefully this helps as a supplement to the service manual scans. I didn't like this install at all. Cut up my arms and hands all over.
One last thing to note, don't get brake fluid on the paint and if you do immediately wash it off with soap and water!
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