Car Won't start (not battery related)
#1
Car Won't start (not battery related)
Ok so I should start from the beginning. A few weeks ago while driving my CEL was on(I knew an O2 sensor needed replacing), however the car started misfiring and my CEL started flashing and when I finally shut it off and tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. I also remember smelling a lot of gas when I opened the hood.
When I was able to get a diagnostic tool, it didn't pull any codes. Now, It could be that it was wiped clean when the battery was disconnected why it's not pulling codes, tho I've been told it should still be able to.
The mechanic said it's either the cam or crank sensor, so I bought both and he switched them out and now... still won't start. The battery is good and the mechanic also says the coil packs are good. At this point he now thinks it's the fuel relay has gone bad.
Has anyone here experienced something similar? I'd hate to get a fuel sensor only for him to then tell me that didn't work and try to guess something else.
When I was able to get a diagnostic tool, it didn't pull any codes. Now, It could be that it was wiped clean when the battery was disconnected why it's not pulling codes, tho I've been told it should still be able to.
The mechanic said it's either the cam or crank sensor, so I bought both and he switched them out and now... still won't start. The battery is good and the mechanic also says the coil packs are good. At this point he now thinks it's the fuel relay has gone bad.
Has anyone here experienced something similar? I'd hate to get a fuel sensor only for him to then tell me that didn't work and try to guess something else.
#4
it tries to crank over but it just doesn't fully do so and start, but no clicking or dead silence, it does try to crank yet for some reason it doesn't.
I had an old Integra that did the samething and that was the fuel relay, but with the TL, because of the misfiring I'm wondering if it's not something else?
I had an old Integra that did the samething and that was the fuel relay, but with the TL, because of the misfiring I'm wondering if it's not something else?
#6
Race Director
Ok so I should start from the beginning. A few weeks ago while driving my CEL was on(I knew an O2 sensor needed replacing), however the car started misfiring and my CEL started flashing and when I finally shut it off and tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. I also remember smelling a lot of gas when I opened the hood.
When I was able to get a diagnostic tool, it didn't pull any codes. Now, It could be that it was wiped clean when the battery was disconnected why it's not pulling codes, tho I've been told it should still be able to.
The mechanic said it's either the cam or crank sensor, so I bought both and he switched them out and now... still won't start. The battery is good and the mechanic also says the coil packs are good. At this point he now thinks it's the fuel relay has gone bad.
Has anyone here experienced something similar? I'd hate to get a fuel sensor only for him to then tell me that didn't work and try to guess something else.
When I was able to get a diagnostic tool, it didn't pull any codes. Now, It could be that it was wiped clean when the battery was disconnected why it's not pulling codes, tho I've been told it should still be able to.
The mechanic said it's either the cam or crank sensor, so I bought both and he switched them out and now... still won't start. The battery is good and the mechanic also says the coil packs are good. At this point he now thinks it's the fuel relay has gone bad.
Has anyone here experienced something similar? I'd hate to get a fuel sensor only for him to then tell me that didn't work and try to guess something else.
You really need to take it to the dealer or a mechanic that has access to the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) to get a proper diagnosis. It's possible that an ECM reflash may fix the issue...
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#8
Ok So UPDATE:
Changed out the fuel relay this morning and STILL WOULDN'T START! The mechanic hooked up another diagnostic to the computer and nothing. He changed a fuse and I noticed smoke coming from the car. The rear coil pack was smoking. After trying to take it out, we discovered that it had completely melted an caused a mess insde so currently they're in the process of taking that out, so now I guess the next question is: What would cause the coil pack to melt like that and for the fuse to blow?
Changed out the fuel relay this morning and STILL WOULDN'T START! The mechanic hooked up another diagnostic to the computer and nothing. He changed a fuse and I noticed smoke coming from the car. The rear coil pack was smoking. After trying to take it out, we discovered that it had completely melted an caused a mess insde so currently they're in the process of taking that out, so now I guess the next question is: What would cause the coil pack to melt like that and for the fuse to blow?
#9
Race Director
Bad ECU. May have been fried by the known issue of the A/C drain tube being blocked and water backing up/dripping into the ECU.
#10
The car was originally from PA, it wa sitting for months up there in winter before being bought and carried down here to FL. Bad ECU... ah bwoy dealer wants $900 for it, better start looking around...
#11
Ok so went back down to the shop, they had checked the ECU before I got there and nfnsquared it was as you said, ECU is no good. Ordered a replacement, should be here by next weekend at latest.
#12
Race Director
Do a search in the other ECU/water threads. Someone posted a picture of the drain tube location. It's on the passenger side near/in front of the firewall. If you find a screw or some other installed blockage, then you might have a case against your oil change shop. (or you could be SOL if it's been there a long time....i.e. before you acquired the car).
If there's no obvious blockage, you still should blow/clean it out. Others have had a spider make a nest in the tube or just road debris stuck up the tube.
Good luck on the repair and sorry it ended up being the expensive fix...
Last edited by nfnsquared; 10-07-2012 at 11:11 AM.
#13
Tbh they haven't opened the dash and gone in there, they used the diagnostic tool to determine that the ECU is no good. When the new ECU comes in they'll pull down the dash. Now, according to the mechanic, he feels that the coil was bad and it caused a short somewhere that damaged the ecu.
I explained to him the whole water damage ecu, and he says we'll see once they open up the dash, but yeah going to make sure that the lines clear
I explained to him the whole water damage ecu, and he says we'll see once they open up the dash, but yeah going to make sure that the lines clear
#14
They installed the replacement ECU, but let me ask you this- does the new ECU need to be flashed at the Acura dealer? Reason I ask is because these guys at the mechanic shop are claiming they programmed the ECU but it's still not starting.
#17
Race Director
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Manimal_Forever (10-16-2012)
#18
MMkay.
iTrader: (2)
^ agreed. They should have never replaced cam or crank sensors without a proper diagnosis.
Im also curious to how they're "diagnosing" all these parts.
how did they come to the conclusion it was the ECU..
I don't know how much you've paid so far,
but FYI: the dealership chargers 1 hour for labor on a PROPER HDS Diagnosis...no ifs/buts about what needs replacing.
Im also curious to how they're "diagnosing" all these parts.
how did they come to the conclusion it was the ECU..
I don't know how much you've paid so far,
but FYI: the dealership chargers 1 hour for labor on a PROPER HDS Diagnosis...no ifs/buts about what needs replacing.
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Manimal_Forever (10-16-2012)
#20
#21
Race Director
I'd take the old ECU in to the dealer and have them look at it. I'd be a bit concerned that maybe your (seemingly clueless) mechanic fried the ECU, ... Just saying....
#22
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