CometVR4

Can someone help? My 3rd time changing out the sensors, I know I make sure the part numbers are correct. 3rd gear is 28610-ray and 4th gear is 28600-ray is it possible it could be the other way around? I saw in another thread a member posted that the numbers were reverse. Reason I'm asking is because I'm getting a noticable shift flare between 3rd and 4th and hard 1-2 shift.

I'm currently running the Type F that I change out every 10,000 miles for over a year now. I'm not blaming the fluid because I feel it's helping more than anything as this problem has been going on for 2 months now and it seems to stay the same. It didnt start until my last pressure switch change. I ordered new sensors shortly afterward and triple checked before I installed them just make sure that wasn't my problem and no change. I think later today I'm going to flip the sensors and see what happens.

Also I'm currently in Texas, would running a Castrol ATF hurt just to get me back to Ohio since I won't be able to order the Type F in time? Or could I use another Type F from Autozone for a temp replacement? Thoughts? Guesses? Opinions?

Thanks

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

dude I think your trying to switch wayyy to many things....by doing this you will only have more stuff to blame....

I say stick with the redline and do the following:

Order new sensors and install them OR if you can identify them correctly make sure they are installed right and LEAVE em as IS....

x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003) OR 28610-RAY-003
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003) OR 28600-RAY-003

Here is the quote:

Here is the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/

CometVR4

I know, I'm just in panic mode since I'm over 1,000 miles away from home.

I checked the level of the fluid with the car off and with it idling and it measured high each time. When the car was idling, the fluid had bubbles on the dip stick.

Jaster

Sonnax solenoid adjustment tool instructions state:

Adjusting solenoid “A” will affect:
• Reverse servo control and reverse engagement
• 1st clutch forward engagement
• 3rd clutch feed and 2-3 upshift
• TCC lockup RPM slip rate in 3rd only

Adjusting solenoid “B” will affect:
• 2nd clutch and 1-2 upshift
• 4th clutch and 3-4 upshift
• TCC slip rate in 4th


You may be having problems with your B solenoid. The filters may be plugged. There are 3 little metal tube filters that can be cleaned when removing the A+B shift solenoids.
I have pictures somewhere on one of these computers. I will look tomorrow.

Here is a link to the Sonnax .pdf file for instructions using their tool.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...88950-T-IN.pdf

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ didnt someone try this at home and mess up big time ??

Jaster

Maybe I should have been more clear in my post above. I am not saying to adjust the solenoids but instead to check the 3 filters that are under the solenoids to make sure there is not any debris in them. The Sonnax instructions were the easiest way to show what the B Solenoid is in control of in the shift functions of the transmission. The filters are metal screens that do not need to be replaced but only cleaned if debris is found in them.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ sorry misunderstood your prev post....

CometVR4

Ok, I'll check into that. They sounds like it can be the problem. But is it affecting just upshift only? I noticed today the car has a different feel downshifting, almost like the it goes into neutral for a split second and catches.

Jaster

If all of this started right after you changed the shift sensors and then you went out and bought new sensors and changed them again with no change in shifting pattern then you may also want to check and make sure there is not an electrical connection problem with the shift sensor pins on the wiring connector, or a broken wire to the connector. All connectors and wires get so baked by the engine heat over time and when you disconnect them and move them around the connectors and attaching wires can break and not be noticed from the outside.

It is acting like one of the sensors is not connected at all if all of this happened right after you changed the sensors and on your first drive you noticed the bad shift patterns. Maybe someone else would know what would happen if you disconnected one at a time and drove around. I know I will not recommend it without knowing.

Jaster

Ok, I found 2 of the pictures I took showing the location of the Linear Solenoid location and the 3 Pipe Filters that are located under the Linear Solenoid Block. You will need to remove the battery for ease of access. These pictures were actually taken off an Accord but it is the same setup.

The 3 pipe filters just slide out easily if you grab each one with needle nose pliers. Just look in each one and see if there is any debris. If there is debris just use carb cleaner or an air-compressor to blow the pipe filter clean. Do not lose the 3 orings that go around the pipe filters. You may want to have a new gasket ready encase the gasket gets damage. I had a new one and 3 new orings but I did not need to use them.

You did look again and make sure you put the 3rd and 4th gear shift pressure sensors in the correct locations right? It is easy to tell without removing a thing. Just turn the drivers side wheel and shine the flashlight up at the top pressure sensor which is for the 4th gear and it should be Beige (tan/brown) color. You can see the color without having to remove the electrical connector.




Linear Solenoid Block location by Jaster2, on Flickr



Linear Solenoid Pipe Filters by Jaster2, on Flickr

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

what kind of "flare" do you mean during the shift? i've recently had my transmission rebuild due to slips and other issues

Fatfrii

what is better? to clean the screens before, after, or during an ATF flush?

Fatfrii

has any1 else even done this before? im trying now i removed the screws but the damn with wont come off!

Jaster

Yes I have removed the soleniod block as those are my pictures. Anytime removing a part for the first time that has a gasket and has been baked on the motor through the years is going to be hard to remove.

.

CometVR4

Just an update:

I drove the car 1,200 miles from San Antonio Texas to Dayton Ohio. During the drive the car would flare badly sometimes between 3rd and 4th and other times it would shift just fine. As I passed through TN I figured the tranny was done because at one point it would hang up between 3rd and 4th and just rev without any forward motion. The shifts were hard and firm...basically the thing shifted like junk.

Once I arrived in Ohio, I changed the fluid to some Castrol Multi Import ATX(Green Bottle) I noticed the 3rd and 4th gear change got better, but wasn't perfect. So I drove the car for a week and did a 2nd fluid change with the Castrol repeated for a 3rd time and the shifts were pefect, you couldn't even tell that I had a problem. I started to question Redline Fluid and wonder if it was really safe for my car. I couldn't figure out what happened since I had such good experience with it for a while.... it was until the shifts started becoming, not so smooth with the Castrol after about 3,000.

So I wanted to give Redline one last chance, I figure I must have did something wrong. I usually do 2qts lightweight and 1 qt normal racing of the redline. My last changed I did 2 qts racing and 1 qt lightweight racing and maybe it was just too thick?

This weekend I re-introduced the Redline back into my car with the a 3X3 change. All I can say is, wow, the car shifts 110% better now and it even feels smoother and quieter than it did with brand new castrol fluid. The shifts also are quicker and smoother which is hard to describe but with the castrol it was smooth but I could feel them but with Redline it's quick and smooth and I don't feel it. Just like it was before when I first switched it over.

So my conclusion is I will run nothing but Redline in my car and won't make it any thicker than 2 lightweight and 1 reg racing because despite the 100 degree temps in Texas the tranny didn't like it.

I'll report back if anything changes but for right now, it's just amazing.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ even Redline flares !!!

you have to have a balance between the FM's....so you will have to do something like 6 racing + 3 lightweight + 3 D4 for have the right FM's and viscosity....here is the link....

http://acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834299

Fatfrii

i cant find the part # for the gasket regarding the filter screens. Anyone know them?

i switched to redline and it ended up messing up my transmission...stick to honda

maybe I messed up because i put straight D4...i dont know what i was thinking when i switched from something that was designed for my tranny. Im laying off the forums for a while

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ care to elaborate on how many drain and refills were done ? how many qts of redline were used ? what was used ? anything else which u did ? symptoms ? what failed ?

Fatfrii

have done 2 drains so far and used redline D4. from the looks D4 is alot thicker than honda. i am going back to honda soon, just ordered the case. I am not ruling out the possibility of an electrical issue. after talking to a transmission builder i leardned alot about our specific tranny and learned that it is very sensitive to the type of ATF and the VERY sensitive to the level...i will be sure to report back.

i had a thread a while back swoosh abut my problem and i member u posted in it. its right here https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...1#post13315350

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ yes....now i remember....

so they said it was the fluid ?

I know Inaccurate has the thread where he said how to get a viscocity level of stock fluid and 65-70% FM fluid so the tranny will shift quick and last long....

I hate to see this happening to your car bro....please keep up updated....lets all learn from it....

Fatfrii

^^not exactly sure whats wrong yet but i will be sure to post