Fixed my motor mounts today!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-06-2011, 10:46 PM
  #1  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
speedytypes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Fixed my motor mounts today!!

Just replaced my front, rear and side motor mounts with brand new OEM ones, and what a difference!! I love my car again, no more pulling to one side while on the accelerator, and no more shaking at idle. And my shifts feel much smoother. The culprit was my rear and side mounts. The rear was ripped and leaking and the side was in two completely separate pieces. Took me almost 4 hours, and the only hard part was the rear one because of lack of space.
Old 04-06-2011, 11:10 PM
  #2  
Racer
iTrader: (1)
 
usmarinedelta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 489
Received 37 Likes on 26 Posts
so did you replace the front? Also any tips on doing this? the side you mean passenger side right?
Old 04-07-2011, 09:49 AM
  #3  
Instructor
 
invalidalias's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 15 Posts
those new mounts make a world of difference. Did you have trouble with the front one?
Old 04-07-2011, 11:58 AM
  #4  
that ONE RED tl
iTrader: (2)
 
DimwitRj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCaL
Age: 37
Posts: 158
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by DimwitRj
Damn I'm sore as f***. Did all 3 of my mounts yesterday and took my about 4 hours. Even though I was able to utilize my uncle's shop I did 95% of the work because my brother and uncle were busy building a roll cage for another car.

Like you guys said, side was a breeze (I wish they were all that easy). Front wasn't a big deal after removing the radiator fans, I found that I couldn't remove the driver side fan without removing the top hose. The rear was a bitch, just because of the awkward positions you had to be in, other than that, they were all pretty straightforward.

What really gave me a hard time was probably the simple things. Banged up my finger removing the vacuum line from the front mount, and had to do the rear over because I pinched the vacuum line without knowing and tightened down the bolts $#!+.

Another pointer... the front and rear are filled with fluid so if they're cracked... don't turn them upside down. I made that mistake with the front mount while messing with the vacuum line.

Once all is down, enjoy the clunk free driving and rattle free cold morning starts! ...and take some pain relievers the next day because you will be sore.
Here's a quote from my thread on changing my mounts. If yours were as bad as mine, you may want to look at your trans mounts. I have a 5AT that went out the very next day and the trans guy showed me my mounts when he was taking out the trans and they were pretty much toast.
Old 04-07-2011, 12:46 PM
  #5  
Resident Dingo
 
TheDingo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Virginia / Florida
Posts: 1,060
Received 143 Likes on 113 Posts
Good job! Congrats on your "new" ride!
Old 04-07-2011, 01:11 PM
  #6  
the overexplainer
 
ez12a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: OC, CA
Age: 36
Posts: 3,287
Received 385 Likes on 337 Posts
Question, how do you tell if your side mount is broken? Is it if the plastic cap is cracked? when i had mine inspected that was one of the things that needed fixing. I didnt really want to pry the plastic cap off to look but at the same time I wasnt sure if that was a broken mount indicator of some sort.
Old 04-07-2011, 01:37 PM
  #7  
that ONE RED tl
iTrader: (2)
 
DimwitRj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCaL
Age: 37
Posts: 158
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
It could be an indication because I noticed that when my mounts broke, it slightly lowered the motor in the engine bay .25" to .5". If your side mount wasn't broken, that plastic/rubber cap would not have any pressure on it from the top bracket that it connects to, but if the mount was broken, the bracket is pretty much sitting on top of that plastic cap. Hope that makes sense.
Old 04-07-2011, 01:56 PM
  #8  
the overexplainer
 
ez12a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: OC, CA
Age: 36
Posts: 3,287
Received 385 Likes on 337 Posts
yea it does make sense. The weight of the motor is on the plastic cap now. Weird thing is though I can rotate the plastic cap as if there wasnt any weight on it..perhaps it's sitting on the other mounts.

I wasnt sure if the shop cut it open to look inside either. it's a pretty straight line/crack like someone took a dremel to it.

Last edited by ez12a; 04-07-2011 at 01:58 PM.
Old 04-07-2011, 04:24 PM
  #9  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
speedytypes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
changing the front mount was a breeze, all you need is a long extension, i just removed the side(passenger side) and front mount at the same time and was able to lift the motor with a jack and i didnt need to remove the aluminum bracket the holds it to the motor. The only tricky bit was removing the rubber vac hose from the bottom of the mount. The side is simple and could be done at the same time as the front. As for the rear you need to remove the strut tower bar and then you need more some extensions and elbow extensions to get at the far nuts and bolts.
Old 04-08-2011, 06:11 PM
  #10  
Racer
iTrader: (1)
 
usmarinedelta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 489
Received 37 Likes on 26 Posts
Hey speedytypes can you please give me more details on this install, I want to tackle this myself.
1.) Did you have to remove BOTH radiator fans?
2.) Did you have to remove the radiator hose to move the fans?
3.) On a rating scale of 1-10 with 10 being the hardest how do you think the rear is?
4.) Did you remove the rear from underneath the car or on top?
5.) The front mount with the vacumme hose, any tips as you said it was tricky?
6.) Did you noticed anything different after you installed the mounts, meaning do you notice any more vibrations and stuff?

Thanks!
Old 04-09-2011, 09:57 AM
  #11  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
speedytypes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
No I didnt have to remove the rad fans, and no i didnt remove any hoses, and as for the rear i removed it through the top, on the drivers side, I just carefully manuvered it through the hoses and wires. As far as the ride it is 100 times better no more vibrating while standing still, and the engine feels alot smoother, i find myself forgetting to switch gears and driving at a high rpm just because i dont feel or hear the motor. And as for the vacume hose on the front i loosened the front splashguard or whatever its called on the front below the mount and just pulled the vac hose off the hard line first and then just pulled the mount out with it on.
Old 04-10-2011, 12:03 AM
  #12  
Racer
iTrader: (1)
 
usmarinedelta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 489
Received 37 Likes on 26 Posts
When you replaced the mounts what made you do all of them or were they all shot, and which one looked the worse?
Old 04-10-2011, 09:56 PM
  #13  
that ONE RED tl
iTrader: (2)
 
DimwitRj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCaL
Age: 37
Posts: 158
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Speedytypes, I'm impressed.. I couldn't get the front mount out without removing the fans.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TL-Rocket
3G TL (2004-2008)
12
04-29-2023 02:33 AM
Yumcha
Automotive News
9
02-25-2020 09:57 AM
wilztlxs
Car Parts for Sale
7
12-01-2015 09:16 AM
BKSleeper
3G TL Problems & Fixes
21
10-07-2015 10:20 AM
mossman77
1/2G MDX (2001-2013)
18
09-16-2015 12:21 PM



Quick Reply: Fixed my motor mounts today!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:03 PM.