Clutch chatter while cruising, and a weird intermittent popping noise from clutch1
06-25-2017, 03:39 PM
#1
Clutch chatter while cruising, and a weird intermittent popping noise from clutch1
I had my clutch replaced just over a year ago with the LUK kit, and also had a new flywheel put in along with it. 2006 TL manual.
At various times (but particularly when it's warmer out), I get a chattering noise (like a little bird tweeting/chirping away) while cruising along. If just place my foot on the clutch pedal (the amount of pressure is almost zero) as lightly as I can manage, the chatter goes away! It's particularly easy to hear at lower speeds around town. Can't hear at all on the highway.
The other thing is that when releasing the clutch (after the pedal is released completely) there's somethings a springy kind of "pop" noise. It sounds like.. something springing into place. Until that noise happens, the clutch isn't fully engaged. This is intermittent and sounds kind of what.. if you drive on gravel and one little rock bounces and hits the bottom of your car. This noise is definitely clutch related.
These two things could be the manifestation of the same problem. I believe both of them had started almost immediately after the clutch was put in and have stayed relatively constant.
At various times (but particularly when it's warmer out), I get a chattering noise (like a little bird tweeting/chirping away) while cruising along. If just place my foot on the clutch pedal (the amount of pressure is almost zero) as lightly as I can manage, the chatter goes away! It's particularly easy to hear at lower speeds around town. Can't hear at all on the highway.
The other thing is that when releasing the clutch (after the pedal is released completely) there's somethings a springy kind of "pop" noise. It sounds like.. something springing into place. Until that noise happens, the clutch isn't fully engaged. This is intermittent and sounds kind of what.. if you drive on gravel and one little rock bounces and hits the bottom of your car. This noise is definitely clutch related.
These two things could be the manifestation of the same problem. I believe both of them had started almost immediately after the clutch was put in and have stayed relatively constant.
06-26-2017, 12:06 PM
#3
That's what the shop that did the install suspects - as a part defect.
The guy from the tranny shop I went to for a second opinion said he has never seen the throwout bearing go on a LUK clutch almost right away like that.
Does it make sense for the chattering noise to go away when fingertip type pressure is applied to the clutch pedal - why? Also I have a feeling that this clutch just catches a bit too aggressively, if this is of any relevance.
The guy from the tranny shop I went to for a second opinion said he has never seen the throwout bearing go on a LUK clutch almost right away like that.
Does it make sense for the chattering noise to go away when fingertip type pressure is applied to the clutch pedal - why? Also I have a feeling that this clutch just catches a bit too aggressively, if this is of any relevance.
06-27-2017, 08:26 PM
#5
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IvanAndreevich (06-30-2017)
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06-29-2017, 07:36 AM
#8
Not necessarily going bad. The PP fingers could be contacting the throwout bearing when turning, but when light pressure applied to clutch pedal, the T/O bearing turns and noise stops. If T/O bearing were bad, the noise would be heard when the pedal depressed as that's when it begins to do its job.
Not familiar with the "automatic" adjusting system, but if there is a way to increase T/O brg to PP clearance, I'd give it a try first, but with the "pop" noise, there's always the clutch fork, clutch release spring assembly possibility.
Actually see that the self adjusting system is within the clutch assembly.
Not familiar with the "automatic" adjusting system, but if there is a way to increase T/O brg to PP clearance, I'd give it a try first, but with the "pop" noise, there's always the clutch fork, clutch release spring assembly possibility.
Actually see that the self adjusting system is within the clutch assembly.
Last edited by Turbonut; 06-29-2017 at 07:50 AM.
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06-29-2017, 08:02 AM
#9
Need to check pedal adjustment as specified in the FSM. Make certain free play correct.
If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will be held against the diaphragm spring which can lead to clutch problems.
Loosen clutch pedal pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod in/out to get the specified height, stroke, freeplay and disengagement height at the clutch pedal.
Free Play .39-.71"
Pedal Stroke 5.12-5.51"
Pedal Height 7.52"
Disengagement Height 3.56"
Geez, I wish my scanner was working!
If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will be held against the diaphragm spring which can lead to clutch problems.
Loosen clutch pedal pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod in/out to get the specified height, stroke, freeplay and disengagement height at the clutch pedal.
Free Play .39-.71"
Pedal Stroke 5.12-5.51"
Pedal Height 7.52"
Disengagement Height 3.56"
Geez, I wish my scanner was working!
The following users liked this post:
IvanAndreevich (06-30-2017)
06-29-2017, 09:21 PM
#10
Not necessarily going bad. The PP fingers could be contacting the throwout bearing when turning, but when light pressure applied to clutch pedal, the T/O bearing turns and noise stops. If T/O bearing were bad, the noise would be heard when the pedal depressed as that's when it begins to do its job.
Not familiar with the "automatic" adjusting system, but if there is a way to increase T/O brg to PP clearance, I'd give it a try first, but with the "pop" noise, there's always the clutch fork, clutch release spring assembly possibility.
Actually see that the self adjusting system is within the clutch assembly.
Not familiar with the "automatic" adjusting system, but if there is a way to increase T/O brg to PP clearance, I'd give it a try first, but with the "pop" noise, there's always the clutch fork, clutch release spring assembly possibility.
Actually see that the self adjusting system is within the clutch assembly.
the pop noise is very likely the clutch master cylinder. They have a TSB for it and a new part number. I changed mine and popping stopped. The chirping however is different. I had the exact same thing but the car died before i could look into it. Don't know now if it was the clutch or engine... oh well. That's why i suggested checking engine oil, if it's low lifters can chirp/tick.
06-30-2017, 06:46 PM
#11
Wow thanks for various input, guys.
Definitely not oil level in the engine, and it's clearly affected by applying slight pressure to the clutch pedal. It's persisted through multiple oil changes. Hence, I don't think the oil level can be a cause.
It makes sense that the chattering sound on a going bad bearing goes away completely when fingertip pressure is applied to an engaged clutch in gear?
Right now, it feels like there is uhh.. zero free play? Since something is affected by fingertip pressure from the beginning enough to affect the noise coming from it.
Definitely not oil level in the engine, and it's clearly affected by applying slight pressure to the clutch pedal. It's persisted through multiple oil changes. Hence, I don't think the oil level can be a cause.
Need to check pedal adjustment as specified in the FSM. Make certain free play correct.
If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will be held against the diaphragm spring which can lead to clutch problems.
Loosen clutch pedal pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod in/out to get the specified height, stroke, freeplay and disengagement height at the clutch pedal.
Free Play .39-.71"
Pedal Stroke 5.12-5.51"
Pedal Height 7.52"
Disengagement Height 3.56"
If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will be held against the diaphragm spring which can lead to clutch problems.
Loosen clutch pedal pushrod locknut and turn the pushrod in/out to get the specified height, stroke, freeplay and disengagement height at the clutch pedal.
Free Play .39-.71"
Pedal Stroke 5.12-5.51"
Pedal Height 7.52"
Disengagement Height 3.56"
09-15-2017, 05:31 AM
#13
I'm interested as well.
my previous TL with a 1 month old LUK clutch + flywheel had this ticking/bird chirping noise on idle and the slightest pressure on the clutch pedal remedied the noise instantly. I never got to the bottom of it because as I drove it one morning, the whole engine starting making a much louder ticking/chirping noise. The next time I took the car out it completely shut off on me while cruising and didn't want to start back up. Didn't have time to diagnose so I sold the car, wasn't too hard selling since it was a 6MT.
my previous TL with a 1 month old LUK clutch + flywheel had this ticking/bird chirping noise on idle and the slightest pressure on the clutch pedal remedied the noise instantly. I never got to the bottom of it because as I drove it one morning, the whole engine starting making a much louder ticking/chirping noise. The next time I took the car out it completely shut off on me while cruising and didn't want to start back up. Didn't have time to diagnose so I sold the car, wasn't too hard selling since it was a 6MT.
09-15-2017, 11:00 AM
#14
Race Director
I know there have been documented cases of the fingers being knocked out of adjustment during shipping of Luk components. If the shop doesn't use the tool to reset adjustment before installation, it can cause issues. Not sure if that could be a factor in this case?