Bad Wreck, Transmission Case Damaged? *pics* help
12-05-2011, 11:09 PM
#1
Bad Wreck, Transmission Case Damaged? *pics* help
Hey everyone,
A couple of weeks ago I got into a pretty bad wreck in my '05 AT TL and messed up my whole front end. No one was hurt, nor were any other cars involved.(Just so none of y'all tear me a new one for being an idiot) I'm sure if I had claimed it on my insurance, they would have totaled the car due to the amount of damage. I decided (due to certain circumstances of the accident) to fix the car myself. A buddy and I worked on it for a couple hours pulling off the destroyed front bumper, the cracked front beam, the smashed to hell spacer, and whatever other damaged body parts we thought needed to go. We then continued by pulling out the smashed radiator, dented to hell a/c condenser, both bent and cracked fans, the air filter box, the battery, and battery seat. Then, I saw the transmission mount was a bit askew. I went to unfasten it on the rubber padded side (side connecting to chassis), but to no avail. The screw had been bent from the force of the impact. While wrenching on it I noticed the side that connects to the transmission case seemed loose... so I got my socket out and started unscrewing it from that side. The bolts unscrewed far too easily... then I realized I could simply pull them out without even having to wrench on it. When I got the two transmission mount bolts out I saw this:
Here's another view. You can clearly see where the bolt broke out of its threading.
Now, I'm wondering, is there any possible way to weld on some metal then re-thread the hole where there are exposed threads?(My buddy has a fully stocked garage with welding tools and the whole nine yards). Or.... am I going to have to do what I fear... get a new tranny case or transmission altogether? I need my car running again by mid-January at the latest... does this seem like a reachable goal? I'm inherently quite handy and capable of learning fast, but I've never taken on a project as intense as this one seems... I do have two friends, one who is in his last year of body shop school and the other who is a certified mechanic, so I definitely have the manpower, but is it even worth the time and effort to repair? On the other hand, should I cut my losses and junk her or part her out?
Any help, input, or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm tearing my hair out with stress. Thanks guys.
--DG
A couple of weeks ago I got into a pretty bad wreck in my '05 AT TL and messed up my whole front end. No one was hurt, nor were any other cars involved.(Just so none of y'all tear me a new one for being an idiot) I'm sure if I had claimed it on my insurance, they would have totaled the car due to the amount of damage. I decided (due to certain circumstances of the accident) to fix the car myself. A buddy and I worked on it for a couple hours pulling off the destroyed front bumper, the cracked front beam, the smashed to hell spacer, and whatever other damaged body parts we thought needed to go. We then continued by pulling out the smashed radiator, dented to hell a/c condenser, both bent and cracked fans, the air filter box, the battery, and battery seat. Then, I saw the transmission mount was a bit askew. I went to unfasten it on the rubber padded side (side connecting to chassis), but to no avail. The screw had been bent from the force of the impact. While wrenching on it I noticed the side that connects to the transmission case seemed loose... so I got my socket out and started unscrewing it from that side. The bolts unscrewed far too easily... then I realized I could simply pull them out without even having to wrench on it. When I got the two transmission mount bolts out I saw this:
Here's another view. You can clearly see where the bolt broke out of its threading.
Now, I'm wondering, is there any possible way to weld on some metal then re-thread the hole where there are exposed threads?(My buddy has a fully stocked garage with welding tools and the whole nine yards). Or.... am I going to have to do what I fear... get a new tranny case or transmission altogether? I need my car running again by mid-January at the latest... does this seem like a reachable goal? I'm inherently quite handy and capable of learning fast, but I've never taken on a project as intense as this one seems... I do have two friends, one who is in his last year of body shop school and the other who is a certified mechanic, so I definitely have the manpower, but is it even worth the time and effort to repair? On the other hand, should I cut my losses and junk her or part her out?
Any help, input, or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm tearing my hair out with stress. Thanks guys.
--DG
12-07-2011, 11:06 PM
#3
Did you drive it home after the wreck?
You could definitely try welding in some new material, but it will require a TIG welder and experience welding aluminum. Is this the only mount that got mangled?
I heard that the passenger side engine mount is susceptible to getting damaged after a frontal impact (it will crack at the block). You should definitely inspect it closely.
I hope that if you decide to sell this vehicle in the future that you explicitly mention that it was involved in an accident, since you are bypassing insurance and it will not show up on a vehicle history report.
In my city/state, you are required to by law to report vehicle damage in excess of $1500...
You could definitely try welding in some new material, but it will require a TIG welder and experience welding aluminum. Is this the only mount that got mangled?
I heard that the passenger side engine mount is susceptible to getting damaged after a frontal impact (it will crack at the block). You should definitely inspect it closely.
I hope that if you decide to sell this vehicle in the future that you explicitly mention that it was involved in an accident, since you are bypassing insurance and it will not show up on a vehicle history report.
In my city/state, you are required to by law to report vehicle damage in excess of $1500...
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drg90 (12-09-2011)
12-09-2011, 02:31 AM
#6
Thanks for the input, im not planning on selling it. I'm going to drive her til she dies, I just want her to run again. And I did drive it home after the wreck but i was delirious. I should have stayed there but I think I got a concussion and wasn't thinking straight. I hit a wall or something... i know... super retarded. Since I left the scene I couldn't claim it... too bad my deductible was $250... and yes, that was the only mount that got messed up.
Thank you guys for responding. I needed some input like I need air. haha
Thank you guys for responding. I needed some input like I need air. haha
Last edited by drg90; 12-09-2011 at 02:39 AM.
12-09-2011, 05:45 AM
#7
Not certain as the the depth of the hole after the break, but I'd chase the threads with a flat bottom tap to be certain the threads are correct to the very bottom, then obtain a stud, same thread/pitch as the OE bolt but just long enough to go to the bottom of the threads and extent through the mount with just enough exposure to use a nut and washer. If you have additional clearance, then the length of the exposed portion of the stud isn't too critical. You'll need to have the thread depth 1 to 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. Normally there is threaded depth that is not utilized in a block boss, but if there isn't sufficient depth to the enclosed threaded portion of the hole, I'd drill down slightly and thread that portion, just to get the stud into enough surrounding aluminum to be stable. Got to make certain there will be enough support for the stud.
Last edited by Turbonut; 12-09-2011 at 05:59 AM.
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drg90 (12-09-2011)
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12-09-2011, 05:50 AM
#8
Not certain as the the depth of the hole after the break, but I'd chase the threads with a flat bottom tap to be certain the threads are correct to the very bottom, then obtain a stud, same thread/pitch as the OE bolt but just long enough to go to the bottom of the threads and extent through the mount with just enough exposure to use a nut and washer. Normally there is depth that is not utilized in a block boss, but if there isn't sufficient depth to the enclosed threaded portion of the hole, I'd drill down slightly and thread that portion, just to get the stud into enough surrounding aluminum to be stable. Got to make certain there will be enough support for the stud.
so do you think i could drill through the original threads and use a nut and washer on the bottom? i know this wouldnt be ideal for any car but would it make it run for a while as long as i make sure to keep everything tight? i dont mind getting in there an retightening a bolt every week or so. i just want the least expensive way to fix this car. I know I messed up bad by wrecking her but I also know I can find a way to fix her. All the positive input is greatly appreciated.
obviously this is just the first step of fixing her... i need to replace some of the framework and a lot of the front end... but this transmission case got me standing on my toes... i was hoping there wasnt going to be damage like this... but you know what... anything is possible and im ready for this project. just finished college for the semester so all my free time will be going into making this baby run again. shes worth more than any KBB value to me. too much history between me and this car. I appreciate you taking the time to offer your input, Turbo. Much love.
Would you recommend replacing the case altogether? I do have a somewhat limited budget but I'm willing to spend more if it mean longevity for my car.
Last edited by drg90; 12-09-2011 at 06:05 AM.
12-09-2011, 07:04 AM
#10
Hopefully you're not getting in over your head when doing the repairs and with a crash of this magnitude there will be many, many problems along with a great deal of cost, so choice wisely as you don't want to spend a great amount of money and find that you can't complete the job, or the job is far from perfect. I would have had the car totaled so you must weigh the choices. As you don't seem to have a great deal of mechanical experience (no offense meant), there will be obstacles that you'll find are difficult to overcome, just cradle replacement, suspension components, supports etc, not to mention the cost, used front nose @ $2,000/$3,000, engine cradle $500/$1000, plus all the other parts. There is a point to which one must cut the umbilical cord, so to speak.
Certainly can't drill through the boss and use a nut and washer, but give the stud a try as I've used the trick several times for various problems over the years. Most recently was an intake manifold that someone broke out the side of the casting where the thermostat resides. There was enough depth that it didn't need to be drilled, just used a stud and it was fine.
I wouldn't contemplate a transmission replacement unless it was the last resort.
Certainly can't drill through the boss and use a nut and washer, but give the stud a try as I've used the trick several times for various problems over the years. Most recently was an intake manifold that someone broke out the side of the casting where the thermostat resides. There was enough depth that it didn't need to be drilled, just used a stud and it was fine.
I wouldn't contemplate a transmission replacement unless it was the last resort.
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drg90 (12-11-2011)
12-09-2011, 07:33 AM
#11
Thinking about the situation and scanning the availability of '04-'06 TL's with side impact and/or rear damage that are listed as rebuildables, one can purchase one of these in the $4000-$6000.
Just an example, this is an auction listing, but there are sites that have prices listed:
http://erepairables.com/salvage-auct...cura-tl-540451
Either way, I still think it's a great amount of work.
Just an example, this is an auction listing, but there are sites that have prices listed:
http://erepairables.com/salvage-auct...cura-tl-540451
Either way, I still think it's a great amount of work.
12-09-2011, 07:51 AM
#12
I like the idea of using a stud. If it were me, I might try some JB Weld on the exposed threads after installing the stud.
If you could sell it for $4-6K, it would probably make sense to cut your losses.
If you could sell it for $4-6K, it would probably make sense to cut your losses.
12-11-2011, 03:01 AM
#13
I'm ready for the challenge... I did it, so I must fix it. I've taken costs into consideration and feel that with my current income, it is feasible. I just need to get to work, plain and simple. if it doesnt work, then hell... it's a major lesson learned and a lot of knowledge gained. I'll be working on this through january and I'll send some updates here and there. I'm very confident that I can fix it. I've never met a problem that I can't solve. Thank you for your input. I do really appreciate you guys. This forum is badass.
12-11-2011, 08:27 PM
#15
Make certain that when you remove parts, bag and label everything as it will help in the "rebuild".
If you need to straighten some structures and don't have a portapower, hook up a come along to something stationary, e.g. a tree, get pressure on the part and hit it at the bow or crease with a hammer and keep pulling. Got to be ccareful if you're going to heat the metal as expanding/shrinkage could be a problem.
Keep us up to date with the experience.
Main reason I was providing info and almost forgot, was to say, get the FSM as in chapter 20 it will have all the frame measurements so that you will know what areas need attention after you remove the drivetrain.
If you need to straighten some structures and don't have a portapower, hook up a come along to something stationary, e.g. a tree, get pressure on the part and hit it at the bow or crease with a hammer and keep pulling. Got to be ccareful if you're going to heat the metal as expanding/shrinkage could be a problem.
Keep us up to date with the experience.
Main reason I was providing info and almost forgot, was to say, get the FSM as in chapter 20 it will have all the frame measurements so that you will know what areas need attention after you remove the drivetrain.
Last edited by Turbonut; 12-11-2011 at 08:36 PM.
12-13-2011, 11:28 AM
#16
Instructor
12-24-2011, 01:59 PM
#17
Are you joking?? Mannn it's gotta be too late now to claim it don't you think? I've already taken the radiator and a/c condenser out... they got stolen. ahaha Could I say it happened a day ago or something? mannn... I hope I'm not just S.O.L.
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