Shaking/vibrating when stopped at a red light
#4
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but for OP,
when was the last time your spark plugs where changed,
also how about the timing belt (a worn belt causes slop, and is not the most stable at keeping "perfect" timing, which is going to most apparent at idle, same with plugs too)
last thing is your mounts might be going out/shot, allowing more vibration into the cabin; fairly common on these cars
as far as cost, it is like asking how long my dick is, have never even seen the car, let alone figuring out what the problem is to start with...
also mileage on the car would help too...
#7
no such thing on the V6
but for OP,
when was the last time your spark plugs where changed,
also how about the timing belt (a worn belt causes slop, and is not the most stable at keeping "perfect" timing, which is going to most apparent at idle, same with plugs too)
last thing is your mounts might be going out/shot, allowing more vibration into the cabin; fairly common on these cars
as far as cost, it is like asking how long my dick is, have never even seen the car, let alone figuring out what the problem is to start with...
also mileage on the car would help too...
but for OP,
when was the last time your spark plugs where changed,
also how about the timing belt (a worn belt causes slop, and is not the most stable at keeping "perfect" timing, which is going to most apparent at idle, same with plugs too)
last thing is your mounts might be going out/shot, allowing more vibration into the cabin; fairly common on these cars
as far as cost, it is like asking how long my dick is, have never even seen the car, let alone figuring out what the problem is to start with...
also mileage on the car would help too...
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#8
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
, and very true
my best guess would be mounts, more then likely (or forgot to add this one also, might be a bad tank of gas too; and are you making sure to fill it up with premium too?)
as far as $$$, warranty FTW (cause iirc it is something like 4year/60kmiles AT LEAST on Acura, and you are more then likely still under that, so free ) and one of the best things you can do is to get it documented that is has not been the smoothest at idle, so lets say they don't notice it this time; you can still show you have complained/mentioned about it before
and shit with Honda's lifetime warranties on the seat belts, i just got mine replaced at 125k miles and 8 years later, all for the cost of some gas $$$ (something like $750 if i had to have paid out of pocket)
my best guess would be mounts, more then likely (or forgot to add this one also, might be a bad tank of gas too; and are you making sure to fill it up with premium too?)
as far as $$$, warranty FTW (cause iirc it is something like 4year/60kmiles AT LEAST on Acura, and you are more then likely still under that, so free ) and one of the best things you can do is to get it documented that is has not been the smoothest at idle, so lets say they don't notice it this time; you can still show you have complained/mentioned about it before
and shit with Honda's lifetime warranties on the seat belts, i just got mine replaced at 125k miles and 8 years later, all for the cost of some gas $$$ (something like $750 if i had to have paid out of pocket)
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-19-2011 at 06:56 PM.
#9
RAR
We're seeing A LOT of threads on engines shaking @ slow/idle speeds. My mechanic said he's seen a lot of 3g TL's with engine coils going bad around this time (which was the problem with mine). That would be first bet.
#10
I see it a lot when I first start the car obviously and for awhile after. For such a nice car, you would think it would be smoother. I should look in to that because my mechanic said that since it is a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) that is why....something about the ignition/fuel system being more efficient. It does drive me crazy.
#11
Senior Moderator
#12
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
I see it a lot when I first start the car obviously and for awhile after. For such a nice car, you would think it would be smoother. I should look in to that because my mechanic said that since it is a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) that is why....something about the ignition/fuel system being more efficient. It does drive me crazy.
BUT being a ULEV could could introduce additional issues for running smoothly though, and that would be the computer programming of the fuel/ignition timing (to take more advantage of the more efficient ignition/fuel systems)
or the additional restriction in the exhaust from the extra cats necessary in order to fully achieve the ULEV status
^^^ post #3 , also happens in park, which is ino different then neutral, as far as the load the engine actually sees (park is basically neutral but with the parking pawl engaged instead, to keep the car from moving unintentionally)
#13
Suzuka Master
maybe just a vacuum leak on the line to the motor mount? or possibly the mounts themselves although 38K is low for that.
#14
XDM
I have the same issue on my 06. The shop looked and said it wasn't the motor mounts, they ruled it out as just normal for the car. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?
#15
Now that I got my bent rim fixed, I am down to a lot less vibration. But just sitting around in park I get a vibration through my steering wheel and through my driver's seat from the engine not idling very smooth. I thought about doing spark plugs and some fuel system cleaner. But now that I read this, i'll check the coils. I've also got a little warranty left so I'll take it in. 08 tl-s 5at, 48k.
#16
Team Owner
I bought my TL brand new and it's never been the smoothest cold idling car. Once hot, it's hard to tell the engine is running sometimes. When I say hot, I mean the full core temp has been reached, not just the coolant gauge in the middle. This takes a solid 15 minutes.
Mounts don't have to be outright bad, they can soften or partially tear over time. I've replaced mine and it smoothed out the idle a lot but the old ones weren't torn.
High compression engines seem to idle rougher. I've never seen anything written on this but I've also noticed it on others. Probably why BMW clings on to the inline 6.
Cold idle is never very good with these cars. ULEV status has intentional misfires for the first 10 seconds or so and then it goes straight into closed loop feedback operation.
Some people remove the "boat anchor" behind attached to the back of the front bumper beam. It's a weight on the 5at that smooths out engine vibrations when at idle. It's a very subtle difference but you can tell if you pay attention especially with it in gear and the AC on.
You need to determine if it's a misfire or mounts. If you can't tell by sitting in the car, listen with your ear near the tailpipes. That's the only way to know which direction to take.
Mounts don't have to be outright bad, they can soften or partially tear over time. I've replaced mine and it smoothed out the idle a lot but the old ones weren't torn.
High compression engines seem to idle rougher. I've never seen anything written on this but I've also noticed it on others. Probably why BMW clings on to the inline 6.
Cold idle is never very good with these cars. ULEV status has intentional misfires for the first 10 seconds or so and then it goes straight into closed loop feedback operation.
Some people remove the "boat anchor" behind attached to the back of the front bumper beam. It's a weight on the 5at that smooths out engine vibrations when at idle. It's a very subtle difference but you can tell if you pay attention especially with it in gear and the AC on.
You need to determine if it's a misfire or mounts. If you can't tell by sitting in the car, listen with your ear near the tailpipes. That's the only way to know which direction to take.
#17
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Now that I got my bent rim fixed, I am down to a lot less vibration. But just sitting around in park I get a vibration through my steering wheel and through my driver's seat from the engine not idling very smooth. I thought about doing spark plugs and some fuel system cleaner. But now that I read this, i'll check the coils. I've also got a little warranty left so I'll take it in. 08 tl-s 5at, 48k.
, then just last week, same dealer, but different branch/brand, i took in my 03 tl for warrenty on the seatbelts, and walked out with out having to pay a dime (but then again i do buy a couple thousand in parts from them a year though , so they know me well )
#18
i took it to a shop and he said their was a little crack on the motor mounts. i guess that was the problem?
also i the power steering hose had a leak. im taking it to the dealership because it is still under warrranty
also i the power steering hose had a leak. im taking it to the dealership because it is still under warrranty
#19
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
as far as the p's leak, it should be still be leak free, so as long as it's not super hidden to see, you should have no issue with that (even if it is only seepage around a connection, what says it won't get worse at a later date; better to fix it early while the car is still relatively clean, instead of trying to clean up the mess at a later date)
#21
I bought my TL brand new and it's never been the smoothest cold idling car. Once hot, it's hard to tell the engine is running sometimes. When I say hot, I mean the full core temp has been reached, not just the coolant gauge in the middle. This takes a solid 15 minutes.
Mounts don't have to be outright bad, they can soften or partially tear over time. I've replaced mine and it smoothed out the idle a lot but the old ones weren't torn.
High compression engines seem to idle rougher. I've never seen anything written on this but I've also noticed it on others. Probably why BMW clings on to the inline 6.
Cold idle is never very good with these cars. ULEV status has intentional misfires for the first 10 seconds or so and then it goes straight into closed loop feedback operation.
Some people remove the "boat anchor" behind attached to the back of the front bumper beam. It's a weight on the 5at that smooths out engine vibrations when at idle. It's a very subtle difference but you can tell if you pay attention especially with it in gear and the AC on.
You need to determine if it's a misfire or mounts. If you can't tell by sitting in the car, listen with your ear near the tailpipes. That's the only way to know which direction to take.
Mounts don't have to be outright bad, they can soften or partially tear over time. I've replaced mine and it smoothed out the idle a lot but the old ones weren't torn.
High compression engines seem to idle rougher. I've never seen anything written on this but I've also noticed it on others. Probably why BMW clings on to the inline 6.
Cold idle is never very good with these cars. ULEV status has intentional misfires for the first 10 seconds or so and then it goes straight into closed loop feedback operation.
Some people remove the "boat anchor" behind attached to the back of the front bumper beam. It's a weight on the 5at that smooths out engine vibrations when at idle. It's a very subtle difference but you can tell if you pay attention especially with it in gear and the AC on.
You need to determine if it's a misfire or mounts. If you can't tell by sitting in the car, listen with your ear near the tailpipes. That's the only way to know which direction to take.
IHC, which mounts did you replaced?? I did the front motor mount and the side mount as well as the dynamic damper install. My car does not vibrate during cold but just the normal misfire during warmups. When the car has reached the normal operating temps I do get a slight vibration during idle in gear at a traffic light or while waiting at a fastfood place. I can feel the steering vibrating as well as a very slight shake
#22
Noise at the stop light "D" and "R"
Hi All,
I have a '06 TL w/19K miles..some humming and rattling noise (mostly on passenger front) and slight vibration at the stop light especially if I turn the steering wheel. Noise goes away when in "P" or "N"..Took it to the dealership and found out nothing, dude suggested it might be the gas or I should switch gas stations? I use 93 octane.. Thanks for any suggestions or comments!
I have a '06 TL w/19K miles..some humming and rattling noise (mostly on passenger front) and slight vibration at the stop light especially if I turn the steering wheel. Noise goes away when in "P" or "N"..Took it to the dealership and found out nothing, dude suggested it might be the gas or I should switch gas stations? I use 93 octane.. Thanks for any suggestions or comments!
#23
I've got the same issue on my 08 TL with 34K.
The vibrations I have seem to get worse when the car is warm. Like others, the vibes are manly felt while the car is in D and sitting at a stop light.
I've checked the mounts and taken it to the dealer two times already and they couldn't find anything.
Has anyone found a solution to this issue or is it just something we have to deal with?
I'm a little concerned considering the vibrations are worse than another car I own that has a racing mount in it.
The vibrations I have seem to get worse when the car is warm. Like others, the vibes are manly felt while the car is in D and sitting at a stop light.
I've checked the mounts and taken it to the dealer two times already and they couldn't find anything.
Has anyone found a solution to this issue or is it just something we have to deal with?
I'm a little concerned considering the vibrations are worse than another car I own that has a racing mount in it.
#24
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That happened to my TL yesterday, then the Check Engine Light came on today. One of my regular shops checked the code and said it was the EGR valve. The mechanics told me to bring it to the dealer under the emissions control warranty.
The other alternative is a sticky throttle body.
#25
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The EGR valve system is the only emissions-related part covered by the 4 year/50K mile warranty rather than by the emissions control warranty, per dealer, warranty literature and Acura Client Services.
$310 for the dealer to replace said EGR valve. I probably should have done it myself rather than checking the emissions control warranty after dropping the car with the dealer.
OTOH, the car idles well now, and the dealership-- Sierra Acura in Alhambra-- issues a nice inspection summary sheet which includes remaining tire and brake life at each corner.
$310 for the dealer to replace said EGR valve. I probably should have done it myself rather than checking the emissions control warranty after dropping the car with the dealer.
OTOH, the car idles well now, and the dealership-- Sierra Acura in Alhambra-- issues a nice inspection summary sheet which includes remaining tire and brake life at each corner.
#27
ideas?
Does anyone think that a fuel injector service & throttle body cleaning is needed here to quite down the noise? Maybe the gas station i use has shit gasoline? 93 octane is all the same in every stations?
#28
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There were a couple of TSBs for the heat shield rattle (involved replacing fasteners), but IDK if they apply to the '06, so you may want to check the TSB thread too.
#29
Vibration at idle Acura TL 2004
Please did anybody found a solution for this problem i have search like crazy all over the net i took the car to two different dealers they checked the motor mounts and there ok they told me the car vibrates a little but is normal i dont think this is normal i just bought the car 2 months ago with 40k miles one owner all the records,every time the car comes to a total stop and i have the foot on the brake you can feel the vibration not just in the steering wheel also in the driver seat and i think the rpm fluctuate to they go down and up like close to 500 rpm and back to 700 and kind stays there what i noticed to every time i put a load on the engine like A/C or turning the steering wheel when backing up on my driveway it feels worse same when you put the car from P to Drive or Reverse please did anybody had the same problem or close and found what was wrong.
#30
Please did anybody found a solution for this problem i have search like crazy all over the net i took the car to two different dealers they checked the motor mounts and there ok they told me the car vibrates a little but is normal i dont think this is normal i just bought the car 2 months ago with 40k miles one owner all the records,every time the car comes to a total stop and i have the foot on the brake you can feel the vibration not just in the steering wheel also in the driver seat and i think the rpm fluctuate to they go down and up like close to 500 rpm and back to 700 and kind stays there what i noticed to every time i put a load on the engine like A/C or turning the steering wheel when backing up on my driveway it feels worse same when you put the car from P to Drive or Reverse please did anybody had the same problem or close and found what was wrong.
#31
Any update? You didn't by chance just happen to get your tires replaced, alignment done at/around the time this has been happening, did you? I just submitted a post about this excessive vibration that wasn't there a single bit before I had new tires and the alignment done. I drive about 200 miles a day, so I'm very well in-tune with how my car feels/drives. Thanks.
#32
Any update? You didn't by chance just happen to get your tires replaced, alignment done at/around the time this has been happening, did you? I just submitted a post about this excessive vibration that wasn't there a single bit before I had new tires and the alignment done. I drive about 200 miles a day, so I'm very well in-tune with how my car feels/drives. Thanks.
Hey im glad I seen this. I dont have an Acura... didnt realize it was a acura website until now but I have a 07 scion tc n I got new tires at 4:45 drove 20 mins to AutoZone n got a battery n drove 15 mins to my bestfriend I left around 11:30/11:45 to drive home n when I started to stol at a stop light it started shaking but it only did it in park afterwards if I hit my gas it went away. I put gas in it afterwards because I was on my way to a gas station but it still does it. I never really had that issue of it shaking besides when I hit 60 mph but nothing like its doing now. It shakes the whole front in like its ideling but I also no it inisnt ideling
I was wondering cud it be bad gas I had a quarter tank wen it started n filled it up afterwards but it wus the same exact place as the gas already in it.
#33
If the idle is rolling it is a likely an air/fuel issue from my experience in other cars I've had. My Mustangs all had this issue and it was typically attributed to air/fuel.
My 6MT '06 TL has 87k miles and I have a vibration that doesn't seem normal either. I've had my mounts looked at but the dealer nor my mechanic thinks they are bad. I however do think this might fix me problem. The car doesn't shake at speed or misfire when I run through the gears, so I have to attribute this to motor mounts, especially due to the fact that its got 87k miles on it. Thoughts appreciated.
Sean
My 6MT '06 TL has 87k miles and I have a vibration that doesn't seem normal either. I've had my mounts looked at but the dealer nor my mechanic thinks they are bad. I however do think this might fix me problem. The car doesn't shake at speed or misfire when I run through the gears, so I have to attribute this to motor mounts, especially due to the fact that its got 87k miles on it. Thoughts appreciated.
Sean
#34
Advanced
iTrader: (2)
If the idle is rolling it is a likely an air/fuel issue from my experience in other cars I've had. My Mustangs all had this issue and it was typically attributed to air/fuel.
My 6MT '06 TL has 87k miles and I have a vibration that doesn't seem normal either. I've had my mounts looked at but the dealer nor my mechanic thinks they are bad. I however do think this might fix me problem. The car doesn't shake at speed or misfire when I run through the gears, so I have to attribute this to motor mounts, especially due to the fact that its got 87k miles on it. Thoughts appreciated.
Sean
My 6MT '06 TL has 87k miles and I have a vibration that doesn't seem normal either. I've had my mounts looked at but the dealer nor my mechanic thinks they are bad. I however do think this might fix me problem. The car doesn't shake at speed or misfire when I run through the gears, so I have to attribute this to motor mounts, especially due to the fact that its got 87k miles on it. Thoughts appreciated.
Sean
So even if our mounts look good could it be that they're too tight or seized on, causing vibrations? Maybe my rear one just needs to be taken off an retorqued. At 145k miles, I'm surprised only the side mount was cracked too.
Last edited by hisost; 02-07-2015 at 06:57 PM.
#35
Senior Moderator
I also have a slight vibration at red lights in my 5AT. I could slightly feel it through the seat and it was mostly through the steering wheel. So I had my garage do my motor mounts. They said front was good, side had a crack right through it, and couldn't get the rear one out no matter what they tried. Visually it looked good and they tried for a while and it wouldn't budge. I would probably have to drop the subframe or remove the intake manifold to get at it.
So even if our mounts look good could it be that they're too tight or seized on, causing vibrations? Maybe my rear one just needs to be taken off an retorqued. At 145k miles, I'm surprised only the side mount was cracked too.
So even if our mounts look good could it be that they're too tight or seized on, causing vibrations? Maybe my rear one just needs to be taken off an retorqued. At 145k miles, I'm surprised only the side mount was cracked too.
#36
10th Gear
I have acura 2003 rsx Automatic with about 107.000 miles.recntly i cahnged the transmission fluid and 02 sensor. Now, for the past 2 weeks, whenever i engage the vehicle in reverse or drive holding the brakes, the car vibrates the engine, steering and the held break. I have changed the engine mounts and the transmission mounts and there is no diffrence. help on what could be wrong. Also when i drained the oil, there was no metal particles in it and after the car warms up, it drives easily and smoothly.
#37
Cruisin'
I'm glad I searched on here...have a 2013 TL SH-AWD advance with just over 33k miles on it..and I noticed this exact same issue: car vibrates when stopped at traffic light in D or when inching forward without pressing down on the accelerator. As soon as I press the pedal, the vibration goes away. And there is no vibration otherwise. I have had the TC and the transmission replaced.
Would this be the EGR valve? I'm assuming they must have checked the mounts since I have had this complaint 3x since I purchased the car.
Would this be the EGR valve? I'm assuming they must have checked the mounts since I have had this complaint 3x since I purchased the car.
#38
I'm glad I searched on here...have a 2013 TL SH-AWD advance with just over 33k miles on it..and I noticed this exact same issue: car vibrates when stopped at traffic light in D or when inching forward without pressing down on the accelerator. As soon as I press the pedal, the vibration goes away. And there is no vibration otherwise. I have had the TC and the transmission replaced.
Would this be the EGR valve? I'm assuming they must have checked the mounts since I have had this complaint 3x since I purchased the car.
Would this be the EGR valve? I'm assuming they must have checked the mounts since I have had this complaint 3x since I purchased the car.
#39
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