CocheseUGA

I didn't drive my car at all Sunday and Monday it's hard to start. It turned over just fine then and every time since, but it feels like it's digging deep down to find that juice. I had the battery tested, and when it was, it had half of it's CCAs available. Did a full charge on it today at the store and started up fine. 30 minutes later at home, it's back to what it was doing.

The test said the alternator was fine, but that's what it said about the battery too.

I also started noticing a dip in the RPMs when I engage the clutch and it winds down, to about 4-500 RPM, where idle is usually 650-800. It comes back up right away.

And after getting the battery out and back in, my preset buttons (physical, not screen) don't work on my HD Radio (HDRT w/ my PXAMG). They work on the CDs, and AM/FM (which is disconnected), and even SAT, but not on HD Radio. So I don't think it's so much to do with the vehicle, but either the PXAMG or HDRT. Any help here would be appreciated though, before I'm forced to rip out the HDRT module. I'll probably put an email in to iSimple.

Thanks in advance.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

They aren't very helpful...I have the problem that when my isimple is connected and I put it on XM channel...the radio completely ignores me. They tried to blame the car. Not the item they make that I added. Anyway...good luck, that sounds odd. What about that sensor that everyone says goes bad...APP sensor or something like that...the one that senses the pedal position. Maybe?

CocheseUGA

PXAMG might be fixed. Had to program the presets into the screen for it to register. Forgot about that one.

The idle issue might be fixed as well. Didn't know there was an idle procedure, and it seems to be bak to normal. Doesn't quite answer the riddle though.

As for the battery, I dunno. I pulled the HFL fuse, but I don't think that's it. It works for me, and didn't seem to register while the car was off and a test call was made. May investigate further this weekend. Also may investigate corrosion possibility in the cables. It did have a decent amount on the terminals.

csmeance

After the battery is disconnected, you need to start the car with all the accessories off like A/C and let it idle for a few minutes (until the cooling fan comes on). This helps the car relearn it's idle speed.

It sounds like you battery is at the end of it's life and isn't holding a charge vs. it being the alternator.

CocheseUGA

Battery would be the simple solution, but would hope it would last more than 11 months.

csmeance

is it an acura battery? Also do you have a volt meter or multi-meter by any chance? If you have one, with the car off measure the voltage across the terminals, it should be 12.2V or very close to it, if not that would explain a lack of power to start the car. Then turn the car on and it should read 14.4V. If it does not read 14.4 that means the car is not charging the battery.

CocheseUGA

It's an Autocraft Gold, bought I believe in July of last year. I'll check the voltage after work.

Also, now my dash clock won't sync with the GPS clock, I'll have to go into diagnostic mode and see what's up. It's sounding more and more like I have the HFL drain...

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Chris, this is a very common potential failure in batteries. I would get it replaced.

CocheseUGA

The battery or the HFL?

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Sorry. The battery.

I define potential failure for batteries as 40% of the available CCA when brand new. Once it reaches that point, it's only a matter of time before it will not hold a charge.

CocheseUGA

I don't know if it was quite that low, but it was close. 48 or 51%, depending on if it was rated at 650 or 700. Battery is made by Johnson Controls, the same morons who made the HFL.

I'm going to see about a couple of things when I get back to the store this afternoon, including on if they'll match Amazon's price for the Optima Yellow. If they will, I want to pay the difference and get that one. If not, if they will just refund the money I paid and I'll order from Amazon.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

Good deal.

What prices are you seeing for the YellowTop?

CocheseUGA

$172.xx @ Amazon. $220+ at Advance (where I got this battery from). I read elsewhere that AAP matched Amazon in another instance, I hope they'll do the same here. Then it would just be $100 out of pocket.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Do a quick search for the Optima. There is a deal somewhere about it.

I have the Premium battery from O reily and it is still going strong for 32 months.

CocheseUGA

Had them test it again - bad cell. All is well again, thanks for your help.