Broken Valve Cover Bolt/screw
#1
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Broken Valve Cover Bolt/screw
Earlier I was putting back on my valve cover in a previous attempt to put in the intake manifold gasket. Put that on hold until it's warmer since I want to clean my intake-filter as well.
Anyways.. while putting back on the valve cover and tightening the bolts, I snapped one of the bolts right off. This is the bolt/screw on the far right, closest to the throttle body.
Not sure if I'm describing it correctly, but it is the small bolt that goes onto the screw of the manifold. The bolt was attached to the screw--and I tightened it too much by accident then *pop* it snapped off.
Is there a way to fix this? Or am I going to have to deal with my valve cover missing a bolt?
Anyways.. while putting back on the valve cover and tightening the bolts, I snapped one of the bolts right off. This is the bolt/screw on the far right, closest to the throttle body.
Not sure if I'm describing it correctly, but it is the small bolt that goes onto the screw of the manifold. The bolt was attached to the screw--and I tightened it too much by accident then *pop* it snapped off.
Is there a way to fix this? Or am I going to have to deal with my valve cover missing a bolt?
#2
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take a photo of it so we can understand...
#3
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Yeah.. that would be smart. lol Sorry I was just shocked while posting it... can't believe that the screw broke so easily. Will upload pics tomorrow as my computer is lagging like freaking crazy.
#5
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#6
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You my friend.. have proved once again.. that Murphy does exist.
I think I know what you're describing and it depends on how much of the bolt you snapped off. It looks like it is part of the intake manifold so you'd need a new intake manifold. You might be able to take it into a machine shop and weld on a new bolt. I still can't imagine how much torque you exerted to snap it off.
Do you have any threading that a nut can fit over? Does the throttle body seat properly? I'd definitely like to see some pics..
I think I know what you're describing and it depends on how much of the bolt you snapped off. It looks like it is part of the intake manifold so you'd need a new intake manifold. You might be able to take it into a machine shop and weld on a new bolt. I still can't imagine how much torque you exerted to snap it off.
Do you have any threading that a nut can fit over? Does the throttle body seat properly? I'd definitely like to see some pics..
Last edited by Majofo; 01-20-2009 at 08:00 AM.
#7
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
zoomed in.. bolts on upper left corner.. another option.. use a vice to clamp.. ha.. sorry for joking.. you gotta laugh to get over the shock.
Last edited by Majofo; 01-20-2009 at 08:49 AM.
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#8
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Part #'s and info
92900-08050-1B BOLT, STUD (8X50) $0.94
Part number 18 in this photo:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
#9
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That's awesome!.. I thought he was SOL.. well there you go.. csmeance to the rescue.
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If not ....
I assumed though that when he said "valve cover" he meant "manifold cover" and it was one of the bolts on the top of the manifold cover.
#11
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OR
if you have a good soild flat screw driver and a drill, do this:
Put a good sharp drilling bit on the drill and drill maybe 1/8th of an inch into the screw (don't use a big bit, use something as wide as the screw driver). Then put your screw driver into the hole. Take a hammer and pound it in once or twice to create a notch. Take drill and remove screw.
I suggest you do the first option, the second one an tech told me about, but it sounds risky...
#12
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^ for a few bucks you can get a bolt extractor that taps in the center and torques coming out if there is not enough to grab onto with vice grip.
#13
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Alright, thanks for the info, pictures and help everyone.
Unfortunately, I don't think my issue is easily fixable---or fixable at all.
Judging from the pictures provided, the screw that has snapped off is apart of the intake manifold. The screw has snapped off flush with the valve/manifold cover.
Sorry for the confusion about which screw I was talking about.
I finally got pictures.. after 3 crashes later.
Cellphone pics:
And here's the bolt with half the screw.
Cellphone pics:
I'm still surprised it snapped so easily....
But maybe that's because I was putting the cover back on at -26C [-14F] if that has to do with anything...
Unfortunately, I don't think my issue is easily fixable---or fixable at all.
Judging from the pictures provided, the screw that has snapped off is apart of the intake manifold. The screw has snapped off flush with the valve/manifold cover.
Sorry for the confusion about which screw I was talking about.
I finally got pictures.. after 3 crashes later.
Cellphone pics:
And here's the bolt with half the screw.
Cellphone pics:
I'm still surprised it snapped so easily....
But maybe that's because I was putting the cover back on at -26C [-14F] if that has to do with anything...
#14
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You my friend.. have proved once again.. that Murphy does exist.
I think I know what you're describing and it depends on how much of the bolt you snapped off. It looks like it is part of the intake manifold so you'd need a new intake manifold. You might be able to take it into a machine shop and weld on a new bolt. I still can't imagine how much torque you exerted to snap it off.
Do you have any threading that a nut can fit over? Does the throttle body seat properly? I'd definitely like to see some pics..
I think I know what you're describing and it depends on how much of the bolt you snapped off. It looks like it is part of the intake manifold so you'd need a new intake manifold. You might be able to take it into a machine shop and weld on a new bolt. I still can't imagine how much torque you exerted to snap it off.
Do you have any threading that a nut can fit over? Does the throttle body seat properly? I'd definitely like to see some pics..
I probably do need a new intake manifold... or if a machine shop can weld it back on then that'd be cool!
I didn't even torque it a lot---at least it didn't seem that way. I left the extension on my tool [whatever the socket ratchet thing is called] and tightened a few times. To my surprise it came off rather quickly--after that state of shock I went extra slow with the extension piece off on the other screws and remaining bolt.
It actually does not look too bad... but it bothers me.
The valve cover still remains tightly on the intake manifold.
Only issue I am having now is a really irritating whine when I start the car---but I'm suspecting it to be because of the -10C [14F] and lower temperatures.
#15
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Ohhhh..
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TL&catcgry2=2 004&catcgry3=4DR+BASE+NAVIGATION&catcgry4=KA5AT&ca tcgry5=INTAKE%2BMANIFOLD%2B(-%2B06)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no
I was totally off.. I thought it was one of the two long bolt that hold the throttle body (#18).
I think it's #16 [92900-06012-0B BOLT, STUD (6X12) ].. That is an effin small bolt but you can still extract it. Just take off the intake manifold cover so you can get a greater portion of the bolt / stud and twist it out if possible.. or with a small bolt / screw extractor.. tap into it and with a steady hand torque it out. I'm not sure how important it is because I don't see a torque spec but I feel you.. let us know if you can twist it out. Good Luck..
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TL&catcgry2=2 004&catcgry3=4DR+BASE+NAVIGATION&catcgry4=KA5AT&ca tcgry5=INTAKE%2BMANIFOLD%2B(-%2B06)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no
I was totally off.. I thought it was one of the two long bolt that hold the throttle body (#18).
I think it's #16 [92900-06012-0B BOLT, STUD (6X12) ].. That is an effin small bolt but you can still extract it. Just take off the intake manifold cover so you can get a greater portion of the bolt / stud and twist it out if possible.. or with a small bolt / screw extractor.. tap into it and with a steady hand torque it out. I'm not sure how important it is because I don't see a torque spec but I feel you.. let us know if you can twist it out. Good Luck..
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Hmn.. it actually does look like 16.
I'll go get that screw at the dealer. There's still a portion of the screw left [once I remove the cover]. I'll try to torque it out. I'll try tomorrow!~
Thanks a lot mannnnnnn
I now stand by my previous statement of it being fixable.
I'll go get that screw at the dealer. There's still a portion of the screw left [once I remove the cover]. I'll try to torque it out. I'll try tomorrow!~
Thanks a lot mannnnnnn
I now stand by my previous statement of it being fixable.
Last edited by o4Komodo; 01-20-2009 at 10:35 PM.
#17
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Alright, thanks for the info, pictures and help everyone.
Unfortunately, I don't think my issue is easily fixable---or fixable at all.
Judging from the pictures provided, the screw that has snapped off is apart of the intake manifold. The screw has snapped off flush with the valve/manifold cover.
Sorry for the confusion about which screw I was talking about.
I finally got pictures.. after 3 crashes later.
I'm still surprised it snapped so easily....
But maybe that's because I was putting the cover back on at -26C [-14F] if that has to do with anything...
Unfortunately, I don't think my issue is easily fixable---or fixable at all.
Judging from the pictures provided, the screw that has snapped off is apart of the intake manifold. The screw has snapped off flush with the valve/manifold cover.
Sorry for the confusion about which screw I was talking about.
I finally got pictures.. after 3 crashes later.
I'm still surprised it snapped so easily....
But maybe that's because I was putting the cover back on at -26C [-14F] if that has to do with anything...
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Stripped screws suck...but for the next time you need to describe this issue..
The part on top of the intake manifold is a Upper Manifold Cover
A valve cover sits over the valves...and unless you are working on a inline motor ie. Inline 4 or 6 the valve cover will not be on top.
Just some FYI
Last edited by sT04Louis; 01-20-2009 at 11:24 PM.
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#20
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Ill help shed some more light for ya.
The bolt head you stripped off wont let any air leak. Oil circulates around in the portion of the intake manifold that the cover covers to help cool it. So in theory the only thing that can leak is oil.
This is pictured in Pic 1.
In picture two, is the area under where you broke the bolt head ( in red )to show in no way will it leak any air. And also...what the valve covers are (Yellow).
Pic 1.
Pic 2.
The bolt head you stripped off wont let any air leak. Oil circulates around in the portion of the intake manifold that the cover covers to help cool it. So in theory the only thing that can leak is oil.
This is pictured in Pic 1.
In picture two, is the area under where you broke the bolt head ( in red )to show in no way will it leak any air. And also...what the valve covers are (Yellow).
Pic 1.
Pic 2.
#21
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Ah... my mistake. Thanks for the correction.
Since I need to remove that cover---would cleaning inside the manifold help the engine at all? There are black things [Al says it's it is unburnt fuel] here and there..
Since I need to remove that cover---would cleaning inside the manifold help the engine at all? There are black things [Al says it's it is unburnt fuel] here and there..
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I cleaned mine with WD-40 to knock all that shit loose. Make sure you blow it out with compressed air, or make sure it is bone dry before re-installing. Same with throttle body.
#23
csmeanace,
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
#24
Sorry....My car ia a first generation TSX, not a TL...If you know the answer, I would still appreciate a response....I tried a search, thinking there was post with the info I am looking for. Looks like I may have to post a new thread. Thanks
#25
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csmeanace,
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
You should visually inspect the gasket yourself and replace if necessary, but DIY.. firestone will charge you $$$$$
The valve cover bolts don't need much torque. Try to look up the specs in your TSX Helm's manual and if you don't have one.. get one.
edit: definitely post up a new thread on the TSX side..
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csmeanace,
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
When I got new tires Monday at Firestone, they told me my valve cover gasket is leaking. I don't really see any signs of a leak myself, but my oil level is down about 2/3 quart....After 6 months and about 2,000 miles since my last oil change... Anyway, I was thinking of checking the tightness of the bolts holding down the valve cover. Do you know what the torque spec is for these bolts?...I believe there are 10 of them and they are part number 13 in the diagram/photo link you posted about 1/3 down into this thread. Or, is this just a stupid idea?
TSX, not sure. But on the TL those bolts tigheten to 8.7 ft-lbs, according to the SM posts earlier in the thread. IOW - just over hand-tight.
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I'm interested in removing my Manifold cover so I can paint it - what's the safest way to remove the thing/reinstall it? Any tips would be appreciated.
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WOOOAAAHHHH, NNNOOOO. There is NO oil circulating through the intake manifild. It may look like oil has been in there, but that is NOT what that is. That area at the TB end of the Intake Manifold is the EGR chamber. It gets exhaust gasses from the EGR valve through a passage in the front head. That chamber opens to both sides of the intake manifold and, yes, it would leak air if it leaked. Not likely to leak if all the other bolts are installed, but if it did, it would be an air/vacuum leak. NOT oil. WOW
Yeah, take the cover (upper manifold cover, that is) back off and grab the rest of that stud with some vice grips and twist it out. You can use another bolt in that location if you want to. The stud is just there to hold the gasket in place while you install the cover. You don't need a new intake manifold.
Yeah, take the cover (upper manifold cover, that is) back off and grab the rest of that stud with some vice grips and twist it out. You can use another bolt in that location if you want to. The stud is just there to hold the gasket in place while you install the cover. You don't need a new intake manifold.
#29
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^ this is the 2nd thread revival..
#30
i have had this problem before and all i did was take a dremmel with a diamond engraving bit, with the intention of making a flathead acceptable screw, as soon as i touched the broken bolt with the dremmel it spun out really easy, unfortunately today while i was doing my precat delete install i rounded off the bolt on the lowest passenger side nut holding the precat to the block. bondheadedly i decided to grab the dremmel again with a cutting wheel to see if i could get the bolt off, unsucessfully, so i need to remove the stud that threads into the block, one of the stuck bolts already pulled the stud as i removed it this is the only thing keeping me from going catless, o ya and from driving because i cant run one delete and one cat.
p.s. if you have installed the deletes you can understand how tight the area arround this bolt is, i cant even get vice grips on it, any suggestions would be nice thanks
p.s. if you have installed the deletes you can understand how tight the area arround this bolt is, i cant even get vice grips on it, any suggestions would be nice thanks
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