Stariondriver75

I have a 2005 Acura TL with 147k. I am the second owner. It's a 6speed manual.

Yesterday I was in normal morning traffic when commuting, all was well. I went to put the car into 2nd gear and it wouldnt allow me to go into the gear. I then go to find out that all of my gears that are "down" won't work including reverse.

I got out to examine the linkage at the trans as I was on the side of the road and all was well. I was hoping to see a linkage cable had came off. Something easy. Unfortunately all was in order. I am praying that this isn't a shift fork issue or internal transmission issue. I ended up just limping home that night with 1st 3rd and 5th.

It's about 18 degrees in Columbus and I don't have a garage at the moment. Has any one else had this issue?

Stariondriver75

I was thinking shift forks. But if the shift forks are bent, wouldnt 1st be out of the equation if reverse wasn't working?

ez12a

i cant really help, but just wondering does it let you shift into those gears with the engine off?

Stariondriver75

I thought the same thing. I tried to shift it into gear with the car off and still it wont let me into those gears :///

makk

Remove your air filter assembly and you will see two shifter cables attached to the tranny. Remove the cotter pins and cables and try shifting the trans using posts of the selector rods. If you can shift the trans through the gears that means the tranny is good.

Stariondriver75

After digging a little more I've found a few people who have had the same issue. But they all had this warrantied at the dealer resulting in a replaced transmission.

If this done end up to be internal, I'm going to do a write up on the repair. I also found out that I can get my gear set shot peened for pretty cheap. Might as well.

It's finally a nice day off work. I'm going to get into it tonight

six6

Make sure nothin is obstructing ur shifter cables like ur intake

komet

Starion,

I won't pretend to know much about manual transmissions, but I do like to read about them and, because I presently own a 6MT TL, I really hope you are able to find a solution to your problem.

Before you drop the transmission, do you think it would be a good idea to check out the shift lever housing? I know it sounds stupid, but I think it's worth a shot considering the amount of time and effort required to drop the tranny. Not to mention, you will need special tools to install certain seals and take apart the input and output shafts. That said, I'm not really sure what could have failed in the selector housing to cause 2, 4, 6, and R to be unselectable, but it seems very convenient that only the "bottom" gears are unselectable.

Also, out of curiosity, have you drained the transmission fluid yet? I would imagine if an internal component failed (such as one of smaller pieces of the selector assembly) that there would be at least some visible amounts of metal in the trans. fluid. I have read that throwing transmission fluid at problems like this a good place to start because its fairly cheap and may alleviate the problem temporarily.

I apologize if any of my "advice" comes off as ignorant or otherwise unhelpful, as I do not know anything about your experience or expertise regarding this stuff). Like I said before, I'm not someone who rebuilds transmissions for a living. However, I do want to help in any way possible.

Here are some links of interest:

Service Manual for TL (tells you everything you need for tools and specs for the MT - post #9): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/2006-tl-searchable-pdf-service-manual-829490/

Dropping the 6MT (InfamousLink's experience with dropping the trans to replace the clutch): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/dropping-6spd-transmission-diy-questions-updated-post-40-a-835916/

Cookies in shifter housing (yeah it's random, but it goes to show you what might be inside your shifter housing): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/short-throw-cookie-monster-880129/#post14311250

Place to buy GM Synchromesh Friction Modified MTF from if you decide to try a trans fluid flush first: http://paceperformance.com/i-7335347...d-1-quart.html

Honda S2000 DIY Tranny Rebuild - Obviously a very different machine, but similar in that it's a DIYer's experience and a manual transmission (albeit, not a transaxle): http://www.s2ki.com/home/2010/12/02/...-transmission/

That's all I've got so far... Good luck Starion, and please keep us posted. Hopefully someone with better experience will comment here.

robocam

Update?

Nicholas222

If any one can help I have similar problem 6speed acura tl 2005 won't drive I put it in all gears and release the clutch and doesn't move could it be fuse or sensor my shifter cable is fine I took the old transmission oil out nothing came but 2 quarts of black oil car turns on but it won't drive my fork looks good need any type of help my brother think it's the clutch fluid could he be right all I have gravity bleed the cylinder slave for the clutch fluid

Jackass

Fuse or Sensor? Come on man...this is a MT...it all mechanical from the engine to the pavement. And holy hell...use punctuation. Such a PITA to read a single long sentence.

Generally two things:
1.) Clutch Issues
2.) Broken Axles

Broken Axles will generally make some noise, but the car won't go anywhere.
- Visual inspection easy
- Does the speedo move at all?
- Do you hear any noises when you put it in gear and release the clutch?

Clutch Issues
- Assuming all gears can be engaged via the shifter
- With the engine on, clutch released (foot off), can you change gears?

Joecop67

He is 18. They don't use punctuation anymore. Correct grammar is verboten. It's all "bruh, yihb, mines, etc"
lol

Nicholas222

Update I put new clutch old clutch was burnt now it just won't engage into gear. I played with it turn car on in 1st gear it stalls out. So I put in 1st gear and I have too hold the clutch all the way down and starts to move but if I let go it will stall out. So I started to drive it like that holding down the clutch in first and shift too 2nd gear it grinds so I give a lil bit of gas boom it pops in to 2nd gear. I let go of clutch shit starts flying taking off like NASA but i come to complete stop and it wont SHIFT into any gear i have too force it but it still wont engage any help or tips is appreciated

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

What clutch kit did you use? I ask because if you used the OEM LuK kit and didn't properly set the self-adjuster mechanism, what you describe is very possible.

Nicholas222

I used brute force and everything aligned with plastic black tool

nfnsquared

perfect....

Nicholas222

What about some help kid I'm trying move anit no lady I do all my work myself I'm just jitterbug trying learn. I put everything together but dissent engage it just grinds the gears and hard u need really force in the top gears. Any help would be appreciated I don't need anybody belittle I'm humble person just asking for favor if u know what's thr solution to my problem.

Nicholas222

And yeah i don't use auto correct and you don't need to be uh genius too understand what I wrote.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Have you bled the clutch? Did you replace the release bearing on the shift fork?

Nicholas222

Shift fork??? The shift for the slave ? Or the one in the car shift fork? My bad idk what you mean.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

The shift fork is what the slave cylinder pushes against. #13 is the fork, #2 is the release bearing.

Nicholas222

Yeah i put the new one in

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Clutch was bled?
Was the clutch disk put on correctly? Easy to put in on backwards.

Nicholas222

Disk put on correct i bled the slave couple of times no air

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

The question still remains; did you use a LuK clutch? If you did, did you correctly set the auto-adjustment mechanism? If you didn't, that may well be your issue.

Nicholas222

No I got a brute force clutch kit from rockauto parts does that have auto adjustment mechanism

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Just looked it up and it looks exactly like a self adjusting pressure plate. Even so, it should still shift normally, clutch disk just wears quicker with it not set.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Interesting; the LuK pressure plate I just got has the adjuster springs fully extended, and by that I mean, the three tabs are centered (or even a bit over center) on the outer notch, or, said another way, extended an easy half inch from the proper install setting. If I was to mount this pressure plate in my car without resetting the tabs, I wouldn't be at all surprised to experience the same symptoms as @Nicholas222.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Quite possible as well.

Nicholas222

Thanks appreciate all the feed back

Nicholas222

I left spring closed

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

You mean fully compressed?

Did you reuse the flywheel?

Nicholas222

Fully compressed and yeah I reused the flywheel it's stock but look in good condition

Nicholas222

I found out that the shift cable is bad and has no tension the cable start coming apart when you shift it inside the car you see the main cable spread apart from engine bay by the shifter mechanism.

is that the reason the car grinds in every gear and won't move