J-pipe exploded....what now?
#42
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: New Orleans area, LA
Age: 43
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Be sure to read the fine print in your auto policy. My buddy had a lowered turbo civic with some fly by night insurance agency. He rear-ended a lifted Silverado(did some damage to the top end of the motor, hood, fenders, etc.). His auto insurance policy had a clause that refused to cover car if it had been modified. They told him that since the car was lowered, the damage sustained during the accident wouldn’t have been as bad if the car was at stock height. After arguing with them for a week or so, they paid for the body damage but refused to cover the damage to the motor.
#43
MMkay.
iTrader: (2)
Be sure to read the fine print in your auto policy. My buddy had a lowered turbo civic with some fly by night insurance agency. He rear-ended a lifted Silverado(did some damage to the top end of the motor, hood, fenders, etc.). His auto insurance policy had a clause that refused to cover car if it had been modified. They told him that since the car was lowered, the damage sustained during the accident wouldn’t have been as bad if the car was at stock height. After arguing with them for a week or so, they paid for the body damage but refused to cover the damage to the motor.
Is scary. I wonder what insurance company it was..I wonder if you could disclose the insurance company's name? Just curious.
Turbo civic? RICER!
jk.jk. I love all hondas equally.
#44
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
Took another look at your picture.
Notice the clean spot (marked it) that bracket bolts to the bottom of the rear pre-cat, it's obviously shifted since it has that clean spot on it.
With the busted j-pipe angling down like that it looks like the cat shifted which is probably why you weren't able to get your sockets on that nut.
The 4 nuts that hold the precat on aren't all that big, should be able to get a look at it by removing your plastic covers in the engine bay and just looking down onto them.
The bottom ones on the rear precat probably got damaged or the studs in the cylinder head maybe the cat itself. Should be easy to look at. A small mirror might help.
If you intend to change the CV joints it's probably going to be easier to replace the entire axle with both the inner and outer joints. If you have an AT I'd go with raxles (I did mine recently).
Also the rear pre-cat is really easy to get out if you do it while you're doing the passenger axle. Once the passenger axle is out you remove the intermediate shaft then the cat just slides out the bottom. Alternatively you can remove the heat shield first then try to wiggle the rear precat out the top. It is quite a bit of work. Definitely get a look at it first and figure out why its not lining up right.
I recently did this on my car, both axles, intermediate shaft & put in HFPCs.
I'd follow the other people's advice and get the insurance to cover it.
Notice the clean spot (marked it) that bracket bolts to the bottom of the rear pre-cat, it's obviously shifted since it has that clean spot on it.
With the busted j-pipe angling down like that it looks like the cat shifted which is probably why you weren't able to get your sockets on that nut.
The 4 nuts that hold the precat on aren't all that big, should be able to get a look at it by removing your plastic covers in the engine bay and just looking down onto them.
The bottom ones on the rear precat probably got damaged or the studs in the cylinder head maybe the cat itself. Should be easy to look at. A small mirror might help.
If you intend to change the CV joints it's probably going to be easier to replace the entire axle with both the inner and outer joints. If you have an AT I'd go with raxles (I did mine recently).
Also the rear pre-cat is really easy to get out if you do it while you're doing the passenger axle. Once the passenger axle is out you remove the intermediate shaft then the cat just slides out the bottom. Alternatively you can remove the heat shield first then try to wiggle the rear precat out the top. It is quite a bit of work. Definitely get a look at it first and figure out why its not lining up right.
I recently did this on my car, both axles, intermediate shaft & put in HFPCs.
I'd follow the other people's advice and get the insurance to cover it.
Last edited by mzilvar; 06-25-2013 at 11:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
YeuEmMaiMai (06-26-2013)
#45
Three Wheelin'
Be sure to read the fine print in your auto policy. My buddy had a lowered turbo civic with some fly by night insurance agency. He rear-ended a lifted Silverado(did some damage to the top end of the motor, hood, fenders, etc.). His auto insurance policy had a clause that refused to cover car if it had been modified. They told him that since the car was lowered, the damage sustained during the accident wouldn’t have been as bad if the car was at stock height. After arguing with them for a week or so, they paid for the body damage but refused to cover the damage to the motor.
And it sounds like they didnt deny the claim if they covered the collision damage. They denyed the modified parts which every company will do if you do not have the proper endorsement. I have 5k of custom parts and equipment on all my cars at all times. It sounds like your friend was just mad that he didnt buy the proper coverage and tried to blame it on the insurance company.
There is a saying in insurance: "Adjusters, educating customers one insurance claim at a time."
#46
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
So when you want to get insurance for aftermarket parts- do you just pick a specific "maximum" cost, like $5K in your case? Or do you have to specify what exactly is aftermarket on your car? I should probably do this once I get the supercharger on...
#49
Three Wheelin'
You have to do it by cost and not part. Keep in mind that there are two different types of aftermarket parts/upgrades.
1. Replacement Type: ie Wheels or Exhaust. This is a part that was on your car already and you replaced with another. Lets say you replace an exhaust with one for 1200.00 and your car is totaled. All cars require an exhaust (to be legal) so what they do is they take the cost of an OEM exhaust and compare to the aftermarket and what ever the difference is will be added to the value or the aftermarket parts ryder. Keep in mind that things like wheels, intake, lamps, and exhaust rarely add value as the cost to replace them OEM is typically much higher then the "upgraded" part.
2. Additional: ie Supercharger: This is a part that your car did not have and you added to it. This will add direct value to the car as you did not remove anything to install it. Now also keep in mind that you will not get 100% back as the second its installed it is no longer new and it is worth less. (deminished value).
Now knowing this you can take out an educated amount of custom parts. this is why I keep ALL OEM parts I take off my car, If its totaled I can replace it with the original parts and sell the aftermarket to get some money back.
1. Replacement Type: ie Wheels or Exhaust. This is a part that was on your car already and you replaced with another. Lets say you replace an exhaust with one for 1200.00 and your car is totaled. All cars require an exhaust (to be legal) so what they do is they take the cost of an OEM exhaust and compare to the aftermarket and what ever the difference is will be added to the value or the aftermarket parts ryder. Keep in mind that things like wheels, intake, lamps, and exhaust rarely add value as the cost to replace them OEM is typically much higher then the "upgraded" part.
2. Additional: ie Supercharger: This is a part that your car did not have and you added to it. This will add direct value to the car as you did not remove anything to install it. Now also keep in mind that you will not get 100% back as the second its installed it is no longer new and it is worth less. (deminished value).
Now knowing this you can take out an educated amount of custom parts. this is why I keep ALL OEM parts I take off my car, If its totaled I can replace it with the original parts and sell the aftermarket to get some money back.
#50
the jpipe doesnt exactly just pop right in, i jacked up the engine a little bit so i could get a better angle since my subframe was also in the way during the first install. I don't really understand the willingness to cut up a well made pipe, prolly woulda messed with it for awhile first
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