Battery is good, alternator is good, starter is good...nada
#1
Battery is good, alternator is good, starter is good...nada
So just picked my car up from rebuilding the transmission, new clutch, new breaks. Felt SO GOOD to not grinding gears leaving the shop on a nice sunny afternoon.
Then i make a stop, shut the car off and 45min later go out to fire her up and NOTHING.
But not nothing like the battery is dead. All the gauges light up correctly, FOB works yada yada. Even tried jumping it and nothing. Also it didnt seem to draw much off of the other car. Felt odd.
There is zero turning of the starter, just a mere click.
Went back the next day, jumped it for like 40min, but still same thing. Nothing but a click.
Was able to roll it and pop the clutch and she fired up like a champ. Also, when it was running, if i turn the key you could hear the started engage and squeak (so starter must be ok right?). WTF??
So, then I checked the starter relay under the hood release. Switched it with the one next to it (headlights I believe) and had the same problem (headlights turned on though, so i guess it rules out the relay).
What the effff is going on here. Also put in a new positive terminal cable too because it was pretty corroded and figured that might do the trick. Nope...
Any suggestions? Set this POS on fire???
Then i make a stop, shut the car off and 45min later go out to fire her up and NOTHING.
But not nothing like the battery is dead. All the gauges light up correctly, FOB works yada yada. Even tried jumping it and nothing. Also it didnt seem to draw much off of the other car. Felt odd.
There is zero turning of the starter, just a mere click.
Went back the next day, jumped it for like 40min, but still same thing. Nothing but a click.
Was able to roll it and pop the clutch and she fired up like a champ. Also, when it was running, if i turn the key you could hear the started engage and squeak (so starter must be ok right?). WTF??
So, then I checked the starter relay under the hood release. Switched it with the one next to it (headlights I believe) and had the same problem (headlights turned on though, so i guess it rules out the relay).
What the effff is going on here. Also put in a new positive terminal cable too because it was pretty corroded and figured that might do the trick. Nope...
Any suggestions? Set this POS on fire???
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If battery good, starter clicks, chances are the starter is kaput. Always good to check
voltage at the starter though to be sure. If there was no sound from the starter, I'd
check starter safety switch.
You can always hit the starter to see if the engine will turn over, but when the starter
acts up, if it is the starter, life will be short.
voltage at the starter though to be sure. If there was no sound from the starter, I'd
check starter safety switch.
You can always hit the starter to see if the engine will turn over, but when the starter
acts up, if it is the starter, life will be short.
#3
Racer
When a starter dies, it usually shows little to no signs that it will die. It's one of those things.
My starter died last month. I pretty much new immediately that the starter was bad. The clues I used to piece it together were the following:
From everything you have described, it definitely sounds like a starter to me. I paid about $150 for my re-manned one from Advanced Auto. From my experience, with a dead or dying battery, your car will make multiple clicking noises, but since the battery lacks the voltage to turn the car on, the starter won't turn over. A single click points to a bad starter. No click would point towards a fuse.
My starter died last month. I pretty much new immediately that the starter was bad. The clues I used to piece it together were the following:
- Headlights still turned on at full brightness. Radio worked. All my amps turned on no problem. Interior lights all worked. Battery was only 3-4 months old at this point, so I figured if all these items worked, it wasn't the battery.
- When I turned the key, nothing happened, except a single click, which sounds like it is coming from the underside of the dash.
From everything you have described, it definitely sounds like a starter to me. I paid about $150 for my re-manned one from Advanced Auto. From my experience, with a dead or dying battery, your car will make multiple clicking noises, but since the battery lacks the voltage to turn the car on, the starter won't turn over. A single click points to a bad starter. No click would point towards a fuse.
#4
Team Owner
Yeah it sounds like your starter died. A quick test- tap your starter with a hammer, while someone has the key turned in the ignition. It might cause the starter to jump and start. Sounds silly, but hitting the starter is a common thing, dating back as far as starters have been around.
if your starter is totally dead, it won't do anything, but I have a feeling it might work again. Temporarily. I'd replace it asap if I were you.
the good news is the starter is rather easy to replace on the 3G TL.
if your starter is totally dead, it won't do anything, but I have a feeling it might work again. Temporarily. I'd replace it asap if I were you.
the good news is the starter is rather easy to replace on the 3G TL.
#5
Racer
The starter isn't too bad to replace. The tricky part is removing the battery tray. There are two bolts (12mm) on the underside of the tray that screw into the frame of the car. You can get to them with a 6in extension, but it can be rather frustrating.
The bolts that hold the starter in can be quite hard to remove as well. I would suggest going with a 1/2in drive for these. A 3in or 6in extension and the biggest breaker bar you have should free the bolt. I ended up taking the handle off my jack to give myself some extra leverage to ensure not rounding the bolts off.
I would say the time it takes to replace is anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on your tools and experience. It probably took me closer to 2 hours.
The bolts that hold the starter in can be quite hard to remove as well. I would suggest going with a 1/2in drive for these. A 3in or 6in extension and the biggest breaker bar you have should free the bolt. I ended up taking the handle off my jack to give myself some extra leverage to ensure not rounding the bolts off.
I would say the time it takes to replace is anywhere from 1-2 hours depending on your tools and experience. It probably took me closer to 2 hours.
#6
Cut a small slot on each of the two mounting holes of the battery tray to allow it to slipped onto the screws that are partially screwed on. Make re-installing the tray a lot easier. .
#7
alright looks like i need to do a little more starter testing.
Quick question though, when i turn the key when the car is on, i can hear the starter make a noise? is that not the starter or does something different happen when the car is on vs off?
Pretty easy to change if thats the case? Im pretty decent with working on cars. Even more so I just dropped like $4k on a new transmission, clutch and rear brakes so I dont really want to dish out more dough than I have to.
Quick question though, when i turn the key when the car is on, i can hear the starter make a noise? is that not the starter or does something different happen when the car is on vs off?
Pretty easy to change if thats the case? Im pretty decent with working on cars. Even more so I just dropped like $4k on a new transmission, clutch and rear brakes so I dont really want to dish out more dough than I have to.
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#8
Senior Moderator
When you turn the key on, usually it's the fuel pump priming you hear. Starter replacement on the TL is very easy.
I recommend a remanufactured Denso
I recommend a remanufactured Denso
#11
#12
just put a new pos battery cable. The old one was completely corroded, but putting a new one in left me with the same symptoms. Just a click
#13
So just took out my starter, bench tested it and it was fine...
Put it back in but its still the same thing. No start. Accessories are on. Battery reads 12v
Any ideas?
Put it back in but its still the same thing. No start. Accessories are on. Battery reads 12v
Any ideas?
#17
Team Owner
How did you bench test your starter? How are you certain that isn't the problem? Just curious, is all. I'm still not convinced that isn't your problem.
#18
#19
Racer
You may be able to bench test the starter and have it read fine. I believe the issue you are having is that the brushes are worn within the starter. This means that there are dead spots on the starter, so it is not making contact and turning the motor inside of it to crank over the car.
If you are hearing one click when you turn the key it means that the starter relay is good. If you did not hear a click, then you have issues.
I went through the exact same symptoms you are having and replacing the starter solved my issue.
If the battery is good and you have one click, it's the starter.
If you are hearing one click when you turn the key it means that the starter relay is good. If you did not hear a click, then you have issues.
I went through the exact same symptoms you are having and replacing the starter solved my issue.
If the battery is good and you have one click, it's the starter.
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TacoBello (03-05-2017)
#20
I took the starter out and ran a charge from the battery. Its definitely not hitting a flat spot. I checked it like 15 times and it engaged every time.
So now what I did was start checking every single relay for conductivity and they are all good. But I did notice that there were two 7.5A fuses missing in #31 and #33 in the fuse box near the hood release. So i put two fuses in there and you can hear the starter working perfectly fine. But it wont turn over...This is insane.
Now I took both of those fuses out and the starter engages.
Also, Im getting major battery drain. Not sure what could be causing that or if its related.
So now what I did was start checking every single relay for conductivity and they are all good. But I did notice that there were two 7.5A fuses missing in #31 and #33 in the fuse box near the hood release. So i put two fuses in there and you can hear the starter working perfectly fine. But it wont turn over...This is insane.
Now I took both of those fuses out and the starter engages.
Also, Im getting major battery drain. Not sure what could be causing that or if its related.
#21
Senior Moderator
Bsttery could be too weak to turn the engine over but with no load, it spins fine. Your battery parasitic draw may be from a faulty HFL unit, it's very common on our TL
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TacoBello (03-05-2017)
#22
Team Owner
Yup, thoiboi is right. The HFL could very well be killing your battery. It's really easy to replace.
#23
HFL could definitely be part of the battery draw, but I just put on a fresh battery and it still wont turn over. Starter is engaging. Seems like its getting no spark or something.
#24
Senior Moderator
Constant turning could have also flooded the engine.
#25
#26
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#27
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Majofo
I didn't know the TL had a carburetor ![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Spanky](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/spankie.gif)
![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Spanky](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/spankie.gif)
![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I've experienced the same issue as OP before . Replaced battery replaced starter still no turn over, tried the press gas pedal partially while turning key and eventually car started.
#28
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
OP, just because you could get the starter to spin, doesn't mean it's going to spin the flywheel.
Did you tray smacking the armature housing as suggested earlier on, and then start?
Take the starter out again and remove the armature. Clean up all the carbon buildup, check the gaps, and try again.
If still no go, you can bypass the solenoid connection by jumping it straight from the battery. If that works, might be your clutch interlock switch.
![Battery is good, alternator is good, starter is good...nada-d3owsgt.png](https://acurazine.com/forums/attachments/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/100719d1683150847t-battery-good-alternator-good-starter-good-nada-d3owsgt.png)
If it's still a no go.. the flywheel might be catching.
Out of curiosity, did they resurface the flywheel after the replacement?
Did you tray smacking the armature housing as suggested earlier on, and then start?
Take the starter out again and remove the armature. Clean up all the carbon buildup, check the gaps, and try again.
If still no go, you can bypass the solenoid connection by jumping it straight from the battery. If that works, might be your clutch interlock switch.
![Battery is good, alternator is good, starter is good...nada-d3owsgt.png](https://acurazine.com/forums/attachments/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/100719d1683150847t-battery-good-alternator-good-starter-good-nada-d3owsgt.png)
If it's still a no go.. the flywheel might be catching.
Out of curiosity, did they resurface the flywheel after the replacement?
#29
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
https://community.cartalk.com/t/floo...d-engine/45985
![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I've experienced the same issue as OP before . Replaced battery replaced starter still no turn over, tried the press gas pedal partially while turning key and eventually car started.
![Roll Eyes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I've experienced the same issue as OP before . Replaced battery replaced starter still no turn over, tried the press gas pedal partially while turning key and eventually car started.
B) a stuck injector would likely make it a rough start, not a no start and the engine would have cranked, it would also have been symptomatic beforehand and you would likely smell fuel from the intake tract.
and 4) again... pressing on the gas pedal while starting has no effect. It's a PGM-FI fool!
#30
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I still love you though..
![Spanky](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/spankie.gif)
#31
Senior Moderator
I'm only speaking from personal experience on my 6th gen Accord. Had issues starting, replaced battery: nope, replaced starter: nope, reflowed solder on main relay: nope. Finally decided to give the good ol' gas pedal a step down while starting and voila.. it started.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/so...flooded-engine
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/so...flooded-engine