Front Rotors Shot at 27,500 Miles?

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Old 10-10-2008, 09:02 AM
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Front Rotors Shot at 27,500 Miles?

Just got new tires installed on my '07 TL-S yesterday and they informed me that the front rotors were under the minimum spec. They also said the front pads were down to 3/32". They said that rotors are now made to be replaced almost as often as pads! They showed me their spec book, which did not distinguish between a base and S model, and for the front rotor it showed a Nominal: 1.1" and Minimum/Discard: 1.020". That's only 0.080" of use, right? Mine fronts measured 0.940" and 0.942". The really strange thing is that I just had the car into the dealer for an A12 service las week and they said nothing about pads or rotors. Any thoughts? Where can I find the rotor specs?
Old 10-10-2008, 12:06 PM
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I have about 30,000 miles on my 2005 tl with the brembo brake setup, and replaced the pads, they had about 1/3 of the pad left.
The rotors have a lip around the outside edge, so I have some wear, but its not excessive.
I figure it will be time for new rotors by the time the new pads are down to 1/3.

Some places will always try and sell you something, that is why its best to check things yourself, even if you dont do the work.

You can check the pads without even taking the wheels off, and can use a small mirror on a rod (sold at auto parts stores) to see the pads if you cant just look.

If you have a really large lip around the outside edge of the disks, they likely need to be replaced.

Performance cars trade heavy thick rotors for lighter ones for better handling.
Less unsprung weight equals much better handling, braking, and acceleration.

Brett
Old 10-10-2008, 12:12 PM
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I got 06 TL 6MT and my car is right now around 28k miles.
My dealer has been alarming me once my car reached about 20k that my breaks were going low, and on my last oil change ~25k miles, they went to extremes and told me that my front breaks have between 1-2mm left on pads.
I did some research and was able to get OEM rotors and some aftermarket pads for about $200 shipped – very surprised on the price.
I went with my car to my trusted friend who is a car mechanic and has own car shop. We both put the car on a lift to see how things are just to find out that all the dealer talk was simply sale pitch, so they could make easy money.
Since I had the parts ready anyway, we swapped them but original rotors are far from being shot and they easily can be resurfaced and reused (I kept them for my 2nd break job in future) and brake pads had between 3-4 mm on each. With that in mind, I could have had another 5-7k miles (till about 35k) on my original breaks.
The moral of the story is that dealers will do anything just to make more money and up selling unnecessary/unneeded services etc is in their best practice.
Old 10-11-2008, 07:29 AM
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The specs the tire shop were using were for the base, non-Brembo. So I have some rotor life left. Now I have to figure out which pads to go with.
Old 10-12-2008, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jtconte
The specs the tire shop were using were for the base, non-Brembo. So I have some rotor life left. Now I have to figure out which pads to go with.
Yeah, it's 0.91" (23mm) or greater to be serviceable, meaning the rotor can still be turned. My 04 6MT front rotors had 63,500 miles on them when I changed out the original pads and they measured 23.5mm. They were very smooth, so I elected not to have them turned. I did pull them and lightly sanded them with 120 grit sandpaper. I was very happy with the OEM Brembo pads, both in performance and wear, however, I sure didn't care for the dust. I decided to try out the RB ET300 pads (mrheeltoe.com) and I'm totally satisfied. They perform as well as the Brembos with no noise and no dust. I can't yet vouch for longevity or how much they wear the rotors (about 2000 miles so far). They are also only about 2/3 the cost of the Brembos. Do the change yourself, very easy. There's a great link in the garage with scans of the service manual.
Old 10-18-2008, 07:23 PM
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Reason the dealer prefers to replace rotors on the Brembo set up is due to the severe lip that gets cut into the rotor. Nine times outta ten once you machine the rotor enough to get rid of the lip it is close to min spec (23MM) I will be replacing my rotors as well when the time comes whether it be 25k or 65k. min spec on a non Brembo TL is 26mm. So Acura is aware that the Brembos cut deeper but I prefer as much meat as possible on my rotors. Will also prevent premature warping too. All in all replacing is win win.
Old 11-05-2008, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RACINGHART03
Reason the dealer prefers to replace rotors on the Brembo set up is due to the severe lip that gets cut into the rotor. Nine times outta ten once you machine the rotor enough to get rid of the lip it is close to min spec (23MM) I will be replacing my rotors as well when the time comes whether it be 25k or 65k. min spec on a non Brembo TL is 26mm. So Acura is aware that the Brembos cut deeper but I prefer as much meat as possible on my rotors. Will also prevent premature warping too. All in all replacing is win win.
do u got a drop on your car? i got the same car as you. i got some wear on my front right tire. i almost have it maxed out on tein ss coilovers? any suggestinos? and also after miles are up, rotors need to be replaced????
Old 11-06-2008, 09:22 AM
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Just to comment on the brake dust. I couldn't stand the dust from the oem brembo pads, so when mine were done, I went with Carbotech Bobcats (www.ctbrakes.com). I've been using them for years on other car. Great street pads with extremely light dust.
Old 11-06-2008, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by omarb420
do u got a drop on your car? i got the same car as you. i got some wear on my front right tire. i almost have it maxed out on tein ss coilovers? any suggestinos? and also after miles are up, rotors need to be replaced????
You have an alignment done after the drop? Lower the car the more the camber will be out and the more the inside edges wear. Should be even wear on l and r though so thats why I ask.
Old 11-06-2008, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RACINGHART03
You have an alignment done after the drop? Lower the car the more the camber will be out and the more the inside edges wear. Should be even wear on l and r though so thats why I ask.
i had an alignment a couple days after i got it lowered. i added camber kit in rear and arms on the front. Im thinking about shaving the front fender a lil bit cuz i think thats where the ware is happening
Old 11-07-2008, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by omarb420
i had an alignment a couple days after i got it lowered. i added camber kit in rear and arms on the front. Im thinking about shaving the front fender a lil bit cuz i think thats where the ware is happening
oh damn. You think it's rubbing?
Old 11-07-2008, 02:03 PM
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its rubbing in front. how much did you lower yours? what size are those rims?
Old 01-31-2009, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jtconte
Just got new tires installed on my '07 TL-S yesterday and they informed me that the front rotors were under the minimum spec. They also said the front pads were down to 3/32". They said that rotors are now made to be replaced almost as often as pads! They showed me their spec book, which did not distinguish between a base and S model, and for the front rotor it showed a Nominal: 1.1" and Minimum/Discard: 1.020". That's only 0.080" of use, right? Mine fronts measured 0.940" and 0.942". The really strange thing is that I just had the car into the dealer for an A12 service las week and they said nothing about pads or rotors. Any thoughts? Where can I find the rotor specs?
I know this is a little late, but bringinga car in for A12 wouldn't give them permission to look at rotors. You have to think, if a customer was real pickey, they could sue the dealer for doing something they're not supposed to.

Anyways, your rotors are probably shot because you brake too hard. Remember, when you slam on your brakes, you're putting almost all the stopping power in front. On FWD cars, it's a 80/20 or 85/15 braking ratio. You're putting too much stress on the front bro. Ease up on your braking; brake earlier and lighter.
Old 01-31-2009, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Be-in my TL
I know this is a little late, but bringinga car in for A12 wouldn't give them permission to look at rotors. You have to think, if a customer was real pickey, they could sue the dealer for doing something they're not supposed to.

Anyways, your rotors are probably shot because you brake too hard. Remember, when you slam on your brakes, you're putting almost all the stopping power in front. On FWD cars, it's a 80/20 or 85/15 braking ratio. You're putting too much stress on the front bro. Ease up on your braking; brake earlier and lighter.
its part of the inspections that the dealer do to make $$$.
Old 01-31-2009, 11:52 PM
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I have a 04 TL, with about 70K miles and on the first set of brakes. I do brake easy (due to years of trying to maintain speed with my underpowered civic), but that seems like a scarely lot of miles on the first set....I seem to still be stopping ok. I have the brakes checked at about 65K miles and before that at around 50K. Anyone experience the same?
Old 01-31-2009, 11:57 PM
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i have an 06 TL. not sure about my braking life, but the rotors are warped.. I have 59,8xx miles currently on my TL and i bought the car new. Still on my first set of brake pads and rotors.. I don't get how some of your rotors/pads are done at 1/2 the miles i put on my car..
Old 02-01-2009, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ILLustriousUA6
i have an 06 TL. not sure about my braking life, but the rotors are warped.. I have 59,8xx miles currently on my TL and i bought the car new. Still on my first set of brake pads and rotors.. I don't get how some of your rotors/pads are done at 1/2 the miles i put on my car..
just depends where you live and how you drive. Big cities eat though brakes due to stop and go traffic.
Old 02-01-2009, 09:33 AM
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Most of my driving is city driving, not really major but thier are quite alot of lights every half mile or so. I got 6k on the car, i look at the breaks they have like these streaks in them, but other then that they stop fine, i don't really feel a pullsating in the brakes so they can't be warped. When are we supposed to change pads? And when are we supposed to change rotors?
Old 02-01-2009, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TL|GTX
Most of my driving is city driving, not really major but thier are quite alot of lights every half mile or so. I got 6k on the car, i look at the breaks they have like these streaks in them, but other then that they stop fine, i don't really feel a pullsating in the brakes so they can't be warped. When are we supposed to change pads? And when are we supposed to change rotors?
change pads when turning or replacing rotors, or when they are worn down to the spec limits. Replace or cut rotors if warped (pulsing while braking) or replace if past service limit.
Old 01-15-2011, 09:53 AM
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What is a definition of a service limit for rotors? Does it mean they can no longer be cut, or can no longer be used on a car? These are two different things and could mean that if you do not resurface rotors then could squeeze out more life out of them....that's what I'm hoping for
Old 01-15-2011, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Kostyan
What is a definition of a service limit for rotors? Does it mean they can no longer be cut, or can no longer be used on a car?
Yes to both. The service limit and refinishing limit is the same (26mm for AT and 23mm for MT/Brembo).

Originally Posted by Kostyan
These are two different things and could mean that if you do not resurface rotors then could squeeze out more life out of them....that's what I'm hoping for
You should replace them when they are below the service/refinishing spec (as directed by the Service Manual). As rotors get thinner, they are more susceptible to warping due to reduce heat dissipation. Yeah, you can drive beyond the service limit, but it's a calculated risk should you find yourself in an emergency braking situation. Personally, it's not something I'd do, especially since quality rotors can be bought for under $200 and replaced yourself.
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