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Dunno if I missed one, but I'm having a hard time taking out my tensioner. The lower bolt hits the frame. Anyone replace this yet? Mine is getting super loud. I sprayed wd40 on the pulley, it got louder.
First, WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. WD-40 can be a good start as it can help clean up rust or other grime, but after dried, it should be followed up by using a true lubricant e.g. silicone, teflone based etc.
When I replaced mine. I accessed it from the F.R wheel well.
Basically, the long bolt your talking about will not come out. You'll have to loosen it as much as you can and fish the whole assembly out through the top of the car.
Remember there is another bolt underneath the idler pulley more towards the engine you will have to remove too.
^^^ Yeah, if the OP thinks the large bolt is the lower bolt, that's a problem.
The large bolt is the top bolt and stays attached to the tensioner assembly via a plastic keeper. The lower bolt is 10mm (maybe 12mm) and needs to be accessed from underneath or via the wheel well.
Thanks guys, my installer was toying around with it. He got it out the next day in like minutes. Thanks for the advice. I bought a new gates assembly and got Oreilly auto parts down to $61 on the part. It helps being a chick when walking in to the parts store. They told my other half to go pound sand when he inquired about a discount.
This thread really helped. sorry to highjack it for my own use, but:
I replaced the belt tensioner today with dayco part # 89369 and everything went well. thanks for the DIY, was a great help! Only hiccup I seem to have is that the belt seems to ride differently over the new pulley. In the pictures you can see that it wants to sit to the outside of the pulley, almost on the edge. Everything is tightened up and i double and triple checked the alignment of the belt. thoughts on this?
the tensioner provides tension for the belt, so yes you at least need to untension and remove the belt from the pulley to get the tensioner off...you can leave the rest of the belt on the other pulleys, but either way it's not difficult to put back on if you have to take the whole belt off.
the tensioner provides tension for the belt, so yes you at least need to untension and remove the belt from the pulley to get the tensioner off...you can leave the rest of the belt on the other pulleys, but either way it's not difficult to put back on if you have to take the whole belt off.
Ok I was just making sure because I recently had my belts replaced at the shop and the mechanic told me the tensioner doesn't need to be replaced. If I need to replace it in a few years I didn't want to pay for the whole timing belt service again.
timing belt is involved? There are 2 tensioners, one for hte drive belt and one for the timing belt. If he mentioned the timing belt he could be talking about the timing belt tensioner.
the one mentioned in this thread is for the drive belt and isnt related to the timing belt. I would replace the timing belt tensioner whenever the timing belt is changed.
drive belt tensioner = easy. Timing belt tensioner = hard.
Ok I was just making sure because I recently had my belts replaced at the shop and the mechanic told me the tensioner doesn't need to be replaced. If I need to replace it in a few years I didn't want to pay for the whole timing belt service again.
this is probably one of the easiest things to replace. (the tensioner)
The hardest part will be jacking up the car and removing the right front wheel.
Got it- oem it is- the reason for me changing it is because when the engine is on and ideling, i can see the tensioner pulley moving up and downn. Also, there is weird sound coming from the idler pulley and 2yrs ago i changed both pulleys but not the tensioner. Its 8yr old tensioner after all lol
Just wanted to update. I changed my 08's tensioner and it's very easy to get to both bolts from the engine bay. No need to jack the car up, take off wheels and liners. Got it done in 15 minutes. For the 12mm bolt at the bottom, feel for it and then put on the 12mm socket first, then the 3 inch extension, then the ratchet/cheater bar (you'll want the cheater bar so you don't strip the bolt if you tilt)
Just wanted to update. I changed my 08's tensioner and it's very easy to get to both bolts from the engine bay. No need to jack the car up, take off wheels and liners. Got it done in 15 minutes. For the 12mm bolt at the bottom, feel for it and then put on the 12mm socket first, then the 3 inch extension, then the ratchet.
I just removed my old one today. The 12mm bolt was a headache. It was rusted and rounded but after trying for an hour I got it to crack loose.
My new one will arrive tomorrow.
I just removed my old one today. The 12mm bolt was a headache. It was rusted and rounded but after trying for an hour I got it to crack loose.
My new one will arrive tomorrow.
Did you go with OEM or aftermarket?
I always use OEM unless it's stupid expensive like a radio deck or something. Also, the 07/08 tensioners are like only $140 (cdn) from the dealer, almost half price of the 04-06. The belt was $60 from the dealer however, a bit pricey for a Bando you can get off Amazon. I cracked the 12mm loose first then hand tightened it while removing the 14mm because the 14 will stick out in the way. My old 06 aftermarket Gates tensioner or belt started making noise after only 2.5 years on cold starts and if it sat for long but the Gates is still a good option over OEM
I always use OEM unless it's stupid expensive like a radio deck or something. Also, the 07/08 tensioners are like only $140 (cdn) from the dealer, almost half price of the 04-06. The belt was $60 from the dealer however, a bit pricey for a Bando you can get off Amazon. I cracked the 12mm loose first then hand tightened it while removing the 14mm because the 14 will stick out in the way. My old 06 aftermarket Gates tensioner or belt started making noise after only 2.5 years on cold starts and if it sat for long but the Gates is still a good option over OEM
Thanks, man.
I was quoted $292 before taxes at the dealership for the OEM tensioner assembly
I paid $175 to order the Gates one at NAPA and $46 for a new belt off amazon because the dealer wanted $70 for one. I know its much cheaper to order the gates one from rockauto but I really don't have time to wait.
Fingers crossed no noise. Is there anything different to the Gates kit install I should know of? I think I read from a member that when the idler pulley bolt was tightened hard, the pulley doesn't spin and when it was loosened so the pulley can spin, the assembly seems loose?
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 06-12-2017 at 04:50 PM.
$46 for a drive belt? They are only $18- $23 on Amazon, depending on if you choose Bando or Gates. You either ordered the wrong belt or got ripped off.
I was quoted $292 before taxes at the dealership for the OEM tensioner assembly
I paid $175 to order the Gates one at NAPA and $46 for a new belt off amazon because the dealer wanted $70 for one. I know its much cheaper to order the gates one from rockauto but I really don't have time to wait.
Fingers crossed no noise. Is there anything different to the Gates kit install I should know of? I think I read from a member that when the idler pulley bolt was tightened hard, the pulley doesn't spin and when it was loosened so the pulley can spin, the assembly seems loose?
there's a metal plate that keeps it from rubbing the pulley. The other person must have put that metal plate on an angle. Regarding your noise, you'll know for sure if you turn on the engine now with the belt off. Also spin the other pulleys (a/c, alt, ps) by hand. I used a stethescope ($10-20 came in handy so many times) and you can place it on the non moving parts of all the components when it's running.
I wish I had bought a stethoscope before assuming it is the tensioner pulley and pulling the belt off.
The tensioner seemed very shaky, though so I think it's time for a replacement. The belt was wobbling side to side a lot at the tensioner pulleys. If the new Gates tensioner doesn't fix my knocking sound, I suspect the AC pulley.
So im usually pretty good with working on the car but I cannot for the life of me find a damn way to get to the lower smaller bolt on the tensioner assembly on my 08. i tried taking the wheel off and started peeling back the splash guard but looks like the windshield washer fluid is right in the way? Are some of you saying ill have to lay under the car to get to it? Feel like such a noob right now lol.
So im usually pretty good with working on the car but I cannot for the life of me find a damn way to get to the lower smaller bolt on the tensioner assembly on my 08. i tried taking the wheel off and started peeling back the splash guard but looks like the windshield washer fluid is right in the way? Are some of you saying ill have to lay under the car to get to it? Feel like such a noob right now lol.
so lmao I figured it out. I must of just been out of it from work or something. I was seeing the big pulley in front of the tensioner thinking it was the big pulley in back of the tensioner, like HTF are people getting in front of that to the small bolt. Now I see it right in front of my face! Sorry to revive the old thread!
I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt and I am also replacing the drive belt tensionner assembly. I ordered the gates kit from rockauto. My question is the original oem part has a bearing cover for the idler pulley. The gates kit did not have that, does that get transferred over to the gates assembly? It doesn't seem like it would fit on there. Also when using the gates kit, do i need to remove anything from the oem bolt or do i just remove and use as is on the new gates assembly? I've installed it but i'm just getting a weird feeling i didn't do it right. I also did not install the bearing cover. Your help would greatly be appreciated!
I just replaced mine but the belt is riding on the edge of the tensioner pulley.....i did take pics of the pulleys to see if they are aligned and it seems like the crank pulley it's out a little bit enough to make the belt ride out on the tensioner pulley....any suggestions??
If you are replacing the auto tensioner for the serpentine or drive belt, then you just remove the auto tensioner. Serpentine belt and timing belt are 2 totally different belts sitting in different paths of the engine.
06-06-2012, 10:11 PM
lol
