Check for pending codes first to make sure it is not pointing somewhere else first.

 

My car still had the extended warranty, so I convinved the dealer to replace the sensor -- whatever it is. The called it the accelerator position sensor. I was afraid the same thing was going to happen to my car again down the road.

 

My 2004 TL Auto Navi has been exhibiting the same issues intermittently over the past year. No problem over the Winter, but now that it's warming up, it's happening again.

AutoZone pulled the code for me, P2176, but I've searched an cannot determine if this is the same APP/TPS sensor that everyone recommends.

Any suggestions or guidance appreciated.

 

DTC P2176: Throttle Actuator Control System Idle Position Not Learned

NOTE: If DTC P2135 is stored at the same time as DTC P2176, troubleshoot DTC P2135 first, then recheck for DTC P2176.



1.Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2.Clear the DTC with the HDS.
3.Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4.Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 10 seconds .
5.Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS. Is DTC P2176 indicated? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the throttle body and the throttle actuator control module, then clean the throttle body.
6.Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7.Disconnect the intake air duct from the throttle body.
8.Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
9.Clear the DTC with the HDS.
10.Do the ETCS TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
11.Visually check the throttle valve operation. NOTE: Be careful not to pinch your fingers. Keep your hands away from the throttle valve. Does the throttle valve move to its fully closed position? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Go to step 13.
12.Check for sludge or carbon on the throttle valve. Is there sludge or carbon on the throttle valve? YES - Clean the throttle body, then go to step 21 and recheck. NO - Go to step 18.
13.Turn the ignition switch OFF.
14.Disconnect the throttle body 6P connector.
15.Disconnect the throttle actuator control module 16P connector.




16.Connect throttle body 6P connector terminals No.5 and No.6 with a jumper wire.




17.Check for continuity between throttle actuator control module 16P connector terminals No.1 and No.8. Is there continuity ? YES - Substitute a known-good throttle actuator control module, then go to step 20 and recheck. If DTC P2176 is not indicated, replace the original throttle actuator control module, then go to step 20. NO - Repair open in the wires between the throttle body and the throttle actuator control module (motor drive lines), then go to step 20.
18.Turn the ignition switch OFF.
19.Replace the throttle body.
20.Reconnect all connectors.
21.Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
22.Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
23.Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure. See: Programming and Relearning
24.Turn the ignition switch OFF.
25.Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 10 seconds .
26.Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - If DTC P2176 is indicated, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the throttle body and the throttle actuator control module, then clean the throttle body, and go to step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting. NO - Troubleshooting is complete.

 

Wow, that is an amazing reply. I'm not that mechanically inclined nor do I have the tools to clear the software/codes. I guess it's going to the shop unless there are other suggestions.

Thank you again for the post.

 

How much are you folks paying for the APP sensor? Does $280CAD sound right to you guys? That is how much Acura Canada is charging.

 

^First I would check for pending codes and see if that was the failure, if it was I would not wait too long, it would be much nicer to replace the part on your time rather than being stuck on the side of the road or creaping along the highway.

 

I had this happen to me today and I reset the ECU and the check engine light went away....Seems to run ok......maybe a little sluggish. She is gonna hit 190k tomorrow so I guess I got my moneys worth out of the first APP sensor. I also was reading that sometimes a loose gas cap can cause the car to trip a code.

 

Yeah this has happened maybe 5x so far this year. It subsides if I restart the car (121K) but the car does always seem to be kinda sluggish. I'm hoping that replacing the App sensor fixes all of this.

Keep us updated on what you do to resolve your issues.

Mc

 

Hey Guys...

It's been years since I've been back on here but I think I'm having the same APP prob on my 06 Tl....the only thing is my problems started with a whirring sound for a while which eventually went away, then a couple days later the red battery light came on, and the finally tonight all the warning lights came on, then my nav and radio turned off, my headlights died, and then my car stopped accelerating and started doing all the "APP replacement" type symptoms...you guys think it could just be the APP or something worse??? Any help would be much appreciated...

 

Any check engine light? If so what was the error code?

 

I'm experiencing the same issue as well. I lost all power and had to pull over to reset the codes. I am supercharged with the AEM F/IC. Here are the codes I was having :
P2227 - Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P2138 - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1/2 (Throttle Position Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage
Correlation

Any advice?? Thanks in advance

 

Wow i think i just got jerked from the stealership. I had a check engine light for the knock sensor. I experienced all the same stuff you guys are experiencing Post the knock sensor CEL. I didnt check the CEL again to see if i got new codes, too scared the car was going to shut down completely . Acura said that my tranny has internal failure and they are giving me a new one for $600 with 3 year 32k warranty on it. My car only has 50k on it and its an 05. One other thing that I was experiencing that you guys did not mention was that there was a big clunk sound when I put the car in reverse or park. It was like a loud and hard clunk. Did anyone experience this as well?

 

My APP sensor is fked aswell... Within the past month my car has went to limp mode 4x ahhhhh need to order this part asap.

 

Just did this as my sensor failed at about 75K miles on my '05. It took about 30 mins since I'm not familiar being under the hood of this car. In addition to 10mm extended socket, you'll also need a 12mm wrench for 2 bolts on the throttle wire. Thanks for all the info!

 

Did you notice anything after changing the sensor, other than not having the CEL light anymore? Some people say that new sensor increases throttle response.

 

No difference in throttle response.

 

When I first read this thread I thought my dealer hustled me for a transmission but that's probably not the case.

My car started going crazy in revs while in cruise control then was fine for a minute. Happened again and I pulled over as I had no acceleration at all. It would rev but not move at all.

 

Hey - where are you guys finding these 'codes'? Do you have to take it somewhere or do you have a tool that can read them?

Anyway, grabbing a new APPS today - mine has been doing this for past couple days now.

I have 123K miles on the car...wow, like a internal Acura timer went off for all of us

 

getting replaced mine... @ 145k miles

 

I just had this happen to me today. was standing still at a red light, as I got the green I accelerated and my car would not rev up. took it to may mechanic and he and the computer showed a P2101 Throttle actuator system malfunction.

the guy did a Throttle body / intake clean.

charged me $65 for the Computer Diagnostic and $90 for the Throttle body / intake clean.

Is that fair for the job?

Should I still do the APP Sensor change?

Any help will be greatly apreciated.

Peace,

Rolan

 

Thought I'd share my story. Same symptoms with my 05 TL at 75K miles. A few weeks ago the CEL and VSA lights went on. Noticed the car would really hesitate when trying to accelerate. Immediately came here and felt relieved to hear it wasn't a transmission problem. Went to the dealership and had the code pulled (P2138) and APP sensor replaced. Runs like new.

 

It's very unlikely that a dirty throttle valve could/would throw a code. Even if it was extremely dirty it would show up as an uneven idle but would not affect power the way you said it did. The problem will be back.

Basically $65 to plug in and read a code. $90 to spray some cleaner into the TB. He probably spent less than half an hour of his time and a couple ounces of cleaner. I don't think you got a good deal.

 

Fellas I deff feel you.. I was on my way home and all of a sudden my car wasn't accelerating the right way..My check engine/vsa lights came on but the car had enough power to make it home.. I take the car to the dealer and they told me it was the input shaft speed sensor Code P0717.. They tell me pick the car up its fine..I get there and 10 mins later my car is stuck on the highway not accelerating. They tow it back and tell me I need a new tranny.. SMH !!!! Should I repair my old one or just get a new one?? Suggestions please gentlemen....

 

See if you can get Acuras 85/15 good will.. You pay the 15% of the new tranny.. That's what I did

 

It may be the trans but I would have them explain exactly what's going on with the trans. They don't have the ability to diagnose anymore. If you get a trans code they replace the whole thing usually at your expense. Ask them to go down the entire cause map and how they arrived at a bad transmission. Check the fluid for yourself to see if it's low or burned.

Did they replace the input speed sensor the first time?

There are a few other things that can throw this sort of code besides a slipping transmission. I would make them explain in detail.

 

Yeah I'm in the process of negotiating with them. Plus corporate called me and were not happy with what I told them so let's see what happens.. Thanks for the input guys !!!

 

Great thread. Replaced my APP Sensor at 132k miles on the 05 TL MT. Drives like new again.

 

This is an absolutely important thread for those needing information on how to change the app sensor. Great thread

 

Did you, by chance, disconnect your battery for this repair job? When disconnecting the battery, you reset the ECU's "learning" function which adapts to your personal driving preference. I'm sure someone can chime in and explain it in more technically correct terms. I reset mine about every 60 days.

 

Got 260K out of my original APP sensor before I had to replace it.
.
.

 

 

 

 

You might just have too much slack in your throttle cable. Best bet would be to check it and tighten if necessary.

 

I read all the comments and thought I'd chime in since I've learned a lot about this issue since my car went into limp mode a few mts ago..

1st of all just bc your car goes into limp mode doesn't mean you need an APP sensor, you def need to get the codes which can be done free at any auto parts store. If you're unable to get to a store (or if you'd just rather have the peace of mind knowing you can get the codes on your own should your maintenance required light come on) you can buy an obd2 scanner online for less than $20 which allows you to read trouble codes and delete them yourself (something the dealership costs around $175 to do).
Once you see the code(s) you'll know where the issue is which can be a number of things..from a loose or corroded wire, faulty sensor (accelerator position, throttle position & mass air flow, to name a few)..it could also need a throttle body, throttle actuator controller, or ECM/PCM. So don't just assume it's the APP sensor.
Hope this helps someone!

 

Hello I have a 2010 TL that I am having similar issues as well and have just posted something about it but at 2 different parts stores the code they came up with was a P2101 which was a TAC sensor code I believe but yet I'm having more of the similar issues as the users with the APP issues. Would these cause all the different error messages to come up and even possibly cut the power steering for a few seconds or so?? I would like for it to be the APP issue as some of these users than something more extensive and expensive.

 

pretty much any issue with the "drive by wire" system will cause the car to go into limp mode. drive by wire, or electronic throttle control is a system that's been used in vehicles since the early 2000s where the transmission is controlled by various sensors that use info from the position of your gas pedal etc and turn it into electronic signals that your cars ECM/PCM (computer or brain of your car) uses to tell the throttle plate how far to open. if something isn't working correctly like if the computer isn't receiving the voltage signals from a sensor or your throttle plate is stuck.. anything that causes this system to not run perfectly smooth then the car will send itself into this reduced power mode. it's basically a safety feature to prevent the computer from sending your car flying forward or something as if you slammed the gas pedal to the floor. there are set limits to the voltages the computer need to receive and if any of that data is outside its limits (or there is no data received at all) then limp mode is activated.

hopefully i worded that in a way that makes sense.

anyway i just had to rewrite this comment because i went to my files to copy the manufacturer service manual info for diagnosing your particular DTC and when i came back everything I'd written was gone! I'm going to go ahead and post this then I'll come back and post the instructions. i only have the manual for the 1st Gen TSX but it might still be relevant to your model year bc i don't see them changing stuff too awfully much.

if in the future someone else has this issue with a different DTC I'll be happy to post the instructions on diagnosing those DTCs as well, just ask.

 

to do these steps yourself you'll need an obd2 scanner so you can get the freeze frame data and clear the DTC but it's def worth buying one and doing this yourself rather than paying a ton at the shop, at least i personally think so. obd2 scanners can be bought for cheap and give you very valuable info!

 

on the passenger side behind the engine near the firewall you can remove with a 10mm that takes about 15-20 max.