Iqbal Ik

hey all i have a 07 type s that had an accident in the front driver side...i had to change the door and fender and bumper...and also my suspension is gone... so i changed the lower control arm and the strut and the knuckle with new bearing...but the wheel is still moved back towards the door...like its not in the middle...what else could be wrong with it? the mechanic said he will remeasure everything again to see what he missed but i cant wait lol...any suggestions?

ps i hope its not the sub frame

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Well, as the upper and lower arms are attached to the subframe and the suspension components were replaced and the wheel is still moved back, looks like the subframe. There are measurements in the FSM to check for out of shape components, but look closely at the attachment points at the front and between the uprights at the rear for any sign of damage to the structure.

You can measure the distance between the center of the left front wheel and the center of the left rear wheel and compare that to the other side. Should be the same.

Iqbal Ik

^ thats wat i was thinking too...oh well i will tell him to measure the sub frame..hopefully its not too big of a job! maybe a simple pull should hopefully do it...cause its only off by like an inch or so..

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Not the right way of doing the job, but you could probably do a pull just to get the wheel back into place.
Many, many years ago I was into the old Ford Fiesta, knew them inside and out. Purchased one where the wheel was pushed back from an accident and car pulled right. Just added some washers on the lower tie bar (bar from lower arm to front crossmember) to pull the lower arm forward and no more problems.
Good Luck

JBONN

Found this thread while searching "sub frame", we had a 30 min blizzard this morning and while I was going through a round about at 15 KM/H I hit a patch of ice and slid into the curb, turns out I bent my subframe...

The shop I took it to quoted me $900 for the subframe and another $650 for labour, luckily (well not really lucky cause this is a pretty shitty situation) I know a guy who can get me the part for $650 and my wife has a friend who owns a shop so he will do it for $500...

Anyways, the best way to check your subframe is to put it on a lift and look at how the mounts line up through the punch outs in the subframe, mine is out by 1/2" on the right side but I am not a fan of trying to bend the aluminum frame back into shape for obvious reasons.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum subframes can be worked, straightened and welded as long as the shop goes by the manual for the specific type of aluminum.