InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

so recently i filled up at a hess with 93( not by choice). not 5 miles later i get a CEL. take it to autozone read codes p0300-306 for random misfires and misfires on all cylinders. so i put in seafoam, lucus gas cleaner, STP fuel complete fuel system cleaner and i still have a CEL. i've reset it at times and 1 mile later comes back on. at other times i've reset it and 40 miles later it comes on. i've seen it flashing a couple of times too notifing me its misfireing. i've check front three spark plugs (brand new) and coils and they are good ( its raining, cant do rear three right now) wasted that tank of gas refilled on good gas and CEL is still there. checked all sensor connections made sure tight. when CEL is on i can feel the engine not running properly but right now its fine and i just cleared the cel. gonna waste this tank of gas and see if it comes back up. is there something else i should look into before i take it to a mechanic or should i just take it to the mechanic now? car has 75K.

oh and about car shutting. its happened slowly moving in reverse, forward, turning, and going 40MPH (a/c on and clutch in about to shift gears each time).

i have extended 3rd party warranty so whatever is easiest would be the way.

all help is really appreciated. Thanks.

Schulminator

iTrader: (2)

You might of got gas w/water..I filled up mine the day after a downpour and it immedialty started to hesitate slightly, no cel..
I got a bottle of HEET from Autozone, which removes water vapors from our gas. It might be worth a try for $3.00.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

i'll try. light came back on after 68 miles today. still have 1/4 tank of gas trying to waste it to put in some more chemicals.

mlassek

it can sometimes take up to 3 tanks of gas to recover from 1 bad tank. go to sunoco or shell for your next few tanks

Majofo

Cats =



I wouldn't drive another mile on that crap.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

taking it to mechanic. cleaned with everything i can think of.

jnice

iTrader: (1)

dude yesterday as i was driving the car on manual mode around 6500 rpm my cel started flashing then stood on i have codes p0108 map/boro circuit high input, p0301 cyl 1 mis fire, p0305 cyl 5 mis fire and the p0300 u got random multiple cyl mis fire does anyone know what is wrong keep me posted

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

yea i'll let you know. you atleast have a different code other than 300's that you can have a starting lead with. 300 and 301-306 dont give me any clues to a single problem. it could literally be anything.

hamsup

ive got the same thing..though mine is only a cyl 4 misfire..but for the first time this morning, it stalled while i was approaching a stop sign...
and it has also stalled on me when going into reverse slowly like you said..

but mine also has some idle surges too..like when idle..and when the aux fan kicks in,,the idle dips, then goes back up...then fluctuates..

or when driving and im in 1st gear just pepping it to move ahead...when i release off the throttle after pepping it..it almost wants to die...

is this the same thing??

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

same exact thing! mine does everything you just said. my car is at the mechanic left it there i'll hear today the diagnosis.

1fsthatch

its the hot ass weather how many miles are on ur car

I hate cars

Since it did it right after filling up and it has misfires on all cylinders, it is water or very bad gas. I'm leaning toward water since it's taking a while to clear up.

Water is hard to get out, it sits on the bottom of the tank so filling up over and over sometimes won't get it all out. Unfortunately sometimes the only choice is to drop the tank.

hamsup

well what i wanna know, is how does a misfire even begin?
bad plugs?? bad coils? timimg??

cuz i got the same issue..but im supercharged...so inorder to get to my front pugs, i gotta pull the charger out..hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

but my check engine light is always on..then if im just at an idle waiting at a light or smth, it will start flashing..

so what do u think guys? is this an easy fix..or something warranty would have to cover??

Majofo

the bouncing idle / surge could be related to the s/c.. what code are you pulling?

I hate cars

I hate to tell you, but chances are your engine is toast. "Opel" on here will likely agree.

You have likely damaged a piston so that you're losing compression or have a blown headgasket and losing compression, causing the misfire.

If you're extremely lucky it's just a plug but not likely.

That supercharger never should've been released. It's a nightmare and with the lack of tuning with it, it blows engines up left and right. IMO, Comptech or whoever made that thing should be sued for such a half assed "kit". At a minimum it should've come with a disclaimer stating it had to be run on 100 octane to prevent engine damage.

Misfire due to low compression will usually show up at idle. Misfire due to coils or plugs will usually show up under boost and higher load.

If you do the plugs, inspect them for signs of detonation like a broken electrode or spots of aluminum from the piston on it. Do a compression check while you're in there.

Majofo

If that's the case then I'd uninstall the s/c.. replace the stock belts & airbox.. take it in and cross your fingers for a failed head gasket replacement under warranty.

Do the pressure test first though..

hamsup

hmmm..ok, i'll check the pugs first..and go from there..

i was thinkin of doin that too...un install and take it in..
though when i went to buy-out my lease..i had the charger in there...
they took it throught the warranty inspection and stuff and they still approved..so am i covered even with the blower??

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

well just got back from mechanic. this is what was all found.

72psi fuel at idle - maybe bad fuel pressure regulator
freaking dealer replaced 2 spark plugs with bosch platinums and left the other 4 NGK's in. they also did not tighten the coils back up.
he also said it the fuel tank is clean and the filter(sock) did its job cuz there were metal fragments embedded into it. he did a compression test and all cylinders passed evenly. codes were then cleared and didn't return for the few miles i drove it but we can still hear it misfiring and see is shaking at idle.

we swapped my whole fuel pump assembly from my a/t to the m/t and hes going to run more diagnostics tonight. (no im not using the A/t, thats what the minivan is for)

next step is also coil packs. should we look at fuel injectors maybe also? anything else we might be overlooking?

I hate cars

Did you get the 72psi FP fixed?

Was the tank dropped or did he just look in it?

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

we just looked inside the EMPTY tank.

hes testing the 72psi tonight with the a/t fuel pump installed.

hamsup

ok so would this also be a result of when i turn on my Climate control, the rpm dips and teh car starts to struggle..not AC, just regular air or heat.
or even when im just cruisign normaly, and i turn it on, i can feel it. like the car lost power...so is this also from the misfire, or is this a totally separate thing?

cuz my idle likes to fluctuate around quite a bit..

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

dude i think we have THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM minus s/c so maybe the s/c has nothing to do with it.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Bring it to my job

-Running compression will tell you a lot as well. It's different from reg. compression test

-Injector leak down test and balance test

Get a scan tool on the damn thing and look for misfire counts for each cylinder. It may be possible 2 cylinders to be in a misfire and cause an
un-balance in the engine which will cause the other cylinders to misfire as well. 72 psi is high my man. 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/cm2, 48 - 55 psi)

48-55 is spec. Too much or too little psi from the fuel pump can cause rough running and a misfire condition. He has to use factory information and test from that. Look at fuel trims if indeed that car is pouring in gas it would be pined rich. Which means there could be fuel that is not getting burned up and is staying in the cylinders.

here is the proceedure to check fuel pressure:


Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure gauge.
Start the engine and let it idle.
If the engine starts, go to step 5.
If the engine does not start, go to step 4.
Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on.
If the pump runs, go to step 5.
If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 330 - 380 kPa (3.4 - 3.9 kgf/sq.cm, 48 - 55 psi) .If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then recheck the fuel pressure.


Next tell him to follow this:

DTC P0300: Random Misfire and Any Combination of the Following:

DTC P0301: No.1 Cylinder Misfire Detected

DTC P0302: No.2 Cylinder Misfire Detected

DTC P0303: No.3 Cylinder Misfire Detected

DTC P0304: No.4 Cylinder Misfire Detected

DTC P0305: No.5 Cylinder Misfire Detected

DTC P0306: No.6 Cylinder Misfire Detected

Special Tools Required


Pressure gauge adapter 07NAJ-P07010A
A/T low pressure gauge w/panel 07406-0070300
A/T pressure hose 07406-0020201
A/T pressure hose, 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A
A/T pressure adapter 07MAJ-PY40120
Oil pressure hose 07ZAJ-55A0200
NOTE:


If the misfire is frequent enough to trigger detection of increased emissions during two consecutive driving cycles, the MIL will come on, and DTC P0300 (and some combination of P0301 through P0306) will be stored.
If the misfire is frequent enough to damage the catalyst, the MIL will blink whenever the misfire occurs, and DTC P0300 (and some combination of P0301 through P0306) will be stored. When the misfire stops, the MIL will remain on.
Troubleshoot the following DTCs first, if any of them were stored along with the random misfire DTC(s):
P0107, P0108, P1128, P1129: Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
P0171, P0172: Fuel system
P0335, P0339, P0385, P0389: Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor A/B
P0506, P0507: Idle control system P0340, P0344: Camshaft position (CMP) sensor
P0401, P0404, P0406, P2413: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system



Note this freeze data:
Engine speed
Vehicle speed
Throttle position
CLV

Clear the DTC with the HDS.
Start the engine with no load (in Park or neutral), then let it idle.
Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, or P0306 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the screen indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 9. NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, go to steps. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, wait for several minutes, then recheck.

Check the CYL1 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL 5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE in the DATA LIST for 10 minutes with the HDS. Does CYL1 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE show misfire counts? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Go to step 6.
Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the range of the recorded freeze data.
Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, or P0306 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the screen indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 9. NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, go to step 8. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 6 and recheck.
Check the CYL1 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE in the DATA LIST for 10 minutes with the HDS. Does CYL7 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE show misfire counts? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

Check the fuel quality. Is the quality good? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Drain the tank, and fill it with a known-good fuel, then go to step 20.
Inspect the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are fouled or worn, replace them.
Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the range of the recorded freeze data.
Check the CYL1 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE in the DATA LIST for 10 minutes with the HDS. Does CYL1 MISFIRE, CYL2 MISFIRE, CYL3 MISFIRE, CYL4 MISFIRE, CYL5 MISFIRE, and/or CYL6 MISFIRE show misfire counts? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Go to step 20.
Check the fuel pressure. Is the fuel pressure OK? YES - Go to step 15. NO -
If the pressure is too high, replace the fuel pressure regulator then go to step 20.
If the pressure is too low, check the fuel pump, the fuel feed pipe, and the fuel filter. If they are OK, replace the fuel pressure regulator, then go to step 20.
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

Remove the VTEC oil pressure switch (A), and install the special tools as shown, then install the VTEC oil pressure switch (A) in the pressure gauge adapter (B). NOTE: Install the switch in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring.
Reconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch 2P connector.
Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
Check the oil pressure at engine speeds of 1,000 and 2,000 rpm . Keep the measuring time as short as possible (less than 1 minute ) because the engine is running with no load. Is the oil pressure below 49 kPa (0.5 kgf/sq.cm, 7 psi) ? YES - Check for air in the fuel line, then go to step 20. NO - Inspect the VTEC system, then go to step 20.

Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
Clear the CKP pattern with the HDS.
Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Do the CKP pattern learn procedure.
Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the range of the recorded freeze data.
Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - If DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, or P0306 are indicated, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the ignition coil, the injector, and the PCM, then go to troubleshooting DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 or P0306. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting. NO - Go to step 27.
Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, or P0306 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS. Does the screen indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 25 and recheck.


BTW your cel flashing is no good

If the misfire is frequent enough to damage the catalyst, the MIL will blink whenever the misfire occurs, and DTC P0300 (and some combination of P0301 through P0306) will be stored. When the misfire stops, the MIL will remain on.

Again if you give up, bring it to our place.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Here just incase Compression test:

Engine Compression Inspection

NOTE: After this inspection, you must select Engine Control Module (ECM) / Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) , otherwise ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.



Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) .
Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
Remove the six ignition coils.
Remove the six spark plugs.


Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression. Compression Pressure: above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)
Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum variation: within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.

hamsup

thats what i was originally thinking...cuz it seems like many ppl here are having miss-firing codes..
but now im starting to think mine is a compression issue..

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Thanks gus for all the info. I was going to go to your shop but I'm dealing with the dealer right now not the third party cuz of lemon laws. 72 is high so that's why we changing it out. For compression I believe it was 200 across the board. I want to have a definitive answer by friday and if its something big, I might be towing the car over to your shop depending on what dealer wants to do. Again thanks for everything gus. Did you get the thing you bought?

I hate cars

Low compression makes it hard to maintain a steady idle. It needs more idle timing with low compression which the computer is not programmed for. A 2-5hp draw from the compressor is more than enough to give it problems.

You'll likely see gas mileage drop too.

jnice

iTrader: (1)

Hey i had my cel come on and got code p0108, p0300, p0301 and p0305 does that mean i should just replace the map sensor and ill be o.k

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

isn't there a tsb for that code combination?

hamsup

yup..gas mileage dropped..
and just now as i was parking it, it died when in reverse...

so how hard is it to fix?
could it just be the pugs or if its a major thing like land rings or something, how big of a job is this...or should i just look into a new motor

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

dont think its motor. i have everything you have and they ran a compression test on mine and everything looked good. i'll let you know where my problem is and you can start there. the only problem is im still looking as to where the problem lies. it'll be found soon. i would recommend not driving the car alot tho.

hamsup

for me now, im really hoping its nothing too big..lol

ya i just drive to work and back, thats it..i dont even go over 3000rpm..lol

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

No what you need to do is stop trying to diagnose by guessing without actually looking and send it to a reliable shop that can fix it.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Yup, got my new seats all went in without problems.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

LMAO,
J, trust him take it in. nothing good can come out of this if your driving it.

nice where's the For Sale Sign at? lol

I hate cars

This thread is getting a little jacked. We have two very different causes of a misfire. One is low compression due to detonation from the blower. The other is most likely due to a fuel system problem. May even be a fouled plug due to the super high fuel pressure.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

might be.. well i did my compression test. ham, do yours now.

hamsup

im not even gonna bother doing mine anymore..i already know what my out come is gonna be...so im just gonna swap in a new motor..i check some things today and its been concluded my motor is shot..

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

what did you check to concluded its the motor?

hamsup

for 1,i opened the oil cap, and there is ALOT of smoke/steam coming out, meaning blown rings. and i have alot of oil coming out of the rear valve cover breather that goes back to the intake...so, its blown for sure..plus i can hear the lifters tapping like mad