Blinking D Light
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Blinking D Light
Hi,
Before you flame me, I have already done a search on it, but became a little confused due to so many different responses. I just want to be certain (or as close to it) in the steps of resolving this issue.
The results of my searches led me to think that it is either:
Also until I have time to do it (weekend) (and items arrive), will it be ok to drive it about 25 miles/day and not overexerting the engine?
Thanks in advance!
Before you flame me, I have already done a search on it, but became a little confused due to so many different responses. I just want to be certain (or as close to it) in the steps of resolving this issue.
The results of my searches led me to think that it is either:
- 3rd/4th Gear Pressure Switches
- Replacing ATF
- Transmission will be failing soon which will mean that I will need to rebuild my transmission
Also until I have time to do it (weekend) (and items arrive), will it be ok to drive it about 25 miles/day and not overexerting the engine?
Thanks in advance!
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
There's a slight lag in shifting gears. There are times when I drive that the D light doesn't blink. I just noticed it a couple of days ago and have been doing searches since.
#4
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Do a 3 quart fluid change ASAP with some locally available Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF. This will help arrest the wear in the mean time.
The Mobil 1 is in a grey bottle and says Z1 substitute on the back of the bottle.
The Mobil 1 is in a grey bottle and says Z1 substitute on the back of the bottle.
#7
'13 Hyundai Sonata
From what I have read in numerous 2G TL threads since tranny failure is a common problem, this is the pre-symptoms of your tranny failing but hopefully you can save it
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you.
Are there any repercussions if I have someone changes all 9 (or so) quarts of ATF via the cooler line (I believe) instead of doing it 3 quarts at a time? He would be doing Z1 (default), but I would be requesting the Mobile 1 as mentioned above.
I pray that the tranny can hold on!!
Are there any repercussions if I have someone changes all 9 (or so) quarts of ATF via the cooler line (I believe) instead of doing it 3 quarts at a time? He would be doing Z1 (default), but I would be requesting the Mobile 1 as mentioned above.
I pray that the tranny can hold on!!
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
I guess other than the blinking D light, what are some telltale signs of a transmissions going (other than the obvious like loud banging or something like that)? I would like to see if I can notice any other symptoms on my drive home from work.
Would an auto tech know if a transmissions is going?
Would an auto tech know if a transmissions is going?
#13
Suzuka Master
my 2006 made it to 69000
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
So I took the TL to the shop yesterday. He checked to see if there were any error codes which came up negative. When he turned it on, the D light wasn't blinking. He listened to the shifting from Park to Drive and said that it doesn't sound "too" bad. He just suggested that we continue to change the ATF and see how it goes (as suggested above - Thanks!).
He said that they were going to just do the drain/refill method once (which cost $100 and they're using Hogshead (or was it Boarshead?) ATF). The dude I spoke to first said that they were going to remove all of the ATF via the cooler line and replace it so I'm going to ask them when I get the phone call from them.
I'm crossing my fingers on the transmission! C'mon baby! You can survive!!
He said that they were going to just do the drain/refill method once (which cost $100 and they're using Hogshead (or was it Boarshead?) ATF). The dude I spoke to first said that they were going to remove all of the ATF via the cooler line and replace it so I'm going to ask them when I get the phone call from them.
I'm crossing my fingers on the transmission! C'mon baby! You can survive!!
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update:
I spoke to the owner of the shop just now and he said that he had to run a "2x2" cleaner and flush out the ATF using a Mityvac. He also said that the ATF was dark and thick so he changed all of the ATF in the car. He tested it and he didn't get a blinking D light and the car runs much better.
Think the tranny is going to make it? I'm taking bets! :P
Can't wait to take out the car for a ride tonight!
I spoke to the owner of the shop just now and he said that he had to run a "2x2" cleaner and flush out the ATF using a Mityvac. He also said that the ATF was dark and thick so he changed all of the ATF in the car. He tested it and he didn't get a blinking D light and the car runs much better.
Think the tranny is going to make it? I'm taking bets! :P
Can't wait to take out the car for a ride tonight!
#17
Senior Moderator
If the shop used a machine to evacuate the fluid and put in the wrong ATF, by bets are within the week its going to be dead.
Prove me wrong but the shop you took it to just messed it up even worse by doing the wrong procedure and wrong fluid.
Prove me wrong but the shop you took it to just messed it up even worse by doing the wrong procedure and wrong fluid.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
I told them not to use a machine to flush out the system using a "flusher" because it was too harsh to the transmission and they agreed. And a Mityvac is just a fluid extractor... And they said that the ATF is a Z1 compatible fluid... So now I'm confused...
#19
Three Wheelin'
Its freaking scary! and those mileage reminds me of my family's old 1993 mazda mpv. Tranny went out around 70kmiles and then at 80k miles! But I bet you its not as scary as my TB problem...
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Maybe I wasn't very clear in my earlier post.
They did a drain/refill and used a Mityvac to get the rest of the ATF. So no, I don't think they used a machine to flush out the system. As for the wrong ATF concern, I'm pretty sure that they're certain that the particular ATF they used is Z1 compatible.
If the car is still holding up after a week or so, I will be doing the gear pressure switches and tranny filter change. In about 15k miles, I should be able to do my own ATF drain/refill and I can use the ATF of choice and introduce it slowly.
Thoughts?
Bets so far: 1 for failure in a week.
They did a drain/refill and used a Mityvac to get the rest of the ATF. So no, I don't think they used a machine to flush out the system. As for the wrong ATF concern, I'm pretty sure that they're certain that the particular ATF they used is Z1 compatible.
If the car is still holding up after a week or so, I will be doing the gear pressure switches and tranny filter change. In about 15k miles, I should be able to do my own ATF drain/refill and I can use the ATF of choice and introduce it slowly.
Thoughts?
Bets so far: 1 for failure in a week.
#22
Dogmatic Dinosaur
If that shop just used Dextron/Mercron III, it is better than Z1. It is compatible.
It might just be a bad sensor causing the D4 light to blink. If it does it again, then see if you can get somebody to read it for free. Then again, it might be bad.
Even if the fluid change does not last forever (and it won't if you have wear) it can buy you some time to save up some cash and get ready.
Change out that filter - it will filter particles/shavings out of the fluid.
It might just be a bad sensor causing the D4 light to blink. If it does it again, then see if you can get somebody to read it for free. Then again, it might be bad.
Even if the fluid change does not last forever (and it won't if you have wear) it can buy you some time to save up some cash and get ready.
Change out that filter - it will filter particles/shavings out of the fluid.
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok! I'll do those things!
When I test drive the car tonight, are there any things I should be watching for? Other than the blinking D light and the lag when the gears are shifting...
When I test drive the car tonight, are there any things I should be watching for? Other than the blinking D light and the lag when the gears are shifting...
#25
Suzuka Master
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
So, I went on a test drive last night and I noticed that the shifting was better (ie, less lag between gears and shifted more "confidently") and the blinking D light didn't occur. So far, so good.
I'll be ordering the parts for replacing the transmission filter and the parts for the gear switches. Hopefully, that will help [a lot]. :P
I'll be ordering the parts for replacing the transmission filter and the parts for the gear switches. Hopefully, that will help [a lot]. :P
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update:
The tranny seems to be holding up after a week. I've ordered parts for the tranny filter and switches, but it won't get here by this weekend. I'm eager to see if changing these items will further help the tranny!
I may transition the ATF to Redline around the time I will have to replace the timing belt.
The tranny seems to be holding up after a week. I've ordered parts for the tranny filter and switches, but it won't get here by this weekend. I'm eager to see if changing these items will further help the tranny!
I may transition the ATF to Redline around the time I will have to replace the timing belt.
#30
problems with the tl
I drive a 2005 acura tl and i was driving back from dinner and i noticed as i stopped at a toll on the interstate i gradually sped up to 60mph and the cars rpms started to redline so i pulled to the side of the road and shut the car off . I cranked the car back up and noticed my check engine light came on and my driving light was flashing. Again notice i had no noises under the hood, no grinding gears and no crazy shifting . I put the car into drive and no movement i tried reverse no movement . I have no idea of what can cause this issue someone told me to replace the shift solenoids and it takes a solenoid A and a solenoid B . Does anyone know of a cure for my car. Bc im really at a loss. I need help. This is the first impor ive ever owned and i just got back from afghanistan and i am just now having issues . So if anyone has any feedback to help me out please . I heard of cleaning the screens on the solenoids and ive done that but still no difference if anyone has had this same issue please let me know thanks
#32
you need to get the stored code from the car.... A hard fault will remain for a few drive cycles and then it will disappear if the problem does not come back.
When my D5 light started to blink on the CL, it was internal transmission fault. Car drove fine, Dealer replaced transmission under warranty no questions asked. One of the failure modes on that transmission is drop into second gear and if you are going over 70 when it happens, you run the risk of toasting your motor...
When my 4th gear pressure switch died, the D5 did NOT blink but the CEL was lit up
When my D5 light started to blink on the CL, it was internal transmission fault. Car drove fine, Dealer replaced transmission under warranty no questions asked. One of the failure modes on that transmission is drop into second gear and if you are going over 70 when it happens, you run the risk of toasting your motor...
When my 4th gear pressure switch died, the D5 did NOT blink but the CEL was lit up
#34
I just got my Transmission replaced at AAMCO approximately 4-5 months ago. Its been driving like a beauty and put about 4 thousand miles on it. Just today, i saw the Drive gear light blinking but no check engine light. Should i be worried?
#35
Senior Moderator
D light blinking that there is some sort of issue. It could be as simple as a sensor left disconnected! Go to the shop and they can read the code from the car that's causing the blinking D.
#36
Changed 3/4th pressure switches still D
Sorry to dig up an old thread but it’s relevant to my situation. While back I would get occasionally a flashing D light which would go away after shutting car off. Car seemed fine all the time after. I occasionally would get a slight shudder like when car was cold shifting from 2nd-3rd or around low rpm at like 35-40. After reasearching I did a 3x3 dump and drain of fluid once and then a month later did the 3rd and 4th pressure switches per recommended videos on you tube etc. my car is an 05 with 164k. The sensors replaced weren’t Honda they were after market. Now also there hasn’t been any fault codes thrown for the transmission. It just will flash D and once I shut it off goes away. Any other ideas?
#39
Senior Moderator
replace them with OEM switches
#40
What’s the status of your car?
Hi Gasper,
im have the same issue in my 2004 TL with 141k miles. “D” will occasionally blink but will go away with a agut off restart. I’m begging I g to worry after reading this thread. I’ve babied my car since I got it.
im have the same issue in my 2004 TL with 141k miles. “D” will occasionally blink but will go away with a agut off restart. I’m begging I g to worry after reading this thread. I’ve babied my car since I got it.
Sorry to dig up an old thread but it’s relevant to my situation. While back I would get occasionally a flashing D light which would go away after shutting car off. Car seemed fine all the time after. I occasionally would get a slight shudder like when car was cold shifting from 2nd-3rd or around low rpm at like 35-40. After reasearching I did a 3x3 dump and drain of fluid once and then a month later did the 3rd and 4th pressure switches per recommended videos on you tube etc. my car is an 05 with 164k. The sensors replaced weren’t Honda they were after market. Now also there hasn’t been any fault codes thrown for the transmission. It just will flash D and once I shut it off goes away. Any other ideas?