Manimal_Forever

Ok so I should start from the beginning. A few weeks ago while driving my CEL was on(I knew an O2 sensor needed replacing), however the car started misfiring and my CEL started flashing and when I finally shut it off and tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. I also remember smelling a lot of gas when I opened the hood.

When I was able to get a diagnostic tool, it didn't pull any codes. Now, It could be that it was wiped clean when the battery was disconnected why it's not pulling codes, tho I've been told it should still be able to.

The mechanic said it's either the cam or crank sensor, so I bought both and he switched them out and now... still won't start. The battery is good and the mechanic also says the coil packs are good. At this point he now thinks it's the fuel relay has gone bad.

Has anyone here experienced something similar? I'd hate to get a fuel sensor only for him to then tell me that didn't work and try to guess something else.

Manimal_Forever

Should also add this is a 2004 TL and I have also replaced the bad O2 sensor

3GNBPTL

Does it try to start/crank? or is it just dead silent? Any clicking?

Manimal_Forever

it tries to crank over but it just doesn't fully do so and start, but no clicking or dead silence, it does try to crank yet for some reason it doesn't.

I had an old Integra that did the samething and that was the fuel relay, but with the TL, because of the misfiring I'm wondering if it's not something else?

roof2006

The misfiring makes it sound like the car's badly out of tune. I'd make sure that part's correct before I started buying random parts and slapping them on.

nfnsquared

Hate to suggest it, but sounds like it could be an ECM issue. A flashing MIL indicates a misfire that is rapid enough to damage the cats. It should also set a DTC of one or more of P300-P306. The DTC's should be stored in the ECM's non-volatile memory and will remain even if the battery connection is lost for a time.

You really need to take it to the dealer or a mechanic that has access to the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) to get a proper diagnosis. It's possible that an ECM reflash may fix the issue...

Manimal_Forever

Thanks for the input. If it doesn't start after changing the fuel relay I'm going to tow it to the dealer and go from there. I'll post updates, wish me luck!

Manimal_Forever

Ok So UPDATE:
Changed out the fuel relay this morning and STILL WOULDN'T START! The mechanic hooked up another diagnostic to the computer and nothing. He changed a fuse and I noticed smoke coming from the car. The rear coil pack was smoking. After trying to take it out, we discovered that it had completely melted an caused a mess insde so currently they're in the process of taking that out, so now I guess the next question is: What would cause the coil pack to melt like that and for the fuse to blow?

nfnsquared

Bad ECU. May have been fried by the known issue of the A/C drain tube being blocked and water backing up/dripping into the ECU.

Manimal_Forever

The car was originally from PA, it wa sitting for months up there in winter before being bought and carried down here to FL. Bad ECU... ah bwoy dealer wants $900 for it, better start looking around...

Manimal_Forever

Ok so went back down to the shop, they had checked the ECU before I got there and nfnsquared it was as you said, ECU is no good. Ordered a replacement, should be here by next weekend at latest.

nfnsquared

Sorry to hear that. Was it rusted/corroded from obvious water damage? If so, you need to be sure the drainage issue is fixed before installing the new ECU.

Do a search in the other ECU/water threads. Someone posted a picture of the drain tube location. It's on the passenger side near/in front of the firewall. If you find a screw or some other installed blockage, then you might have a case against your oil change shop. (or you could be SOL if it's been there a long time....i.e. before you acquired the car).

If there's no obvious blockage, you still should blow/clean it out. Others have had a spider make a nest in the tube or just road debris stuck up the tube.

Good luck on the repair and sorry it ended up being the expensive fix...

Manimal_Forever

Tbh they haven't opened the dash and gone in there, they used the diagnostic tool to determine that the ECU is no good. When the new ECU comes in they'll pull down the dash. Now, according to the mechanic, he feels that the coil was bad and it caused a short somewhere that damaged the ecu.

I explained to him the whole water damage ecu, and he says we'll see once they open up the dash, but yeah going to make sure that the lines clear

Manimal_Forever

They installed the replacement ECU, but let me ask you this- does the new ECU need to be flashed at the Acura dealer? Reason I ask is because these guys at the mechanic shop are claiming they programmed the ECU but it's still not starting.

Jesstzn

Hate to say it but maybe its time to bite the bullet and take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

Manimal_Forever

Yeah at this point- off to the dealer i go...

nfnsquared

Ditto.

And what about the old ECU? Any sign of water damage?

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

^ agreed. They should have never replaced cam or crank sensors without a proper diagnosis.
Im also curious to how they're "diagnosing" all these parts.
how did they come to the conclusion it was the ECU..
I don't know how much you've paid so far,
but FYI: the dealership chargers 1 hour for labor on a PROPER HDS Diagnosis...no ifs/buts about what needs replacing.

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

Good luck.

Manimal_Forever

I believe so yes, it was fried tho, the chips were bubbled when i popped it open and i saw a huge spark mark as well

nfnsquared

I'd take the old ECU in to the dealer and have them look at it. I'd be a bit concerned that maybe your (seemingly clueless) mechanic fried the ECU, ... Just saying....

Manimal_Forever

Not a bad idea, at this point I just want this nightmare over with.