flyromeo3

So after changing both front lower control arms. I now have my ABS, VSA, and /!\ illuminated on the dash.


Earlier in the week when I read the ABS codes it displayed the following codes

11. Right-Front Wheel Sensor ( open/short to body ground / short to power )
12 Right-Front Wheel Sensor ( electrical noise / intermittent interruption )
61 Low + B FSR Voltage


I went ahead and ordered / received a new abs sensor.
Installed and cleared the codes.
Lights came back on but this time, I only have
ABS code 12 showing up.

Now, I know when I removed the axle off the front right wheel, it may have hit the wheel bearing a few times while pulling it out.

Would that cause damage to the magnetic encoder? Im strongly leaning towards that not being the problem as I do not have any other codes beside 12.

Ohh btw,.. the reason the code initially appeared because I didn't snap the spindle ring tight enough onto the knuckle.
So after I put the axle and wheels back on and backed out of my driveway, I heard this crunching noise.
That noise ended up being the knuckle/spindle ring chomping away at the abs sensor ( the part that sits inside the knuckle).

Maybe by the sensor breaking, it shorted a wire out?

Majofo

Probably the wheel sensor.. the line runs up and around.. see if it's crimped anywhere and make sure the connection is tight and sensor is mounted securely. You might have popped it when removing the LCA. Worst case, you'll be ordering a new one.

flyromeo3

Thanks Majofo, I was hoping you could lend some of your insight with my concern.

I've replaced the wheel sensor and its still illuminating the ABS, VSA and /!\ light.

according to the service manual I needed to check for continuity between the B+ of all sensors. which resulted in no continuity being found.

The wires seem to be really tucked in there. From the VSA /ABS unit, it wraps underneath then runs to the back of the strut mount area then out to where the connecter is for the wheel sensor.

It looks like a bitch to even reach in there.

Since the abs sensor was broken while in the knuckle is it reasonable to believe there's a possibility of there being a short somewhere in the R.F abs sensor wiring vs the encoder being damaged?

flyromeo3

one more question....If I remove the plastic wheel well liner would that expose more of the ABS wiring?

Majofo

No continuity.. is this at the connector end or socket where the connector plugs in? That sounds like your issue.

I usually remove the wheel well lining so I don't scrape up my arm navigating back there. It wouldn't hurt. Buy some extra clips first.

If you replaced the ABS sensor and wheel sensor, pass the continuity checks, and don't see any other issue.. I'm willing to bet that you need the SRS machine to reset the code. Let us know how it goes.

flyromeo3

if continuity is found between the FL, RL, RR abs sensors +b then it states I have a short somewhere in the wire. Which according to my test / multimeter, there was none.

I tested this from the 47P connecter on the VSA module The part that plugs in with the orange lever.

I have an ABS scan tool and im able to reset the ABS , VSA and /!\ dash lights.
No SRS lights on btw. My speed sensor is fine.

flyromeo3

so I finally got around to getting a new wheel bearing pressed into a spare knuckle I have.

Swapped it out yesterday and drove about 2 miles.
The ABS and VSA lights turned off.

They turned off without having to clear the code. However the code was still present in the ECU..so I cleared it afterwards using my scantool.

replacement time was less than 30 minutes. ( or less than 2 beers. )

I also decided to replace my left rear door checker because the door would make this awful squealing noise from time to time.
Guess it was a nice day to work on the car.