Can't find DIY Axle replacement
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Can't find DIY Axle replacement
Anybody have a DIY for Axle replacement? My passenger side is shot and needs to be done. I tried searching but it's dragging ass and not bringing up what I need. Or maybe someone has the Tech Scans. Thanks
Not really a DIY, but has the items that need to be addressed. Just keep in mind that the right axle isn't removed from the trans, it's removed from the intermediate shaft. Also, the FSM notes to drop the exhaust pipe, but it seems that this isn't necessary as the job can be done wihtout this step.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/cv-axle-install-question-742048/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/cv-axle-install-question-742048/
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Awesome. Now lets see if I can find an axle. Emailed Raxles so hopefully they can get me one asap cause I have the feeling mine is going to let loose here in the very near future...
A few members here tried aftermarket axles and they found out a few were pretty bad. Your going to find most of them if you search in the performance parts and modifications section.
Last edited by csmeance; Jun 7, 2011 at 12:36 AM.
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I haven't read anything bad about Raxles but I did read about the others. Ill look into the dealer. Too bad nobody makes some decent aftermarket axles for us. Acura OEM Parts hasone listed for $167 but from experiance with dealing with them their site gets hacked alot and the prices are typically wrong.
Last edited by Toddy; Jun 7, 2011 at 12:52 AM.
I'm thinking of undertaking this myself. I have the dreaded click click coming from the passenger side whenever I make a right turn (and a faint click when making a left). passenger side boot is torn and leaking some grease.
I looked up the part #44305-SEP-A02 for the passenger side axle/cv (not intermediate shaft). Does it come with the outer boot (closest to the hub/knuckle) attached or do you need to put that on yourself? Do aftermarket axles come complete (no messing with boots and grease)?
For the ball joints, when reinstalling do I just need to worry about getting the nut on and cotter pin or whatever? Does it need to be popped back in or does the weight of the car do that for you? I know improper assembly of a ball joint can cause catastrophic failure..
thanks!
I looked up the part #44305-SEP-A02 for the passenger side axle/cv (not intermediate shaft). Does it come with the outer boot (closest to the hub/knuckle) attached or do you need to put that on yourself? Do aftermarket axles come complete (no messing with boots and grease)?
For the ball joints, when reinstalling do I just need to worry about getting the nut on and cotter pin or whatever? Does it need to be popped back in or does the weight of the car do that for you? I know improper assembly of a ball joint can cause catastrophic failure..
thanks!
Just a bit of advice from previous cars, when you buy aftermarket axles such as autozone and things like that, most don't come with the little rubber doughnut that absorbs some noise and vibrations. Just an fyi.
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I'm thinking of undertaking this myself. I have the dreaded click click coming from the passenger side whenever I make a right turn (and a faint click when making a left). passenger side boot is torn and leaking some grease.
I looked up the part #44305-SEP-A02 for the passenger side axle/cv (not intermediate shaft). Does it come with the outer boot (closest to the hub/knuckle) attached or do you need to put that on yourself? Do aftermarket axles come complete (no messing with boots and grease)?
For the ball joints, when reinstalling do I just need to worry about getting the nut on and cotter pin or whatever? Does it need to be popped back in or does the weight of the car do that for you? I know improper assembly of a ball joint can cause catastrophic failure..
thanks!
I looked up the part #44305-SEP-A02 for the passenger side axle/cv (not intermediate shaft). Does it come with the outer boot (closest to the hub/knuckle) attached or do you need to put that on yourself? Do aftermarket axles come complete (no messing with boots and grease)?
For the ball joints, when reinstalling do I just need to worry about getting the nut on and cotter pin or whatever? Does it need to be popped back in or does the weight of the car do that for you? I know improper assembly of a ball joint can cause catastrophic failure..
thanks!
hmm guess i'll go OEM.. what of the ball joint? When I reinstall is it simply as easy as putting the ball back in its seat and bolting the thing down? Does it pop back in on its own weight?
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I've always torqued the nut carefullyt to pull the ball joint back in so it goes in straight. The I backed it out and put the cotter pin in. Never had any trouble doing it that way.
Step 5b and c on page 16-19 on the scans provided by the Mod above validates this.
I haven't read anything bad about Raxles but I did read about the others. Ill look into the dealer. Too bad nobody makes some decent aftermarket axles for us. Acura OEM Parts hasone listed for $167 but from experiance with dealing with them their site gets hacked alot and the prices are typically wrong.
Raxles makes a good product and they come with the damper for around $150+ each shipped. Raxles will only take OEM units as a core and they will supply the return ship labels. Mine looked like a work of art and were of very high quality. No foreign (china) components are used per the owner Marty.For the ball joints, when reinstalling do I just need to worry about getting the nut on and cotter pin or whatever? Does it need to be popped back in or does the weight of the car do that for you? I know improper assembly of a ball joint can cause catastrophic failure..
thanks!
thanks!
Last edited by zeta; Jun 28, 2011 at 12:20 PM.
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$167 for an OEM axle is not that bad for a 3G TL. Especially when OEM axles for the CL-S6 are $636.00 each.
Raxles makes a good product and they come with the damper for around $150+ each shipped. Raxles will only take OEM units as a core and they will supply the return ship labels. Mine looked like a work of art and were of very high quality. No foreign (china) components are used per the owner Marty.
I hate to revive the old thread, but does anyone know if driveshaft replacement is covered by the power train warranty? My car needs the right one replaced (part number 44305-SEP-A02) and it is still within 6 years/70k miles, but my dealer told me that this isn’t covered. The warranty manual booklet says otherwise – quote: “Front-Wheel-Drive System Final drive housing and all internal parts, driveshafts, constant velocity joints, front hubs and bearings, seals and gaskets.” Does anyone have any experience with this? Thank you
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Bring your warranty guide with you when you talk to him. Also contact Acura Customer Support and tell them the issue you are having with your dealer and they should be able to help you
This is exactly what i am going to do. I have already called the Acura Customer Support and gave them the part number that is being replaced and the lady confirmed that the part number is covered under power train warranty plus all associated costs. I received a case number and was advised to refer to it when speaking with the dealer again if they refue to honor the warranty.
I have the clicking as well.....I just ordered a new drive shaft.
Ill be sure to take pictures and come up with a DIY for you guys.....
I dont think it will be that hard.....we'll see though
Ill be sure to take pictures and come up with a DIY for you guys.....
I dont think it will be that hard.....we'll see though
Just spoke with Acura....I called them to see (for what it was worth) if I was under any type of power train warranty....
He told me that the click Im hearing is from my tranny....he said I need to flush my tranny fluid........he said I shouldnt be running GM fluid in it
Im still going with the shaft.....right side doesnt look so hard
He told me that the click Im hearing is from my tranny....he said I need to flush my tranny fluid........he said I shouldnt be running GM fluid in it
Im still going with the shaft.....right side doesnt look so hard
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I can't remember what size the axle nut was. I actually still have the clicking after a new shaft. I am not running the GM Fluid yet, changing it next week most likely, so I call BS on that part the dealer said.
wow, you still have the clicking? well that sucks...
if this doesnt fix mine then I have no clue what it could be....
my noise is loud when Im turning and on power.....but after i drive it a few miles it stops
if this doesnt fix mine then I have no clue what it could be....
my noise is loud when Im turning and on power.....but after i drive it a few miles it stops
Sound like a good thread to ask this question. The other day I removed my front passenger wheel and notice the drive shaft was leaking grease on my 06 tl and was wondering if it's normal or not? It seemed like a good amount since the inside of my wheel had alot of grease.
Does it look like its coming from the boot on the axel?
If so then that could be the CV joint
I just finished replacing mine last night. It was a bitch! But going back together it was damn easy.
I was going to post a DIY but there was too much shit I had to do
So if anyone has any questions about how, I would be more than happy to answer
If so then that could be the CV joint
I just finished replacing mine last night. It was a bitch! But going back together it was damn easy.
I was going to post a DIY but there was too much shit I had to do
So if anyone has any questions about how, I would be more than happy to answer
yeah, look on the underside and you may need to look between the folds of the rubber boot to find a crack. Mine's leaking on the passenger side too.
trancemission, how long did the job take for you? First time trying the axle? What tool did you use for the ball joint? reassembling the ball joint easy enough? thanks!
trancemission, how long did the job take for you? First time trying the axle? What tool did you use for the ball joint? reassembling the ball joint easy enough? thanks!
It took me a total of about 4 hours I'd say.
Yeah it was my first time doing one. Being a mechanic I figured it wouldn't be that hard.
I used a puller for the ball joint. Those weren't the big issue for me.
what sucked was the axel nut, that was a fucking pain, I worked on just the nut for about an hour and a half
Getting the shaft out was challenging but I finally prevailed.
Going back together was cake......im so glad I did this......it solved all the issues I was having with my front end.
Yeah it was my first time doing one. Being a mechanic I figured it wouldn't be that hard.
I used a puller for the ball joint. Those weren't the big issue for me.
what sucked was the axel nut, that was a fucking pain, I worked on just the nut for about an hour and a half
Getting the shaft out was challenging but I finally prevailed.
Going back together was cake......im so glad I did this......it solved all the issues I was having with my front end.
Does it look like its coming from the boot on the axel?
If so then that could be the CV joint
I just finished replacing mine last night. It was a bitch! But going back together it was damn easy.
I was going to post a DIY but there was too much shit I had to do
So if anyone has any questions about how, I would be more than happy to answer
If so then that could be the CV joint
I just finished replacing mine last night. It was a bitch! But going back together it was damn easy.
I was going to post a DIY but there was too much shit I had to do
So if anyone has any questions about how, I would be more than happy to answer
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You would have to replace the whole assmebly most likely. If it is leaking from the boot the joints are most likely contaminated. I bought my axle from AcuraOEMParts.com (Delray Acura) for $165 shipped to my house in 3 days.
I haven't read anything bad about Raxles but I did read about the others. Ill look into the dealer. Too bad nobody makes some decent aftermarket axles for us. Acura OEM Parts hasone listed for $167 but from experiance with dealing with them their site gets hacked alot and the prices are typically wrong.








