I have a TL TYPE-S hat has only 68,000 miles. I'm the original owner of the car and drove all 68,000 miles. At 66,000 miles I blew a cylinder head, no knowing what I was I drove it to my mechanic. (The car sounded like a lawn mower and had no power).
He replaced he cylinder head and even since then the engine light keeps on coming on. The car idles rough and after bringing it back to him 10 times, I decided to take it to another mechanic that specializes in Acura's. He removed the cylinder head that was replaced by the other mechanic and said the head gasket wasn't the right one and changed a bunch of valves which were no correctly installed. after the original mechanic changed the cylinder head the engine light would come on when the car was cold and afer a few days (sometimes weeks) it would go away. I got the car back from the new mechanic and the first day the car ran great.. The temperature outside dropped to 20F and at the first start it idled rough and the check engine light came on but not code popped up on the navigation system (i.e. message area). Called the second mechanic and he was perplexed, didn't take any of my money yet and said to bring it in. After a few hours of driving the check engine light went away and the car road fantastic. This morning I started the car for the first time since it drove great and the weather was cold again this morning and BAM idling rough and check engine light came on again.. Any one experienced this and if so what have you done to fix this pain in the A$$ issue??
Thanks

 

how did you blow the cylinder head the first time!?
did you over heat the car? or is the car 6MT?

sounds like 1st mechanic tried to fix head but didnt get it right.
sounds like 2nd mechanic fixed 1st mechanics mistakes but also does not have it right.

I blew the heads on my 6MT TL because I performed the money shift. I went from 4th gear to 2nd....and over-revved the motor.
had misfire at idle.
I changed the heads myself and got it running

 

Was getting on parkway and them lost power and loud 'Lawnmower" noise..
I drove about a mile to the first mechanic.. Car had a ticking noise for about a year before blowing the cylinder head.
Was told that the spark plug shot out and caused a hole in cylinder head.

 

ahh! that should have a very simple fix! heli-coil the stripped aluminium and replace plug!

now, you're chasing mechanics screw up's!!
it could be the new heads weren't TOP DEAD CENTER, or the timing belt off teeth

your best bet is to run OBDII scanner to tell you what you already know...misfires...
then, you need to do a leak down and a compression test to tell you if cylinders are still holding compression

 

hole to large for heli--coil..
Second mechanic took apart the cylinder head and replaced timing belt.
It only rough idles when the weather is cold outside, otherwise it runs great..
It's frustrating cause it ran great regardless of the weather before I blew the head.

 

Welcome to the forums. I moved this thread from the New Members Introduction Forum due to its technical nature since the people there w1ill be able to give you more assistance.

 

Have you had the exact code read that is popping up?

That may allow someone to point you in a proper direction. I'm not an extremely experienced mechanic, but if you are having a misfire issue, it can be several things.

My first guesses would be either bad plugs/injectors. The code should be able to tell you what cylinder is misfiring.

Second thought could be that your timing is off. As Justin mentioned. However, a certified mechanic SHOULD have gotten the timing correct when replacing your belt.

Was the head replaced? You may be better off just replacing it. At this point you may be trying to put a Band-Aid on a severed ligament.

Again, hobbyist car lover here and just my thoughts based on your description.

 

Unfortunately sometimes there are codes and sometime there aren't. Code as ridiculous as all cylinders misfire. The head was replaced. It only seems to happen in cold weather. Yesterday it was in the high 40F and the engine light went off and the car was running great. Tonight the temperature is below 32F and the engine light came on and the car idles rough. Spark plugs, engine coils, timing belt, water pump all have been changed.

 

Taking the car back to the mechanic today as the check engine light came on yet again this morning.

 

You said head, you mean just one head or both?
If just one head, it could be as simple as needing a valve adjustment on the other.

Second component is temp.. cold means higher air density.
Rough idle / misfires in cold temps could be related to sensors (MAP, IAT, Wide Band O2S), which could throw off your fuel mix.

fouled injectors, bad spark plugs.. these things would be present all the time. Mark these last to check.
Anyways, tell us what codes it's throwing.. that'll be the most help.

 

The code is all cylinders are misfiring..

 

I'm willing to bet it needs a valve adjustment. Also do PCV and top end clean while you're at it, specifically the EGR side.

 

The first mechanic replace the front cylinder head. The second mechanic (Acura specialist) took off the cylinder head that was replaced by the first mechanic and redid job. Said valves were never changed so replaced them and also replaced the gasket as it was the incorrect one.. He's at a lost as it still is running rough and the engine light is still on.. He did say he didn't look at the back cylinder head and will start that investigation now. Not sure what the ^@!^$#^~$_+~ to think anymore..

 

If the rear was never touched.. could be valve spec.
But if it really is only rearing it's ugly head in the cold, could be from intake to EGR / PCV.
Also a stretch, bad winter gas. Where are you located?

 

maybe even a vacuum leak present only in really cold temps but that's a further stretch

 

running the engine while it's misfiring is not advised, but if you can get in a controlled environment.. see if the misfires go away from cold to warmed up.

 

I'm in New York.. Long Island area..

 

after a day or two driving the misfire goes away and the car runs great. Then it comes back on the minute the temp outside and car is cold.

 

going to have to go with this guy but there is one other possibility a vacuum leak just large enough the cause misfire when cold... how are your intake seals/gaskets?

 

Mechanic just told me the fuel injectors is the only thing he can see to change.. Everything else seems to be spot on.. Anyone have an idea on what that's going to run me?

 

Sounds like he's throwing parts at it.. not good.
Did he do valve adjustment on rear?

 

Look up Petrolwerks in lindenhurst, ask for Moe hes the owner. Tell him steve Martindale sent you