I have a 2005 TL 6spd.

Current problems:
-rough/shaky idle when cold (cannot find problem)
-excessive valve noise *a little louder than "honda tap"* (is this normal?)
-clicking when turning (bad passenger side outer CV *always seems to be the passenger side...*)
-clutch pedal clicks/squeaks when fully pressed (clutch master cylinder is bad)

purchased 11/13/2011 with 56,588 miles. back on august 30th of 2011, i was coming home from work. had the cruise control set at 62mph (around 2100rpm). car started stuttering and shaking. check engine light was flashing so fast that i thought i was at a rave. I immediately pulled off the highway, checked under the car for oil. nothing.. i had around 75,000 miles at this point.

grabbed a flashlight and popped the hood. there was and immense amount of fuel saturated smoke hovering in the engine bay. noticed the middle coil pack on the front of the engine was crooked. i nudged it... it moved... looked down the hole and could see into the cylinder.

had the car towed to a notable local Acura dealership. (bobby rahal Acura)

they replaced the bare cylinder head, salvaging and reusing what they could from my old head.

parts replaced:
cylinder head (x1)
spark plug (x1)
coil (x1)
gaskets
etc.

Total parts: $969.57
Total labor: $1163.60
Total repair: $2133.17

bought the car used and i purchased the extended warranty from the dealership. car can be serviced at any garage for 3 years/36,000 miles after i purchased it. i pay a $100 deductible plus whatever tax was on the whole job. ended up paying somewhere around $250. I have 2 buddies that work for a different Honda dealership (Faulkner Honda). they both told me that this isn't an uncommon problem with the J series engines. and it is ALWAYS the center spark plug on the front side of the engine. but is more common on 3.0L accords...

I was without a car for 2 1/2 weeks.. I was also experiencing a clutch problem. clunking/clicking when fully pressed. sometimes staying on the floor. only experience hard shifting when revving engine over 4,000rpm. bobby rahal also checked this out. they claimed the clutch master cylinder was the culprit... service bulletin issued for clutch master cylinder as well that i have just found today.



the problem i cannot diagnose is: The next day after getting my head replaced, i started my car, it was misfiring. the idle smoothed out after about 10 seconds and THEN the CEL came on. hooked my reader up and pulled 7 codes...

Cylinder 1 misfire
Cylinder 2 misfire
Cylinder 3 misfire
Cylinder 4 misfire
Cylinder 5 misfire
Cylinder 6 misfire
Random/Multiple cylinder misfire

cleared the code and all was good. didn't happen again until 4 months later. same codes every time. It's happening more often now. saw other threads about coil issues. had all my coils tested. all fine.

does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this "misfire" on a cold start? the engine has to be off for about 6 hours for this problem to occur.

*side note* i did find out that it doesnt misfire or throw a CEL if i turn the key to the "on" position (two clicks). wait for the fuel pump to prime and the check engine light to go off. then i start the car and have no problems. but if i have the key in the ignition in the "off" position and go straight to "start" this problem will occur. any ideas??? any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks!

 

i dont think ur coil packs are good, swap them out for new ones..get your vavles adjusted for the loud ticking, and for the shakey cold starts, your engine is just getting older, still good but aging. good luck

 

sorry... forgot to mention that i tested all 6 coil packs...

-used an LED test light to check for igniter voltage signal to each coil - everything checks out fine.

-with the ignition off, I connected an ohmmeter across terminals 1 and 2. This will test the 1-2 coil pack. Next I connected the ohmmeter across terminals 2 and 3. This will test the 3-4 coil pack. The resistance was between 0.63 and 0.77 ohms for all 6 coil packs.

Then i checked the ignition coil's secondary resistance, I connected an ohmmeter between the companion cylinder coil towers. First I tested cylinder numbers 1 and 2, then cylinders 3 and 4. The resistance was between 10.4 and 15.6 k-ohms for all.

according to my 1963 page service manual. this is within spec.

 

reflash it

 

Wow man.... Seems like reflashing the PCM is the answer to everything... And why would you suggest a reflash before you suggest a reset???

 

Wow man.... Seems like reflashing the PCM is the answer to everything... And why would you suggest a reflash before you suggest a reset???

 

Make sure you have your radio/nav codes and disconnect the battery for 15 min or so. That'll reset the ECU. For the idle issue, there is a procedure to 'teach' the ECU how to idle, it's slightly different between the MT and AT.

Reflash after cleaning the throttlebody???? WHAT????

Since you had so much work done, why doesn't the dealer give you advice you on this?

 

Do you have any information on the "idle learn" procedure?