dajuiceman

i've had my tl 3rd gen since december i love my 6 spd. lately since i've added my injen cold air intake sometimes my clutch has been hard pressing in and then it takes etra force for me to shift in gear and to keep shifting my clutch is sticking closer to the floor. when i get it into gear almost as soon as i start backing off on the clutch its in gear. sometimes i have to use my foot to bring it back to where its suppose to be. Has anyone had this problem???

triax37

iTrader: (1)

My quick diagnosis is that your clutch fluid is low. Maybe the master or slave cylinders were leaking before you bought it (more likely), or while installing the cold air intake it got bumped around (less likely). Pop off the engine cover in front of the steering wheel, and look at the fluid level (the owner's manual has a diagram). If it's low, add some fluid (same as the brake fluid) and pump the pedal several times. Hopefully that should address the problem temporarily, but you'll probably need someone to look at the master/slave cylinders to see if they are leaking.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639004
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=477761

ez12a

check fluids, but sounds like something's wrong with the master cylinder.

what's happening is your pedal isnt disengaging the clutch fully which is causing your shifting difficulties.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

is this only happening on High Revs!?
if so, your clutch is about to go.

Replace it.
I had the same symptoms. after a high rev to redline, my clutch pedal got really stiff was to the floor.
I replaced the clutch and all is good!

dajuiceman

its happening from a stop, going into first and and second if i don't pump it or pull it out before i change gears. i'll check my fluids tomorrow when the sun comes back up. thanks a lot guys, just got 4 new tires can't afford a new clutch until i get paid again.

dajuiceman

ok my fluid level is fine, i did get my brake fluid changed at firestone when i got my new tires.... i wonder if they put the wrong type in my brakes and my clutch and its finally affecting my car???

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^no.

either the master cylinder is going or you need to change your clutch

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Master cylinder is pretty cheap ( $60-80 ) and you can remove the check valve from the new MC to improve shifts. You should try to have that replaced or atleast looked at first.

Kikirra

The check valve is in the slave cylinder. Or is there a check valve in both?

Elite1982

its your clutch...i had similiar symptoms and i kept driving because after the first few shifts it would get better...but eventually i got stuck somewhere...so you might want to change that asap

xmrgoodcatx

iTrader: (1)

I am sure you most likely figured it out, but as others have said check the fluid level. If it is low then add fluid and I would bleed the line. If there is enough fluid bleed the line. If the line has been bleed and the problem still exists, the master cylinder probably has failed, Otherwise its probably time to replace your clutch.

It is recommended to replace both the Clutch Master and Slave cylinder together.

xmrgoodcatx

iTrader: (1)

It might not be a clutch, I have had similar symptoms in an integra and prelude. In both the master cylinder failed, one leaked the other didn't. Another time in the integra the slave cylinder failed. The pedal would either stick to the floor or I had to pump the pedal several times before there was enough pressure to release the clutch.

Andreask

I have an 07 TL-S with 100K on it and have recently noticed the clutch difficult to depress after hard acceleration. After reading some posts I thought master cylinder or low fluid, but I noticed the same problem when I revved the engine when I was not moving with the clutch depressed. After a few pumps I'm back to normal. The dealer is clueless. My theory (stay tuned as my car is in the shop) is that an engine torque damper(s) is/are dead, causing too much play when I jam on it, and this is crimping the clutch hydraulic lines.