austinjh

Hey Guys,

First and foremost, I want to thank all of you who add your expertise and insights to this forum, Acurazine posters helped me fix a simple error on my car a while back, and it was a true blessing. As cliche as it seams; thanks!

On to my Trans Issue..

Car: 2005 Acura TL
Model: v6, auto trans
Miles: 111,xxx

Conditions in which the problem happens: After the car has sat all night, and very cold

Fluid: changed around 60,000 miles, car now has 111,xxx

Problem: I start the car, shift into drive, and there is a sometimes 2 second delay from when I shift into drive, and when I feel the transmission actually engage.

After driving the car for a while, the problem goes away. I will put it into park, back into drive, reverse, etc, and it shifts normally.

I checked the fluid, it is brown, smells somewhat normal, and is at the perfect level.

Example scenario from today:

I woke up this morning and got into my car around 7:30. It was very cold, around 25 degrees. I started the motor, let it sit for around 1 minute to warm up, get buckled in, etc, then I moved my shifter into drive. It took about 2-3 seconds to engage into drive. I then drove about 30 minutes(15 miles or so...snowing too), got to my meeting, which took about 45 minutes, came outside, and it began shifting normally. Went home, checked fluid, everything looked great. (Fluid a light-ish brown)

What do you all think?

Thanks and Blessings
Austin

jda123

Your immediate problem is likely a worn out 3rd gear pressure switch. The AT shifts into 3rd when going from P to D. After the warmup, the switch is likely working better.

However, I would recommend a 4 headed beast... which you can do all at home:

Change the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches
Change the transmission filter
Fluid change with better fluid
Clean the solenoids and pipe-screens

After this, keep up on the fluid and switches (every 50K, or so). Trans should have a long life.

austinjh

Thank you very much for the input. It is sincerely appreciated.

Is this something that can wait till spring, or do you recommend doing it ASAP?


Has anyone else ever experienced this?

usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

The key besides the pressure switches is also changing your fluid more often. I know someone who has a 2nd gen tl with his trans at 170k+ miles and all he does is change his fluid out every 15k miles and he even uses the old acura z1 fluid and still has a case left that he's going to finish. I suggest you switch to the new acura dw1 fluid, it's oem and don't have to worry about mixing this and that to get proper levels with redline. Yes redline is better if you get the proper levels right, why risk flarring issues and headaches? If you do one drain and fill every 15k miles which is about 3 oil changes later you'll spend what $30 max to prolong your transmission.

jda123

Go ahead and wait as long as you want, but if our suppositions are correct, then every shift will cause more wear than it should. I would do it ASAP.

The fluid is like changing oil - there is a drain plug and fill hole. The switches are externally assessable down by the drivers tire - you don't have to take the tire off or use a jack. The filter and solenoid pipe screens require that you remove the batter and air box. All easy stuff if you are mechanically inclined. There are DIYs for all of them, I think - if not, hollar and we can walk you through it.

I hate cars

That's exactly right. If the switches are out of calibration enough to cause the lag between 3rd and 1st gear, every time it shifts in normal driving it's causing excessive wear on the 3rd and 4th gear clutches. The next post will be about a shudder and then failure.

Also, Z1 oxidizes quickly. I would never run stock fluid for more than 10-15,000 miles. It thickens and you run into cold flow issues.

Change the switches every 2-3 years regardless of mileage. Change the stock fluid with every engine oil change. If you go with a good synthetic, 50k should be ok.

austinjh

Thanks for all your input thus far.

Unfortunately, the sensors did not fix the major problem. They def. helped in the 3/4 shifts, and I think it engages maybe a bit quicker, but did not completely solve the problem. The trans runs super smooth, all shifts in each direction, its only in the early cold morning that it has an issue shifting quickly into D - My hunch is the fluid needs a change for sure.

After the car has got up and ran for the day, it is fine till the next morning.

Tomorrow I am going to 3x3 Z1, new filter, etc. Hoping this will lead to some improvements. Will post after.

I have done a great amount of reading - should I go Z1 or the DW1?

Thanks guys.

I hate cars

Redline D4 or "racing" or any DexIII or Type F equivalent. D4 is ultra conservative, I run Type F but some are afraid of it. If you absolutely must go with factory fluid, don't use Z1.

xander569

If you don't want to take any chances, run the Redline D4. You are definitely in need of a 3x3 (drain and fill 3x). I would stay away from the Honda Z1 and DW1, there are lots of threads as to why.

If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself or don't have the tools, call around to tranny shops and find out who will do the drain and fill. You want to insist on this, don't let them hook it up to a machine to suck the fluid out.

austinjh

Went ahead and bought a case of AmsOil Dex III today - the filter and all that comes in tomorrow. Going to change it all out Friday and will report back then!

Its about 45 out and the car runs just about flawless. It's only when it gets really stinkin cold that it has its little problem. Those sensors def. helped my shifts, though.

Thanks for all the input guys!!

Blessings
Austin

pohljm

^^ I do not think there is anything found to be wrong with the DW-1. I had a trans failure while running Redline Type F racing and have been using the DW-1 that came with the new tranny without issue. I would not use the Z-1.

austinjh

Update:

Unbelievable improvement after 3x3 of AmsOil Dex III and filter change. I believe the problem is gone. The real test will be tomorrow morning. Today, the car sat for about 5 hours in 30 degree weather, and when I started it up and shifted into drive, it engaged in what seem to be perfectly normal time. Shifts are way smoother and more consistent, all the way around. 30 launch with 0 slippage, all shifts at WOT are just perfect.

Thanks again for all the input guys, ill post an update after I drive tomorrow morning! Pretty sure my problem has been taken care of! Will confirm tomorrow!

austinjh

Does anyone know where I can find a good write up or information on how to clean my solenoids and screens?

That is the last thing I'm going to try before I take it to a shop.

The problem is still there, and way worse in the cold. I swear I can hear a noise from the trans as well...all my shifts are great, except my 1-2 in super cold weather...

I am going to clean the solenoids and screens and if that doesn't fix the issue, its sadly time to go to the shop!

Any info would be appreciated!

CannaDude

Is there any way you can help navigate me to the info on doin this myself mine is also doin this as well as hesitating between 35-40 mph all help is very appreciated

I hate cars

Cleaning them is probably a waste of time. It can't hurt but I would replace the switches and main filter. What kind of fluid do you have and have you checked the fluid level when cold? The 1-2 is not effected by the switches.

jda123

Mine were pretty gunked up. They looked like the magnetic plug, full of the black metallic residue. I am sure that the both of my cars were Z1 cars until I got them. Both of my cars shifted better after I cleaned them, but neither of them have gunked back up since I don't have the wear with the good fluid. I don't think that it is necessary if you are on top of your maintenance, but very much could if it was neglected.

Solenoids are important. Like the pressure switches, they don't have to throw a CEL code to be not working right.

Take the battery and housing off. Take the air box off (use the DIY in the 3G garage for the filter change). Change the filter while you are in there. Check out post #10 on this thread, it will show you where it is:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switches-mixed-up-829737/

If you download the service manual, it might tell you what resistance (or whatever) to test them. I have personally replaced solenoid packs on accord transmissions (they were a couple hundred bucks) and they performed like new when the dealer wanted to replace them.

I hate cars

I agree, that's one thing that people don't understand, there doesn't have to be a CEL to have a problem with a sensor. It's been proven that the switches can be waaay out of calibration without throwing a code. The problem with switches is the ECU can detect an electrical fault but it doesn't know that the diaphragm is getting brittle and causing the switch to get out of calibration. It may be fine electrically but the ECU has no idea what the condition is mechanically.

Cleaning is free, might as well try it. But if his car is more than a couple years old and has not had new switches done, it will benefit from the switches.

jda123

I cannot remember the exact values, but when I checked resistance/impedance (whichever one it was) of the resting 3rd switches, the new ones were nearly twice what the old ones were. I am due for some switches in 5-10K miles, so I will write it down this time. The 4th switch, was not as bad, but still off by 20-30%.

However, both were within operating range according to the service manual.

The solenoids can suffer from the same problem (wearing out), but they appear to last longer. However, if they cannot get unrestricted flow, they won't work right. I imagine as we all get to 200K, and beyond, then solenoids will become a bigger issue to us DIY guys to test/replace.

jonessw20

So if im getting the shuddering issue from third to fourth, would that mean that its past the point of just replacing the switches and fluid to bring back to normal???

Also ive been having an issue when its cold ,like under 20 degrees, when i first start the car it will not shift out of park. i have to wait alittle while sometimes. longest ive had to wait is like 5min. usually not nearly that long though. Is that also related to transmission service possibly?

The shifting out of park issue has just started. The shuddering issue has been going on since soon after buying the car. Ive had it for just over a month and got 2 months warranty on it. I also took it in for the shuddering but they couldnt get it to do it. Any suggestions on what i should tell them? Im gonna go back in tomorrow.

Thanks for any help

Josh

jda123

You will never get them to admit that it is shuddering. If you do, I will be amazed.

Read up - the fluid changes, pressure switch changes, filter changes (2004-2006) and the solenoid cleaning (if necessary) are the best bet to take care of your issues... and should.

The longer the wait, the more significant wear you will have when it shudders. At a minimum, I would get some good quality Dex/Merc III in it with a fluid change - the Mobil 1 Synthetic in the grey bottle should be available at any auto parts store for this change (you need 3 quarts). This will buy you some time to order some switches and read up on which fluid you want to use long term.

jonessw20

alright thanks for the advice. its suppose to be 8degrees for a high tomorrow so im gonna go there and park it and come back to show them the shift out of park issue. Probably wont happen though as usual. i cant stand going to the dealer and not getting the issue to repeat!!!

prowheelie92

when i had to leave early today morning and i shifted it into reverse it took literally 10 seconds on a cold start 10 SECONDS -___- i wish mine was 3 seconds. anyways im looking forward doing a fluid change with the amsoil dex 3 but first im going to a transmission specialist for a free check up =D