Originally Posted by TacoBello

2. Bleeding: THE PROPER WAY TO BLEED THE CLUTCH.

Everywhere I looked and read on here, people were suggesting to pump the pedal multiple times. It's a hydraulic system. It doesn't build more pressure, the more you pump it!! A friend of mine is a certified Honda mechanic and told me how to do it properly:

1. Once everything is reinstalled, fill up the clutch fluid reservoir.

2. Get someone to help you. you can do it alone, but it takes more time and more effort.

3. Open the bleeder valve on the CSC. I found holding my wrench at an angle worked best. That way you don't have to remove it from the valve. Just 1/4 to 1/2 turn should suffice. leave it open, let it start slowly leaking fluid in the engine bay.

4. Have your helper beside the car, on the floor, and with their hand, have them SLOWLY push the pedal to the floor. It will stay on the floor, but have them keep pressure on it anyway. DO NOT move the pedal fast. All you do is cause the air in the lines to break into thousands of bubbles, as opposed to sitting as one solid air bubble. Note: you will be leaking brake fluid into the engine bay, but there is nothing for the fluid to destroy down there. You will also be dripping fluid on the floor. No biggie. I just put my oil change pan down there to collect it all. After I was done, I just went to the car wash and sprayed my engine bay clean, where the fluid was dripping.

5. Once the pedal is on the floor, close the bleeder valve.

6. Have your helper SLOWLY lift the pedal up to the top again, and hold it there.

7. reopen the bleeder valve again, and have your helper slowly push the pedal to the ground.

8. Repeat steps 5-7 a good 20 times!

For the 3 CMCs I installed (the failing original, the junky aftermarket one, the good new OEM one), in each instance, I had to do the open/close procedure a good 20 times before the air was all out. In fact, for the first 7-10 times, it feels and looks like nothing is happening at all. Don't worry. The fluid is slowly making its way down the line. You are doing it right.

9. on the last cycle, I would close the bleeder valve half way through the process of the clutch pedal being pushed down, just to ensure no air got back in. Not totally necessary, but hey, that's how I did it.

10. You will now have to restrain the CSC. That rubber flexible boot on the CSC MUST be restrained, using a "block of wood" as per the service manual. I had a spare wooden broom stick that I cut down to about 22.5", I believe. As per Rockstar143's idea, I put the stick on the CSC, and the other side I wedged between against the left inner wheel (not the tire, but the actual metal surface). I had the wheel turned to the left, put the stick in place, and I cut it to a length that would allow my steering column to lock with the wheels facing straight ahead when I pulled the key out of the ignition. You have to do this as there is likely just a wee bit of air trapped in the CSC. By restraining it, you're able to push it all out.

11. Once the CSC is restrained, follow steps 5-7 again, maybe another 3-5 times, just to be sure all the air is out.

Make sure that at all times there is appropriate amount of fluid in the reservoir at all times, otherwise you'll reintroduce air back into the system and you'll have to do this all over again. doing the bleeding process a full 25 cycles, I think I may have had to refill the reservoir 1.5 times. It does not use a lot of fluid at all.

Originally Posted by ACURAte_tiTLe

It's normal for there to be no resistance, the pedal will fall to the floor. The bleed procedure is the same. Use the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

When I replaced my master and slave cylinders, I followed this procedure to bleed the clutch: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...system-954199/
Clutch pedal firmed up after about 5 cycles, and there were no air bubbles left after about 30 cycles. The gravity bleed method and the method in the service manual did not work for me.