AcctCanc11

So I was trying to get my wheels off but one of the stud broke on one of the wheels. I am trying to take the other wheel and easily took off all the lugs but the wheel won't come off even after using wd-40 more than 4 times and forcing the wheel to come off.

GRAF-FITI

so...you broke a wheel stud on one side and can't get the rim off the hub on the other side?

AcctCanc11

I broke the wheel stud on front left but the rear left the wheel wont come off the hub even after taking all the lug nuts out and force.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

seen this happen before. its just rust holding the wheel in. if i were you i'd put 2-3 lug nuts on halfway. then give the tire a good firm kick to break the rust. the lug nuts will be there to prevent the wheel from falling off on your feet

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Have seen cars with wheels adhered so tightly to the hub it seems as though they must be welded into place. If a kick won't get it off, place a small board across the inside of the wheel at the bottom and smack it with a BIG hammer, turn the wheel and do again until it is loose. Once off, clean up both areas, but must be careful with the wheel center bore, if too aggressive some aluminum will be removed and wheel balancing will be affected if they use the cone in the center bore.

Replacement of wheel stud on front is a problem as the FSM states removal, but there is a thread on the Forum showing how to replace without this laborious task by cutting the backing plate.

Jesstzn

Other option I have used numerous times with sucess is loosen all the nuts so they are 1/2to 1turn loose then back the car out of the driveway ,and being its on the back do one turn then get out to see if it came loose. You will be able to tell cuz the nuts will be tight. If not , do it again. With the front I usually just turn the wheel while its on the ground.

The other thing I do is put a very thin coating of wheel bearing grease on the hubcentric mating surfaces to keep it from binding up in the future.

dcmodels

I have some concerns about all of the suggestions so far, as there is the potential for damage to the wheel or hub. I had the same problem with my RDX, although just pulling on the tire was enough. However, on some other vehicles, I have had the problem as you have, much worse.

Keep in mind that I own an RDX, not a TL, but the following would work on an RDX, and should work on a TL, without damage to the wheel or hub.

If the center cap on the wheel is removed, you will be able to see the rim of the hub that is rusted to the center of the wheel. But how to remove that center cap. On an RDX, it is possible with a plastic interior panel lever.

On your TL you may need to destroy the center cap, by carefully drilling into the center of it, and using a large screw driver to pop it off. Drill only just through the plastic cap, and not into the center stud/ nut behind.

Then spray some PB Blaster at the joint of the wheel hub center ridge, and the center opening of the wheel. The wheel is aluminum, but its only the rust on the hub that is causing the problem. Too much PB Blaster will only get onto other parts like the rotor where you don't want it. Allow the PB Blaster to soak, and use small amounts, rather than large amounts getting it every where.

Remove any PB Blaster from the disk rotor with brake cleaner spray.

PB Blaster easily removed a disk rotor rusted to the wheel hub on my Chevy truck, and in that case both the rotor and the hub were both rusted together, not just inthe center, but the full backing area. And the rotor had never been removed in 15 years, since the truck was new. Just sprayed, waited, repeated over 1/2 hour, and the rotor simply easily pulled off.

Good luck. And each time that I remove and replace the wheel, I smear just a touch of aluminum anti-seize around the hub center rim, where it touches the wheel center. Just keep in mind that if it gets on the disk rotor or pads, they will need to be replaced.

Jesstzn

Never damaged a wheel or the studs yet in the many times I have used this method . Notice I say you just loosen the nuts .. Not run them off a 1/2 inch . The wheel and nuts are both ball seat and all your looking for is just enough clearance between the 2 to allow the bound up surfaces to flex.