Clunking sound when turning wheel
#1
Clunking sound when turning wheel
Hey everyone, I was hoping someone could help me out with a problem I am having with my 2007 Acura TL
I recently got new tires, breaks, and alignment and ever since then I have been hearing a clunking/popping sound when I turn my wheel to the right and left. Its not noticeable when driving but upon slowing down and breaking completely I can hear it again, even with out turning the wheel...I took it back to the shop and they put a new adjustable ball joint on and I still have the problem. They said they don't know what it is and want to charge me over 400$+ to take a look at the steering gear box ect.
Has anyone had any problems like this, or think they may know whats going on..
THANKS!!
I recently got new tires, breaks, and alignment and ever since then I have been hearing a clunking/popping sound when I turn my wheel to the right and left. Its not noticeable when driving but upon slowing down and breaking completely I can hear it again, even with out turning the wheel...I took it back to the shop and they put a new adjustable ball joint on and I still have the problem. They said they don't know what it is and want to charge me over 400$+ to take a look at the steering gear box ect.
Has anyone had any problems like this, or think they may know whats going on..
THANKS!!
#2
Team Owner
I just have to clarify first...
When you say slowing down and braking completely, do you mean when the car comes to a complete stop and the front end comes up?
This did not start until after the alignment, brakes, and tires?
If so, I would put some pressure on the shop that did the work. If nothing else, they will tell you what's wrong to get the blame off of them.
Since you had some serious work done I would have someone you trust check the basics right away if the shop won't. Lugnuts tight, no steering components left loose. They have to loosen the front subframe to do an alignment and it's always possible that can be loose. It happened to me. In fact, I had a couple suspension failures where the tire and suspension assembly came off due to the "tech" using a wrong nut. Make sure the brake calipers are tight.
Once you're sure there's no safety issues I would start with lower balljoints, shocks (especially the tophats where they mount to the car), swaybar end links and bushings.
Diagnosing the rack which you said they mentioned is a 10 minute job and it can usually be done visually. That's way too much money.
How does the car drive?
When you say slowing down and braking completely, do you mean when the car comes to a complete stop and the front end comes up?
This did not start until after the alignment, brakes, and tires?
If so, I would put some pressure on the shop that did the work. If nothing else, they will tell you what's wrong to get the blame off of them.
Since you had some serious work done I would have someone you trust check the basics right away if the shop won't. Lugnuts tight, no steering components left loose. They have to loosen the front subframe to do an alignment and it's always possible that can be loose. It happened to me. In fact, I had a couple suspension failures where the tire and suspension assembly came off due to the "tech" using a wrong nut. Make sure the brake calipers are tight.
Once you're sure there's no safety issues I would start with lower balljoints, shocks (especially the tophats where they mount to the car), swaybar end links and bushings.
Diagnosing the rack which you said they mentioned is a 10 minute job and it can usually be done visually. That's way too much money.
How does the car drive?
#3
Yes, when I come to a complete stop. And yeah, I noticed this after getting the tires and alignment ect. I have owned the car for almost three years, and have never had any problems. .
So I took the car back and they said they would check out the sound, when I came to pick it up they told me that none of their techs heard anything, so upon leaving I still heard it. I had them get in the car with me and they of course noticed it then. They jacked the right side of the car up and apparently when they put pressure on or around the boot (not positive) the cracking sound was non existent when turning the wheel...But they said they had no idea and it would cost $400, about 4 hours of work... That sounded crazy to me too...
Thanks for the advice, I will definitely get the basics checked out, I suppose I should just take it to Acura, but then who knows who how much they will charge to check.
Besides the cracking sound, the car drives perfect...
So I took the car back and they said they would check out the sound, when I came to pick it up they told me that none of their techs heard anything, so upon leaving I still heard it. I had them get in the car with me and they of course noticed it then. They jacked the right side of the car up and apparently when they put pressure on or around the boot (not positive) the cracking sound was non existent when turning the wheel...But they said they had no idea and it would cost $400, about 4 hours of work... That sounded crazy to me too...
Thanks for the advice, I will definitely get the basics checked out, I suppose I should just take it to Acura, but then who knows who how much they will charge to check.
Besides the cracking sound, the car drives perfect...
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