How to test Motor Mounts on 6spd?
05-23-2011, 12:13 AM
#1
How to test Motor Mounts on 6spd?
I can't find the answer for this. I've done searches on google, azine, and youtube and I can't find out how you test the engine mounts on a manual transmission car.
I know on an automatic you just hold the brake with your left foot and rev the engine with your right while having the tranny in either drive or reverse. But how do I do this on my 6spd TL?
Suggestions? Help?
I know on an automatic you just hold the brake with your left foot and rev the engine with your right while having the tranny in either drive or reverse. But how do I do this on my 6spd TL?
Suggestions? Help?
05-23-2011, 05:34 PM
#5
I thought about the e-brake. But it would just stall if I tried that. Or just pull the car through the brake.
I guess visual is the best I CAN do. I read before that there is normally a certain order in which these go bad. Like side, front, rear. Something like that. What is that order of failure again? Anyone know?
I guess visual is the best I CAN do. I read before that there is normally a certain order in which these go bad. Like side, front, rear. Something like that. What is that order of failure again? Anyone know?
05-23-2011, 06:36 PM
#6
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
The manual mounts are better than the automatic ones. It's very rare to see them fail unless you completely abuse your vehicle. Usually with the help of a friend you can use the "E-brake" trick to indicate any play in the engine mounts while the other looks carefully at the amount of movement in the mount. Usually the ones to fail is Front + passenger side mounts. In most cases the mounts would collapse in itself. Manual mounts are pretty much solid mounts unlike the automatics are hydralic filled.
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05-23-2011, 10:40 PM
#9
hmmm. Ok. I'll let you know what I find out. BTW, I will be hitting 100k miles this week. So it is a 2005 and has 100k miles. Figured that would be helpful to know.
I was planning on doing my 105k service and the mounts at the same time if needed.
I was planning on doing my 105k service and the mounts at the same time if needed.
05-23-2011, 11:16 PM
#10
The manual mounts are better than the automatic ones. It's very rare to see them fail unless you completely abuse your vehicle. Usually with the help of a friend you can use the "E-brake" trick to indicate any play in the engine mounts while the other looks carefully at the amount of movement in the mount. Usually the ones to fail is Front + passenger side mounts. In most cases the mounts would collapse in itself. Manual mounts are pretty much solid mounts unlike the automatics are hydralic filled.
no, they are not solid mounts.
no, they do not differ from automatics.
while in first gear(clutch depressed,left foot), place toes on brake pedal and slide heal to gas pedal(right foot). while maintaining pressure on brake pedal, slightly depress gas pedal enough to hear the rpms flare. at same time rpms flare release pressure from clutch pedal enough to feel the car "kick". sometimes even pop the clutch, but usually not required.
good luck
play with this and youll get it.
05-24-2011, 05:55 AM
#11
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
how do you figure these mounts are better than automatics?
no, they are not solid mounts.
no, they do not differ from automatics.
while in first gear(clutch depressed,left foot), place toes on brake pedal and slide heal to gas pedal(right foot). while maintaining pressure on brake pedal, slightly depress gas pedal enough to hear the rpms flare. at same time rpms flare release pressure from clutch pedal enough to feel the car "kick". sometimes even pop the clutch, but usually not required.
good luck
play with this and youll get it.
no, they are not solid mounts.
no, they do not differ from automatics.
while in first gear(clutch depressed,left foot), place toes on brake pedal and slide heal to gas pedal(right foot). while maintaining pressure on brake pedal, slightly depress gas pedal enough to hear the rpms flare. at same time rpms flare release pressure from clutch pedal enough to feel the car "kick". sometimes even pop the clutch, but usually not required.
good luck
play with this and youll get it.
05-24-2011, 06:43 AM
#12
Example:
ACURA TL FR. ENGINE MOUNTING RUBBER ASSY. (AT)
Part# 50830-SEP-A02 Fits Years:'04 - '06
Fits Models:
TL 4DR BASE, TL 4DR BASE (NAVIGATION
Part# 50830-SEP-A03 Fits Years:'07 - '08
Fits Models:
TL 4DR BASE, TL 4DR BASE (NAVIGATION), TL 4DR TYPE-S, TL 4DR TYPE-S (SUMMER TIRE)
ACURA TL FR. ENGINE MOUNTING RUBBER ASSY. (MT)
Part# 50830-SEP-A12 Fits Years:'04 - '08
Fits Models:
TL 4DR SPORT, TL 4DR SPORT (NAVI/SUMMERTIRE), TL 4DR SPORT (NAVIGATION), TL 4DR SPORT (SUMMER TIRE), TL 4DR TYPE-S, TL 4DR TYPE-S (SUMMER TIRE)
05-24-2011, 01:41 PM
#13
while in first gear(clutch depressed,left foot), place toes on brake pedal and slide heal to gas pedal(right foot). while maintaining pressure on brake pedal, slightly depress gas pedal enough to hear the rpms flare. at same time rpms flare release pressure from clutch pedal enough to feel the car "kick". sometimes even pop the clutch, but usually not required.
good luck
play with this and youll get it.
good luck
play with this and youll get it.
05-24-2011, 08:35 PM
#14
I put a piece of wood on the brake and scooted up the seat to hold the brake down hard. Then I did the test. I did it in first gear and then in reverse. I have to be honest. It doesn't look bad. What do you guys think?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4XNJJ2PNhs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4XNJJ2PNhs
05-25-2011, 03:31 PM
#22
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Sure looks like a lot more movement then I would expect it to do stock.
12-30-2013, 03:21 PM
#23
NCTL05, did you end up changing your mounts? What were the results? I'd love to see the "after" video if you made one.
The side mount on my 04 manual TL literally came out in two separate pieces when I removed it for the timing belt change. I am trying to test my front and rear mounts as well; they look much more painful to get to.
Bringing an old post back from the dead!
The side mount on my 04 manual TL literally came out in two separate pieces when I removed it for the timing belt change. I am trying to test my front and rear mounts as well; they look much more painful to get to.
Bringing an old post back from the dead!
12-30-2013, 03:24 PM
#24
^as mentioned in this thread, the front and side are the first to go.
i abuse my 6MT TL, and when I changed the mounts acouple months ago to the XLR8 75A mounts, i found that the side and front were broken.
the rear was still intact.
and the rear was the hardest to get to, only because I'm short and had to kneel ontop of the engine.
*edit
I'm sure the right tools help too.
i'm sure i could have used an extra drive extension for the ratchet.
i abuse my 6MT TL, and when I changed the mounts acouple months ago to the XLR8 75A mounts, i found that the side and front were broken.
the rear was still intact.
and the rear was the hardest to get to, only because I'm short and had to kneel ontop of the engine.
*edit
I'm sure the right tools help too.
i'm sure i could have used an extra drive extension for the ratchet.
Last edited by justnspace; 12-30-2013 at 03:28 PM.
01-01-2014, 11:59 AM
#25
Mine moves about that much as well andd I'm up in the air if it needs to be replaced. I can't get a definitive answer, so I think I'm just going to change it and call it a day. If it's better, it's better. If not, oh well at least I know it's done.
03-12-2014, 09:01 PM
#26
Instructor
Pardon the "dumb question," but is it necessary to go to all these lengths to see whether mounts need replacement? Isn't there an obvious symptom that can be noticed in real-world driving? Noise, vibration, etc.? My 05 6MT with 110K seems to run about as smoothly as ever, and I don't really relish the idea of attempting the test procedure that's described here...
03-12-2014, 09:03 PM
#27
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
honestly if you cannot feel any difference, then dont change it. if it has no real world benefits, then why spend the money?
when the mounts are really broken, you WILL hear clunks and thats when you have to change it
when the mounts are really broken, you WILL hear clunks and thats when you have to change it
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TLin05 (03-14-2014)
03-12-2014, 09:24 PM
#28
the overexplainer
ditto, no need to do mounts unless you detect something wrong. If it's smooth dont bother.
if you start hearing banging noises when you go over bumps then it might be a sign. I replaced my broken side mount, thought it could be a little smoother and did my front. Front turned out fine.
if you start hearing banging noises when you go over bumps then it might be a sign. I replaced my broken side mount, thought it could be a little smoother and did my front. Front turned out fine.
The following users liked this post:
TLin05 (03-14-2014)
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