Tucky512

In early Jan. I heard a grinding from my rear brakes. When checked, I was metal to metal yet 3k miles earlier they measured 5/6 (@ 2 dealers). Replaced pads and rotors, but i have no idea why they went so fast. Someone said that my emergency brake may have hung up. (Rarely use it but I had at around the time when they measured 5/6). I stopped at place that changed them and asked them to check the rear brakes now (I used the emergency brake a few times as an experiment).... right rear has a sticking caliper. Is there an easy way to know if i also need a brake line along with caliper? Repair I shop says they would recommend both... to the tune of $350. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

The emergency brake shoes are located inside the rotor hat (center of rotor behind the axle studs) and has nothing to do with the function of the caliper. Completely independent of the caliper operation.

As far as a sticking caliper, yes it could be, it could be the sliders are stuck, or the brake line is collapsed internally. If the line goes, normally the brakes won't release and stay applied, but after a period of time the fluid can drain back and release the pads. Most shops when presented with a car of this age and mileage (?), the easiest way to solve the problem is to replace all parts on that corner of the car and be done with the job. Is it the most economical, no, but the shop is covering their behind as it might be any one of the items mentioned, but as time is money the replacement parts would be the easiest for them. If you were to do it yourself, one can check all the parts and replace only what is needed, or all the parts, if the rotor is fine, replace the caliper for $50, new line for $10 and pads for both sides $25.

Another item you might want to address, is to check and see if the left side caliper is functioning properly, piston moves easily. If not looks like the cost is going to escalate.

Good reason the have the brake fluid replaced every 3 years.

csmeance

You can buy a remanufacutred caliper for around $50 dollars and put it on yourself pretty easily!

You shouldn't need a new brake line, however this depends on a few things!

Brake calipers usually bind/stick when they get rusted on the inside due to contaminated brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water (contains almost no water when new) over time causing the metal parts in the system to rust.

If you open up the engine hood, under the driver side of the dash will be the brake fluid container. Open it up and see the color of the fluid. If it's a clearish-light yellow the fluid is pretty new/good. If it's darker and has any sort of mold growth the fluid needs to be replaced. If the fluid is very dirty I would recommend all new brake lines.

I replace the fluid every 2-3 years (3 years in the manual, 2 years on BMW) and that prevents the rusting/damage.

If the fluid is dirty/contaiminated, you should probably flush out the WHOLE brake system. If you do this yourself, expect to take 2 hours for your first time with a $20 dollar harbor freight brake vaccum pump.

You can buy a torque wrench from them for around $12 dollars on sale, the brake vaccuum kit for around $20 and then a jack and pair of jack stands for another $80. You'll have the tools for the future and will save a ton of money in the long run.

I'd flush the fluid first with the stuck brake caliper an then replace the caliper. Suck out as much fluid as you can from the container and fill it up as much as you can with new fluid. Next you'll have to suck out the fluid from the drain valve on the caliper (under a little black rubber piece). Connect the HF brake kit on it and Start on the driver front wheel, then passenger front, passenger rear and last driver rear. You'll probably go through 2-3 bottles of brake fluid.

To replace the caliper, remove the wheel (5 lug nuts). Then there are 2 screws that hold the caliper on *(they are on the backside), remove these and the caliper will side straight off. Put some foil/tray on the ground and undo the brake line. It'll spill some fluid (fluid is corrosive and will eat paint). Put the line on the new caliper and then you'll have to vaccum the fluid out from the replaced caliper again to ensure there are no bubbles of air in the brake line.

If you decide to have a shop do it, expect to pay around $70 for the caliper, $20 in fluids and about 2 hours of labor.

There are guides, DIY and factory repair manual scans on how to do these here in the 3G Garage AKA Service Dept.

Tucky512

Thanks to you both. 2005 TL with 150K on it. Had both rear pads and rotors replaced in early January, and when they checked them both this week, they said only the right caliper was sticking. (My comments re: the emergency brake was a theory as to why those earlier pads/rotors went from 5/6's to 0/1 within 3000 miles - and 1000+ of those were interstate miles - something chewed BOTH those pads VERY quickly).

That being said, I'll check the brake fluid and see if I can find an FYI for flushing that.... (I just flushed the power steering fluid and changed the noisy O ring 2 weeks ago)... Not comfortable replacing the line/caliper myself, but I can start this.... (59 yo female)

Thanks again.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Don't know your game plan, but don't flush the system before the caliper/repair is made as it will need to be done after the repair is completed.
Acutally if you can change the PS O ring, you'd be able to do the brake job providing you have a place to work on the vehicle, with a little help from people and the instructions in the 3G garage, piece of cake.

Tucky512

Checked the color of the brake fluid and it is pale yellow/clear, so it isn't dirty... Not sure of my game plan right now but I'm better educated! Thanks.

WDPanda

Fluid in the caliper will be dark yellow to brown. Master pump reservoir should rarely be dirty